Hi,

i have a problem with my ft-857 (Non D Version):

The radio powers up normal, but all buttons, except of the power button, aren't working.
Encoders do work fine, i can change frequency, background light works, ...

What i've tried so far (with no luck):
- Tried a different front panel
- Tried a different cable between panel and body
- Checked the 8V power rail on the connector (was ok)

I checked the schematics and noticed, that the communication between front panel and main unit is some kind of bus and since encoder and VFO control etc. are working fine, i think that this bus also works. The power button is a single pin on the connector and doesn't communicate over that bus.

My guess is, that there is some kind of corrupted data in memory.
Since the button don't work, i can't do any resets.
Is it possible to reset the memory over CAT or a Jumper on the mainboard?

Has anyone else had this problem?
Any other ideas?

Thank you in advance for your input!

73 de Andi, OE3ANC

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 02:44 PM, Matt wrote:

The main unit of the radio should be able to provide 10 watts. Check
this by building a cable with the proper connectors to attach to your
watt meter. Cables with the inter-radio connectors can be salvaged
from defunct radios.

RD07MVS1 is avalible from, but not currently listed at RF parts for
$6.85 each. This is a drop in replacment for the earlier generation
2SK2975 part as well.

Remove the main unit from the radio. Clean off the heat sink compound
from the copper heat spreader.

The heat spreader is soldered to the transistors, the only way to
remove the transistors is to first remove the heat spreader. Do this
with a small butane torch.

Over a non flamable object such as a ceramic tile, Tilt the board to
about a 45 degree angle so the spreader is on the bottom side. With
the torch heat the heat spreader until the solder melts and it falls
off the board. Spread the heat around the copper slug by moving the
flame around the surface of it.

Once the slug falls off the transistors can be removed. The best way
to accomplish this is with by using a hot air re-work station. Other
methods can damage the board. Note the orientation of the transistors
before removing them. Blow hot air around the transistor and pull it
up with tweezers once the solder melts.

Wick away the excess solder and set down the replacement transistors.
Add solder to one edge first to position each transitor correctly.
Finish soldering the leads. If nessacary use the hot air to 'float'
the transistor on solder and position it with the tweezers.

From the underside of the board apply a small dab of solder to the
dies of the transistors through the holes in the PCB. Place the heat
spreader back in position and apply the torch while holding the main
unit level. Heat evenly until the spreader 'sinks' into place.

Apply replacement thermal compound to the heat spreader and replace
the main unit into the radio.

Set bias current. Tune the radio to 1.8MHz CW, make sure nothing is
inserted in the Key jack. Remove the jumper closest to the
transistors, J1004 and flip S1001 to the opposite poosistion. Place a
current meter across the J1004 posts.

Turn VR1001 and VR1002 fully counter clockwise. Key the radio with the
mic and adjust VR1001 for 100mA reading. Adjust VR1002 for 200mA
reading. Replace J1004 and flip S1001.

Verify at least 10W out of the board. Perform power output alignment
as outlined in the service manual.

?On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 02:44 PM, Matt wrote:

The main unit of the radio should be able to provide 10 watts. Check
this by building a cable with the proper connectors to attach to your
watt meter. Cables with the inter-radio connectors can be salvaged
from defunct radios.

RD07MVS1 is avalible from, but not currently listed at RF parts for
$6.85 each. This is a drop in replacment for the earlier generation
2SK2975 part as well.

Remove the main unit from the radio. Clean off the heat sink compound
from the copper heat spreader.

The heat spreader is soldered to the transistors, the only way to
remove the transistors is to first remove the heat spreader. Do this
with a small butane torch.

Over a non flamable object such as a ceramic tile, Tilt the board to
about a 45 degree angle so the spreader is on the bottom side. With
the torch heat the heat spreader until the solder melts and it falls
off the board. Spread the heat around the copper slug by moving the
flame around the surface of it.

Once the slug falls off the transistors can be removed. The best way
to accomplish this is with by using a hot air re-work station. Other
methods can damage the board. Note the orientation of the transistors
before removing them. Blow hot air around the transistor and pull it
up with tweezers once the solder melts.

Wick away the excess solder and set down the replacement transistors.
Add solder to one edge first to position each transitor correctly.
Finish soldering the leads. If nessacary use the hot air to 'float'
the transistor on solder and position it with the tweezers.

From the underside of the board apply a small dab of solder to the
dies of the transistors through the holes in the PCB. Place the heat
spreader back in position and apply the torch while holding the main
unit level. Heat evenly until the spreader 'sinks' into place.

Apply replacement thermal compound to the heat spreader and replace
the main unit into the radio.

Set bias current. Tune the radio to 1.8MHz CW, make sure nothing is
inserted in the Key jack. Remove the jumper closest to the
transistors, J1004 and flip S1001 to the opposite poosistion. Place a
current meter across the J1004 posts.

Turn VR1001 and VR1002 fully counter clockwise. Key the radio with the
mic and adjust VR1001 for 100mA reading. Adjust VR1002 for 200mA
reading. Replace J1004 and flip S1001.

Verify at least 10W out of the board. Perform power output alignment
as outlined in the service manual.

?What type of thermal compound is used to hold the sensor to the top of the final? It appears to be more of a putty consistency than a paste could someone please provide some additional input please

With my SolarEdge inverter I have ferrites on the solar panels and the optimizers where they join loop to the inverter.I also have an EMI filter in the AC line to the main breaker box.
All of that to try to keep the interference FROM the solar system to a minimum.
The post from Ron is correct in that the RF from the transmit antenna is getting into the inverter control system.
I suggest that you try adding filters to the control inputs and the power inputs and outputs.
You did not say what power levels you are working with, but I found a 60 amp EMI filter for the AC output that installed in a 6" X 6" X 4' trough from the inverter to the main box. There is room there to add some more ferrite chokes if necessary.
I suspect that if the solar panels feed the inverter their wiring is the most likely source of the problem. When I installed mine I kept the wiring for the + and - twisted together to make a differential power line like an RF transmission line to limit radiation which would also limit pickup of RF interference much better than a loop from panel to panel as is often done. Looping a single power wire from panel or optimizer to the next and then back to the inverter creates a very nice loop antenna operating in common mode.
More information is necessary to decide what would be the best course of action.
JD
KE4MD

You have an RF "leak" INTO the inverter, NOT out of the radio.? Wind cords into/out of the inverter through toroids to try to keep the RF out of the inverter.? Also make sure your feed line is kept away from the inverter, as a VSWR at the antenna will cause current to flow on the feed line shield, causing unwanted (or at least undirected) radiation.

Ron, K2RJ?

I have tried by inserting torroidal beads at all suspected places and still no success.
Unni
VU2TE

On 40 mts. when I go to TX all my house hold inverter get shifted to inverter mode suspecting some RF leak on 40 mts. Kindly suggest where I should start to look for a leak. Is it RF band pass filter or any thing else. This happens only on 40 mts.
Request suggestions
with regards
Unni
VU2TE

I have had good luck with the MFJ 939 series of tuners, rated for 200 watts so FT-8 and other digital modes should not bother it too much with higher power percentages.
I know that it is not a "cool" solution, but it works and I have not seen as many issues with it and it can also be set up for other manufacturers with selection of jumpers and cables.
There are "issues" with the serial connections and plugs etc, but this would apply with any other unit as well.
I have used mine as a "local" tuner sitting under the radio and as a "remote" with an extension cable to the unit protected by a Tupperware container at the antenna. ( this was when used with Icom, however.
Good luck with your selection.
You can download a manual Here:
https://mfjenterprises.com/products/mfj-939y

I will have to look into the coupler option. Especially where I've been doing mostly digital versus voice so I appreciate your suggestion as I hadn't even considered it. Even if I'm in a vehicle, it could be an option.?

I have been borrowing the verticals so those have been easy to manipulate and get into the right range.

I did buy an off center fed dipole from Tim (N9SAB -). It's very compact and easy to carry and with some paracord and a good branch, it should be simple to get up in the air here in the Pacific Northwest. He recommends a tuner but I haven't yet had enough time to put it up in the air and hook it up to my NanoVNA. His antenna is discussed on a number of online videos.

I'm hoping to do that this weekend so I can get a good feeling for where it is resonant. Of course, I'm still stuck in small areas of the 6/10m bands.?

-David

On Sat, Oct 7, 2023 at 07:57 PM, David Smith wrote:

I recently became the owner of a FT-857. I've been using a vertical whip and tuning it each time to get it resonant on the respective operating band. I am looking at some other multi-band wires that would be best to use with a tuner.?

I am hoping to use this radio while portable in the future. What suggestions do folks have on current tuners that are approximately the same footprint/width of the radio for packing purposes??

David
W6RKT

I realize that you asked about an antenna tuner but you may want to consider using an antenna coupler. The difference between a Tuner and a Coupler is that Tuners are colocated with the transmitter or transceiver and a coupler is located at the feed point of the antenna.

I own an SGC SG-235 . I am NOT suggesting it for your use as it is too large and too heavy for hiking in to locations you will want to activate. It has done a very nice job for me tuning a 90 foot long folded dipole from 160 down to six meters. I chose that coupler because it's power handling capability is 500 watts. I anticipated needing that power handling capability for using an amplifier with the FT-857 to send a full 100 watts of power so that both the FT-857 and the amplifier would be running at 1/3 of their maximum power outputs when handling digital signals at 100% duty cycle. SGC has other automatic antenna couplers that have a much smaller size and weight that will do what you need to do. One of the uses that the SGC couplers do a great job at is for tuning the coaxial feed to the feed point of a vertical antenna. I have used several non resonant verticals from 12 to 55 feet in height above mounting point.

I also own an Icom AH-4 antenna coupler that I use with my FT-857 by connecting the coupler control wiring through an after market control converter. I would also think that the Icom AH-4 is too large and heavy for your purposes. SGC does have a smaller and lighter antenna coupler which might suite you very well. The SG-237 Smartuner is 9L x 7W x 1.85H inches and 2 pounds. I would think that might be within the size and weight that one could hike in and or up to an operating location without ending up tempted to abandon it. They run about $350 used.

Tom Horne

On Sat, Oct 7, 2023 at 09:07 PM, Easwaran Unni Tharakkal VU2TE wrote:

In my experience ZS6BKW is one candidate. In my experience it performs well. Easy to erect and portable also

VU2TE

Unni

On Sun, Oct 8, 2023 at 5:27?AM David Smith <flashover52@...> wrote:

I recently became the owner of a FT-857. I've been using a vertical whip and tuning it each time to get it resonant on the respective operating band. I am looking at some other multi-band wires that would be best to use with a tuner.?

I am hoping to use this radio while portable in the future. What suggestions do folks have on current tuners that are approximately the same footprint/width of the radio for packing purposes??

David
W6RKT

You didn't mention that the ZS6BKW is an antenna along the lines of a G5RV off center fed dipole.

Tom Horne

?

开云体育

开云体育

I like the LDG Z11ProII for a portable setup.

It is about the same width as the body of the FT-857 so it stacks nicely. The advantages it has for a backpack setup is it can be powered by 6 to 16 volts DC at 300 mA Max. 20 uA standby current. This means the radio can power it directly with the correct cable. Or you can install a 8 AA pack inside the case.

It is also pretty light at 1.5lb which is another advantage for portable operation.

Main down side is it only good for 30W digital modes but the 857 really shouldn't be doing anymore than that either especially portable.

Leonard K. Pennock
AD7AS

Those who walk bravely through life, unafraid of loss or failure,
find that they very rarely lose or fail.

An EFHW does not need a tuner if operated on the multiples of the lowest band. For example, when operating portable I use a 63ft 40m EFHW which includes the 49:1 transformer and it is resonant on 40, 20, 15, and 10m with no tuner and under 1:5 SWR. That said, the FT857 is pretty aggressive about folding power back with modest SWR, which always gave me trouble when I used hamsticks mobile.

=Vic=

As for modes/power, I'm really not sure. Still only a technician (studying for general exam) but have been doing some FT8. I'll probably be doing some Winlink (Vara) in the future. Looking to expand with POTA/SOTA in the near future.?

While I have looked at the ATAS-120, it seems to really need some counterpoise if it's not used on a vehicle. I've been using a MPAS and JPC-12 vertical along with a homebrew 10m dipole (speaker wire to a BNC connection), properly tuned. I'd like to try an EFHW or off center dipole but will need a tuner.?

I guess I would like to see something that could handle the full 100w if needed versus a QRP rig.

开云体育

Hi David...take a look ath the ATU-130 on amazon....I bought one to go portable for POTA but haven't got there yet because of other problems, not related to this unit....should work since the 857 is only rated 100 w....

Ron

WA8KQF