Thanks Doug! And thank you for notifying me of the bad link. I still haven't figured out what went wrong so I deleted the link. Must be something stupid simple (my downfall!).
Don
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For those wondering if the K5BCQ AGC and ClickFix kits work with the BITX40, they do! The AGC works just as well as in the ¦ÌBITX and the ClickFix is, by far, the quietest modification that I have tried. The latter uses the PTT line for keying the receive preamp but that is all explained on the nd6t.com web site. No software changes are necessary unless you use the AGC board as an S meter source (which I recommend) and that is only to calibrate the display to accommodate the improved dynamic range. 73, Don
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Re: Building homebrew ubitx: Need pre-v3 schematic PDF. Also, source for 45M15 (45 MHz IF) filter?
I was able to find one at Aliexpress:?
Came in a package of two for $US14.56.
-Michael VE1LEB
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Re: Removing surface mounted resistor
#ubitx
There are lots of youtube videos on the SMD.? I would not worry about damaging the small parts as they cost almost nothing.
For a one time deal,you can put lots of solder on the part so it just sort of floats off and grab it with some stainless steel tweezers. Use the old standby of 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead solder and stay away from the lead free stuff.
What I like to use is hot air.? For about $ 60 including shipping you can get one of the hot air rework stations.? While I doubt they would hold up for much usage, I have one and it works fine for hobby usage.? You get the hot air and a soldering pencil with some very small tips that you need.? It also works well on heat shink tubing.
Find some old computer boards that have the SMD on them and practice to you get the hang of it.??
If you plan on doing much smd work, plan on spending about $ 300 to $ 350 to get some equipment.? Look at an Amscope se400z microscope for just under $ 200, the $ 60 hotair rework station, and various? tweezers and a few other things.
On Wed, Jun 6, 2018 at 9:48 AM, Robbie Robertson <robbie.robertson@...> wrote: I have the R3 board, and have tried to duplicate the anti-pop cct from the R4 schematic (current on a proto board).
The mod works ok, in that there is no 'pop' on transitions between TX and RX, but the CW sidetone is no longer coming through the speaker...
I want to try changing the value of R70 from 10, to 1000 Ohms (as per Rev4), but I've never tried removing a surface mounted component before, and a bit scared of damaging the board/resistor (in case I need to put it back).
Can anyone advise how best to go about this please?
I'm even toying with the idea of cutting the tack on either side so I can bridge the gap with a new value (or feed lines to my proto board for testing of various resistances...
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Re: Removing surface mounted resistor
#ubitx
I probably reinvented the wheel but I figured out a trick that helps me with smd components.? I cut a small piece of plastic drinking straw and by sliding it down the tweezers they lock onto the component so you don't have to worry about dropping it.? Sure you can buy expensive tools that do that.? You can also buy an assembled radio.
--
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Don your illustrations continue to amaze me.? They remind me of the Forrest Mims project books I used to save up to buy at Radio Shack.
I think the link in your post is wrong.? Without the extension on the page name your server gets cranky and directs to a 403 page.?
--
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Re: Removing surface mounted resistor
#ubitx
Hi Robbie, I was hesitant as well, in the beginning.? I am blind in 1 eye.? I have no depth perception.? I can do it. I watched several youtube videos on removing parts.? Here is a good example:?
After watching a few videos, I was confident.? Make sure you use plenty of flux and a fine tip.
Good luck,
Marco - KG5PRT
On Wed, Jun 6, 2018 at 8:48 AM, Robbie Robertson <robbie.robertson@...> wrote: I have the R3 board, and have tried to duplicate the anti-pop cct from the R4 schematic (current on a proto board).
The mod works ok, in that there is no 'pop' on transitions between TX and RX, but the CW sidetone is no longer coming through the speaker...
I want to try changing the value of R70 from 10, to 1000 Ohms (as per Rev4), but I've never tried removing a surface mounted component before, and a bit scared of damaging the board/resistor (in case I need to put it back).
Can anyone advise how best to go about this please?
I'm even toying with the idea of cutting the tack on either side so I can bridge the gap with a new value (or feed lines to my proto board for testing of various resistances...
|
Re: Removing surface mounted resistor
#ubitx
Robbie:
No sweat. Ideally you can use a pair of soldering tweezers to heat
both sides of the resistor and remove it. However, the trick I use
is to heat one side, then the other and put some sideways pressure
on the part, and it will release and either slide over or lift up
on one side. Then just take it off the board. Make sure some
solder is on the pads before putting the new part in. Hold the
part down in the middle with a? tweezer or other sharp instrument,
and reflow each side separately.
Howard
On 6/6/2018 9:48 AM, Robbie Robertson wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have the R3
board, and have tried to duplicate the anti-pop cct from the R4
schematic (current on a proto board).
The mod works ok, in that there is no 'pop' on transitions between
TX and RX, but the CW sidetone is no longer coming through the
speaker...
I want to try changing the value of R70 from 10, to 1000 Ohms (as
per Rev4), but I've never tried removing a surface mounted
component before, and a bit scared of damaging the board/resistor
(in case I need to put it back).
Can anyone advise how best to go about this please?
I'm even toying with the idea of cutting the tack on either side
so I can bridge the gap with a new value (or feed lines to my
proto board for testing of various resistances...
|
Re: Removing surface mounted resistor
#ubitx
Robbie,
Use your iron to heat up both ends of the resistor by "hopping" back and forth from one end to the other until they are both molten enough to lift the part out by stainless steel tweezers. Begin by holding the component in the middle with the tweezers with one hand, and use the iron in the other to alternately heat up the solder. After the part is removed, a touch of flux on each pad will help reflow the remaining solder when you attach the new resistor.
Hold the new resistor in place and apply heat at just one end until it re-flows. A small amount of fresh solder on the other end, followed by a tiny amount of fresh solder on the first end will complete the task.
Some more hints can be found
|
Removing surface mounted resistor
#ubitx
I have the R3 board, and have tried to duplicate the anti-pop cct from the R4 schematic (current on a proto board).
The mod works ok, in that there is no 'pop' on transitions between TX and RX, but the CW sidetone is no longer coming through the speaker...
I want to try changing the value of R70 from 10, to 1000 Ohms (as per Rev4), but I've never tried removing a surface mounted component before, and a bit scared of damaging the board/resistor (in case I need to put it back).
Can anyone advise how best to go about this please?
I'm even toying with the idea of cutting the tack on either side so I can bridge the gap with a new value (or feed lines to my proto board for testing of various resistances...
|
Finally, a voice of reason - thanks Mike
73 Kevin? K5KDT
>>>? Github is a platform to serve advertisements to software developers.? The price they pay to advertise is providing free project hosting.? Microsoft would have to be pretty foolish to screw it up.? If they alienate developers they lose their ad revenue.? The mass migration away from Sourceforge a while back should serve as a cautionary tale to them.73 MikeKK7ER
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Re: Building homebrew ubitx: Need pre-v3 schematic PDF. Also, source for 45M15 (45 MHz IF) filter?
Glad to hear that the project has source for a period of time.
Unfortunately, purely homebrew/personal implementer (my case) may end up with sourcing difficulty (=potentially discouraging such effort) as there is no distribution channel for the units being procured, unless project would be willing to make the specialized part available on order.
Thank you,
Dave
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Woot! I'm excited to say that I got the shipping notice this morning! Thank you to the support team over there for sending me a note confirming they got my order ok...then booting it out the door with such dispatch! Totally excellent.
If you couldn't tell, I'm a tad excited about this rig. I ordered that EF01 enclosure from Banggood, so someday that'll arrive, as well as the 3d printed front and back plates on eBay. (Yeah, pricey, but so what? Saves me the time and effort to drill stuff.) Because the enclosure is plastic, I ordered a can of spray-on conductive nickel grounding coating, made for shielding and grounding plastic enclosures and other RFI blocking. I'll spray the inner surfaces of everything before I encase the radio. Hopefully, that'll work well -- reviews on the stuff look promising. If not, there's always copper tape out there I can get...but I think the spray will work.
Has anyone been using the 3d printed straight keys from cwmorse dot us? I've got one and it seems quite good, but I'm not an authority on CW. I got one of their micro Navy-style keys, in translucent white...though they do have other styles and colors. They plan on making paddles sometime soon, but I have a decent paddle, a Bencher paddle sitting on my gear stack, unused...it's been years since I tried working CW seriously. (I got my General ticket before they got rid of the code requirement, but they changed it before I got my Extra.)
I can't wait to get started on this radio. It sounds like a lot of fun!
-- Gwen, NG3P
-+-+-+-+-
Jenny Everywhere's Infinite: Quark Time
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Missing libraries is a very common error that beginners make. In many cases, the programmer(s) who wrote the code supply the URL for libraries that are not distributed as part of the Arduino IDE. For example, this is near the top of the prototype header file in JackAl:
#include <Arduino.h>????????? // Standard with IDE
#include <EEPROM.h>?????????? // Standard with IDE
#include <math.h>???????????? // Standard with IDE
#include <SD.h>?????????????? // Standard with IDE
#include <Wire.h>???????????? // Standard with IDE
#include <SPI.h>????????????? // Standard with IDE
#include <stdio.h>??????????? // Standard with IDE
#include <OpenAudio_ArduinoLibrary.h> // https://github.com/chipaudette/OpenAudio_ArduinoLibrary
#include <Adafruit_GFX.h>???? // https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-GFX-Library
#include <Audio.h>??????????? // https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/Audio
#include <RA8875.h>?????????? // https://github.com/sumotoy/RA8875
#include <Rotary.h>?????????? // https://github.com/brianlow/Rotary
#include <SerialFlash.h>????? // https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/SerialFlash
#include <Time.h>???????????? // https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/Time
#include <TimeLib.h>????????? // Part of Stoffregen library, done for backward compatibility
#include <TimerOne.h>???????? // Distributed with Teensy
#include <UTFT.h>???????????? // http://www.rinkydinkelectronics.com/library.php?id=51
#include <URTouch.h>????????? // http://www.rinkydinkelectronics.com/library.php?id=92
#include <UTFT_Buttons.h>???? // http://www.rinkydinkelectronics.com/library.php?id=61
If you get an error message stating that something "is not found", quite often it is a missing library. Providing a URL avoids confusion in locating the proper library because, in many cases, there are multiple libraries that use the same name (e.g., LiquidCrystal).
Jack, W8TEE
On Tuesday, June 5, 2018, 11:24:24 PM EDT, Tom, wb6b <wb6b@...> wrote:
Does the ubitx code rely on other libraries like "wire"? Missing libraries are a common cause of compile errors.?
I have installed many libraries over time, I may have needed dependencies already installed, so I don't know if the code won't compile for need of libraries when people are starting from scratch.?
Go to "Sketch", "Include Library", "Manage Libraries" to find libraries you may need. The error messages should mention what can't be found, and needed to be installed.
Ton, wb6b
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Even on a? Mac, this looks like the wrong directory structure. (See first Yellow below.) This has been discussed here before. The second Yellow line suggests that a non-source file is compiling. Have no clue what that's about.
Jack, W8TEE
On Wednesday, June 6, 2018, 12:24:27 AM EDT, Dennis <dennis@...> wrote:
Hi Gary, The following is the first of 8 pages of errors/warnings: "
Arduino: 1.8.5 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino Nano, ATmega328P"
?
ubitx_cat.cpp:30: error: stray '\302' in program
??<title>ubitx4/ubitx_cat.ino at master ¡¤ afarhan/ubitx4</title>
???^
ubitx_cat.cpp:30: error: stray '\267' in program
sketch/ubitx_cat.cpp:131:367: warning: missing terminating ' character
???Microsoft is acquiring GitHub! <a href="https://blog.github.com/2018-06-04-github-microsoft/" class="text-bold text-white" data-ga-click="MS banner, click, link - text:Read our blog">Read our blog</a> and <a href="https://blogs.microsoft.com/?p=52553832" class="text-bold text-white" data-ga-click="MS banner, click, link - text:Satya Nadella's post">Satya Nadella's post</a> to learn more.
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????^
ubitx_cat.cpp:131: error: missing terminating ' character
???Microsoft is acquiring GitHub! <a href="https://blog.github.com/2018-06-04-github-microsoft/" class="text-bold text-white" data-ga-click="MS banner, click, link - text:Read our blog">Read our blog</a> and <a href="https://blogs.microsoft.com/?p=52553832" class="text-bold text-white" data-ga-click="MS banner, click, link - text:Satya Nadella's post">Satya Nadella's post</a> to learn more.
???^
sketch/ubitx_cat.cpp:134:16: warning: missing terminating ' character
???????????<!-- '"` --><!-- </textarea></xmp> --></option></form><form data-remote="true" class="js-notice-dismiss" action="/settings/dismiss-notice/generic_site_banner" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="post"><input name="utf8" type="hidden" value="✓" /><input type="hidden" name="authenticity_token" value="4nneNjpLRGXeOjfsjQDIXjjJeRqb0BUhZekajl15HLz0ReoE/ZJe9X1xthO2thzPOjGdUvYRWYdsI1ihjIKr1w==" />
????????????????^
ubitx_cat.cpp:134: error: missing terminating ' character
???????????<!-- '"` --><!-- </textarea></xmp> --></option></form><form data-remote="true" class="js-notice-dismiss" action="/settings/dismiss-notice/generic_site_banner" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="post"><input name="utf8" type="hidden" value="✓" /><input type="hidden" name="authenticity_token" value="4nneNjpLRGXeOjfsjQDIXjjJeRqb0BUhZekajl15HLz0ReoE/ZJe9X1xthO2thzPOjGdUvYRWYdsI1ihjIKr1w==" />
???????????^
sketch/ubitx_cat.cpp:164:10: warning: missing terminating ' character
?????<!-- '"` --><!-- </textarea></xmp> --></option></form><form class="js-site-search-form" data-scope-type="Repository" data-scope-id="134364585" data-scoped-search-url="/afarhan/ubitx4/search" data-unscoped-search-url="/search" action="/afarhan/ubitx4/search" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="get"><input name="utf8" type="hidden" value="✓" />
??????????^
"
73, Dennis
W7DRW
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A triple check will do it! Using the excellent color schematic/hookup diagram.
Those jacks are tricky. I had to use an ohm meter to figure them out. ?Bo W4GHV?
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Re: Oscillation problems Bitx20a
HI Fokko:
I have one of those amps running now on 20 meters. I just wanted
to let you know that I had some issues with it. When I built it,
the amp self destructed, and was probably oscillating.? I found
that the IRF530s were running very hot, as well. I didn't have any
in my parts bin, but I do have IRF520s. If you put 2 IRF520s in
parallel, you get about 20% more capacitance then the IRF530,
however you get much better thermal performance and can use a
smaller heat sink. You also need to add LPFs for each band. I will
be writing up something on this soon and posting it.
Howard
On 6/6/2018 3:07 AM, Fokko PH0KKO wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks, great tricks. The low pass filter is on the same board
but hidden behind a vertical wall. The ratios on my board are
about the same as you describe: built closely together at the
input but a bit more spread out towards the final stages. So I
can still put some vertical double sided copper board between
the last stages and connect them with thin coax through holes.
Time for some experimenting, that is one of the fun parts of our
hobby.
In my case L3, T1 and L9 are reasonably close together so I put
L3 and L9 at a 45 degree angle to T1 hoping they would affect
each other less. Maybe some pieces of board between them as
well? I have enough of the stuff for years to come.
I bought one of those cheap 20 dollar Chinese linear amps on
Ebay, the MiniPA70 class AB. With about 2.5W in it should give
me around 40-50W out on 40 meter. So if I can get a nice clean
2.5W signal out that would be good enough for me.
@Farhan: yes I am using a DIY dummy load, about 51 Ohm 40W.
That should be good enough.
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Dennis, It looks like you are trying to compile the GetHub HTML page. Possibly,? you downloaded the web page and saved as a file called 'ubitx_cat.cpp', etc? then click on the Green Button 'Clone or download' button. and download the zip file with all the files . 
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Just finished Ubitx.? RX is fine.? But when I plug in the mic it first goes into tx as soon as the tip goes in, then on full insertion goes back to rx, but no transmit when I push the ptt.? ?I've checked and double checked the mic and key jack connections and can find no error in wiring.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Microsoft is acquiring GitHub.....
GitLab.Com may be an alternative code repository:
? ? ?./2018/06/03/movingtogitlab/
GitBucket has a GiHub.Com domain, so it isn't an alternative.
? ? ?https:///gitbucket
GitLab Pricing:
Note that the Core is $0 I am not affiliated with GitHub or GitLab.
Regards, Ken, KM4NFQ
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Don, ND6T
Michael LeBlanc
Robbie Robertson
Gwen Patton