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*A place to measure, Eni HV transformers and share that information.* *It's* *a FOCUS THREAD, so stay focused on this subject within this thread.* *Geo*

will do and I will report back.. and to make sure I check the correct wire pairs:? ?according to schematic,? ?pins 1 and 2 together;? pins 3 and 4 together;? and pins 5 and? 6 together.?

Michael C Can you measure the resistance of the 3 windings, and check each for a short to ground? You may have to suck the solder out of the hole to get to the wires alone. Geo To: "CDV700CLUB"

nope, wasn't that.? hardwired batteries to board no spring clips... no difference.? ?Replaced CR4 for grins, no difference.? ? Replaced all three transistors with new russians, no difference.?

I wonder if crappy battery tray connections (there are 8 of them) are part of my problem.? ?I think I may hard wire to the board and use battery boxes while I am debugging to remove that as a

I've not ever had to replace that diode. Test it before jumping. Battery tray, still with spring attachments, those are terrible when they are working right! that problem completely eliminated in the

*it is hard to access anything with the ENI battery tray attached.? I was able to get a probe in on a couple of points and where I should measure 15 v I measure 7v.? ?ENI manual says if this

PS this repair, when finished, will make a great repair story for GeigerCounterEnthusisatsGroup, especially with you great pictures. My cameras are 20 and 27 year old technology. George To:

All readers , I second what Perter said: "Even if 900V is not present, it might be intermittent, so exercise caution. It might appear while probing if there is a cold solder joint or a cracked trace

In the manual, the schematic pages usually show the nominal voltages. Perhaps, after the visual check you can probe the board for voltages. If -15V is not there, that's a hint. osc tr, or transformer

OK, Michael C., yes what you did are the logical first steps. Next, check the -15.5V test point it's located at the end of one of those electrolytic and is featured in the manual on the schematic

I haven't started converting yet.. still checking out the original unit to see if worth pursuing. checked the board for cracks. didn't see any.? the traces are good. I am not getting 900V to the

thanks for the tips and help.? ?and I found an outfit in England that sells CDV 700 parts.? I got a new ENI rotary switch and Mod-A from them. I bought them for the spares kit, maybe i will put

Good, drop by anytime. I've seen several different transformers, all original and from many different manufacturers, the groddy looking ones are the best, the nice new looking ones with no gunk have

yes, the hex head screw and star washer are tight.? ?where the coax probe cable solders to the board by R12, the cable shield is grounded to the chassis mounting post right there at the screw down

WAIT! I forgot first step-- important. There is a 1/4" hex head going through the PCB near the transformer, that one screw is the only one that grounds the PCB to the case. If that is not there, it

Good Michael, you are equipped! Every trouble shooting experience always starts with a smell (sniff)n test and a really good visual looking over under bright lighting, in that order. We'll walk you

I have a high voltage meter I bought from you.? I have the pulse calibrator I bought from you.? I have a standard volt meter.? I have no electrical background (chem E) but can solder and read. Good

Michael C Can you hear the HV singing? Tell me about any electronics test meters etc. you have access to.... Turn it off and examine the PCB under a strong light, even a minute crack can interrupt a

well,I would start by looking at anything that has a DC path to the meter. Check the diodes and transistors that are connected to the meter. P