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Re: New bitx40 build.


Graham
 

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Curtis,

Very nice and well done. Much can be accomplished with simple hand tools, patience and practice. In my workshop my favourite tools are my Wilton vise mounted on a very sturdy workbench, a drawer full of files of various shapes, sizes, and cuts some of which belonged to my father and are more than 50 years old. I go through quite a bit of chalk every year - for those not familiar, putting chalk on your files helps keep the swarf out when in use so that they cut better and helps keep the files from rusting when not in use.

Not to mention hacksaw, jewellers saw, coping saw, and hand drill. I do have an old woodworking bandsaw that I converted to light duty metal work which makes working with large sheets of metal a bit easier.

I do like your idea for the "accessory" board. I have done similar things but not quite so large. I found the over hand caused by the 90 degree header a bit much so I sometimes pull the pins out of the plastic piece which aligns them and temporary put it on the longer pins to align the pins while I solder the shorter pins to the "accessory" board and then remove the plastic. This way the 90 bend part of the pins don't extend too far above the board and reduce the lever effect a bit.

cheers, Graham ve3gtc


On 2017-08-12 17:28, RCC WB5YYM wrote:

All the cutting on the case was done with a hack saw, dremel tool, and file. When the top needs to be bent. I will do it by and also. It just takes time, patience, and just a little sweat. The sheet metal is out of a fairly thin metal sign.

I worked on the back panel late last night, and today, I worked on the "accessory" board. Again, the hack saw, dremel tool, and file was needed. The bottom board is actually 2 boards that I cut to the right size and trimmed. The bottom board has all the pins tied together in rows, the same direction as the black marks I drew on it. The black marks will be the ground rows. The 2nd row of pins will be regulated 12 v, the 4th row will be a regulated 5v, and the 6th row will be a variable regulated voltage and will be color coded as soon as I can obtain more Sharpies of different colors. These voltages will come from the board that you see already plugged in. It will be populated with the parts from Jacks/W8TEE regulator board and tie to the first six pins. The rest of the board will be common I/O points. I think (I am no engineer, and thinking often gets me in trouble), that this should allow me, with proper construction of my additional plug in boards, to plug any accessory board, in any "slot".
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