Good seeing this morning when this image was taken:
Brian Combs
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
I too use a rear focuser, from Starlight Instruments. Good construction, very sturdy but not entirely happy with the Focuser Boss motor drivers. The available settings are too fast for fine planetary focusing, I would like it to cycle back and forth the focus position using the hand paddle at a slower rate to be able to judge the focus point, but it's too fast so it overshoots too much most of the time. Alexei
Sorry I took so long to get back to you. Below is a link to my YouTube Channel. Once there you will see a short video showing my telescope setup. I use the Optic Gemini Rotatable Focuser. If you will notice in the very beginning point out and mention that still retain the ability to move the Mirror but do not use it as my primary means of focusing. ?
? This should answer your questions. I recommend Jeff at Optec for focusers and or Dean’s down at Starizona for Focusers. ? Gary ? US Precision Maker of the World Famous KISS Focuser? For @QSI and @SBIG OAG Guide Cameras ? 602-312-8797 ? garyjarrette@... ? ? Wow, I didn't even know that was an option. What kind of rear focuser do you recommend? ? I would think that most do not use the mirror to focus as much as rear focusers these days. I only use my mirror Focuser to center the mirror in the center the Rotator/Focusers range. Once done I lock it down. Haven't used the mirror in years.? Gary Jarrette
US Precision
18328 E Sunnybrook On
Gilbert, AZ 85298
Maker of the world famous
KISS Focuser? for QSI & SBIG Guide Cameras.
Sent from my LG V30 Phone
602-312-8797 ? On Tue, May 4, 2021, 7:29 AM George Anderson <gma2509@...> wrote: I think one backs the locks off (CCW) then focus then turn mirror locks CW until they contact the mirror slightly then recheck focus.? Yes?
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
Sorry I took so long to get back to you. Below is a link to my YouTube Channel. Once there you will see a short video showing my telescope setup. I use the Optic Gemini Rotatable Focuser. If you will notice in the very beginning point out and mention that still retain the ability to move the Mirror but do not use it as my primary means of focusing. ?
? This should answer your questions. I recommend Jeff at Optec for focusers and or Dean’s down at Starizona for Focusers. ? Gary ? US Precision Maker of the World Famous KISS Focuser? For @QSI and @SBIG OAG Guide Cameras ? 602-312-8797 ? garyjarrette@... ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Marshall, AA0FO Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 8:39 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [C14EdgeHD] EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars ? Wow, I didn't even know that was an option. What kind of rear focuser do you recommend? ? I would think that most do not use the mirror to focus as much as rear focusers these days. I only use my mirror Focuser to center the mirror in the center the Rotator/Focusers range. Once done I lock it down. Haven't used the mirror in years.? Gary Jarrette
US Precision
18328 E Sunnybrook On
Gilbert, AZ 85298
Maker of the world famous
KISS Focuser? for QSI & SBIG Guide Cameras.
Sent from my LG V30 Phone
602-312-8797 ? On Tue, May 4, 2021, 7:29 AM George Anderson <gma2509@...> wrote: I think one backs the locks off (CCW) then focus then turn mirror locks CW until they contact the mirror slightly then recheck focus.? Yes?
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars- mirror locks
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of
wecwell
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 4:01 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [C14EdgeHD] EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars- mirror locks
?
Hello George,
? The original C14 locks are designed for use during transport. The mirror is moved all the way back using the internal focuser, and the captive screws in the back are screwed in to hold the mirror from bouncing around. Some clever folks have invented mechanisms
to go into those locations to stabilize the mirror when it is in focus. I don't have those, I will let others tell of them.
The EdgeHD is different:
<>
-Charlie Lasnier
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars- mirror locks
Hello George,
? The original C14 locks are designed for use during transport. The mirror is moved all the way back using the internal focuser, and the captive screws in the back are screwed in to hold the mirror from bouncing around. Some clever folks have invented mechanisms to go into those locations to stabilize the mirror when it is in focus. I don't have those, I will let others tell of them.
The EdgeHD is different:
<丑迟迟辫蝉://飞飞飞.肠别濒别蝉迟谤辞苍.肠辞尘/产濒辞驳蝉/办苍辞飞濒别诲驳别产补蝉别/丑辞飞-诲辞-尘测-别诲驳别丑诲-尘颈谤谤辞谤-蝉耻辫辫辞谤迟-办苍辞产-蹿濒别虫颈产濒别-迟别苍蝉颈辞苍-肠濒耻迟肠丑别蝉-飞辞谤办-飞颈濒濒-迟丑别测-颈苍迟别谤蹿别谤别-飞颈迟丑-蹿辞肠耻蝉颈苍驳-尘测-蝉肠辞辫别#:词:迟别虫迟=罢丑别%20贰诲驳别贬顿%2014”%2颁%20濒颈办别%20辞濒诲别谤%20颁别濒别蝉迟谤辞苍%2014”%20迟耻产别蝉%2颁,测辞耻%20尘补测%20诲补尘补驳别%20别颈迟丑别谤%20迟丑别%20蹿辞肠耻蝉别谤%20辞谤%20尘颈谤谤辞谤.>
-Charlie Lasnier
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
I do the same now. Have a WO crayford.? I do try to set the mirror and lock it in mid of crayford range. I do it as I describe below.? I think it works.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of
Gary Jarrette
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 8:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [C14EdgeHD] EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
?
I would think that most do not use the mirror to focus as much as rear focusers these days. I only use my mirror Focuser to center the mirror in the center the Rotator/Focusers range. Once done I lock it down.
Haven't used the mirror in years.?
Gary Jarrette
US Precision
18328 E Sunnybrook On
Gilbert, AZ 85298
Maker of the world famous
KISS Focuser? for QSI & SBIG Guide Cameras.
Sent from my LG V30 Phone
602-312-8797
?
On Tue, May 4, 2021, 7:29 AM George Anderson <gma2509@...> wrote:
I think one backs the locks off (CCW) then focus then turn mirror locks CW until they contact the mirror slightly then recheck focus.? Yes?
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
Wow, I didn't even know that was an option. What kind of rear focuser do you recommend?
I would think that most do not use the mirror to focus as much as rear focusers these days. I only use my mirror Focuser to center the mirror in the center the Rotator/Focusers range. Once done I lock it down. Haven't used the mirror in years.? Gary Jarrette
US Precision
18328 E Sunnybrook On
Gilbert, AZ 85298
Maker of the world famous
KISS Focuser? for QSI & SBIG Guide Cameras.
Sent from my LG V30 Phone
602-312-8797
On Tue, May 4, 2021, 7:29 AM George Anderson < gma2509@...> wrote: I think one backs the locks off (CCW) then focus then turn mirror locks CW until they contact the mirror slightly then recheck focus.? Yes?
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
I would think that most do not use the mirror to focus as much as rear focusers these days. I only use my mirror Focuser to center the mirror in the center the Rotator/Focusers range. Once done I lock it down. Haven't used the mirror in years.? Gary Jarrette
US Precision
18328 E Sunnybrook On
Gilbert, AZ 85298
Maker of the world famous
KISS Focuser? for QSI & SBIG Guide Cameras.
Sent from my LG V30 Phone
602-312-8797
On Tue, May 4, 2021, 7:29 AM George Anderson < gma2509@...> wrote: I think one backs the locks off (CCW) then focus then turn mirror locks CW until they contact the mirror slightly then recheck focus.? Yes?
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
I think one backs the locks off (CCW) then focus then turn mirror locks CW until they contact the mirror slightly then recheck focus.? Yes?
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
I’ve always been a bit confused on how to use thos mirror locks. Can someone help a bit?
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of
Frank A via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 4:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [C14EdgeHD] EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
?
Christian,? ? no, just the mirror locks that are included with the C14.
Cheers & Clears
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
Not sure there are any houses left to buy in Arizona, the entire state of California is here now, they are leaving California by the millions. The housing market here is on fire. LOL LOL This not an exaggeration! The Cloud Cookoos have had enough. They are running away from $5.00+/gal petrol and taxes through the roof.. They are also ditching their electric cars. These are true fact news stories. Plywood sheets here now $90.00/sheet 2x4s 10 bucks each. Seriously Arizona great for Astronomy but light polution rising exponentially. My $40,000.oo observatory once on the out skirts of town 5 years ago now rendered almost useless because. I see hundreds of houses going up on my cycling route every day. On a vehicle ride THOUSANDS of new homes with associated light polution and a growing water shortage looming. My view to the North towards Phoenix like daylight. 20 years ago barely viable LP.? When I moved to my present location 20 years ago I moved to the outskirts of town for darkness and affordable property to build things like armature radio tower and observatory. My house in twenty years is going for four times what I paid. There are now bidding wars for houses. Like I said though a huge church and high school compleat with football, track, and soccer fields, and HUGE flood lights went in. The church has ACRES of lighted parking lots huge lights burning all night to my East. At Christmas time they display thousands of colored lights it looks like the? Auroraborealis from my observatory less than a quarter of of a mile away. Don't know how much longer it will be worth battling the Light Polution which is the dirty little secret of urban sprawl.
"In the beginning God created the HEAVENS and the Earth". Then his fowlers made the the Heavens and the planets un-seeable with the lights they put up Hypocrisy at its best. Go figure.
"The only thing that is constant is change" I think my serious astronomy days are over. To old to start over. The pigeons have moved in literally and figuratively. Ha ha ha! "To everything there is a season, to everything there is a time". I am running out of both!?
Gary Jarrette
US Precision
18328 E Sunnybrook On
Gilbert, AZ 85298
Maker of the world famous
KISS Focuser? for QSI & SBIG Guide Cameras.
Sent from my LG V30 Phone
602-312-8797
I just love the 10000lb pier Gary :)? Puts mine to shame, probably around five hundred lb I would guess, but it was built for a C11. It now supports my C14 and I get nice round stars (probably the autoguider working overtime to correct the concrete movement :) )
I recognise it's too insubstantial for the C14, so in my new observatory which is in a nice unobstructed site, my pier base consists of a one metre cube of concrete and a concrete pier on top with rebar in the pier and into the base. Nowhere near 10000 lb though....
Unfortunately for me in Wales U.K., it's not the equipment that's so much the problem as the persistent winter clouds and rain. Perhaps I should move to Tucson....
Paul
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
Christian,? ? no, just the mirror locks that are included with the C14.
Cheers & Clears
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
I don't know that the type of scope or focal ratio makes any difference. If your scope was able to image and track already using T - point should work fine.? T - point just refines the pointing. Once you generate a model have the choice of turning it on or off, same goes for ProTrack.? Gary Jarrette
US Precision
18328 E Sunnybrook On
Gilbert, AZ 85298
Maker of the world famous
KISS Focuser? for QSI & SBIG Guide Cameras.
Sent from my LG V30 Phone
602-312-8797
On Sun, May 2, 2021, 3:28 PM Ray Stann < raystann@...> wrote:
A
little off track here, but I have a question about the T-Point video, but it's
fairly important.? Charles Walker was simulating a C14.? Unless this
video is 10 years old, I assume he means an Edge HD14.? I also assume that
he's using the Celestron 0.7x focal reducer.? The C14 has a native FR of
f/11.? Now the question is: For me f/11 x 0.7 = f/7.7, but Charles is
saying f/7.? Which is correct?
?
Ray
I would like to add a
little bit to this conversation. I don’t know if you guys are using The Sky X
Pro or not but I do. If you haven’t used or are not using a T- Point Model I
recommend doing so. A model of at least (200) points minimum will work wonders
for your pointing. Even a model of 90 points will work wonders. After I started
using the T – Point feature in the Sky I never had an error in point to a star.
The thing runs totally automatically once you launch it and when done you can
see how close the pointing is with the scatter chart it generates. You just set
how much of the sky you want to map and hit start and watch the scope slew, take
photos, the plate solve and catalog your star positions. When done The Sky
generates a model that enhances your pointing
dramatically.
?
I have a 10,000 lb.
concrete pier that is about 8 foot tall. My observing deck is on the second
floor of my observatory. The base consists of a 4x4x4 foot square block of rebar
reinforced concrete buried in the ground with two round sections on top of that.
The first is 2 feet in dia and the second is 18 inches in dia.? On top of
that is a 4 foot steel tube pier fashioned after the Software Bisque Pier that
they sell. I made my own as I have a small machine shop and a MIG, TIG, Stick
welder which I used to manufacture the pier. So on top of that sits the
Paramount ME. A busy road is within 200 feet of my observatory and I have never
noticed any vibration.
?
I have not done a Polar
Alignment in over 3 years perhaps 4 but every time I launch The Sky and point to
a star and slew to it, it is there on the screen. If I think it is a little off
I just run another T – Point model and the Pointing error is almost zero.
Because of too many reasons to mention right now I have not imaged in over a
year but when I went to check the Pointing a couple of months ago it was so
close as to be negligible.
?
Like I said “eliminate
all the mechanical problems because they are the easiest to identify and to
rectify then worry about the ones associated with cameras, programming, and
configuration errors”.
?
I found this video by
Charles Walker who I believe is now retired from OPT to be the best and easiest
to understand. It is a step by step YouTube Video showing you how to run a T –
Point Model. I also suggest you down load it and keep it just in case it gets
taken down one day. If you don’t know how to download a YouTube Video I suggest
(4K Video Downloader) it is free and will down load 99.9% of all YouTube Videos
for safe keeping as well as videos from other Video web
sites.
?
“Creating T Points in
TheSkyX for Better Tracking with Charles Walker- OPT”
?
?
Periotic Error is
another thing that you can and must do to get better tracking because of the
eccentricity in your gear train that your mount has.
?
I put the thing you
must absolutely do in this order but usually not critical.
?
- Collimation is an
absolute must for round stars. If you collimation is not spot on your guide
stars will not be round nor will your image stars be.
- Polar
alignment.
- PEC Periodic Error
Correction. This corrects for the eccentricity in your gears both worm and
worm wheel. These are repeatable errors that can be tuned
out.
- T-Point
Model
- ProTrack to compensate for
mechanical problems with your mount such as scope axis not in line with mount
axis or flexure and many other mechanical issues that it detects and corrects
for.
- Turn on ProTrack
after you get a super model.
?
The above mentioned
things are a must for good pointing and tracking.
?
US
Precision
Maker of the
World Famous KISS Focuser?
For @QSI and
@SBIG OAG Guide Cameras
Over 400
?sold World Wide
?
602-312-8797
?
garyjarrette@...
?
?
Hello Roger!? Good to hear
of your success with the original dovetail bar.? Please understand, I don't
have an axe to grind concerning the orange noodle (ON) but my experience has
shown that it introduces unacceptable flexure.? This is what I found.?
Starting with very good polar alignment, I was not getting acceptable pointing
accuracy and plate solve errors were common.? I found that pointing was OK
in limited regions of the sky.? However, when I moved larger distances I
had trouble finding objects.? This was much pronounced when a meridian flip
was involved. When I replaced the original dovetail bar with a? heavy duty
one, I saw a significant improvement.? However, I felt that pointing could
be better and sought another solution.? After considering a number of
alternatives, it came down to two choices, the Software Bisque rings or a
Homeyer Cradle (HC).? I chose the HC. Of course, the HC is no longer
produced and used ones are seldom seen.? So, I built my own.? So far
pointing accuracy is excellent and I seldom have plate solution
errors.??
Best regards,
Frank
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
?
A
little off track here, but I have a question about the T-Point video, but it's
fairly important.? Charles Walker was simulating a C14.? Unless this
video is 10 years old, I assume he means an Edge HD14.? I also assume that
he's using the Celestron 0.7x focal reducer.? The C14 has a native FR of
f/11.? Now the question is: For me f/11 x 0.7 = f/7.7, but Charles is
saying f/7.? Which is correct?
?
Ray
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I would like to add a
little bit to this conversation. I don’t know if you guys are using The Sky X
Pro or not but I do. If you haven’t used or are not using a T- Point Model I
recommend doing so. A model of at least (200) points minimum will work wonders
for your pointing. Even a model of 90 points will work wonders. After I started
using the T – Point feature in the Sky I never had an error in point to a star.
The thing runs totally automatically once you launch it and when done you can
see how close the pointing is with the scatter chart it generates. You just set
how much of the sky you want to map and hit start and watch the scope slew, take
photos, the plate solve and catalog your star positions. When done The Sky
generates a model that enhances your pointing
dramatically.
?
I have a 10,000 lb.
concrete pier that is about 8 foot tall. My observing deck is on the second
floor of my observatory. The base consists of a 4x4x4 foot square block of rebar
reinforced concrete buried in the ground with two round sections on top of that.
The first is 2 feet in dia and the second is 18 inches in dia. ?On top of
that is a 4 foot steel tube pier fashioned after the Software Bisque Pier that
they sell. I made my own as I have a small machine shop and a MIG, TIG, Stick
welder which I used to manufacture the pier. So on top of that sits the
Paramount ME. A busy road is within 200 feet of my observatory and I have never
noticed any vibration.
?
I have not done a Polar
Alignment in over 3 years perhaps 4 but every time I launch The Sky and point to
a star and slew to it, it is there on the screen. If I think it is a little off
I just run another T – Point model and the Pointing error is almost zero.
Because of too many reasons to mention right now I have not imaged in over a
year but when I went to check the Pointing a couple of months ago it was so
close as to be negligible.
?
Like I said “eliminate
all the mechanical problems because they are the easiest to identify and to
rectify then worry about the ones associated with cameras, programming, and
configuration errors”.
?
I found this video by
Charles Walker who I believe is now retired from OPT to be the best and easiest
to understand. It is a step by step YouTube Video showing you how to run a T –
Point Model. I also suggest you down load it and keep it just in case it gets
taken down one day. If you don’t know how to download a YouTube Video I suggest
(4K Video Downloader) it is free and will down load 99.9% of all YouTube Videos
for safe keeping as well as videos from other Video web
sites.
?
“Creating T Points in
TheSkyX for Better Tracking with Charles Walker- OPT”
?
?
Periotic Error is
another thing that you can and must do to get better tracking because of the
eccentricity in your gear train that your mount has.
?
I put the thing you
must absolutely do in this order but usually not critical.
?
- Collimation is an
absolute must for round stars. If you collimation is not spot on your guide
stars will not be round nor will your image stars be.
- Polar
alignment.
- PEC Periodic Error
Correction. This corrects for the eccentricity in your gears both worm and
worm wheel. These are repeatable errors that can be tuned
out.
- T-Point
Model
- ProTrack to compensate for
mechanical problems with your mount such as scope axis not in line with mount
axis or flexure and many other mechanical issues that it detects and corrects
for.
- Turn on ProTrack
after you get a super model.
?
The above mentioned
things are a must for good pointing and tracking.
?
US
Precision
Maker of the
World Famous KISS Focuser?
For @QSI and
@SBIG OAG Guide Cameras
Over 400
?sold World Wide
?
602-312-8797
?
garyjarrette@...
?
?
Hello Roger!? Good to hear
of your success with the original dovetail bar.? Please understand, I don't
have an axe to grind concerning the orange noodle (ON) but my experience has
shown that it introduces unacceptable flexure.? This is what I found.?
Starting with very good polar alignment, I was not getting acceptable pointing
accuracy and plate solve errors were common.? I found that pointing was OK
in limited regions of the sky.? However, when I moved larger distances I
had trouble finding objects.? This was much pronounced when a meridian flip
was involved. When I replaced the original dovetail bar with a? heavy duty
one, I saw a significant improvement.? However, I felt that pointing could
be better and sought another solution.? After considering a number of
alternatives, it came down to two choices, the Software Bisque rings or a
Homeyer Cradle (HC).? I chose the HC. Of course, the HC is no longer
produced and used ones are seldom seen.? So, I built my own.? So far
pointing accuracy is excellent and I seldom have plate solution
errors.??
Best regards,
Frank
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
I just love the 10000lb pier Gary :)? Puts mine to shame, probably around five hundred lb I would guess, but it was built for a C11. It now supports my C14 and I get nice round stars (probably the autoguider working overtime to correct the concrete movement :) )
I recognise it's too insubstantial for the C14, so in my new observatory which is in a nice unobstructed site, my pier base consists of a one metre cube of concrete and a concrete pier on top with rebar in the pier and into the base. Nowhere near 10000 lb though....
Unfortunately for me in Wales U.K., it's not the equipment that's so much the problem as the persistent winter clouds and rain. Perhaps I should move to Tucson....
Paul
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
I would like to add a little bit to this conversation. I don’t know if you guys are using The Sky X Pro or not but I do. If you haven’t used or are not using a T- Point Model I recommend doing so. A model of at least (200) points minimum will work wonders for your pointing. Even a model of 90 points will work wonders. After I started using the T – Point feature in the Sky I never had an error in point to a star. The thing runs totally automatically once you launch it and when done you can see how close the pointing is with the scatter chart it generates. You just set how much of the sky you want to map and hit start and watch the scope slew, take photos, the plate solve and catalog your star positions. When done The Sky generates a model that enhances your pointing dramatically. ? I have a 10,000 lb. concrete pier that is about 8 foot tall. My observing deck is on the second floor of my observatory. The base consists of a 4x4x4 foot square block of rebar reinforced concrete buried in the ground with two round sections on top of that. The first is 2 feet in dia and the second is 18 inches in dia. ?On top of that is a 4 foot steel tube pier fashioned after the Software Bisque Pier that they sell. I made my own as I have a small machine shop and a MIG, TIG, Stick welder which I used to manufacture the pier. So on top of that sits the Paramount ME. A busy road is within 200 feet of my observatory and I have never noticed any vibration. ? I have not done a Polar Alignment in over 3 years perhaps 4 but every time I launch The Sky and point to a star and slew to it, it is there on the screen. If I think it is a little off I just run another T – Point model and the Pointing error is almost zero. Because of too many reasons to mention right now I have not imaged in over a year but when I went to check the Pointing a couple of months ago it was so close as to be negligible. ? Like I said “eliminate all the mechanical problems because they are the easiest to identify and to rectify then worry about the ones associated with cameras, programming, and configuration errors”. ? I found this video by Charles Walker who I believe is now retired from OPT to be the best and easiest to understand. It is a step by step YouTube Video showing you how to run a T – Point Model. I also suggest you down load it and keep it just in case it gets taken down one day. If you don’t know how to download a YouTube Video I suggest (4K Video Downloader) it is free and will down load 99.9% of all YouTube Videos for safe keeping as well as videos from other Video web sites. ? “Creating T Points in TheSkyX for Better Tracking with Charles Walker- OPT” ?
? Periotic Error is another thing that you can and must do to get better tracking because of the eccentricity in your gear train that your mount has. ? I put the thing you must absolutely do in this order but usually not critical. ? - Collimation is an absolute must for round stars. If you collimation is not spot on your guide stars will not be round nor will your image stars be.
- Polar alignment.
- PEC Periodic Error Correction. This corrects for the eccentricity in your gears both worm and worm wheel. These are repeatable errors that can be tuned out.
- T-Point Model
- ProTrack to compensate for mechanical problems with your mount such as scope axis not in line with mount axis or flexure and many other mechanical issues that it detects and corrects for.
- Turn on ProTrack after you get a super model.
? The above mentioned things are a must for good pointing and tracking. ? US Precision Maker of the World Famous KISS Focuser? For @QSI and @SBIG OAG Guide Cameras Over 400 ?sold World Wide ? 602-312-8797 ? garyjarrette@... ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Frank A via groups.io Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 11:50 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [C14EdgeHD] EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars ? Hello Roger!? Good to hear of your success with the original dovetail bar.? Please understand, I don't have an axe to grind concerning the orange noodle (ON) but my experience has shown that it introduces unacceptable flexure.? This is what I found.? Starting with very good polar alignment, I was not getting acceptable pointing accuracy and plate solve errors were common.? I found that pointing was OK in limited regions of the sky.? However, when I moved larger distances I had trouble finding objects.? This was much pronounced when a meridian flip was involved. When I replaced the original dovetail bar with a? heavy duty one, I saw a significant improvement.? However, I felt that pointing could be better and sought another solution.? After considering a number of alternatives, it came down to two choices, the Software Bisque rings or a Homeyer Cradle (HC).? I chose the HC. Of course, the HC is no longer produced and used ones are seldom seen.? So, I built my own.? So far pointing accuracy is excellent and I seldom have plate solution errors.??
Best regards,
Frank
|
Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
Hello Frank,
Do you have any device (pins) to block the primary mirror in
order to avoid tilt ?
Best regards
Christian
Le 02/05/2021 à 18:49, Frank A via
groups.io a écrit?:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello Roger!? Good to hear of your success with the original
dovetail bar.? Please understand, I don't have an axe to grind
concerning the orange noodle (ON) but my experience has shown that
it introduces unacceptable flexure.? This is what I found.?
Starting with very good polar alignment, I was not getting
acceptable pointing accuracy and plate solve errors were common.?
I found that pointing was OK in limited regions of the sky.?
However, when I moved larger distances I had trouble finding
objects.? This was much pronounced when a meridian flip was
involved. When I replaced the original dovetail bar with a? heavy
duty one, I saw a significant improvement.? However, I felt that
pointing could be better and sought another solution.? After
considering a number of alternatives, it came down to two choices,
the Software Bisque rings or a Homeyer Cradle (HC).? I chose the
HC. Of course, the HC is no longer produced and used ones are
seldom seen.? So, I built my own.? So far pointing accuracy is
excellent and I seldom have plate solution errors.??
Best regards,
Frank
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Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
Hello Roger!? Good to hear of your success with the original dovetail bar.? Please understand, I don't have an axe to grind concerning the orange noodle (ON) but my experience has shown that it introduces unacceptable flexure.? This is what I found.? Starting with very good polar alignment, I was not getting acceptable pointing accuracy and plate solve errors were common.? I found that pointing was OK in limited regions of the sky.? However, when I moved larger distances I had trouble finding objects.? This was much pronounced when a meridian flip was involved. When I replaced the original dovetail bar with a? heavy duty one, I saw a significant improvement.? However, I felt that pointing could be better and sought another solution.? After considering a number of alternatives, it came down to two choices, the Software Bisque rings or a Homeyer Cradle (HC).? I chose the HC. Of course, the HC is no longer produced and used ones are seldom seen.? So, I built my own.? So far pointing accuracy is excellent and I seldom have plate solution errors.??
Best regards,
Frank
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Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
Hello all. My first intervention in this group.
I am the proud owner of a Edge HD14 since 2011. It is currently mounted on a Paramount MX+ because I tried for 7 years to tame the infamous CGE Pro for astrophotography, and I lost. I am now in heavens with my new mount. Not in the same class. And yes, it is
still mounted on the original dovetail.
I must say I am very puzzled by the statements about the "orange noodle". I am currently producing quite acceptable quality astrophotos, contributing to the Kilonova Catcher program for potential optical counterparts of gravitational waves, contributing to
the ExoClock project for the timing of exoplanet transits, etc. All this to say that I am doing science work with the "orange noodle" and I am wondering what I am missing here. If the original dovetail is causing problems, I am simply unaware of them. My astrophotography
sessions usually involve 6-minutes subs in broadband and 10-minutes subs in narrowband without autoguiding. 10 minutes is about the limit where I begin to see elongated stars. I just installed an Optec FastFocus and am in the process of installing the ONAG
system from Innovations Foresight, just waiting for some parts. This will enable me to autoguide efficiently as well as continuous autofocusing.
What more could I acomplish with an upgraded craddle and what problem should I be looking for that I don't seem to detect at this time? This is not a critic of your post, just a need for clarification from my part.
Thank you.
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Re: EdgeHD C14 with rings or Two dovetail bars
Hello guys!
Further to Gary Jarrette's comments above and my opinion only, if you own or plan to own a C14, you have invested in Celestron's flagship telescope!? This scope, along with the proper accessories , including a quality mount, is capable of serious astronomical scientific research including imaging, spectroscopy, etc.? These capabilities are well documented, and members of this group are aware of this and more.?
The Orange Noodle
Why Celestron continues to supply the cheap orange dovetail bar with these marvelous scopes is beyond my understanding.? You only have to look closely at the design to realize that these bars are cheap aluminum extrusions ( not machined) with the rigidity of a wet noodle. To make matters worse the C14 comes from the factory with the orange noodle already? fastened to the tube end castings with fairly light weight screws.? So, if you want to mount your $6000. scope on a $5 hunk of aluminum, go ahead.? Now ad another 20 - 30 lbs of imaging equipment worth thousands and you have placed yourself in real jeopardy.? Really though, the orange dovetail belongs in the bin.??
Now, if you own a C14 and never plan to do anything but observe through the eyepiece, which alone is a real joy, you might get away with the orange noodle, but I wouldn't do it.? Instead, purchase a good quality dovetail bar and and saddle, and enjoy your C14 with confidence.
Cheers & Clears,
Frank
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Marshall, AA?FO
Frank A
Roger Menard