OK sorry for the mistake I used the term in reference to the meter not reading correctly.
73 Tim WB8UHZ
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 10:55:56 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
OK but please stop calling them shunts. They are series voltage dropping resistors. The only shunt is the pot. A shunt is a resistance across the meter terminals to increase the current value needed for a full scale reading.
On Wed, 8 Jan 2025 03:38:34 +0000 (UTC) "amfone via groups.io" <amfone20000@...> wrote: >? Jim thanks for your help regarding the location and the voltage requirements of the shunts. -- 73 -Jim NU0C
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6HS6 Price and Availability
Okay, so I know there has been a lot of discussion about the cost of these tubes. ?They are a relatively high transconductance IF amplifier tube ¡ª so what? ?I priced these tubes today from roughly $38 to $60, EACH. ?Come on folks, are these tubes really that rare and unique, or has somebody found a way to inflate the price to make a big quick-profit. ?I¡¯ve heard these stories of, ¡°Oh, tubes are getting scarce.¡± ? (The sky is falling, the sky is falling!) ?Then when one checks, well, the sky isn¡¯t actually falling, and there are LOTS of good NOS tubes available. ?I would like to run a B-line without the inflation manipulation. ?How often do these tubes need to be replaced, by experience (not rumor)? ?Please, I would like to know the truth about what¡¯s going on with the 6HS6 vacuum tube. ?Why are they priced so high?
?
Thank you.
?
73, Michael Smith, N4KZO
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Re: Anyone have an R4B dial?
Steve,
?
Are the dials you have seen made by Radio Daze, perhaps?
?
73,
Michael Smith, N4KZO
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OK but please stop calling them shunts. They are series voltage dropping resistors. The only shunt is the pot. A shunt is a resistance across the meter terminals to increase the current value needed for a full scale reading. On Wed, 8 Jan 2025 03:38:34 +0000 (UTC) "amfone via groups.io" <amfone20000@...> wrote: Jim thanks for your help regarding the location and the voltage requirements of the shunts. -- 73 -Jim NU0C
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Jim thanks for your help regarding the location and the voltage requirements of the shunts.
These are the the resistors I purchased from Mouser, with the data sheet available to open from Mouser below it as I read it when I purchased these they are high voltage they are 2.2 meg at 1/2 watt 1% tolerance. Any advice I will appreciate thanks Tim
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 10:02:39 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Yes, that is where they are. It is a simple circuit. The only shunt in the circuit is the 10K pot R17. It adjusts the amount of current to the meter to provide a calibrated reading on the meter. The 2.2M series dropping resistors can be individually measured with a good DMM. Any one of them going open can render the circuit inoperable. I hope the resistors you bought are rated for high voltage. Each resistor in the circuit will develop over 280V across it when the HV is set to SSB.
On Wed, 8 Jan 2025 02:32:54 +0000
"Thomas W9TAB via groups.io" <electron@...> wrote:
> As I read the schematic R8 through R15 are the shunts 2.2 Meg and 1/2 watt. I have those from Mouser as of today. I have not opened the L7 but I believe they are located right behind the 3-500Z tubes in a clear sleeve
--
73
-Jim
NU0C
|
Yes, that is where they are. It is a simple circuit. The only shunt in the circuit is the 10K pot R17. It adjusts the amount of current to the meter to provide a calibrated reading on the meter. The 2.2M series dropping resistors can be individually measured with a good DMM. Any one of them going open can render the circuit inoperable. I hope the resistors you bought are rated for high voltage. Each resistor in the circuit will develop over 280V across it when the HV is set to SSB. On Wed, 8 Jan 2025 02:32:54 +0000 "Thomas W9TAB via groups.io" <electron@...> wrote: As I read the schematic R8 through R15 are the shunts 2.2 Meg and 1/2 watt. I have those from Mouser as of today. I have not opened the L7 but I believe they are located right behind the 3-500Z tubes in a clear sleeve -- 73 -Jim NU0C
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On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 09:32:59 PM EST, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
Your L7 S/N is close to mine, I would perform the grid current meter calibration step to verify the meter functionality which is supplied by a voltage divider network (1 ohm 12w resistor) into a 200ua meter movement.?
I used an adjustable current / voltage bench top power supply and my Fluke 87 DMM set to madc, I checked it with the Fluke and power supply first then I put the grid circuit in series, there is an adjustment on the metering board.?
My plate current meter has an external shunt on the back of the meter and can be checked in a similar way as the grid current setup + to test point ¡°A¡± (Orange wire near edge of board) and the return would be pin 6 on the rear connector for the
plate circuit.?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 4:57?PM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Thomas its not the switches for the meter and other aspects of the meter forward watts reflected watts etc, it all works, lights are on etc. Pushing the Ep volts meter several times changes nothing what is happening
is I read 1600V no load in the CW position and 2300 in the SSB position, the supply is not the issue. I'm thinking its the meter shunts one of them anyway. As I read the schematic R8 through R15 are the shunts 2.2 Meg and 1/2 watt. I have those from Mouser
as of today. I have not opened the L7 but I believe they are located right behind the 3-500Z tubes in a clear sleeve probably made of woven glass pure fiber which acts like a heat resistant cover or its just heat shrink tubing.
Any info appreciated especially for anyone who has actually changed the shunts in an L7. The S/N on this L7 is 2960.
Thanks Tim
WB8UHZ
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 03:20:43 PM EST, Clayton kk4iz via groups.io <kk4iz284@...> wrote:
I did check for shorts and loose wires. I clean the push buttons with a good contact clean ?but still no meter movement the lights do come on when pushed
On Jan 7, 2025, at 1:47?PM, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
A good diagnostic check of the L7¡¯s Schadow push button switches is ¡°Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?¡±?
If not they might need cleaning.?
There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--?
73
-Jim
NU0C
73¡¯²õ
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Your L7 S/N is close to mine, I would perform the grid current meter calibration step to verify the meter functionality which is supplied by a voltage divider network (1 ohm 12w resistor) into a 200ua meter movement.?
I used an adjustable current / voltage bench top power supply and my Fluke 87 DMM set to madc, I checked it with the Fluke and power supply first then I put the grid circuit in series, there is an adjustment on the metering board.?
My plate current meter has an external shunt on the back of the meter and can be checked in a similar way as the grid current setup + to test point ¡°A¡± (Orange wire near edge of board) and the return would be pin 6 on the rear connector for the
plate circuit.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2025, at 4:57?PM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Thomas its not the switches for the meter and other aspects of the meter forward watts reflected watts etc, it all works, lights are on etc. Pushing the Ep volts meter several times changes nothing what is happening
is I read 1600V no load in the CW position and 2300 in the SSB position, the supply is not the issue. I'm thinking its the meter shunts one of them anyway. As I read the schematic R8 through R15 are the shunts 2.2 Meg and 1/2 watt. I have those from Mouser
as of today. I have not opened the L7 but I believe they are located right behind the 3-500Z tubes in a clear sleeve probably made of woven glass pure fiber which acts like a heat resistant cover or its just heat shrink tubing.
Any info appreciated especially for anyone who has actually changed the shunts in an L7. The S/N on this L7 is 2960.
Thanks Tim
WB8UHZ
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 03:20:43 PM EST, Clayton kk4iz via groups.io <kk4iz284@...> wrote:
I did check for shorts and loose wires. I clean the push buttons with a good contact clean ?but still no meter movement the lights do come on when pushed
On Jan 7, 2025, at 1:47?PM, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
A good diagnostic check of the L7¡¯s Schadow push button switches is ¡°Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?¡±?
If not they might need cleaning.?
There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--?
73
-Jim
NU0C
73¡¯²õ
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Re: AFG/RFG controls R4C (W1ES)
I just jumpered the RFG and used an on/off/volume pot on my TR-3.? I never use the RFG on any radios I own.
|
Thanks Thomas its not the switches for the meter and other aspects of the meter forward watts reflected watts etc, it all works, lights are on etc. Pushing the Ep volts meter several times changes nothing what is happening is I read 1600V no load in the CW position and 2300 in the SSB position, the supply is not the issue. I'm thinking its the meter shunts one of them anyway. As I read the schematic R8 through R15 are the shunts 2.2 Meg and 1/2 watt. I have those from Mouser as of today. I have not opened the L7 but I believe they are located right behind the 3-500Z tubes in a clear sleeve probably made of woven glass pure fiber which acts like a heat resistant cover or its just heat shrink tubing.
Any info appreciated especially for anyone who has actually changed the shunts in an L7. The S/N on this L7 is 2960.
Thanks Tim
WB8UHZ
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 03:20:43 PM EST, Clayton kk4iz via groups.io <kk4iz284@...> wrote:
I did check for shorts and loose wires. I clean the push buttons with a good contact clean ?but still no meter movement the lights do come on when pushed On Jan 7, 2025, at 1:47?PM, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
A good diagnostic check of the L7¡¯s Schadow push button switches is ¡°Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?¡±? If not they might need cleaning.? There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.? On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
? Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--?
73
-Jim
NU0C
73¡¯²õ
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Re: Anyone have an R4B dial?
I recommend cranking the dial back just a tad on the toaster.
Barry - N4BUQ
Here's a good pic of the "toasted" dial, this one being from an Ebay ad:
Likewise in regards getting a couple for spares. There must have been a process or vendor problem to explain the toasted dials. I've only ever seen it on the B .
John
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 11:37?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: I have one that is also toasted, so not much use.? We need someone here who is skilful with transferring images to other media (plastic) to create some new dials.? I would gladly buy a couple to have on-hand, as well as some correct dials for the C Line.
Yes, I said it.? The C Line dials that have been for sale are not acceptable for use as such.? The hole patterns are off but worse is that the 100s dial has tick marks at the same spacing as the 10s dial.? This was a major mistake that renders the 100s dial useless.? If anyone knows the owner of the company providing these, perhaps we could get it fixed.
And yes... I would buy a couple of sets to use as spares.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Tuesday, January 7th, 2025 at 10:43 AM, John K5MO via <johnk5mo= [email protected]> wrote:
My R4B has a "toasted" dial. I've seen them turn out this way when it's left in the sun, but usually only that section that is exposed. This one seems darkened throughout.
Anyone have an extra for sale?? I see Radio Daze has repro's for the C line but not the B.
Thanks and HNY
John
|
Re: Anyone have an R4B dial?
Here's a good pic of the "toasted" dial, this one being from an Ebay ad:
Likewise in regards getting a couple for spares.
There must have been a process or vendor problem to explain the toasted dials. I've only ever seen it on the B .
John
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 11:37?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: I have one that is also toasted, so not much use.? We need someone here who is skilful with transferring images to other media (plastic) to create some new dials.? I would gladly buy a couple to have on-hand, as well as some correct dials for the C Line.
Yes, I said it.? The C Line dials that have been for sale are not acceptable for use as such.? The hole patterns are off but worse is that the 100s dial has tick marks at the same spacing as the 10s dial.? This was a major mistake that renders the 100s dial useless.? If anyone knows the owner of the company providing these, perhaps we could get it fixed.
And yes... I would buy a couple of sets to use as spares.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Tuesday, January 7th, 2025 at 10:43 AM, John K5MO via <johnk5mo= [email protected]> wrote:
My R4B has a "toasted" dial. I've seen them turn out this way when it's left in the sun, but usually only that section that is exposed. This one seems darkened throughout.
Anyone have an extra for sale?? I see Radio Daze has repro's for the C line but not the B.
Thanks and HNY
John
|
Re: Using the PLJ-6LED digital display with the R4C
The PTO needs very good buffering. Otherwise the signal drops and sensitivity is reduced significantly. I used an FET as a source follower with 50 ohms. So you can connect standard coax.? Of course to feed your FS4B, Gary! ? 73, Dieter DL5RDO
Von meinem iPhone gesendet
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Am 07.01.2025 um 22:23 schrieb Gary WB6OGD via groups.io <winbladgary@...>:
? If you don¡¯t really need to see the MHz,? you could tap the PTO signal, it is larger and is the same for all bands. 73, Gary? WB6OGD On Jan 7, 2025, at 10:05?AM, Paul Christensen via groups.io <w9ac@...> wrote:
? Possibly consider a J310 JFET as a common-source amp placed right at the source of the INJ jack. Resistors chosen for a gain of A = 2 (6 dB) to get over the minimum RF sample voltage requirement. ? ? The JFET unloads the INJ line to the Hi-Z gate and that isolates the INJ source from cable capacitance to the freq. counter.? With adequate PS decoupling, probably a half-dozen parts are needed, mounted either on a 5-6 lug terminal strip or Vector board.? ? The common I.F. output buffers often seen are common-drain source-followers with a gain of less than 1.0.? That won¡¯t work in this instance to solve the problem.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
Re: Using the PLJ-6LED digital display with the R4C
If you don¡¯t really need to see the MHz,? you could tap the PTO signal, it is larger and is the same for all bands. 73, Gary? WB6OGD
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2025, at 10:05?AM, Paul Christensen via groups.io <w9ac@...> wrote:
? Possibly consider a J310 JFET as a common-source amp placed right at the source of the INJ jack. Resistors chosen for a gain of A = 2 (6 dB) to get over the minimum RF sample voltage requirement. ? ? The JFET unloads the INJ line to the Hi-Z gate and that isolates the INJ source from cable capacitance to the freq. counter.? With adequate PS decoupling, probably a half-dozen parts are needed, mounted either on a 5-6 lug terminal strip or Vector board.? ? The common I.F. output buffers often seen are common-drain source-followers with a gain of less than 1.0.? That won¡¯t work in this instance to solve the problem.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
Actually I made a mistake. Mine are 3/8 by 1 and 1/8.?
Are your about 1 and 1/8 Long ? ?That would be great.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Could be your lucky day. I found four.
?
Doug
?
?
?
Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
I have one. 5/8¡± long.
?
?
Doug
?
?
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Another source for Mn2000 broken insulator
If one wanted to switch to phenolic spacers like those used in some MN-2700 tuners, eBay has quite a selection. ?Might even have the ideal size, if not, they are easily cut to length with a hacksaw.
Looks like these have become a valued part. ?My local Tru-Value hardware store has nylon spacers, various lengths, various diameters, threaded and unthreaded. ?Not sure about the big box stores or other areas of the country.
Could be your lucky day. I found four. ? Doug ? ? ? Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
Looks like these have become a valued part. ?My local Tru-Value hardware store has nylon spacers, various lengths, various diameters, threaded and unthreaded. ?Not sure about the big box stores or other areas of the country.
Could be your lucky day. I found four. ? Doug ? ? ? Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
Could be your lucky day. I found four. ? Doug ? ? ? Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
They can also easily be homebrewed with solid teflon or delrin rod.?
|
I did check for shorts and loose wires. I clean the push buttons with a good contact clean ?but still no meter movement the lights do come on when pushed On Jan 7, 2025, at 1:47?PM, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
A good diagnostic check of the L7¡¯s Schadow push button switches is ¡°Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?¡±? If not they might need cleaning.? There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.? On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
? Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--?
73
-Jim
NU0C
73¡¯²õ
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Jim Shorney
Thomas W9TAB
Gary WB6OGD