It looks like those might work, however, I suspect that there is no way to use the red pointer with one.
I am still hoping to find out how to put the one I have back together. Nothing is broken- I just can't figure out how to get the preload on the bearings.
Thanks for your suggestion. I will keep your idea as Plan B.
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 2:59?PM VE7PS <ve7ps@...> wrote:
How about installing a Jackson Bros 6:1 ball drive on the sub-panel?? You could even use one of the more rare, dual speed ones, for very precise control.? I've used these on homebrew?VHF amps with great success.? I can't think of why it wouldn't work there as well.? The one Drake used was a very cheap version of the same thing. Bean counter influence, no doubt, as they were around back then.
73
Peter
VE7PS
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 1:42?PM wb6ogd <garywinblad@...> wrote:
Now I see..? the C-line is different from my A and B lines!
If it does depend on pre-load like you say, you just need a big clamp..? and remove the final cage and tubes. My biggest clam is not big enough but you get the idea.
Or, nobody says you really need a vernier.? My early T-4X and the up to the early R-4A rigs didn't have them. I even watched a YouTube recently that the guy bragged about the nice fast adjustment on his early rig! Just freeze the two shafts somehow, maybe JB Weld or squeezing them?