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It was done all the time back then. Just a spst toggle to short out the? ALC jack.? ?Then it looked like a solid green bar on the scope, instead of the typ 'xmas tree' pattern. Funny thing was,

Mine are silver plated copper.

Hello Lyndon. WB4HFN page can be of help. Also GW4ALG used to have a page on homebrew versions of the modules you have. Those old pages can be seen here: https://www.4alg.uk/radio/tr7/mods.htm This

thanks! Shawn kj7mx

I think they are actually plated copper. "K6OXN Bob via groups.io" <bobk6oxn@...> wrote: -- 73 -Jim NU0C

I don't have a nanoVna but the coil is the original .5 inch twisted aluminum original in the L7

Same here when I had an R7 with an AUX-7 board. Here's a not so great pic of one I made 40 years ago but it doesn't look quite right based on the info in the Module programming chart on page 4 of the

*** I did it too. I got the appropriate Molex connectors in Ebay, and wired up essentially a complete Aux7 on a piece of perfboard. Well, except for the crystal oscillators. - Jerry, KF6VB

So I just went diode shopping at Newark. They were giving away 4148s! I just bought a lifetime supply (1000) for twelve bucks. I just wish they sold caps that cheap ... --lyndon

Yup, DIP headers and 4148s are the way to go. This hack is years old. I did it in the late 80s and it had been around a while by then. :) 73 -Jim NU0C "Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io"

It could. Really the coil should be shorting out the resistors at HF frequencies so very little RF will pass through them. You don't have that Nichrome snake oil that was going around a few years ago,

My brain meant to type 4148, but my fingers had other ideas ;-) My plan of attack is also to use headers. I have the AUX-7 documentation so I'm good to go. Thanks for the confirmation. --lyndon

I’ve used 1N4148’s on DIP headers. 1N914’s work just as well. Somewhere on Ron’s page are the diagrams for setting the bands. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like

Quick and maybe easy question, Could a cold or poor solder joint on the Parasitic Resistors where they attach to the so called coil of the Plate connector cause my problems with the hot resistors?

From poking around the band modules on the AUX-7 I acquired, they just seem to be diodes connecting pin 1 to everything else, right? Is there any reason I can't just roll my own with 1N4001s or

The resistors I replaced were 2 watt 47 ohm carbon composition resistors just like the one's that exploded. I am still perplexed as to why these would run so hot as to burn up. All items in that

Probably not a huge issue. The L4B uses a pair of .001 uF (1000 pf) in parallel for .002 uF. So the value can vary a bit. The pair of 760 pF would be 1520 pF total. Fix your parasitic suppressors

It sounds like your resistors may be inductive. Metal composition are suggested here: https://www.ctrengineeringinc.com/parts-for-sale/specialized-and-specific-application-resistors/ Also suggested

Ok while running at the lower CW hv, I noticed a distinct smell of burning resistors. Took the amp case off and found both of the Parasitic resistors from the Plate in the Plate Choke to be burned. I

Hans, G0UPL , designer of the? VFO I used in my TTR-7 digital VFO has sent a link to an excellent white paper he wrote on the Si5351A phase noise. Well worth the read at: