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I use heavy wheel bearing grease. It provides plenty of friction. I won’t look up the brand, as the jar of this stuff is from the 1950’s and has been a lifetime supply for both my dad and me.

I often buy parts from justradios.com - here is the resistor link - https://www.justradios.com/resistors.html Doug, WA3DSP

Curious if anyone has ever used either a 12DQ7 or 12BV7 in place of the 12BY7 in a T4XC?? I have to search through my thousands of tubes and while I will primarily be looking for a 12BY7 I was just

Thanks for the practical, common sense application feedback guys. For wattage it looks like I will stick with the original specs, maybe go 1 watt, and also not be overly focused on tighter value

There is NO reason these resistors need to be 1%. 5 or even 10% are fine and you can always select from a stash to match them if that is your thing. They don't even need to be exactly the specified

and NEVER OIL THEM.? oil them and 90% chance they will not work any longer.? They NEED friction to function. Joe WB9SBD

Bill, These are planetary drives..? the "bearings" are actually like gears, THEY are what you need to pre-load. Clamp it end to end to compress the spring a little, then tighten the screws. That is

I would stick to the Drake specs. too. I know that the 1500 ohm 1/2 watt resistors that supply the B+ to the stages in the R-4 series work like fuses. Put in a larger power one and possibly damage the

Bravo my friend. 73, Bill AE8EA

The fact that these 50-60 year old radios have continued running well on the parts that they were made from is a testament to their overall good design. Most of the problems appearing in these sets

Peter, It looks like those might work, however, I suspect that there is no way to use the red pointer with one. I am still hoping to find out how to put the one I have back together. Nothing is

Even at? 400ma (total) cathode current, those 15Ω cathode resistors (@200ma ea)? would only dissipate (I 2 R) about 0.6W Since no one (ever) operates a T4X key down at 400ma , 1W cathode resistors

Gary, My Plan A is to use a clamp just as you suggested, even if I need to fabricate one. However, after playing around with the vernier today I am not sure how to assemble it so it has the required

The screen resistors are 1/2 watt, as built. This may help you. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/) secure email.

Maybe I'm just being too exacting about this, but I cannot seem to find any one supplier that has in stock both of the "oversized" precision sizes of cathode and screen grid resistors that have been

Hi John, I have connectors on order for two sets of extenders.? They should arrive tomorrow.? It appears you can use a set right away and could be a way for me to test the first prototype set I

Bear in mind also that it is not difficult to power up individual boards "naked" on the workbench to do some basic troubleshooting. 73 -Jim NU0C "John B" <wb9fhl@...> wrote:

Absolutely correct Peter. I have never manufactured the extenders. 73 -Jim NU0C "VE7PS" <ve7ps@...> wrote:

How about installing a Jackson Bros 6:1 ball drive on the sub-panel? You could even use one of the more rare, dual speed ones, for very precise control. I've used these on homebrew VHF amps with great

Now I see..? the C-line is different from my A and B lines! If it does depend on pre-load like you say, you just need a big clamp..? and remove the final cage and tubes. My biggest clam is not big