You must be down south again. 3 times the rainfall in the valley, but I think we're getting 6 months worth right now!
Dan
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Tray as to the cross slide handle nut. It looks like yours has been damaged. The nut is round and there are two notches where a special tool was used to tighten or loosen the nut. Think of a wide blade screw driver with the center of the blade notched out leaving a finger at each side. This is exactly what I made years ago and still use it to this day. Not sure but kind of looks like they used a hammer to peen things tight. Maybe a bastard to get the nut loose.?
As to the pin in the bottom of the Vee grove I don’t have a clue as to why it’s there. ?Maybe someone’s attempt to keep chips out or hold oil in.? Dennis
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On Dec 3, 2023, at 8:23?AM, Dennis Turk <dennisturk448@...> wrote:
? Tray I’m not at home right now so only have my phone to communicate with so I’m limited in what I can do.?
Yes Dalton cast in casting pattern identifications numbers.? On Dec 2, 2023, at 7:57?PM, Trey Tull <trey.tull@...> wrote:
?Good evening everyone, While cleaning parts today, I noticed that most of the castings had letters/numbers cast into them (e.g. 015, 016, B2A, B14, TL6, TL7).? Is this something that you have seen with your machines?? Also the stand that holds the drive pulley was rigid mounted on top of the work bench but if you orient it so you can ready the 015, then it seems that it should be mounted under the lathe somehow.? Thoughts?? Also, if this hanger is mounted to a bench, how do you take slack off the belt to change pullies?? Seems like it should be mounted on something that can pivot up and down.? Similar to how my south bend works. <IMG_7797.jpg> <IMG_7796.jpg> I also noticed that this part has Dalton stamped into it.? I haven't found this on others parts so far.? Possibly b/c it was patented? <IMG_7795.jpg> <IMG_7794.jpg> Dennis, I see that your green TL has a lower hole in the change gear cover but mine doesn't.? Any ideas on that? <IMG_7793.jpg> <IMG_7792.jpg> This picture is of the reverse gear lever.? Just to show the B14 cast into it. <IMG_7808.jpg> The cross slide has me puzzled in a few areas.? First..... any helpful tips for removing this nut? <IMG_7798.jpg> Second, there was a pin that has been inserted on the bearing surface of the cross slide.? You can see it on the right side of the V in the picture below.? It was drilled in from the back side and driven in.? Any ideas why that there? <IMG_7801.jpg> As far as refinishing the lathe.....paint or powder coat?? I'm sort of leaning towards powder coating this time around but I've never refinished a machine that way.? Thanks Trey
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Hi Bart. Hope all is well up your way.?
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On Dec 3, 2023, at 8:23?AM, Dennis Turk <dennisturk448@...> wrote:
? Tray I’m not at home right now so only have my phone to communicate with so I’m limited in what I can do.?
Yes Dalton cast in casting pattern identifications numbers.? On Dec 2, 2023, at 7:57?PM, Trey Tull <trey.tull@...> wrote:
?Good evening everyone, While cleaning parts today, I noticed that most of the castings had letters/numbers cast into them (e.g. 015, 016, B2A, B14, TL6, TL7).? Is this something that you have seen with your machines?? Also the stand that holds the drive pulley was rigid mounted on top of the work bench but if you orient it so you can ready the 015, then it seems that it should be mounted under the lathe somehow.? Thoughts?? Also, if this hanger is mounted to a bench, how do you take slack off the belt to change pullies?? Seems like it should be mounted on something that can pivot up and down.? Similar to how my south bend works. <IMG_7797.jpg> <IMG_7796.jpg> I also noticed that this part has Dalton stamped into it.? I haven't found this on others parts so far.? Possibly b/c it was patented? <IMG_7795.jpg> <IMG_7794.jpg> Dennis, I see that your green TL has a lower hole in the change gear cover but mine doesn't.? Any ideas on that? <IMG_7793.jpg> <IMG_7792.jpg> This picture is of the reverse gear lever.? Just to show the B14 cast into it. <IMG_7808.jpg> The cross slide has me puzzled in a few areas.? First..... any helpful tips for removing this nut? <IMG_7798.jpg> Second, there was a pin that has been inserted on the bearing surface of the cross slide.? You can see it on the right side of the V in the picture below.? It was drilled in from the back side and driven in.? Any ideas why that there? <IMG_7801.jpg> As far as refinishing the lathe.....paint or powder coat?? I'm sort of leaning towards powder coating this time around but I've never refinished a machine that way.? Thanks Trey
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Tray I’m not at home right now so only have my phone to communicate with so I’m limited in what I can do.?
Yes Dalton cast in casting pattern identifications numbers.?
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On Dec 2, 2023, at 7:57?PM, Trey Tull <trey.tull@...> wrote:
?Good evening everyone, While cleaning parts today, I noticed that most of the castings had letters/numbers cast into them (e.g. 015, 016, B2A, B14, TL6, TL7).? Is this something that you have seen with your machines?? Also the stand that holds the drive pulley was rigid mounted on top of the work bench but if you orient it so you can ready the 015, then it seems that it should be mounted under the lathe somehow.? Thoughts?? Also, if this hanger is mounted to a bench, how do you take slack off the belt to change pullies?? Seems like it should be mounted on something that can pivot up and down.? Similar to how my south bend works. <IMG_7797.jpg> <IMG_7796.jpg> I also noticed that this part has Dalton stamped into it.? I haven't found this on others parts so far.? Possibly b/c it was patented? <IMG_7795.jpg> <IMG_7794.jpg> Dennis, I see that your green TL has a lower hole in the change gear cover but mine doesn't.? Any ideas on that? <IMG_7793.jpg> <IMG_7792.jpg> This picture is of the reverse gear lever.? Just to show the B14 cast into it. <IMG_7808.jpg> The cross slide has me puzzled in a few areas.? First..... any helpful tips for removing this nut? <IMG_7798.jpg> Second, there was a pin that has been inserted on the bearing surface of the cross slide.? You can see it on the right side of the V in the picture below.? It was drilled in from the back side and driven in.? Any ideas why that there? <IMG_7801.jpg> As far as refinishing the lathe.....paint or powder coat?? I'm sort of leaning towards powder coating this time around but I've never refinished a machine that way.? Thanks Trey
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Hey Dennis. Long time no talk to. Hope all is well with you and yours. -Bart
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Re: Tray I’m not at home right now and only have my phone to communicate with so I’m limited.
The numbers and letters you see are casting pattern identification numbers.?
The item you call a hanger is one of two standards that held the ceiling mounted countershaft. As to moving the belt from one pulley to the next it was done by walking the belt off one pulley to the next and was done by hand.?
As to powder coat my black TL is finished in 60% gloss black powder coat. The first one I did in ? coat is my 1917 Lot 6. ?If you have never mask for powder coat it takes a ?Special Mylar tape. Will say it’s a bastard to work with. This tape is very ridged and does not stretch so it takes a. Lot of small pieces to go around odd shapes. Also if you need to use any filler only JB weld can be used under powder coat as it’s good to 500 degrees.?
As to the end door we have seen similar things on other models besides your TL. Too bad I’m not home as I have pictures that would help you.? Dennis?
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On Dec 2, 2023, at 7:57?PM, Trey Tull <trey.tull@...> wrote:
?Good evening everyone, While cleaning parts today, I noticed that most of the castings had letters/numbers cast into them (e.g. 015, 016, B2A, B14, TL6, TL7).? Is this something that you have seen with your machines?? Also the stand that holds the drive pulley was rigid mounted on top of the work bench but if you orient it so you can ready the 015, then it seems that it should be mounted under the lathe somehow.? Thoughts?? Also, if this hanger is mounted to a bench, how do you take slack off the belt to change pullies?? Seems like it should be mounted on something that can pivot up and down.? Similar to how my south bend works. <IMG_7797.jpg> <IMG_7796.jpg> I also noticed that this part has Dalton stamped into it.? I haven't found this on others parts so far.? Possibly b/c it was patented? <IMG_7795.jpg> <IMG_7794.jpg> Dennis, I see that your green TL has a lower hole in the change gear cover but mine doesn't.? Any ideas on that? <IMG_7793.jpg> <IMG_7792.jpg> This picture is of the reverse gear lever.? Just to show the B14 cast into it. <IMG_7808.jpg> The cross slide has me puzzled in a few areas.? First..... any helpful tips for removing this nut? <IMG_7798.jpg> Second, there was a pin that has been inserted on the bearing surface of the cross slide.? You can see it on the right side of the V in the picture below.? It was drilled in from the back side and driven in.? Any ideas why that there? <IMG_7801.jpg> As far as refinishing the lathe.....paint or powder coat?? I'm sort of leaning towards powder coating this time around but I've never refinished a machine that way.? Thanks Trey
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On Dec 2, 2023, at 7:57?PM, Trey Tull <trey.tull@...> wrote:
?Good evening everyone, While cleaning parts today, I noticed that most of the castings had letters/numbers cast into them (e.g. 015, 016, B2A, B14, TL6, TL7).? Is this something that you have seen with your machines?? Also the stand that holds the drive pulley was rigid mounted on top of the work bench but if you orient it so you can ready the 015, then it seems that it should be mounted under the lathe somehow.? Thoughts?? Also, if this hanger is mounted to a bench, how do you take slack off the belt to change pullies?? Seems like it should be mounted on something that can pivot up and down.? Similar to how my south bend works. <IMG_7797.jpg> <IMG_7796.jpg> I also noticed that this part has Dalton stamped into it.? I haven't found this on others parts so far.? Possibly b/c it was patented? <IMG_7795.jpg> <IMG_7794.jpg> Dennis, I see that your green TL has a lower hole in the change gear cover but mine doesn't.? Any ideas on that? <IMG_7793.jpg> <IMG_7792.jpg> This picture is of the reverse gear lever.? Just to show the B14 cast into it. <IMG_7808.jpg> The cross slide has me puzzled in a few areas.? First..... any helpful tips for removing this nut? <IMG_7798.jpg> Second, there was a pin that has been inserted on the bearing surface of the cross slide.? You can see it on the right side of the V in the picture below.? It was drilled in from the back side and driven in.? Any ideas why that there? <IMG_7801.jpg> As far as refinishing the lathe.....paint or powder coat?? I'm sort of leaning towards powder coating this time around but I've never refinished a machine that way.? Thanks Trey
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Good evening everyone, While cleaning parts today, I noticed that most of the castings had letters/numbers cast into them (e.g. 015, 016, B2A, B14, TL6, TL7).? Is this something that you have seen with your machines?? Also the stand that holds the drive pulley was rigid mounted on top of the work bench but if you orient it so you can ready the 015, then it seems that it should be mounted under the lathe somehow.? Thoughts?? Also, if this hanger is mounted to a bench, how do you take slack off the belt to change pullies?? Seems like it should be mounted on something that can pivot up and down.? Similar to how my south bend works.   I also noticed that this part has Dalton stamped into it.? I haven't found this on others parts so far.? Possibly b/c it was patented?   Dennis, I see that your green TL has a lower hole in the change gear cover but mine doesn't.? Any ideas on that?   This picture is of the reverse gear lever.? Just to show the B14 cast into it.  The cross slide has me puzzled in a few areas.? First..... any helpful tips for removing this nut?  Second, there was a pin that has been inserted on the bearing surface of the cross slide.? You can see it on the right side of the V in the picture below.? It was drilled in from the back side and driven in.? Any ideas why that there?  As far as refinishing the lathe.....paint or powder coat?? I'm sort of leaning towards powder coating this time around but I've never refinished a machine that way.? Thanks Trey
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Thanks Dennis,
Your assessment is, as always, invaluable. ?My guess is the headstock and tailstock have been refinished with modern enamel paint, as the PO sent me a pic or two of condition ?when he received the lathe a few years ago. ?It was disassembled, and the pieces showed some rusting and old age patina. Now they look new, and carefully restored.
Good to know what the countershaft is…
I will likely buy an OXA tool post for it, once my wonky back allows me to work on the machine. ?
I did find new drip oilers for the headstock in a box of spare parts, so may switch out the existing oil cups when I have time to work on it.
Thanks again!
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On Nov 28, 2023, at 9:27 AM, Dennis Turk <dennisturk448@...> wrote:
? OK first the countershaft.? The counter shaft is from an Atlas built for Sears 12 inch lathe.? It's actually mounted backwards from how it was mounted on the Atlas lathe.? On the Atlas lathe the motor sat behind the countershaft not in front.? This was because the countershaft casting was bolted to the back of the lathe bed.? With serial number 7090 I believe this makes this lathe the last one built that we know of. I have serial number 7014 and there is one more that I believe is 703X something.? For a long time my 7014 was the newest one built.? This makes your lathe built in mid to late 1929 or just before the factory?closed. This model lathe was produced from 1915 till the end of production in 1929.? For the most part it was produced unchanged in all these years.? ?I have serial number 127 and it is identical to my serial number 7014. The only difference between my two Lot 6 lathes is the shop made dial rings that are on my late model lathe.? Your lathe looks to be in original japanning finish and for its age very nice.? I also see a shop made replacement handle for the back gear also nicely made.? Someone put a lot of thought into how the countershaft setup works.? Also a nice setup as I used an Australian?Hercuse?countershaft on number 7014. The only other alteration?from the normal setup is the oil flip top oil cups. Picture shows what was originally installed at the factory.? I have drip feed oilers on my 7014 as its setup to run up to 1000 rpm whereas the factory setup the lathe would have only turned 680 rpm.? I have also included pictures of my two Lot 6 lathes as they look today.? Serial number 7014 was used for a few years at my Oregon coast home shop where I built several model steam engines using this lathe. Serial number 127 has only been used for display. My serial number 7014 was originally sold from a Seattle Washington machine dealer and 127 was sold directly from the factory as it was removed from a Carriage?house a few miles from the factory on Long Island NY.? The estate where 127 was removed from was less than a mile from Hubert Dalton's estate at the time so we have always figured the two old fellows knew each other. I have also restored a number of the 1920's built?
SB lathes, you are correct there are several details that Dalton did better than SB did.? For one the spindle is hardened and is also larger with larger bearings of bronze.? Also the bed was made from a much better grade of cast iron and as such Dalton lathes have survived with little bed wear.? One place where SB did it better was in the apron gearbox as the tool room version had power cross feed and only the Dalton 9 had power cross feed. Also SB used the Flather patent quick change gearbox as Dalton never made the move to a quick change system.? There is one thing to remember, that Dalton lathes cost much more than SB lathes comparable equipped. If you have more questions by all means ask them and we as a group will try and answer them.? Dennis On Mon, Nov 27, 2023 at 10:47?PM Dennis Turk via <dennisturk448= [email protected]> wrote: ? Hello ALL,
Just acquired this nicely restored lot 6, Sn 7090, 36” bed, ?from Bill Fit, in Seattle. Bill acquired the lathe from a previous private owner in Oregon.? Not much is known about the lathe, except that it is a west coast machine and has a brass badge with inscription “Harringtons 092” rivet to the headstock gear cover.? I assume this badge might by an early 20th machine shop inventory tag of some sort. Loose brass badging that comes with the machine shows a patent date of 1922. So either thismlathe dates from the 1920’s, or the badging came off another machine at some point.? I assumed early lot 6’s were built prior to 1920’s.?
Also, The back gear motor mount appears to have been reworked, maybe installed in lieu of the original Dalton motor mount.? But, Iam not very familiar with the subtleties of the Dalton 6.? The angled dovetail on the cross slide is something I haven’t seen before.
The lot 6 does seem to be a more robust lathe than the SB 9” I have, from the same mid 1920’s time frame.
glenn B.?
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<Front Vew of 66 Max 603.jpg> <NY Dalton 4.JPG> <1929 Dalton 8 by 36 inch lathe.JPG>
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Hi Trey OK these are the only two photos I have on file for my two TL lathes.? As to your question, TL stamped on the end of the bed right now I don't remember would have?to go look.? By the way Trey the serial number?on the green TL is 327 so is a very early one whereas the black one is a very late model.? Dennis
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On Tue, Nov 28, 2023 at 12:29?PM Trey Tull < trey.tull@...> wrote: Hey Dennis,
You mentioned that the brass plates have a name you haven’t seen before.? Do you have any close up pictures of the plates on your TL lathes??
Does the serial number have TL stamped in front of it on your machines?? Similar to the other Lot machines.
Thank you, trey
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Hey Dennis,
You mentioned that the brass plates have a name you haven’t seen before. ?Do you have any close up pictures of the plates on your TL lathes??
Does the serial number have TL stamped in front of it on your machines? ?Similar to the other Lot machines.
Thank you, trey
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OK first the countershaft.? The counter shaft is from an Atlas built for Sears 12 inch lathe.? It's actually mounted backwards from how it was mounted on the Atlas lathe.? On the Atlas lathe the motor sat behind the countershaft not in front.? This was because the countershaft casting was bolted to the back of the lathe bed.? With serial number 7090 I believe this makes this lathe the last one built that we know of. I have serial number 7014 and there is one more that I believe is 703X something.? For a long time my 7014 was the newest one built.? This makes your lathe built in mid to late 1929 or just before the factory?closed. This model lathe was produced from 1915 till the end of production in 1929.? For the most part it was produced unchanged in all these years.? ?I have serial number 127 and it is identical to my serial number 7014. The only difference between my two Lot 6 lathes is the shop made dial rings that are on my late model lathe.? Your lathe looks to be in original japanning finish and for its age very nice.? I also see a shop made replacement handle for the back gear also nicely made.? Someone put a lot of thought into how the countershaft setup works.? Also a nice setup as I used an Australian?Hercuse?countershaft on number 7014. The only other alteration?from the normal setup is the oil flip top oil cups. Picture shows what was originally installed at the factory.? I have drip feed oilers on my 7014 as its setup to run up to 1000 rpm whereas the factory setup the lathe would have only turned 680 rpm.? I have also included pictures of my two Lot 6 lathes as they look today.? Serial number 7014 was used for a few years at my Oregon coast home shop where I built several model steam engines using this lathe. Serial number 127 has only been used for display. My serial number 7014 was originally sold from a Seattle Washington machine dealer and 127 was sold directly from the factory as it was removed from a Carriage?house a few miles from the factory on Long Island NY.? The estate where 127 was removed from was less than a mile from Hubert Dalton's estate at the time so we have always figured the two old fellows knew each other. I have also restored a number of the 1920's built?
SB lathes, you are correct there are several details that Dalton did better than SB did.? For one the spindle is hardened and is also larger with larger bearings of bronze.? Also the bed was made from a much better grade of cast iron and as such Dalton lathes have survived with little bed wear.? One place where SB did it better was in the apron gearbox as the tool room version had power cross feed and only the Dalton 9 had power cross feed. Also SB used the Flather patent quick change gearbox as Dalton never made the move to a quick change system.? There is one thing to remember, that Dalton lathes cost much more than SB lathes comparable equipped. If you have more questions by all means ask them and we as a group will try and answer them.? Dennis
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On Mon, Nov 27, 2023 at 10:47?PM Dennis Turk via <dennisturk448= [email protected]> wrote: ? Hello ALL,
Just acquired this nicely restored lot 6, Sn 7090, 36” bed, ?from Bill Fit, in Seattle. Bill acquired the lathe from a previous private owner in Oregon.? Not much is known about the lathe, except that it is a west coast machine and has a brass badge with inscription “Harringtons 092” rivet to the headstock gear cover.? I assume this badge might by an early 20th machine shop inventory tag of some sort. Loose brass badging that comes with the machine shows a patent date of 1922. So either thismlathe dates from the 1920’s, or the badging came off another machine at some point.? I assumed early lot 6’s were built prior to 1920’s.?
Also, The back gear motor mount appears to have been reworked, maybe installed in lieu of the original Dalton motor mount.? But, Iam not very familiar with the subtleties of the Dalton 6.? The angled dovetail on the cross slide is something I haven’t seen before.
The lot 6 does seem to be a more robust lathe than the SB 9” I have, from the same mid 1920’s time frame.
glenn B.?
<IMG_4112.jpeg> <IMG_4119.jpeg> <IMG_4118.jpeg> <IMG_4115.jpeg> <IMG_4116.jpeg> <IMG_4122.jpeg>
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On Nov 27, 2023, at 4:52?PM, glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...> wrote:
? Hello ALL,
Just acquired this nicely restored lot 6, Sn 7090, 36” bed, ?from Bill Fit, in Seattle. Bill acquired the lathe from a previous private owner in Oregon. ?Not much is known about the lathe, except that it is a west coast machine and has a brass badge with inscription “Harringtons 092” rivet to the headstock gear cover. ?I assume this badge might by an early 20th machine shop inventory tag of some sort. Loose brass badging that comes with the machine shows a patent date of 1922. So either thismlathe dates from the 1920’s, or the badging came off another machine at some point. ?I assumed early lot 6’s were built prior to 1920’s.?
Also, The back gear motor mount appears to have been reworked, maybe installed in lieu of the original Dalton motor mount. ?But, Iam not very familiar with the subtleties of the Dalton 6. ?The angled dovetail on the cross slide is something I haven’t seen before.
The lot 6 does seem to be a more robust lathe than the SB 9” I have, from the same mid 1920’s time frame.
glenn B.?
<IMG_4112.jpeg> <IMG_4119.jpeg> <IMG_4118.jpeg> <IMG_4115.jpeg> <IMG_4116.jpeg> <IMG_4122.jpeg>
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Hello ALL,
Just acquired this nicely restored lot 6, Sn 7090, 36” bed, ?from Bill Fit, in Seattle. Bill acquired the lathe from a previous private owner in Oregon. ?Not much is known about the lathe, except that it is a west coast machine and has a brass badge with inscription “Harringtons 092” rivet to the headstock gear cover. ?I assume this badge might by an early 20th machine shop inventory tag of some sort. Loose brass badging that comes with the machine shows a patent date of 1922. So either thismlathe dates from the 1920’s, or the badging came off another machine at some point. ?I assumed early lot 6’s were built prior to 1920’s.?
Also, The back gear motor mount appears to have been reworked, maybe installed in lieu of the original Dalton motor mount. ?But, Iam not very familiar with the subtleties of the Dalton 6. ?The angled dovetail on the cross slide is something I haven’t seen before.
The lot 6 does seem to be a more robust lathe than the SB 9” I have, from the same mid 1920’s time frame.
glenn B.?

    
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Hi Trey Here is what the collet closer of the hand wheel type looks like.? The thead? of a 3C collet is a bit odd.? If I remember correctly it's .630 - 26.? I may need to confirm this?as I am not sure I'm correct.? What happens when your 82 things seem to get lost to time. Any questions you have let me know will see if I can help.? ?OK first off the best way to strip the japanning off your lathe is with what used to be called Mr. Muscle oven cleaner it's what I have used on every machine I have restored. (over 60 of them) it's now called barbecue?and oven cleaner.? If you do a eBay search for Mr. Muscle this new named product will show up and it is the same product they just changed the name.? It's only available from janitorial supply?places or online.? It's too dangerous?to be sold in stores any longer like it used to be.? What happened was a young lady accidently sprayed her eyes and it blinded her and the following lawsuit forced the Mfg to take it off the store shelves.? This was in the late 1990's.? My brother and I actually stripped a white enamel paint job off a 68 Mustang fastback in the mid 90's using about?a six can case of Mr muscle oven cleaner. It's great for grease grime and enamel paint as well as japanning but will not take off acrylic?enamel. Dennis.
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On Mon, Nov 27, 2023 at 12:06?PM Trey Tull < trey.tull@...> wrote: [Edited Message Follows]
Hey Dennis.? Thank you for all of the great information!!? I believe I have read most of everything you have ever written….you sir are a wealth of knowledge.? I actually have a picture of your black TL as a goal for mine.? That is a beautiful machine!!? I went back to the factory today at lunch with the hopes of finding the collet closer but no luck.? I’ll keep searching.
Dennis, if you would like to share your Dalton lathe literature, I’ll be happy to send some money your way.
Thank you.
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Hey Dennis. ?Thank you for all of the great information!! ?I believe I have read most of everything you have ever written….you sir are a wealth of knowledge. ?I actually have a picture of your black TL as a goal for mine. ?That is a beautiful machine!! ?I went back to the factory today at lunch with the hopes of finding the collet closer but no luck. ?I’ll keep searching.
Dennis, if you would like to share your Dalton lathe literature, I’ll be happy to send some money your way.
Thank you.
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Hi Trey
As to serial numbers each?Dalton model or lot number has its own set of sequential?serial numbers.? We found this to be true when identical serial numbers showed up in different?models.? As to? your TL, don't we wish it could talk the stories this old girl could tell?? The milling attachment looks to be mounted on a Lot 4 or 5 cross slide. Dalton did not offer?this type of setup so it's?the work of a creative wood worker. As to the tags, yes they are unique as I have never seen tags with the Dalton tool company on it.? If you were to remove the one on top of the larger tag it would probably show the Dalton Mfg Company of NY or possibly?Sound Beach Ct.? We have seen these tag overlays before but never with the wording?yours has. Just looked at the smaller of the two tags that show feed rates.? Neither?one of my TL lathes have this chart.? And I see that the overlay covers?the same tool company information as the overlay does.? It looks like the overlay was installed so they had a place to stamp something on the tag.? Again we have never seen tags like these before. As to the milling attachment I will look through the literature?I have to see if it is in fact a Dalton accessory. Thanks for the great post Trey as well as the great photos. Oh one other thing the TL had no extra change gears as all the feed rates you see on the chart can be gotten using only the gears under the end door.? ?
Oh and one other thing Trey the end door hinge was patented in 1922 and it's I think the last patent Hubert did for the lathe he built. There is one example of a Dalton 10 1/2 inch we think is a prototype that has the same style of end door that your TL has. We have found three examples of this larger lathe but all three are a bit different and all have had the word Dalton ground off any of the castings and there is no serial number.? It has been thought that the company was selling off stuff at the end of their business life to gain revenue.? Or prototypes just had all identification of the company removed and then sold. No literature?has ever been found covering these larger Dalton lathes. Pictures are of my two Dalton TL lathes with the black one being marketed as an electrical shop lathe as it has a very slow speed gear drive as well as having the same spindle nose as the Lot 3 4 and 5 lathe.? The one I have was in original finish and was covered in copper shavings attesting to its work turning commutators on motors and generators. Dennis? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ??
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Good evening everyone.
My family recently purchased an old factory and in the old tool room was a Dalton TL. I am really fond of old machines and have restored a South Bend Heavy 10 and an old knee mill, so when I saw it I quickly snatched it up.? At some point over the years, bed extensions had been welded on and after reading everything I could find on Dalton lathes, I was pretty bummed b/c of not knowing the serial number.??
 
Wasting no time, I got to work tearing everything apart and cleaning it up and while I'm not close to getting everything "paint ready",? I think it's not too bad damaged.? The ways have some marks but that's to be expected after almost 100yrs.?

I knew I didn't want the bed extensions, so I cut them off and stuck the bed in my mill, with the hopes of peeling the metal back until I found the serial number.? Well luck would have it that after two nights, I found part of it.? They had welded part of it up and that is as clean as I can get it.? I think the serial number is 10103 which I would think it high b/c of the tags have the New York address, so I believe it would've had to be built between '22 and '25 but please let me know if you feel that is incorrect.? ?There was a smaller tag with a place for a model number on top of the cutting table tag.
    
Someone has made a steady rest for it over the years, I also found a milling attachment (It looks like it could be from Dalton but there are no markings on it....that I have found), the 3c collets that came with it and a precision level along with a few chucks, and various live and dead centers.? The collets all have Dalton stamped on them.? I have not found the collet draw bar yet, so I guess I'll have to make one of those if I can't find it.
    
I don't think the Master motor is the one that came with it but after doing some research, it is period correct and runs like a top.

My plan is to get it back to as close to new as I can (within reason) and to quote Henry Ford "you can have any color you want as long as its black", so black is what it will be.? I plan to bring everyone along as I go and if anyone has any pointers or information, please let me know.
Thanks Trey
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Glad you saved it!? Look forward to more updates.
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Good evening everyone.
My family recently purchased an old factory and in the old tool room was a Dalton TL. I am really fond of old machines and have restored a South Bend Heavy 10 and an old knee mill, so when I saw it I quickly snatched it up.? At some point over the years, bed extensions had been welded on and after reading everything I could find on Dalton lathes, I was pretty bummed b/c of not knowing the serial number.??
 
Wasting no time, I got to work tearing everything apart and cleaning it up and while I'm not close to getting everything "paint ready",? I think it's not too bad damaged.? The ways have some marks but that's to be expected after almost 100yrs.?

I knew I didn't want the bed extensions, so I cut them off and stuck the bed in my mill, with the hopes of peeling the metal back until I found the serial number.? Well luck would have it that after two nights, I found part of it.? They had welded part of it up and that is as clean as I can get it.? I think the serial number is 10103 which I would think it high b/c of the tags have the New York address, so I believe it would've had to be built between '22 and '25 but please let me know if you feel that is incorrect.? ?There was a smaller tag with a place for a model number on top of the cutting table tag.
    
Someone has made a steady rest for it over the years, I also found a milling attachment (It looks like it could be from Dalton but there are no markings on it....that I have found), the 3c collets that came with it and a precision level along with a few chucks, and various live and dead centers.? The collets all have Dalton stamped on them.? I have not found the collet draw bar yet, so I guess I'll have to make one of those if I can't find it.
    
I don't think the Master motor is the one that came with it but after doing some research, it is period correct and runs like a top.

My plan is to get it back to as close to new as I can (within reason) and to quote Henry Ford "you can have any color you want as long as its black", so black is what it will be.? I plan to bring everyone along as I go and if anyone has any pointers or information, please let me know.
Thanks Trey
|
Good evening everyone. My family recently purchased an old factory and in the old tool room was a Dalton TL. I am really fond of old machines and have restored a South Bend Heavy 10 and an old knee mill, so when I saw it I quickly snatched it up.? At some point over the years, bed extensions had been welded on and after reading everything I could find on Dalton lathes, I was pretty bummed b/c of not knowing the serial number.??   Wasting no time, I got to work tearing everything apart and cleaning it up and while I'm not close to getting everything "paint ready",? I think it's not too bad damaged.? The ways have some marks but that's to be expected after almost 100yrs.?  I knew I didn't want the bed extensions, so I cut them off and stuck the bed in my mill, with the hopes of peeling the metal back until I found the serial number.? Well luck would have it that after two nights, I found part of it.? They had welded part of it up and that is as clean as I can get it.? I think the serial number is 10103 which I would think it high b/c of the tags have the New York address, so I believe it would've had to be built between '22 and '25 but please let me know if you feel that is incorrect.? ?There was a smaller tag with a place for a model number on top of the cutting table tag.      Someone has made a steady rest for it over the years, I also found a milling attachment (It looks like it could be from Dalton but there are no markings on it....that I have found), the 3c collets that came with it and a precision level along with a few chucks, and various live and dead centers.? The collets all have Dalton stamped on them.? I have not found the collet draw bar yet, so I guess I'll have to make one of those if I can't find it.      I don't think the Master motor is the one that came with it but after doing some research, it is period correct and runs like a top.  My plan is to get it back to as close to new as I can (within reason) and to quote Henry Ford "you can have any color you want as long as its black", so black is what it will be.? I plan to bring everyone along as I go and if anyone has any pointers or information, please let me know. Thanks Trey
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When you get your tool post kit the Tee bolt that holds the tool post to the top slide has to be fit to your Tee slot.? This requires the use of a mill.? Dennis.
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Thanks for the input I’m going to get one of those tool posts And I have #37!!!!!
? Also note there is a spacer under the tool post on the Lot 5. You should not need this on your Lot 2. Lot 2 lathes were built in 1913 and are six inch swing lathes where later lathes in this series were 7 1/4 swing.? As to parts I have a few Lot 2 parts left from two parts lathes I have.. As to a tool post the OXA size quick change tool post is your best bet.? I have used this size tool post on my Lot 5 as well as my Dalton Lot 6 lathe with great results. Pictures show an OXA on a Lot 5 lathe.? Also a picture of my Lot 2 serial number 36.?
Hello, I just came across a lot 2 Dalton lathe and want to add a tool post to this. I am looking for some feedback on what others have done. I’m also interested in a 4” Chuck for this.? Does anyone have parts for these lathes?
I’m glad I found this group so I can ask more questions pertaining to these vintage, unique lathes.
Craig
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