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I've used a mouse wheel for robotics projects. You should be able to make it work. Jonathan

You may wish to take this opportunity and remove the nano and as I did solder in a inline header so you can remove future Nano's. A low profile socket is helpful so you can later connect the display

Would be lovely to have reliable youtube here in NZ (for 1PM NZST).

Hi Arv, mine's been working fine for well over a week. As strange as this sounds while I was trying to adjust the drive I looked down at the meter and it now had those boxes all the way across. I've

Reads like the Nano is blown. Just plugging in the DDS into your USB by its self should show it booting etc. with version displayed then random numbers 'cause you don't have the tune pot plugged in

mine does not tune...going to purchase another...

trying to figure out what RE and EN leads are...yes backlight works....and the raduino worked flawlessly till I started tinkering....

Curt and David I get that when the Arduino has not fully initialized the LCD display. It can be caused by the RE or EN lead not making good contact. I have this sometimes when using a prototype

This is just speculation, I haven't tried it myself having not yet delved into the programming to activate it: Has anyone tried the guts of a PC-mouse as an encoder? I'm thinking a mouse with

Hi Mike Thanks for the tips My DDS has jumpers on J1 J2 and J3, and it’s definitely an AD9850 with 3 rows of 7 pins. I have e-mailed the seller in China to see what can be done. I have limited test

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Thanks that's the picture i'd been looking for. Together with the recommendation to use buffered output for the VFO this clarifies wireup a lot. Thank you very much for the great work Jack

Sounds like a hosed nano. I'm assuming you have the CH340 driver installed in your computer? Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. http://www.nobucks.net/ http://www.CDupe.com/ http://www.metalworkingfun.com

I have 12v in and 5v out like I would expect to have. I pulled the board off of the display and connected it to my laptop. The radrino shows up as USB-Serial CH340 (COM10) when I plug it into my

Assuming your DDS is the type that has three rows of seven pins be sure that the jumper at J3 is in place. Also, not that there is an easy fix, but you might check to be sure it’s an AD9850 and not

Jack Thanks. Question: External power on picture states 7-9 volts. I have been using 12 volts. I assume my assumption is wrong and that a voltage regulator is needed to reduce 12v to 7-9 v for the

In the "wire up" section of HFsigs.com, under "alignment of the bitx40" it says to turn RV1 (PA bias) fully clockwise (off) and with an ammeter in the PA power lead (so you are measuring only the

Grab your voltmeters guys. Check the input and output voltages of the 3 term regulator hanging off the side. Also try unplugging the connectors going in and plugging the Raduino in to your PC. Vince.

All: Thought this might help some of you decipher some of the pins coming out from the board. Jack, W8TEE #yiv2517355600 -- filtered {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2

exact same here....and as I tuned the display cut off and on. Going to order another board.