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On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 09:51 pm, Dexter N Muir wrote:
Don't even think of trying to *pull* a wire out of that crimp
My comment "you will break the wire before you can pull it out of a terminal" was to say how well the molex crimp tool secured the wire, both the insulation and bare wire crimp are very tight to the point that 28 gauge wire will break before the crimp fails, as designed. The reason for the expensive tools is simple, they crimp the wire as designed, no solder or no heatshrink tubing is needed, there is reason they call these connectors crimp connectors. On the KF2510 type connectors it is easy to remove a pin from the housing with a pin removal tool. On the issue of this type of connector: Molex? ?which is not the same as the connectors used in the BitX40, the KF2510, it is a clone of the Molex KK series, there is currently a >1,000 listing for them on Ebay.?The KR2540? https://goo.gl/Uxdcvm?KLS1-2.54? ?are all clones of the molex KK series. ?They all work but if you are going to build cables get a decent crimping tool and learn how to crimp the wire correctly that way there is no need to 'solder or heatshrink' a cable.
For dressing wire runs you need "Wire Cable Sleeving Sheathing" search that term??and the sheathing that has white lines is 'Flame Retardant' and produces non toxic fumes, that is used in aircraft?https://goo.gl/ccs8Zb. ??
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If you want to try a nice alternative to traditional heat shrink, check out the "Liquid Tape" sold by Lowes, Home Depot, and others. A four ounce bottle with brush applicator is only a few dollars at Lowes, and good for hundreds of applications. Basically, it is liquid rubber that you brush onto a bare wire, and within a minute or so it dries enough to continue with your work, and after an hour is completely dry. You can add multiple coats if you want really thick insulation. Marvelous stuff, exceptionally easy to use, and a lifesaver when you need to cover up an odd-shaped surface, or a connection that will not accept the normal sleeve-type heat shrink. And best of all, no heat is necessary. Just Google liquid tape, or liquid electrical tape.
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You're usually better off buying from their website rather than their ebay
store. www.taydaelectronics.com
Vince.
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On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 01:25 pm, Thomas Noel wrote:
Ion?€?s link to Tayda helped the most. Tayda has an Ebay store.
??
Still have to wait for LONG shipping delay.
Tayda ships most things from Colorado. I get stuff??from them within a
week here in NJ.
??
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John - WA2FZW
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Michigan VHF Corp.
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On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 01:25 pm, Thomas Noel wrote:
Ion¡¯s link to Tayda helped the most. Tayda has an Ebay store.
?
Still have to wait for LONG shipping delay.
Tayda ships most things from Colorado. I get stuff?from them within a week here in NJ. ? -- John - WA2FZW
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Don't even think of trying to *pull* a wire out of that crimp! I have success UNcrimping with judicious use of small side-cutters, approaching the crimp along the wire's path into the crimp, while gripping the blade at the other end (either before or after the major bend) with similar-scale needle-nose pliers. There is room in the housing for the un-crimped blade with soldered-in wire of similar or marginally larger scale. Be very careful of the locking 'tab' - it only lasts a few times pushed down, but can be eased down enough with the likes of a small 'jeweller's' screwdriver to extract the blade without completely flattening it. The better alternative might be to leave 5-10mm of wire in place (not too little, and likewise don't think of just soldering on your wire after cutting the old one off - it's even messier if the plastic jacket of the remnant melts!) and splice on your desired wire with a heat-shrink tube to insulate. I'd do that *if* I could find the small stock of heat-shrink I have. Marvellous stuff, that heat-shrink! Back in the dim dark past there was Hellermann sleeving, with a special 3-prong plier to expand it. We called it 'Helluva sleeving'!
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I have three of the hand crimp tools from Molex and at $350 each a $50 tool would be a joy to purchase. The Molex tools are for government level work, you will break the wire before you can pull it out of a terminal. Each crimp takes just seconds and when you're done the terminal slides into the housing without issues. I just ordered some KF2510 connectors to see if the Molex tool has any issues...
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Pete N6QW has a full "how to get the BITX on the air" series that includes links for the keyed connectors. Main page: ? Wiring is in Phase 4: ? Connector links at Digikey 2-pin socket:? 2-pid header:? Pins:?
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Roy, They are like the ones used in so many different modules. They usually come in 40 pin versions although there are also 20 pin versions.? You can use a small hacksaw or a sharp knife to cut off as many as you need (females) You can do the same and also use a side cutters for the male ones. You can solder the wires to the pins and slide a sleeve over each pin to prevent any shorts between the pins and also give mechanical strength to the soldering. If you have double rows like the ones that you can see in one of the photos you can either leave them as two separate ones or even glue them together using a two tube epoxy resin. You can mark one end of the plug and socket with a dot of paint to make sure that if it is removed it is put back correctly. Regards Lawrence
On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 4:30 PM, Roy Appleton <twelveoclockhigh@...> wrote: Do you have any photos of the connectors you're talking about?
Roy WA0YMH
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Wafer Connectors (mounts on the board, has a 'key' so housing is always connected correct orientation)
...and Pin Housings (holds the pins, terminates your wire(s))
Crimp Pins (down at the bottom) arrive in a small reel.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/serie-2500-2-54mm.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/serie-2500-2-54mm.html
Tayda usually fulfills FROM USA addresses, so it's not the usual 4-week wait from China (more now that it's 'New Year Holiday' week).
You don't need that (very nice, and I'm sure works perfectly) PA-09 (although it's cheaper on Amazon or others). Since we're not doing 'industrial quantities', but only onesies and 3-sies - you can crimp 'em fine with a small Xcelite needle-nose pliers. I usually crimp the wire, put just a tiny dot of solder to hold it in place, and after cooling, crimp the wire in place. Works a TREAT every friggin time. Mike Y, KM5Z
Dallas, Texas
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Do you have any photos of the connectors you're talking about?
Roy WA0YMH
On Feb 2, 2017 1:08 AM, "Lawrence Galea" < 9h1avlaw@...> wrote: You can use the snap off connectors. Snap off as much as you require, solder the wires and slip a piece of sleeve over the connections. Lawrence
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You can use the snap off connectors. Snap off as much as you require, solder the wires and slip a piece of sleeve over the connections. Lawrence
On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 7:38 AM, Thomas Noel <tnoel@...> wrote: HA HA!? I started this thread and just today noticed the typo in the Subject: line.
I just want you to know my board is quite happy, as am I. That is meant to say Bitx40 SMD board.
On Feb 1, 2017, at 4:05 PM, Steve Robertson < bobs_otr@...> wrote:
In a pinch you can solder them, then I didn't crimp the wings that normally crimp on the wire, they aren't that tall so they'll fit in the housing and if it's a good solder joint there's no reason to crimp them.? Then you can use needle nose to crimp the upper one that grabs on to the wire jacket.? I found it helped to clip a little of those upper wings off.? The crimpers are faster, but soldering works in a pinch for just a few wires.
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HA HA! ?I started this thread and just today noticed the typo in the Subject: line.
I just want you to know my board is quite happy, as am I. That is meant to say Bitx40 SMD board.
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On Feb 1, 2017, at 4:05 PM, Steve Robertson < bobs_otr@...> wrote:
In a pinch you can solder them, then I didn't crimp the wings that normally crimp on the wire, they aren't that tall so they'll fit in the housing and if it's a good solder joint there's no reason to crimp them.? Then you can use needle nose to crimp the upper one that grabs on to the wire jacket.? I found it helped to clip a little of those upper wings off.? The crimpers are faster, but soldering works in a pinch for just a few wires.
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In a pinch you can solder them, then I didn't crimp the wings that normally crimp on the wire, they aren't that tall so they'll fit in the housing and if it's a good solder joint there's no reason to crimp them.? Then you can use needle nose to crimp the upper one that grabs on to the wire jacket.? I found it helped to clip a little of those upper wings off.? The crimpers are faster, but soldering works in a pinch for just a few wires.
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Hi
I see that Adafruit sells the PA-09 crimper.
If you watch either Adafruit's Ask An Engineer or Show and Tell shows, they will show a 10% discount code. These shows are live on YouTube, Show and Tell at 7:30 EST and Ask An Engineer at 8:00 EST. Tonight and every Wednesday. The discount is only good until midnight. If you miss it, wait until next week for the next discount code.
10% isn't a huge amount. But, it helps.
Happy crimping. I should probably get a crimper. I have lots of headers and pins on order from Tayda.
Randy, K7AGE
On Wed, Feb 1, 2017 at 9:45 AM, Steve Robertson <bobs_otr@...> wrote: LOL!? I'm with you Roy!? I thought it was ridiculous too!? Heck, I didn't even want to pay for Chinese ones, so I tried crimping them with needle nose pliers first (instructions are out on the net for that...how hard could it be, right?), but I'm low vision and that was waaay too hard.? Then I ponied up for the Chinese crimpers and spent a couple frustrating nights trying to use them.? Doing research on what I was doing wrong, I found out I wasn't doing anything wrong - no one was having much success with them!? EVERYONE was recommending the PA-09s.? I finally just sucked it up and plunked my money down.? Sometimes there is just no choice, and this is one of them.
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LOL!? I'm with you Roy!? I thought it was ridiculous too!? Heck, I didn't even want to pay for Chinese ones, so I tried crimping them with needle nose pliers first (instructions are out on the net for that...how hard could it be, right?), but I'm low vision and that was waaay too hard.? Then I ponied up for the Chinese crimpers and spent a couple frustrating nights trying to use them.? Doing research on what I was doing wrong, I found out I wasn't doing anything wrong - no one was having much success with them!? EVERYONE was recommending the PA-09s.? I finally just sucked it up and plunked my money down.? Sometimes there is just no choice, and this is one of them.
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After trying and wasting money on other crimps and dies I wish I spend the 50 the first time. They're still a long shot cheaper then OEM molex crimps.
If you feel you'll need them again for future work and future projects buy once cry once. If not you may be able to find a maker group that have them.
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This is a genuine question and not sarcasm, is 50 bucks a good price for a simple hand crimper? I was shocked when I saw the price.
Roy WA0YMH
On Feb 1, 2017 7:50 AM, < KD2BBW@...> wrote: The PA-09 crimps mentioned above are PRICELESS for these connectors. I tried a cheap pair of cheaper crimps and they were garbage. I highly suggest the pa-09. I picked mine up from adafruit a long with some 10k pots and ok looking knobs for cheap. Getting the crimps from adafruit were really fast because of where I live but I suspect that they'd ship anywhere in the lower 50 faster than anyone in china could get them to me at roughly the same price.
Here's my setup for crimping these connectors:
PA-09 crimps: Dupont connectors: 2 pin housing: 3 pin housing:
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The PA-09 crimps mentioned above are PRICELESS for these connectors. I tried a cheap pair of cheaper crimps and they were garbage. I highly suggest the pa-09. I picked mine up from adafruit a long with some 10k pots and ok looking knobs for cheap. Getting the crimps from adafruit were really fast because of where I live but I suspect that they'd ship anywhere in the lower 50 faster than anyone in china could get them to me at roughly the same price.
Here's my setup for crimping these connectors:
PA-09 crimps: Dupont connectors: 2 pin housing: 3 pin housing:
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I've had good luck with Tayda. Their deliveries are much faster than China. Someone told me they have a distribution warehouse in the US, but I don't know that for sure.
Jack, W8TEE
From: Mark W <K3MRK1@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2017 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] 2 and 3 pin connectors used with Bitx40 sad board
Missed the 2nd link. Same company. ? ? I found this shop very reliable. or On ebay there are no shipping fees.
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Ion VA3NOI
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Kevin
