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Going like a herd of turtles, but made a little progress during lunch today, and this afternoon. Building up the chassis, measuring for the raduino, and punching a few holes has been the order of the day. I am planning to go with no mods to make sure all works, then add from there. At this point, I'm just hoping to avoid a mess up on the hole for the display. I have the W8TEE TFT vfo built and powered up already. I'm thinking about building 2 complete changeable front panels, but it may be easier to order a 2nd bitx.?  
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Good to see a new radio being put on the air and it looks like you are on the way to do just that. As you probably know just go slow with the cutout for the display and bring the cuts in with a file. I was able to make a very clean cutout but it took a long time with the old file. I just wish that I had made the radio chassis a little bigger. Once you start modifying the rig you will want to add more features and in my case I really don't have enough panel room to add more switches and so on. With Jack's arduino/display you probably won't need much more to add to the front.? Good luck and hope all works fine for you. Dale 73's
On Mon, Aug 7, 2017 at 8:46 PM, RCC WB5YYM <curtis03@...> wrote: Going like a herd of turtles, but made a little progress during lunch today, and this afternoon. Building up the chassis, measuring for the raduino, and punching a few holes has been the order of the day. I am planning to go with no mods to make sure all works, then add from there. At this point, I'm just hoping to avoid a mess up on the hole for the display. I have the W8TEE TFT vfo built and powered up already. I'm thinking about building 2 complete changeable front panels, but it may be easier to order a 2nd bitx.?
 
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Worked late today, so very little progress. Still drilling, filing, and sawing. It does look a "bit" more like a radio, but only checking for fit at this point, so all will need be removed. Serial 719 is fits pretty good in the box. I turned it around about a 1/2 dozen times trying to figure out which side would be best toward the front, and it finally stopped with the tuning leads forward. I hope this is best. The tuning knob, and 10 turn pot is fitting well. The display...well, just a little too late in the day and too tired to start cutting the hole for that.? 
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Randell WB5YYM wrote... Still drilling, filing, and sawing. It does look
a "bit" more like a radio... Looking good! I can see this isn't your first radio or first time at drilling and cutting metal. It had been a while since I had built anything, and it didn't really feel like it was started until I started drilling and cutting holes in the case. Is that a geared drive connected to the 10-turn pot? I don't think orientation of the board will make a lot of difference, but I went with the heat-sink towards the back. I think that and the way you have it are the only real choices to keep the connection to the antenna short inside the case. Its always nice watching everyone's progress towards a working radio, so keep the pics coming! -- 73 Keith VE7GDH
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Kieth, the knob is not geared, but does have anti-backlash "stuff" on the inside. It is weighted and has a really nice feel. I am trying to add a stem for turning, by drilling and tapping a 4-40 hole in the front of the knob?and adding a machine screw with at stand off that will spin freely. You can see the start of that just over the front. I don't have a lot of?experience building, but it sure is fun trying. I can definitely drill and saw better than I can do the electronics side. This little rig will go beside the station that is in the picture on QRZ. Hopefully it will match the other rig and amp when I am finished. The front panels will be really similar, just a few switches and push buttons different.
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Don't you enjoy the facial expression of the clerk in the plumbing department as you try to explain you are working on a microphone. I think this will do just fine. I may leave the plumbing in its original color and markings just for a conversation starter.  As you can see in the back ground, I finally got brave enough to cut on that rectangle. A little touch up with a file is still needed. Here is a closer picture.  Getting ready to drill the hole for the volume control. Rather than use the pot for the volume control, I was thinking about using the tuning pot for the volume since the shaft matches the size knobs I have. I suppose the only difference is audio taper vs linear taper??
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Good looking mic. Now you just need one of them foam balls on the end of it.
Vince.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Don't you enjoy the facial expression of the clerk in the plumbing
department as you try to explain you are working on a microphone. I think
this will do just fine. I may leave the plumbing in its original color and
markings just for a conversation starter.
As you can see in the back ground, I finally got brave enough to cut on
that rectangle. A little touch up with a file is still needed. Here is a
closer picture.
Getting ready to drill the hole for the volume control. Rather than use
the pot for the volume control, I was thinking about using the tuning pot
for the volume since the shaft matches the size knobs I have. I suppose
the only difference is audio taper vs linear taper?
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
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google magic sponge balls and head off to the local trck shop.They come on a variety of colors...
On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 7:08 AM, Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> wrote:
Good looking mic.? Now you just need one of them foam balls on the end of it.
Vince.
> Don't you enjoy the facial expression of the clerk in the plumbing
> department as you try to explain you are working on a microphone. I think
> this will do just fine. I may leave the plumbing in its original color and
> markings just for a conversation starter.
>
> As you can see in the back ground, I finally got brave enough to cut on
> that rectangle. A little touch up with a file is still needed. Here is a
> closer picture.
>
> Getting ready to drill the hole for the volume control. Rather than use
> the pot for the volume control, I was thinking about using the tuning pot
> for the volume since the shaft matches the size knobs I have. I suppose
> the only difference is audio taper vs linear taper?
>
--
? ?Michigan VHF Corp.? ?? ?
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
-- Paul Mateer, AA9GG
Elan Engineering Corp.
NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628
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That is an excellent idea. I'm sparing no expense and I've already ordered with an expected arrive date of the 15th. I could have got the 25 cent ones, but I sprung for the 50 cent deluxe version. ?
No progress this afternoon except for the windscreen order. Checked the local lake for a fresh fish dinner after work.?
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Thanks Vince, for the windscreen idea. I think it is those little extras that really make a difference. I added some switches today. After I had put everything back together, I realized I may need two push buttons, one for function and one for spot. Back panel is next.?  
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Wish I had the resources to build a nice case like that!? FANTASTIC JOB OM!!!!!
On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 9:08 PM, RCC WB5YYM <curtis03@...> wrote: Thanks Vince, for the windscreen idea. I think it is those little extras that really make a difference. I added some switches today. After I had put everything back together, I realized I may need two push buttons, one for function and one for spot. Back panel is next.?
 
-- Paul Mateer, AA9GG
Elan Engineering Corp.
NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628
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Very nice job. Its quite easy to make a similar case. As you can see all you have to do is to cut the pieces correctly at 90 degree angles, use aluminium angle to either bolt or use pop rivets to fix them to the bottom plate and do likewise to the other sides and back.
You can then use the sane method to hold the corners of the vertical sides and then use again angle aluminium on the top of the side panels to bolt the top.? For the top you can use self-tapping screws but a more suitable would be permanent nuts attached to the top angle aluminium because the self tapping screws will become.loose in the holes if much unscrewing for servicing and experimentation is required. A nicer solution would be to fit a hinge to the back panel and the top could be hinged for easier maintenance. Regards Lawrence
On Sat, Aug 12, 2017 at 7:28 AM, AA9GG <paul.aa9gg@...> wrote: Wish I had the resources to build a nice case like that!? FANTASTIC JOB OM!!!!!
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I do recommend adding a momentary switch for SPOT even if you only operate SSB, as holding it will put the rig
into Fine Tune mode on SSB using Allard’s sketch. You might also consider adding a third switch for TUNE (wired in
parallel with the CW key jack).
BTW I had a recent CW sked with a friend and I used my BITX40. He made a digital recording and emailed a clip to me.
I am pleasantly surprised at how good the BITX40 sounds on CW. The keying is a little bit hard but not
objectionable. The tone is very good with no clicks or chirps and I am not hearing any clipping of the first code element
in the audio recording. It really sounds quite nice.
As I mentioned in a previous post, I integrated a SOTABEams Laserbeam DSP audio filter module (~$US30) into
my rig which gives me a 2.4 kHz WIDE setting and a 300 hz NARROW setting and it drastically improves CW
reception on a busy band, while only adding 30ma to the current draw.
Cheers
Michael VE3WMB
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In this area near Seattle there is a chain of metal supply shops called Metal Supermarkets. They specialize in cutting small quantity, small sized pieces at very reasonable prices. The guys at the shop I use have no trouble holding 0.015" tolerances or better.
PJH, N7PXY
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All the cutting on the case was done with a hack saw, dremel tool, and file. When the top needs to be bent. I will do it by and also. It just takes time, patience, and just a little sweat. The sheet metal is out of a fairly thin metal sign.
I worked on the back panel late last night, and today, I worked on the "accessory" board. Again, the hack saw, dremel tool, and file was needed. The bottom board is actually 2 boards that I cut to the right size and trimmed. The bottom board has all the pins tied together in rows, the same direction as the black marks I drew on it. The black marks will be the ground rows. The 2nd row of pins will be regulated 12 v, the 4th row will be a regulated 5v, and the 6th row will be a variable regulated voltage and will be color coded as soon as I can obtain more Sharpies of different colors. These voltages will come from the board that you see already plugged in. It will be populated with the parts from Jacks/W8TEE regulator board and tie to the first six pins. The rest of the board will be common I/O points. I think (I am no engineer, and thinking often gets me in trouble), that this should allow me, with proper construction of my additional plug in boards, to plug any accessory board, in any "slot".
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Curtis,
Very nice and well done. Much can be accomplished with simple hand
tools, patience and practice. In my workshop my favourite tools are
my Wilton vise mounted on a very sturdy workbench, a drawer full of
files of various shapes, sizes, and cuts some of which belonged to
my father and are more than 50 years old. I go through quite a bit
of chalk every year - for those not familiar, putting chalk on your
files helps keep the swarf out when in use so that they cut better
and helps keep the files from rusting when not in use.
Not to mention hacksaw, jewellers saw, coping saw, and hand drill. I
do have an old woodworking bandsaw that I converted to light duty
metal work which makes working with large sheets of metal a bit
easier.
I do like your idea for the "accessory" board. I have done similar
things but not quite so large. I found the over hand caused by the
90 degree header a bit much so I sometimes pull the pins out of the
plastic piece which aligns them and temporary put it on the longer
pins to align the pins while I solder the shorter pins to the
"accessory" board and then remove the plastic. This way the 90 bend
part of the pins don't extend too far above the board and reduce the
lever effect a bit.
cheers, Graham ve3gtc
On 2017-08-12 17:28, RCC WB5YYM wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
All the cutting on the case was done with a hack saw,
dremel tool, and file. When the top needs to be bent. I will do it
by and also. It just takes time, patience, and just a little
sweat. The sheet metal is out of a fairly thin metal sign.
I worked on the back panel late last night, and today, I worked on
the "accessory" board. Again, the hack saw, dremel tool, and file
was needed. The bottom board is actually 2 boards that I cut to
the right size and trimmed. The bottom board has all the pins tied
together in rows, the same direction as the black marks I drew on
it. The black marks will be the ground rows. The 2nd row of pins
will be regulated 12 v, the 4th row will be a regulated 5v, and
the 6th row will be a variable regulated voltage and will be color
coded as soon as I can obtain more Sharpies of different colors.
These voltages will come from the board that you see already
plugged in. It will be populated with the parts from Jacks/W8TEE
regulator board and tie to the first six pins. The rest of the
board will be common I/O points. I think (I am no engineer, and
thinking often gets me in trouble), that this should allow me,
with proper construction of my additional plug in boards, to plug
any accessory board, in any "slot".
_._,_._,_
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Thanks for the comments Graham. I see what you are talking about on the leverage from the offset pins, but I didn't think about a fix. Most of the circuits, including the power distribution board will not need to be that tall, so I could reduce some leverage by making them shorter. On the board shown, I am planning to mount the components on the offset side, so that will help some.?
It is certainly a joy to take those hand tools and go to work and see what comes out. I have already made several mistakes on this project (most of them coming in the form of posts with misspelling, and other grammatical errors), but the great thing is that I can back up and try again. The ideas that have been passed along, and encouragement in the above posts are invaluable.
Thanks.
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Vince, I hope you are happy now. This could be the coolest mod on the rig. Thank you much for the idea. Looks like the keying bar I found is a little big, so I will keep looking.  A little more progress on the back panel and power distribution board. ?I managed to blow both the 5v and 12v regulator by only putting screws in the closest 2 standoffs while "testing". This let the loose standoff on the other side ground out the 2 outputs. The 5v regulator made a really nice bang when it went off with some really nice smoke and odor. I was extremely disappointed with the failure of the 12v regulator which quietly quit doing its job and just started outputting 2.5 volts with no fanfare at all. The back panel is getting closer. I've taken the 3 amp Diode for polarity protection out twice. I'm dropping a couple tenths of voltage with it in line so I am in a Diode Dilemma. To D or not to D is the question? I think I will put it back in...I added a current sense point with a 2 pin jumper to bypass. The convenience may come in handy, plus those two connectors were taking up way to much room in the junk box. ? The back panel  ?
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Randall, I have been following your progress from afar. Just out of curiosity, what is the homebrew rig behind your BITX40?
Al, N8WQ n8wq.com
On Tue, 15 Aug 2017 18:52:13 -0400, RCC WB5YYM <curtis03@...> wrote:
Vince, I hope you are happy now. This could be the coolest mod on the rig. Thank you much for the idea. Looks like the keying bar I found is a little big, so I will keep looking.
A little more progress on the back panel and power distribution board. ?I managed to blow both the 5v and 12v regulator by only putting screws in the closest 2 standoffs while "testing". This let the loose standoff on the other side ground out the 2 outputs. The 5v regulator made a really nice bang when it went off with some really nice smoke and odor. I was extremely disappointed with the failure of the 12v regulator which quietly quit doing its job and just started outputting 2.5 volts with no fanfare at all.
The back panel is getting closer. I've taken the 3 amp Diode for polarity protection out twice. I'm dropping a couple tenths of voltage with it in line so I am in a Diode Dilemma. To D or not to D is the question? I think I will put it back in...I added a current sense point with a 2 pin jumper to bypass. The convenience may come in handy, plus those two connectors were taking up way to much room in the junk box. ?
The back panel
 ?
-- Using Opera's mail client:
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AA9GG
