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Gents -- forgive my not logging in properly to the yahoo site -- I'm traveling and don't have the required data with me -- I'm getting ready to cut thread on my Dalton (!) for the first time -- while it should really be sent to the guru and rebuilt, it's still much more of a lathe than I am a machinist (more a metal-munching moon mouse). In any event, there is a very nice brass plaque on the gear cover listing all the thread-per-inch gears necessary -- sadly, I have no idea which position is which -- if any of you would help a newbie out, I'd be most appreciative. The positions identified are "Stud -- Comp -- Screw" I've included a picuter of the gear end of the lathe -- thanks a million for your help! John Rosberg Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.

Hi gang, Anybody know the holding capacity of a 3" chuck? I found a new Bison 3 jaw with both sets of jaws for $99, and I don't think it would be all that much smaller holding capacity-wise than a 4", but I'm not sure. Dave

Hi guys, I was just cleaning up some of the lot 5 parts and I got to the lead screw bushing. I think that's what this is called. It's the part that screws into the saddle that the lead screw goes thru and the dial ring would ride up against.The part that gets replaced at the Turk Works and gets a little thrust bearing hidden in. There are two pins thru the part of it where the 0 line is. They are at right angles to each other. They're kind of hard to see in the pictures I posted in with my lathe files, so I lightened them a little and drew little arrows to them. Anyone know what they're there for? They need just a little more stock for one more of these on Friday afternoon and all they had was a piece with two holes drilled in it so they put some pins in there? Practice job for one of the apprentice's? Like, Ok kid, here's what you do if you accidentally drill a hole in the wrong place on a part you need? Ok, I'm gonna post the pic's real quick and turn off my computer. Damn thunderstorm again and this one sounds like a doozy! They just won't leave us alone lately. Dave

Hey Denny, I haven't gotten any e-mails from you in awhile. Must be lost out in the ether somewhere.Thank Yahoo. Are you digging out the high explosives for later today? Dave

Okay fellas, I've received the draft manuscript of Hubert K. Dalton's personal history from a most generous contributor, Gay Taylor, out in California. She did considerable research into old Hubert when she was a part of the Peck family (the family of Hubert's sister/nephew). Now that her life has moved on in different directions, she has chosen to share her research with those of us who have an interest in Dalton, the man, as well as his machines and inventions. It's now scanned into a 104 page (4 mb) PDF file and posted on the web at http://www.oldarn.com/dalton/history There are parts that are a little challenging to read, and the photos aren't great, but the original paper version is exactly the same. I tried to scan it in at a higher than normal resolution so nothing got lost. Seems to look as good as the paper version. I know a 4 mb file will be a hassle for those of us using dialup connections. If you need it on a CD, drop me a line. Hope you find Gay's manuscript on Hubert's life history as fascinating as I do. - Andy

Good Morning Gents I've another new guy question – Before I get to it, thanks to all of you who've been kind and patient with my previous inquiries – while I'm sure they are elementary to you folks, they were a bit daunting to me – I appreciate your kindness and patience. O to the question – I've gotten to the point that the 3-jaw Union Chuck that came with the lathe is now the weakest link in the accuracy chain (previous weakest link wsa me ;-} ). The scroll and backsides of the jaws are very worn (no surprise – it doesn't look much younger than the lathe), and it's only in the accurate ballpark at one diameter setting (darned near maxed out). I've decided to spring for a decent 4-jaw chuck – I read, with relief, though the spindle threads on these old nails IS oddball (I was scratching my head wondering why I couldn't seem to find a commercially available chuck that would mount up easily). Is there a reason I couldn't use the back plate off the Union chuck to mount the new 4-jaw? Also, among the rusty greasy bits that come with the latch is what appears to be a spare back plate. It mounts on the spindle very nicely, but the flange (is that the right term?) is thicker that the one on the Union chuck, and is not drilled for any mounting hardware. Could THIS be used to mount the new chuck? Lastly, I've seen references on the board here to getting a back plate and doing the mounting to the chuck on your own lathe. While this makes sense (getting maximum accuracy), I have no idea how to go about doing this . . .. any pointers? Thanks, in advance, for any assistance you may be able to render! John Rosberg

Good Morning Gents I've another new guy question – Before I get to it, thanks to all of you who've been kind and patient with my previous inquiries – while I'm sure they are elementary to you folks, they were a bit daunting to me – I appreciate your kindness and patience. O to the question – I've gotten to the point that the 3-jaw Union Chuck that came with the lathe is now the weakest link in the accuracy chain (previous weakest link wsa me ;-} ). The scroll and backsides of the jaws are very worn (no surprise – it doesn't look much younger than the lathe), and it's only in the accurate ballpark at one diameter setting (darned near maxed out). I've decided to spring for a decent 4-jaw chuck – I read, with relief, though the spindle threads on these old nails IS oddball (I was scratching my head wondering why I couldn't seem to find a commercially available chuck that would mount up easily). Is there a reason I couldn't use the back plate off the Union chuck to mount the new 4-jaw? Also, among the rusty greasy bits that come with the latch is what appears to be a spare back plate. It mounts on the spindle very nicely, but the flange (is that the right term?) is thicker that the one on the Union chuck, and is not drilled for any mounting hardware. Could THIS be used to mount the new chuck? Lastly, I've seen references on the board here to getting a back plate and doing the mounting to the chuck on your own lathe. While this makes sense (getting maximum accuracy), I have no idea how to go about doing this . . .. any pointers? Thanks, in advance, for any assistance you may be able to render! John Rosberg

All right, who made him an offer he couldn't refuse DENNIS????????? Was that you http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&item=150017013831&sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1 Dalton 7" metalwrkng lathe B4, lot 5 benchtop good cond Item number: 150017013831 Ron Peeler Moodus Ct

Hi All Just a note to let you all know that I have some Boston change gears that are correct for a Dalton lathe. I would like to sell the set first but if no takers I will brake them up and sell individuals. The set consist of the following gears. 1 each 32 - 36 - 40 - 48 - 52 - 56 - 60 - 64 - 72 plus a 20 tooth for use as a slower feed gear. The gears are mostly Boston but I think there is one or two Browning gears in the lot. There are some new ones and the rest are used but all aver very serviceable gears. You would need two each 25 tooth one 40 and a 96 tooth to have a complete set. The second 25 tooth gears is only used on a 12 pitch thread and that is about the limit of what you can cut on a Dalton. If you have a 25 and a 96 with this set you can cut every thread from 10 to 72 plus a few odd ones but missing the 12. I would like $75 for the lot and I will cover postage. Dennis Turk

Hi All Well Scott's 1914 lathe sold yesterday. I have emailed the new owner and welcomed him to the Dalton gang. I was surprised that the lathe sold for that price. This is the highest price paid for a Dalton yet. I have not heard back from the person that used buy it now to purchase the lathe but I hope we do. There have been a number of Daltons sold on eBay over the years and most has not joined the group. I have emailed each one but with no response back. After September I am hoping to find the time to finish up the thread dial project. I know it has been a year in the works but just remember good things some time come slowly. Turk

Hi guys, The website attracted quite a find yesterday. John Callin of Castaic, CA, contacted me to say he has a Dalton Combination machine, marked Lot 1 Number 103 D. He also says that it's marked with the word "Sound Beach", as opposed to the South Beach in Gay's Dalton history. This is the first combination machine we've heard of, outside of the one Dennis spotted at an auction in WA a while back. John will hopefully be joining the group soon with a few questions regarding getting his machine working. Hopefully he'll have some pictures for us too. - Andy

Hi all Seams we have a Dalton for sale on the English ebay site. Check it out as it has some rather odd features. I have emaild the seller so we will see if we hear from him. Note the place were the lead screw is mounted and it makes you wonder what kind of half nuts they are using. The spindle bearings are rather odd also and the cone pulley has been modifide for Vee Belt. Take a look as it looks rather nice in its blue paint. Turk 170018891275

The pictures of this machine are now on the oldarn web site at: http://oldarn.com/dalton/known Enjoy. - Andy Walton Hills, OH

Thanks Jon I have forwarded your message to the group. ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Jon Hathcock" <jrclockmaker@...> To: ronaldpeeler@... Subject: dalton lathe parts Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 04:28:48 +0000 Ronald, I am a friend of Dennis Turk in Origon. He use to be the "DaltonGuy" and I heard you really like these neat old lathes too. I have A Dalton lot 4 and am getting another one in a few weeks. I am thinking about parting out or selling outrightmy old dalton lathe when the new one comes. I have taken apart, cleaned and repainted the lathe. I made an overhead drive unit incorperating a period correct motor. The lathe works beautifully and has virtually no play in the headstock. The back gear works. It has an insert in the headstock that has been machined to fit C-3 collets. I made a collet nose piece to protect the threads when using the collets. There is an aftermarket 3-jaw and a 4-jaw that might be origional ( I will know when the new one gets here). I might have some duplicate parts for sale too, including an extra 2 sets of change gears. I know you have a Yahoo group out there in the Internet land and thought one of the members might need some parts. If you want to forward my e-mail it will be Okay. Until Later, Jon Hathcock

I have tried to post threee times. I belong to 2 other Yahoo groups and have had no problems posting. Let's see if it works this time. John Callin, combo machine guy

That's my machine on the oldarn site. I bought it from a friends estate a coupla years ago. I'm still trying to get it set up and running right. The chain drive setup on the back is geared too low. At the lowest speed, in backgear, you need a calender to count the RPMs. Also the bearing cap at the bevel gear on the vertical shaft is missing. I guess I can make one if I cannot find one. I haven't run a lathe since HS, so I am teaching myself with a bunch o' books from Lindsay. I want to upgrade the toolpost to a quick change with the inserts, rather than the old HSS cutters. Still, I'm having fun with it, making chips. I'll be asking questions, I'm sure. I'm open to any and all questions, suggestions, hate mail, etc. John

Hi all John Brody emailed me with questions about a Dalton he has. He sent me some email pictures and I put them up on my Flicker photo site. If you go to this address you will see Johns lathe. His lathe looks to be in great shape with some interesting modifications done to it. I did not check with John so see if he got the change gears when he got the lathe but it does have a Atlas steady rest that has been addapted to the lathe. A dial ring had been installed on the compound slide and a larger more usfull one also has been installed on the cross feed screw. Take a look at this address. http://www.flickr.com/photos/45888076@N00/?saved=1 Dennis Turk

Hi all I am posting this for a fellow down in CA. You can see the photos of this lathe on my Flicker photo site. http://www.flickr.com/photos/45888076@N00/?saved=1 Hello. I am a guitar and ukulele builder in San Diego and have an old Dalton metal lathe for sale. It is a Dalton c1920-23, Lot B4 #3092 with original counter shaft. It is in remarkable condition with no obvious deficits. It comes with original tail stock, and an Atlas 6" steady reast modified to fit the Dalton. $ 600.00 usd + shipping Also for sale is the lot of machinist tools and lathe accessories that were also inherited with the lathe: 4", 3 jaw self centering chuck 6", 4 jaw independent chuck 6" face plate ring revolving cone tail center revolving bullnose cone tail center headstock chuck - Jacobs 59B, 3/16-3/4 capacity, 1-1/2 x 8 PI spindle tailstock chuck - Jacobs 34 w/ morse taper tailstock chuck - Albrecht ultra precision 3 jaw with morse taper. 3/64-33/64 tailstock chuck - RJ3-16L with morse taper tool holder (2 ea) knurling tool holder and knurler 12" Union Tool hermaphrodite caliper 6" Starrett hermaphrodite caliper Adjustable tap wrench (4 ea) tail center 2 lbs assorted steel Mo-Max tool bits Starrett No. 226, 2-3" Outside micrometer Starrett No. 2, 0-2" Outside micrometer Starrett No. 436, 0-1" Outside micrometer Lufkin No. 1630, 0-0.5" Outside micrometer Starrett No. 124AZ solid rod inside micrometer set, 2-8" Starrett center guage Starrett No. 6 Screw pitch guage Starrett No. 77-B6 "Fay" Spring type 6" divider Starrett "Fay" Spring type 4" inside caliper Starrett No. 79-B4 yankee spring type 4" outside caliper Round collett set Boring head and boring bars $800 usd + shipping for all or call for pricing on individual items. If you have any questions, please call or email me. I will entertain any reasonable offers John Brody 760-720-7155 home 760-505-1396 cell

Hi All Just an update on Johns lathe. It seams that the lathe has had custom spindle bearings and a custom or modified spindle from another lathe (probably Logan) installed in the head stock. The spindle thread is the standard 1 1/2 - 8 that will accept most tooling. The flat belt cone pulley has been replaced with a three step Vee belt drive. The back gears are still functional but some modifications to them have been made. It looks like the Vee belt pulley was shorter so everything has been moved closer to the front spindle bearing and there are spacers on the rear of the spindle and also the back gear. All looks very professionally done. As does the custom half nut lever. You can also see it has nice big easy to read dial rings on the cross slide and also the compound. Just some observations on my part that I felt should be added to the lathe description. I have some high resolution photos of Johns lathe if anyone would like to look at things a little closer. Take care and keep those Daltons turning out works of art. Dennis

Hi Guys, There is photo of a nice looking Dalton on the Practical Machinist website. I like those spindle bearing oilers. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/topic/11/2650.html jim