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Don't waste money on those pcb rebuild kits. I was able to put new (and cheaper) radial caps under the chassis.? New caps are waaayy smaller! See the photos of an AC-3 I rebuilt a few years ago.?

Interested in replies to this as I have a TR-4C on my bench right now.?? One issue I chased was over-current on full power - full power tune up has the meter way over towards .6.? I've been

I suspected that might be the case. His website is still up probably to dispose of left over odds and ends. Tony

This is a TR-4C. Is the can capacitor original and, if it is, has it been disconnected and discrete caps installed under the chassis? The TR-4C's original can cap has a very high failure rate now. It

I believe that the Harbach set is what's sold on Nationwide. Harbach was sold on to keep it going. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with [Proton

Exactly, which means that any kid or critter could touch dangerous voltages. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/mail/home)

The first time I noticed that wire, I followed it back and it dawned on me. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

Although I consider driver failures rare in Drake equipment, I would try swapping the driver first simply because 6JB6's are fairly expensive these days. It does seem like your finals are about done,

OK re. the wire as a pickup. Cool. I have some Lithium grease. OK on ... "A little dab will do ya!" :-)? David KD4E

David, The loose wire is from the calibrator -- it's a short antenna to couple in with the receive input. I've never seen rust on these bearings. I would try some light lithium grease. I'm reluctant

So, finally had some time to get back on this project, winter field day kept me busy over the weekend. And thanks to all in advance for everyone's help and suggestions on this project. I did all the

I just added two pics of the back panel (images 11 & 12) - in case the serial number provides any useful context. Thanks, David KD4E

Thanks, Tony

Perfect. That’s what I thought but I wanted to make sure. I did see KE9PQ’s rebuild kits which look really good. I was sorry to see that Harbaugh seems to be winding down since I have installed

That makes good sense. Different products for different purposes - one for the electrical contact surfaces, the other for mechanical areas.

My technique is slightly different. ?I use DeOxit products on the switch contacts themselves but use a sparing amount of silicon based lubricant (-40 deg to 300 deg F) on the switch shaft contact

But, on the other hand, your vocabulary might be increasing...

Diving into the lack of any 1s of MHz indicated on the display. I set the radio to 7 MHz band, courtesy of a module on the AUX7 card, and thereby side-stepping any issues there clearly are with the

Looking over the TR-4 it appears generally clean, but I spotted a loose wire (see the yellow wire looped over the switch wafer in Image 8) here ... https://kd4e.com/kd4e-html/drake-tr4.html and rust

I'll have a look at the options. Thanks.