开云体育

Hello all,

Just joined the group. I've been lurking for a bit now, finally got
around to it...

I just finished building my CNC Router. (24"x26"x5") It came out
better than expected. Now that I have it up and running (and making
money) I am looking at building another, smaller CNC, probably a
Dremel tool type, 12"x12"x3" (for engraving only)

This is my query: On my first machine, I used Gecko's, a nice power
supply from Microkinetics and some beefy motors. While these all work
quite well, they tend to drive up the overall cost of the project.
Would anyone know where I could find some rather inexpensive motor
drivers? What about a power supply? I'm thinking about using NEMA
23's, which should be more than enough. Whatever I get, it has to be
simple, inexpensive, and already or mostly assembled. i'm a
machinist, not an electrical engineer. :)


Thanks in advance

Seth

Franco,
Please enlighten us further. What is the name of the
rust-disolving fluid? Do you know if it's available
internationally? This is probably, now an O.T. post, so
please respond to me directly:

RayHex jnr@...

----------

From: Franco Candido <candidomold@...>

Hello Mike I have two full size EDM's Japax, plus

mills. But when it

comes to taking out exhaust manifold studs that are

really rusted in there.

I have found a rust disolving solution that is fantastic.

All you do is heat

it .......

How much force does it take to cut foam with a CNC router? I've
searched the web but only found references for hot wire cutters. I
would like to get a handle on just how beefy you have to make a foam
router, I suspect a lot less than a wood router. It seems that wire
cutters don't take much beef. Any experience or thoughts?

Roger

JJ,

Yes, that's exactly right. The link to a catalog picture of the
breakdown that Bill H posted last night shows the configuration.

I'm hoping I can find some new pins tommorrow at one of our local
electronic suppliers. The existing pins would still work, but are so
goobered up with sloppy soldering jobs that it'd be much cleasner to
start with new pins.

Doug

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "JJ" <jj5412@e...> wrote:

These Amp connectors are a little different. The pins have a flange
machined on them, which is used to capture the pin between two

phenolic

disks. The only way to do it is disassemble the connector by

removing

the snap ring.

Regards,
JJ

Be Kind, Be Careful, Be Yourself

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Marconett KM6VV [mailto:KM6VV@a...]
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 5:24 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Pin removal, Amphenol plug????


Hi Doug,

This is just a guess, but if the pins work like Amphenol RS-232

pins,

the removal tool is a thin tube that is split, and will slide

over the

pin from the backside of the connector. A thin tube rolled
up from shim
brass might work, if you want to home-brew a tool.

Alan KM6VV

doug98105 wrote:

Hello Group,

Amphenol plug #20-33P....

The right angle fitting on the cable of my mill's Haas 4th axis

head

broke. It's a 3/8" armored cable. I have to remove the wires

from

the plug connector on the opposite end of the cable, pull the

wires

back through and replace the right angle fitting.

I don't see how the pins are pushed out of the Amphenol

connector.

Or maybe the connector body comes apart somehow to allow the pin
removal. Anyhow, it's not obvious. It's an 11 pin connector.

I checked Amphenol's website to look for a breakdown of my
connector. Their search function didn't seem to recognize the

part

number, they may have a new numbering system since nothing

appeared

close to my number series.

Anyone have an idea how to get these pins out of the

connector body??

thanks,

Doug

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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Hello Mike I have two full size EDM's Japax, plus mills. But when it
comes to taking out exhaust manifold studs that are really rusted in there.
I have found a rust disolving solution that is fantastic. All you do is heat
it up a little, I used an old kettle, you don't have to boil the water based
rust remover, just warm or hot. This speeds up the process, and within
24hrs. the studs can be removed with just your fingers. The rust remover
only disoles the rust and goes right between the threads. I used to spend
hours just setting up the manifolds to remove the studs, not any more.
Franco Candido
candidomold@...

From: mueller914 <mmueller@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2002 12:50 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] "Light Bulb" EDM ???

In the latest issue of one of the home shop Machine mags, they had a
feature with a home built EDM which for some reason used light bulbs
(controlling the freq. I guess)

anyone have more detailed plans for the electrical side of this
project or point me in the right direction?

I have a few broken exhaust studs that I'd like to remove myself

Thanks,

Mike


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NAMES is North American Model Engineering Society or (show) depending on
the context. The show is in April near Detroit Michigan. The model work
done by the hundreds of exhibitors is worth the price of travel and
admission.

I just met with Roland Friestad, the fellow who coordinates the "open"
CNC stuff there. He plans to have two seminars, one for hardware and
machine conversion and one for software. These will both be in a much
larger room than last year. No one will be turned away for lack of space
again!

I'll be there if, as the old gospel singer said, "The Good Lord's willin'
and the creek don't rise."

Your plans sound great!

Ray

Jon

The need for the small encoder is the product of trying to use the
existing feedback packages with the Hardinge Lathe. This would only be a
problem if you wanted to use the existing GE drive amps which require
tach feedback. If you used newer servo amps that derive velocity from
position you would not have this problem and could use any diameter
encoder up to 3 inch.

Yes, I believe that you might be able to fit a 1 inch diameter encoder in
the feedback package where the resolver was. Three problems spring
immediately to mind. Finding a drive gear for it's shaft, making an
eccentric collar so that the gears can be adjusted, and being certain
that the encoder's bearings can handle the the radial force required to
drive it. The existing tach and resolver also have a small groove around
them near the drive end that is used to mount them to the feedback
package.

This would not be an easy conversion and make the cost of the chip based
resolver to pulse coder solution attractive -- or replace the drive amps
as well as the feedback.

Ray

These Amp connectors are a little different. The pins have a flange
machined on them, which is used to capture the pin between two phenolic
disks. The only way to do it is disassemble the connector by removing
the snap ring.

Regards,
JJ

Be Kind, Be Careful, Be Yourself

Hi Doug,

This is just a guess, but if the pins work like Amphenol RS-232 pins,
the removal tool is a thin tube that is split, and will slide over the
pin from the backside of the connector. A thin tube rolled up from shim
brass might work, if you want to home-brew a tool.

Alan KM6VV

doug98105 wrote:

Post it to the list, and then we can move on, otherwise at leas xx number
will post asking for it. Then it is Off Topic.
bill
List Mom

Hi,

I also use the Mitsubitshi inverter, there on sell on e-bay (ex-stock
or something), with full warranty.
see this link:

.html

Hugo


for --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Marv Frankel <dcdziner@p...> wrote:

Dan,
I'm also running a Mitsubishi VFD but mine is the S500

series. Up

until just the other day, when I read a post from one of the list

members, I

didn't realize it was possible to control speeds through the CNC

driver.

That goes onto my list of functions when I design my system.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Mauch" <dmauch@s...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...>
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 11:32 AM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Added a VFD to my CNC mill

About a year ago I bought am Mitsubishi VFD for $238 on ebay. It
came with a 190 page installation, setup and operation manual. I

took a

look at it and indeed it was a really nice inverter that would

take

single or three phase supply and would run the three phase motor

on my

enco mill. Most important was that it allowed for external manual
control with a speed pot, Parameter Unit, (a fancy keypad and LCD
display for programming the unit) and for setting various

parameters)

and last and most importantly it took a +5 analog signal from an
external source for PC control. Well. I finally got around to

connecting

it to my machine. Wow! I am impressed. So far I am just using the
parameter unit for changing speeds. It works like a dream and

runs the 3

phase motor much better than the Phase-o-matic inverter that I

use to

use.
Most impressive is that you can program the acceleration and
deceleration rates of the motor. Before my spindle would take for

ever

to coast to a stop. I would have to use the brake. Now I have it
programmed to stop in 4 seconds.
I am going to figure out how to use the analog signal from

DeskwinNC to

turn on and off my VFD and set the speed from computer via the G

code. I

think that would really be a nice to automatically turn on the

spindle

motor and set the speed via the program. So far I can heartily

recommend

the Mitsubishi FR200E series inverters. BTW I have been told these
normally sell for around $800 but got mine New off ebay for a

fraction

of that. It sure is nice not to have to change pulleys all the

time.

Last I would like to know how to calculate the maximum safe speed

that I

can run the spindle at. I would think that the 3500 RPM 50 Hz

motor

would cause the spindle pulley to explode if run at 400 Hz.
Dan



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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:

aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to

reach it if

you have trouble.

I consider this

to be a

sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are

there, for OT

subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY

POSTING THEM.

DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........

bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Dan,
According to a pdf file that I have (from NEMA I believe), the max safe
speed of a 3600 rpm motor will be 7200 rpm (up to and including 5HP) If
you would like, I would be more than happy to mail the file to you.

I also have another file from a motor manufacturer that includes this
information:

"Maximum Safe Mechanical
Speed Limits
(does not imply constant
horsepower capability)
Motor @ 1800 rpm
Frame Direct Belted*
56-184 5400 2250
213-256 4200 2250
284-286 3600 2250
324-326 3600 2250
364-365 2700 2250
404-449 2700 2250
*Belted per NEMA MG1-14.41 (dated
1993)"

However, I cannot find reference to this information in the NEMA file
listed above:{( Also, nobody that I have talked with can tell me WHY the
belted rate is lower than the direct drive rate??? However, I will also be
glad to forward the contents of this pdf to you also if desired.

Based on what I gleaned from these two files, on my 60Hz motor, I limited
the speed on my RF31 to a max of 100 Hz. With the belting arrangement I
have (replaced the 17mm bore original pulley with a single 7/8") on the
new 3ph motor, I can achieve speeds of 111 to 2220 rpm with no additional
belt changes. Now having said this, there isn't much torque at 111 rpm and
I have stalled it a time or two at that speed. As a matter of fact, I also
had it kick out on overload due to the extremely low rpm of the motor and
lack of cooling:{(

Still, I think it was the next best investment to my machine shop since
adding the mill/drill. And as you say, no more belt changes. Another
feature of my VFD is that I was able to set it up to give direct RPM
reading on the panel and I never have gotten round-to building that tach I
bought from you:})




At 11:32 AM 10/27/02 -0800, you wrote:

About a year ago I bought am Mitsubishi VFD for $238 on ebay. It
came with a 190 page installation, setup and operation manual. I took a
look at it and indeed it was a really nice inverter that would take
single or three phase supply and would run the three phase motor on my
enco mill. Most important was that it allowed for external manual
control with a speed pot, Parameter Unit, (a fancy keypad and LCD
display for programming the unit) and for setting various parameters)
and last and most importantly it took a +5 analog signal from an
external source for PC control. Well. I finally got around to connecting
it to my machine. Wow! I am impressed. So far I am just using the
parameter unit for changing speeds. It works like a dream and runs the 3
phase motor much better than the Phase-o-matic inverter that I use to
use.
Most impressive is that you can program the acceleration and
deceleration rates of the motor. Before my spindle would take for ever
to coast to a stop. I would have to use the brake. Now I have it
programmed to stop in 4 seconds.
I am going to figure out how to use the analog signal from DeskwinNC to
turn on and off my VFD and set the speed from computer via the G code. I
think that would really be a nice to automatically turn on the spindle
motor and set the speed via the program. So far I can heartily recommend
the Mitsubishi FR200E series inverters. BTW I have been told these
normally sell for around $800 but got mine New off ebay for a fraction
of that. It sure is nice not to have to change pulleys all the time.
Last I would like to know how to calculate the maximum safe speed that I
can run the spindle at. I would think that the 3500 RPM 50 Hz motor
would cause the spindle pulley to explode if run at 400 Hz.
Dan

Bubba

OLDER THAN DIRT
Country Bubba
(Actually the inventor of Country and Bubba)

axtein@...
LaGrange, GA

Dan,
I'm also running a Mitsubishi VFD but mine is the S500 series. Up
until just the other day, when I read a post from one of the list members, I
didn't realize it was possible to control speeds through the CNC driver.
That goes onto my list of functions when I design my system.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

About a year ago I bought am Mitsubishi VFD for $238 on ebay. It
came with a 190 page installation, setup and operation manual. I took a
look at it and indeed it was a really nice inverter that would take
single or three phase supply and would run the three phase motor on my
enco mill. Most important was that it allowed for external manual
control with a speed pot, Parameter Unit, (a fancy keypad and LCD
display for programming the unit) and for setting various parameters)
and last and most importantly it took a +5 analog signal from an
external source for PC control. Well. I finally got around to connecting
it to my machine. Wow! I am impressed. So far I am just using the
parameter unit for changing speeds. It works like a dream and runs the 3
phase motor much better than the Phase-o-matic inverter that I use to
use.
Most impressive is that you can program the acceleration and
deceleration rates of the motor. Before my spindle would take for ever
to coast to a stop. I would have to use the brake. Now I have it
programmed to stop in 4 seconds.
I am going to figure out how to use the analog signal from DeskwinNC to
turn on and off my VFD and set the speed from computer via the G code. I
think that would really be a nice to automatically turn on the spindle
motor and set the speed via the program. So far I can heartily recommend
the Mitsubishi FR200E series inverters. BTW I have been told these
normally sell for around $800 but got mine New off ebay for a fraction
of that. It sure is nice not to have to change pulleys all the time.
Last I would like to know how to calculate the maximum safe speed that I
can run the spindle at. I would think that the 3500 RPM 50 Hz motor
would cause the spindle pulley to explode if run at 400 Hz.
Dan

"mueller914" <mmueller@...> wrote:
Subject: Frustrated with "demo" CAM programs

I need a simple demo CAM program that'll let me make at least one
part before commiting to purchasing...

OneCNC is locking up on my computer, DesKAM keeps telling me I've
reached my limit (never used it or loaded it before tonight),
CAPSMill won't let me enter the password emailed to me from the
company...I'm going to give Vector a shot now, wish me luck.

[Good luck! DeskProto's demo will let you make parts for 30 days, and can be
downloaded directly off the site. It usually works very solidly- let me know
if you run into a problem.]

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com

"dodge1320" <motionin@...> wrote:
Subject: Millwizard software

Has anyone used the Millwizard 3d software from Delcam? The demo
version seems really easy to use, but would like to know if the full
version is worth the 250.00. Thanks! Rick

[I used to sell Millwizard (for $200) but I think it has been superseded in
that price range by some other programs that have come out since then-
DeskProto Lite and STLWork. While MillWizard is the easiest to use, it's
also painfully slow, and its functionality is very limited. I've still got a
copy if you want it, but I'd suggest taking a look at the alternatives
first. See www.deskproto.com and www.stlwork.com for working but
time-limited demos. ]

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com

[PS: Last I heard, PowerMill, DelCam's flagship product, cost 15,000 pounds
sterling.]

Hey all,
The caliper_stuff schematic has a diode backward going
from the input of the comparator to ground. The cathode
should be pointing to ground. This is an older schematic
I did awhile back. Also some versions of that code used
serial output to the PC and others parallel. It was a
case of 'I found out enough to get the job done, than
went on to other stuff'. If I can answer any questions,
let me know.
-Lee



--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Chris Baugher <cbaugher_yahoo@b...>
wrote:

Ok, I put a file in the files section that should help anyone who

wants to

use the SPC port on the imported digital calipers and scales.

The file is called "Caliper_stuff.zip"

under "Imported_Caliper_Info".

If anyone has any other questions about interfacing to these units

I would

be happy to help.

Have fun!

C|

On Sat, 26 Oct 2002, galt1x wrote:

I have 2 Mitutoyo Digimatic #982-537 displays that I would like

to use

with the cheap generic scales because of the application. I have

some info

on using Starett scales with Mitutoyo Displays but nothing on the

other.

Paul E. Killoy

Original Message -----
From: "Chris Baugher" <cbaugher_yahoo@b...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Has anyone built an SPC display

for Digimatic

scales?

When you say digimatic do you mean the Mitutoyo scales or the
cheap imported ones?

C|

On Fri, 25 Oct 2002, emotorwerks wrote:

I am looking around for info related to SPC and how to build

a remote

display. I haven't found much yet. Does anyone have

pictures,

plans, links, or ideas on how to do this?

Thanks,
Jamie


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there, for OT

subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY

POSTING THEM.

DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........

bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

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URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:

aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to

reach it if

you have trouble.

I consider this

to be a

sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are

there, for OT

subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY

POSTING THEM.

DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........

bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:

aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach
it if you have trouble.

I consider this

to be a sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members
are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY

POSTING THEM. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO
EXCEPTIONS........

bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 01:46:52 -0000
From: "kad2kam" <kad2kam@...>
Subject: Best benchtop 3D CNC milling machine

I'm looking to buy any used benchtop high speed cnc milling machine.
Main application would be to machine pastic and aluminium prototypes
but machining steel inserts would be a bonus. If someone got any
recomendation for best resource to find the used cnc machines and
which one is the best for that sort of work. of course budget is the
main issue. I looked Roland MDX-650 and VTX mill from defiance any
comments on these machines or if anyone selling these machines please
contact me. Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Kevin Smith
kad2kam@...

Hi Kevin;

[By "high speed", are you referring to the spindle speed, the feedrate, or
the whole process? True High Speed Machining really can only be done with a
very rigid and heavy Vertical Milling Centers- the kind that are enclosed in
a shower-stall type closet, so coolant can be blasted at the part without
making a big mess. They have very powerful spindles too- in the 5hp and up
range, and cost upwards of $50,000. Benchtop machines, much as I love them,
are not really in the same league.

The Roland MDX-650
is a nice
machine, with servo drives, but it's rather expensive at $23,995 (list,
although they currently offer a $500 rebate). It's rare to find a used one.
Flashcut has a comparable mill, the 8300,
which also has servo drive
and ballscrews, but is bigger and costs less ($16,995 list, but I can offer
a further discount). It would be great for the plastic and aluminum parts,
and would cut mild steel if you took it easy.]

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com

Ok, I put a file in the files section that should help anyone who wants to
use the SPC port on the imported digital calipers and scales.

The file is called "Caliper_stuff.zip" under "Imported_Caliper_Info".

If anyone has any other questions about interfacing to these units I would
be happy to help.

Have fun!

C|

Bill and others ,.. If a Cnc use is OT here,.. move it to
. Since My mill/router is
built and running I am most interested in the "how to use it" , from a
hobbyist point of view.

Unfortunately this large member base of knowledge is a great
temptation for posting any question with a hint of cnc use. You could
direct them to the above mentioned forum .
This should cut down on your high OT post traffic.

Frank