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So is there a general feeling as to what we should be feeding the
spindle? I'm currently using Mobil Velocite No. 10, but I'm of the
feeling I need something a bit heavier as is runs through the babbitt
pretty quickly when I'm running... Naturally the bearings are worn
after 70+ years, but I'd prefer not to make it worse... If that's the
right thing, I'll have to pick up a couple drip oilers so I'm not
constantly having to feed the bearings when I should be making
chips...

Hmmm... Well if I had a Lot 6, I'd probably be in better shape... But
in reality, I've got a Lot 3, so I've got the 1-1/4" spindle. I
imagine I'll stumble across what I need eventually, or I'll break down
and take a blank back plate to a machinist...

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Ok... Sorry about that panic moment there... I'm still getting a
handle on this whole lathe concept... So I dressed the mounting
plate, and remounted my 4 jaw scroll chuck (now there's a pretty
hateful item. Must find an independent) beat it around a bit with it
chucked on to a 1/2" hardened drill bit, and got down to 0.0015 TIR.
That'll do just fine for me. Can't tell about repeatability as I
didn't really want to pull it after I got it there as I'm in the
midst of boring out a Jacobs 20N drill chuck. (just the bad mounting
taper, not the chuck itself)

So the next question is, does anyone sell mounting or drive plate
with the thread in them already for our quirky antiques? I know I
could buy one, and bore/thread it myself, but that's a little beyond
my ability currently. (threading that is, I can bore ok) I've only
got the one plate my 4 jaw is on, and I want to mount a 3 jaw I have,
plus I want a drive plate for if I get my spindle taper cleaned up
and use centers.

Oh, and if anyone else was bidding on that 3 jaw chuck that just sold
on Ebay, it isn't quite as it seemed... It's threaded, but they
threaded the chuck itself, and didn't do a great job of it... Should
be fine when I get a back plate... You live, you learn...

Thanks for the reality check Dennis!

-Tim

I wonder why there is so few. It seems like a very rigid machine where so many others of that era were rather spindly(sic.). The machine market is a very strange place. Malcolm Bryant

From: "Dennis Turk" <dennis.turk2@...>
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: <daltonlathes@...>
Subject: Re: [daltonlathes] Re: Someone tell me I'm not compleatly screwed...
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 21:52:50 -0700

Hi Malcolm

Say you need to know that there are only six Lot 6 lathes known of with yours. The Lot 6 tail stock is a lot bigger than a lot 2 3 4 and 5. Even the Lot 8 9 inch would be to tall if we ever find one.

Now I do have a lot of Lot 4 parts that can be used on a Lot 2 3 and 5 so you guys let me know what you need.

Turk
----- Original Message -----
From: malcolm Bryant
To: daltonlathes@...
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 5:32 PM
Subject: RE: [daltonlathes] Re: Someone tell me I'm not compleatly screwed...


Let me know if you wind up parting it out since I need a new tailstock. No
big deal but it would be nice. Mine is a B6.( lot 6,#161) Malcolm Bryant.

>From: "toolslinger1973" <toolslinger@...>
>Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
>To: daltonlathes@...
>Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Someone tell me I'm not compleatly
screwed...
>Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 19:01:52 -0000
>
>Thanks for the thoughts Jim. I confirmed the .004" wobble out on the
>nose of the spindle with a dial indicator pressing against .002
>feeler stock so it wouldn't drop in a thread... Then I tried the DTI
>on the cone, and that seems ok, right around .001 out. I wouldn't
>really expect the cone to be perfect, and it wasn't opposite the
>wobble on the nose. So I'd guess that someone either hoisted on the
>chuck, or something fell on the chuck at some point...
>I guess some of you guys are gonna end up with parts, and chucks from
>mine... Sadly I don't think I'm up to doing a lot of truing of face
>plates and chuck mounts at this point. I'd probably have an aneurysm
>trying to figure it all out... I really need to learn to use a lathe
>before I have to deal with repairing one...
>
>Now if I could convince myself to pull the trigger on a nice Harrison
>I stumbled across the other day, I'd be set... Oh to have more
>money...
>Thanks!
>Tim
>
>--- In daltonlathes@..., "Jim Bonner" <bogyjim@...> wrote:
> >
> > I was hoping somone with more experience than me would try to give
>you
> > an answer. But I can give my .02 cents. I would think it would
>pretty
> > difficult to know what is going on without a DTI. (dial test
>indicator)
> > It does sound like the spindle is bent. But where? I'm not really
> > familiar with the lot 3 and 4 lathe spindles but I don't think they
>are
> > as hard as the B-6. I wonder if someone hoisted the lathe from the
>cone
> > pulley, would that bend the spindle? It seems to me that it may if
>the
> > lathe was bolted to a bench. If you indicate off the cone while
> > rotating the spindle do you get any reading? If so, is it opposite
>the
> > spindle nose reading? Maybe you could remove the cone pulley and
> > indicate off the spindle between the bearings. If it is bent
>between
> > the journals, maybe it could be straightened.
> >
> > I don't think you will want to put too much money in your lathe.
>They
> > are a pain to use even when they run correctly.... (compared to a
>South
> > Bend with a QC gear box)
> >
> > There is another option.. If you just want to use the chuck, not
> > collets. You could remove the back plate from the chuck, true it
>up on
> > the spindle, then remount the chuck. That might get you by.
> >
> > good luck, jim
> >
>
>

__________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.

_________________________________________________________________
Interest Rates near 39yr lows! $430,000 Mortgage for $1,399/mo - Calculate new payment

--- In daltonlathes@..., "oddball_racing"
<oddball_racing@...> wrote:

Wondering how/what the process is all about.
Thanks Mike. Will post the fruits of my labor soon.
My name is CHESTER LONG,I am new to this site and I restore old hit &

miss gas engines and other stuff. I have used electrolysis for rust
removal for several years and it works great! It is not a process to be
used for cleaning dirt,paint or grease. You need a different method for
that. Just be prepaired to spend time wire brushing the derusted parts
after you have first scrubbed them with water. If you do a web search
for electrolysis,you will be supprised at the number of sites that
explain the processs in as much detail as you care to read about. You
may also want to check out removing rust with molasses or RUSTBEETER.

开云体育

Let me know if you wind up parting it out since I need a new tailstock. No big deal but it would be nice. Mine is a B6.( lot 6,#161) Malcolm Bryant.

From: "toolslinger1973" <toolslinger@...>
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: daltonlathes@...
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Someone tell me I'm not compleatly screwed...
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 19:01:52 -0000

Thanks for the thoughts Jim. I confirmed the .004" wobble out on the
nose of the spindle with a dial indicator pressing against .002
feeler stock so it wouldn't drop in a thread... Then I tried the DTI
on the cone, and that seems ok, right around .001 out. I wouldn't
really expect the cone to be perfect, and it wasn't opposite the
wobble on the nose. So I'd guess that someone either hoisted on the
chuck, or something fell on the chuck at some point...
I guess some of you guys are gonna end up with parts, and chucks from
mine... Sadly I don't think I'm up to doing a lot of truing of face
plates and chuck mounts at this point. I'd probably have an aneurysm
trying to figure it all out... I really need to learn to use a lathe
before I have to deal with repairing one...

Now if I could convince myself to pull the trigger on a nice Harrison
I stumbled across the other day, I'd be set... Oh to have more
money...
Thanks!
Tim

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Jim Bonner" <bogyjim@...> wrote:

I was hoping somone with more experience than me would try to give

you

an answer. But I can give my .02 cents. I would think it would

pretty

difficult to know what is going on without a DTI. (dial test

indicator)

It does sound like the spindle is bent. But where? I'm not really
familiar with the lot 3 and 4 lathe spindles but I don't think they

are

as hard as the B-6. I wonder if someone hoisted the lathe from the

cone

pulley, would that bend the spindle? It seems to me that it may if

the

lathe was bolted to a bench. If you indicate off the cone while
rotating the spindle do you get any reading? If so, is it opposite

the

spindle nose reading? Maybe you could remove the cone pulley and
indicate off the spindle between the bearings. If it is bent

between

the journals, maybe it could be straightened.

I don't think you will want to put too much money in your lathe.

They

are a pain to use even when they run correctly.... (compared to a

South

Bend with a QC gear box)

There is another option.. If you just want to use the chuck, not
collets. You could remove the back plate from the chuck, true it

up on

the spindle, then remount the chuck. That might get you by.

good luck, jim

_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.

I had the same problem. That's why I got mine for free. Anyway, start by facing it off. As with all of this advice just remove the absolute minimum. Then turn down the tips of the threads. Surprisingly, the strength of the treads depends very little on the apex. Besides, We're only talking four thou. The treads themselves are a strange pitch on Daltons but I'm sure you can find some arrangement of gears to get really close. If you use collets you will have to try to bore a new taper which I tried but have put off until I get a more ridged boring bar.
Understand that some of this may be difficult since the spindle is hard but I found that a new carbide cutter worked quite well. Lots of oil and don't rush.
When the adapter plate is remounted it will have to be faced again but that is inevitable for any adapter plate. You will be surprised how square it already is since facing the spindle will get it awfully close.
The only downside to doing this is the adapter plate is now dedicated to your machine only. I've never known of one that is, but everyone feels that this needs to be pointed out.
Personally, I over sized the bolt holes and simply bonk the chuck around until it's centered. With old fashioned patience it can get within four thousands repeatably which is darned good to me. I've read of machinists who claim zero tolerance but don't ask them to check it more than once. At least not an old machine, I can't speak for million dollar lathes built recently.
You have nothing to loose. I'm sure you'll be surprised how well it goes. Malcolm Bryant.

From: "toolslinger1973" <toolslinger@...>
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: daltonlathes@...
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Someone tell me I'm not compleatly screwed...
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 16:21:59 -0000

Better checkup... Set the back of a tool near the theads, and played
with feeler gauges. Looks like it wobbles by around .004".
Clearly that sucks.
So the question is, what do I do? Getting a new spindle machined
would seem to be prohibitive. I can probably buy something usable
for less, and sell off whatever people need from this unit to help
someone else to offset the cost of something else...
I've got no real sentimental value to the machine, or I would get a
new spindle made...
Thoughts?

_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage refinance is hot 1) Rates near 30-yr lows 2) Good credit get intro-rate 4.625%*

开云体育

Thanks for the thoughts Jim. I confirmed the .004" wobble out on the
nose of the spindle with a dial indicator pressing against .002
feeler stock so it wouldn't drop in a thread... Then I tried the DTI
on the cone, and that seems ok, right around .001 out. I wouldn't
really expect the cone to be perfect, and it wasn't opposite the
wobble on the nose. So I'd guess that someone either hoisted on the
chuck, or something fell on the chuck at some point...
I guess some of you guys are gonna end up with parts, and chucks from
mine... Sadly I don't think I'm up to doing a lot of truing of face
plates and chuck mounts at this point. I'd probably have an aneurysm
trying to figure it all out... I really need to learn to use a lathe
before I have to deal with repairing one...

Now if I could convince myself to pull the trigger on a nice Harrison
I stumbled across the other day, I'd be set... Oh to have more
money...
Thanks!
Tim

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Jim Bonner" <bogyjim@...> wrote:

I was hoping somone with more experience than me would try to give

you

an answer. But I can give my .02 cents. I would think it would

pretty

difficult to know what is going on without a DTI. (dial test

indicator)

It does sound like the spindle is bent. But where? I'm not really
familiar with the lot 3 and 4 lathe spindles but I don't think they

are

as hard as the B-6. I wonder if someone hoisted the lathe from the

cone

pulley, would that bend the spindle? It seems to me that it may if

the

lathe was bolted to a bench. If you indicate off the cone while
rotating the spindle do you get any reading? If so, is it opposite

the

spindle nose reading? Maybe you could remove the cone pulley and
indicate off the spindle between the bearings. If it is bent

between

the journals, maybe it could be straightened.

I don't think you will want to put too much money in your lathe.

They

are a pain to use even when they run correctly.... (compared to a

South

Bend with a QC gear box)

There is another option.. If you just want to use the chuck, not
collets. You could remove the back plate from the chuck, true it

up on

the spindle, then remount the chuck. That might get you by.

good luck, jim

Why not just use a four jaw chuck. Lots of people use
them rather than three jaws because of the greater
accuracy. Gene
--- toolslinger1973 <toolslinger@...>
wrote:

I was hoping somone with more experience than me would try to give you
an answer. But I can give my .02 cents. I would think it would pretty
difficult to know what is going on without a DTI. (dial test indicator)
It does sound like the spindle is bent. But where? I'm not really
familiar with the lot 3 and 4 lathe spindles but I don't think they are
as hard as the B-6. I wonder if someone hoisted the lathe from the cone
pulley, would that bend the spindle? It seems to me that it may if the
lathe was bolted to a bench. If you indicate off the cone while
rotating the spindle do you get any reading? If so, is it opposite the
spindle nose reading? Maybe you could remove the cone pulley and
indicate off the spindle between the bearings. If it is bent between
the journals, maybe it could be straightened.

I don't think you will want to put too much money in your lathe. They
are a pain to use even when they run correctly.... (compared to a South
Bend with a QC gear box)

There is another option.. If you just want to use the chuck, not
collets. You could remove the back plate from the chuck, true it up on
the spindle, then remount the chuck. That might get you by.

good luck, jim

Better checkup... Set the back of a tool near the theads, and played
with feeler gauges. Looks like it wobbles by around .004".
Clearly that sucks.
So the question is, what do I do? Getting a new spindle machined
would seem to be prohibitive. I can probably buy something usable
for less, and sell off whatever people need from this unit to help
someone else to offset the cost of something else...
I've got no real sentimental value to the machine, or I would get a
new spindle made...
Thoughts?

So it looks like the spindle nose is bent on my Lot 3... I had
initially though that perhaps it was just the 4 jaw scroll chuck that
came with it... Sadly that just ain't the case. A dial indicator
running on the flat, tight against the bearing side reads fine, Out
near the chuck side I can't get a clean spot to check as I've got
threads on the outside, and some rust inside the taper... What I did
was to put a tool in the post, loose so it couldn't possibly cut, and
set it just inside the taper. Rotating the spindle by hand, I could
see a gap change between the tool and the spindle. Somebody tell me
I'm missing something obvious... I don't want to end up parting this
thing out and then having to find another small lathe to start in
on... (though going to something a little more common might be
easier...)

I look at all these restored Daltons with the nice paint jobs and I feel guilty. Its something I've been meaning to do, but I have my lathe in production and it all covered in oil and turnings. Likewise the paint I have for my South Bend has been sitting on the shelf for about 5 years.

Maybe when I retire in 11 years or so, I will find the time.

Ron
B-4 owner

----Original Message Follows----
From: "oddball_racing" <oddball_racing@...>
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: daltonlathes@...
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Old lathe
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 10:47:34 -0000

Welcome to the site. I too was caught off gaurd with the extent that
these machines are restored. As a result my lot 4 is almost finished
looking just like theirs. Again welcome to the group. MIKE

Welcome to the site. I too was caught off gaurd with the extent that
these machines are restored. As a result my lot 4 is almost finished
looking just like theirs. Again welcome to the group. MIKE

I was very surprised to see a group of Dalton owners. Why do I like
this lathe so much? I thought I spent too much effort on mine but the
ones in the photos are amazing. I have a few small spare parts for
anyone, mostly bolts and a few other things. I'm looking forward to
discussing my experiences and yours. Malcolm Bryant.

It does work wonders. I just did the change gears for my Dalton with
it, as my first project... You need not go big on this, I have mine
setup running in a 6 gallon pail.
The explanation on the OWWM site is pretty good, keep in mind though
that if you do this you really want a dumb charger. The example
there shows you how to get around a smart charger by using a
battery... If you can avoid the battery that's a good thing as that's
about the only part of the system that can cause damage.
(overcharging leads to no water in the battery, and no water leads to
fire)

Cheers!
Tim - Faithful OWWM Member

--- In daltonlathes@..., "gm54210" <bischel@...> wrote:

Mike,

A few links that should explain the process better than I could:

20Page.htm#Electrolysis

I have not tried it yet, but the process seems to work great.

Wes