Re: Can¡¯t shut off emails from this group
Did the save several times no change. Thanks though.
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-------- Original message -------- From: Cor Beijersbergen <dx11@...> Date: 2020-11-16 8:31 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [BITX20] Can¡¯t shut off emails from this group
I had a comparable problem. After a while I found out that selecting your choice of delivery was not enough, one has to scroll down the page and click ¡°save¡±. That worked for me. Cor PA4Q ? ? I accidentally deleted my previous email on this, reposted havre reposted again.
Arv suggested to change from ¡° View all¡± to View Digest.¡±. I have selected ¡°No emails¡± and am still getting every post. Does this function not work?
Thanks Arv BTW for the quick response earlier.
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Re: Can¡¯t shut off emails from this group
I had a comparable problem. After a while I found out that selecting your choice of delivery was not enough, one has to scroll down the page and click ¡°save¡±. That worked for me. Cor PA4Q ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of jaytee1@...
Sent: Monday, 16 November 2020 00:44
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BITX20] Can¡¯t shut off emails from this group? I accidentally deleted my previous email on this, reposted havre reposted again.
Arv suggested to change from ¡° View all¡± to View Digest.¡±. I have selected ¡°No emails¡± and am still getting every post. Does this function not work?
Thanks Arv BTW for the quick response earlier.
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Hi everybody,
Did anybody managed to add a GPS to external referente the SI 5351?
Cheers,
Rafael PU2UIT
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Gareth,
to expand on what Curt stated, it has the Si5351a clock chip to generate the LO signals needed as well as a Nano micro controller to control the rig.? It provides the interface to the display as well.
You can find details about the uBITX and Raduino on HFSignals pages:
73
Evan
AC9TU
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Raduino is a little control board that all ubitx and some later bitx have to provide pll vfo and digital display. Enjoy your builds.
Curt wb8yyy
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When driving my little XDT-PA70 linear amp I use RV1 to keep the amp input below 5 W. I turn it up when not using the amp. Same as Evan I have not noticed reduced output purity? -- ?
73
Mick VA3EPM?
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Re: S-Meter Pin A7 Location V6
Heath provided a removal tool with their kits. I used to have several but you never have the tool you need when you need it. I probably put it in a place where I'd always find it when needed. Now I forgot where that place is... It was in the late 70's and I've tried to keep my mind open for more important things. This is how my mind works, anyway.
The tool provided by heath was a small cylinder with a hole that slip over the pin in a connector and slide down over the pin and release it. Simple. But with so many sizes of connectors, the exact tool these days is much more numerous than the one Molex connector used by Heath for their power connectors.
Bob ¡ª KK5R
On Monday, November 16, 2020, 6:07:36 AM EST, Evan Hand <elhandjr@...> wrote:
I have used similar tools to this in the past for control connectors at work.
I have ordered a set for myself.? Seems like a low-cost tool to help prevent being stabbed in the hand with a screwdriver.
73
Evan
AC9TU?
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I have joined this group because from a couple of years back I have a BitX kit which
still awaits assembly, but don't know which version. (And also a QCX in the same
state of disassembly)
Reading this group, I have seen several references to RADUINO but cannot find
out what it is from googling. What is it? Some form of badged Arduino?
Annealing; with my model engineer's hat on (Horology and 16mm NG railways) I
know that to harden steel you take it to red heat and plunge it, but to anneal it
you just let it cool naturally. Now, from a distant memory, I thought it was the
other way around for copper, plunge to anneal?
PS. It's been the horology diversion that has kept me away from assembling
electronics :-)
PPS Hello all!
73 de Gareth G4SDW
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Re: Can¡¯t shut off emails from this group
Arv,
Still receiving email notifications. Received 8 overnight...Not sure what¡¯s going on so can you please have another look?
Thanks
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Re: S-Meter Pin A7 Location V6
I have used similar tools to this in the past for control connectors at work.
I have ordered a set for myself.? Seems like a low-cost tool to help prevent being stabbed in the hand with a screwdriver.
73
Evan
AC9TU?
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Re: S-Meter Pin A7 Location V6
Very good idea, Mick. It will avoid possible confusion later, too. And it never hurts to keep things simple and direct.
Bob ¡ª KK5R
On Monday, November 16, 2020, 4:24:58 AM EST, Mick <m0gwd@...> wrote:
Hello Bob
Thanks for the reply.? Yes all too easy to injure yourself if you're not careful.
I'm going use the new pre-wired connector that came with my V6 and just reconnect the encoder on the end.
Seems the easiest and safest option.
All the best
73
Mick M0GWD
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Re: S-Meter Pin A7 Location V6
Hello Bob
Thanks for the reply.? Yes all to easy to injure yourself if you're not careful.
I'm going use the new pre-wired connector that came with my V6 and just reconnect the encoder on the end.
Seems the easisest and safest option.
All the best
73
Mick M0GWD
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Re: S-Meter Pin A7 Location V6
Hi Andy
Thanks for the information and the PDF.
I can see now that I was getting A7 on the Nano confused with Pin 7 on the connector.
Thanks for the clarification.? I've printed off the schematic.
All the best
73
Mick M0GWD
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Re: S-Meter Pin A7 Location V6
Hello, i am doing at the moment the same "project"i soldered(not so clean but..) the wire to the A7, on the arduino, yello wire Volume High, but it doesn't work yet. This evening i am gonna try to ingrease the 1.5 nf to 2.2 nf to see what happens. would be nice in smd i think?
Regards Rene
Netherlands
And yes still learning for N
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Re: Follow-up Antuino question
Tom, That suggesion to anneal comes from Roy Lewallen, W7EL.
On Mon 16 Nov, 2020, 10:20 AM Tom, wb6b, < wb6b@...> wrote: On Sun, Nov 15, 2020 at 07:47 PM, Ashhar Farhan wrote:
I am worried that we are losing the skill to produce VFOs.
Hi Ashhar,
Good points on building stable VFOs. Likely any L/C oscillator would benefit from these points. When I was a kid building and experimenting with L/C oscillators and VFOs for radios this was an important part of the radio construction. Easy to forget how to make these correctly now days. Before the days of microprocessors in everything, I remember building a Heathkit audio generator that actually used a small incandescent light bulb to stabilize the output level and keep the waveform a sine wave. I love microprocessors, but still remember and have warm feelings for the analog cleverness of days gone by.
I don't know if this is practical to add to a list of improving oscillator stability techniques, but I was reading one of the earlier links (I believe it was in this group) to an older construction article. The author of that article suggested "annealing" the coils by dipping them in boiling water for a while. The idea seems interesting.?
Tom, wb6b
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Re: Follow-up Antuino question
On Sun, Nov 15, 2020 at 07:47 PM, Ashhar Farhan wrote:
I am worried that we are losing the skill to produce VFOs.
Hi Ashhar, Good points on building stable VFOs. Likely any L/C oscillator would benefit from these points. When I was a kid building and experimenting with L/C oscillators and VFOs for radios this was an important part of the radio construction. Easy to forget how to make these correctly now days. Before the days of microprocessors in everything, I remember building a Heathkit audio generator that actually used a small incandescent light bulb to stabilize the output level and keep the waveform a sine wave. I love microprocessors, but still remember and have warm feelings for the analog cleverness of days gone by. I don't know if this is practical to add to a list of improving oscillator stability techniques, but I was reading one of the earlier links (I believe it was in this group) to an older construction article. The author of that article suggested "annealing" the coils by dipping them in boiling water for a while. The idea seems interesting.? Tom, wb6b
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Re: Follow-up Antuino question
The H and P works only with an already stable vfo that has a long term drift under the locking range. It cant fix a badly made VFO. That said, I should repeat that a stable VFO is so not merely by design but construction and choice of components.? For instance, if you use the standard disc ceramic caps, it is bound to drift. If you keep it open without a shield it will drift too. At times, the heat from a regulator can move the frequency. A stable vfo is made with a few rules of thumb: 1. Build the entire VFO circuit using point to point wiring directly soldering component leads to each other. Keep the leads short but dont stuff them very close together. 2. Use polystyrene capacitors if you can. These are transparent capactors with silver colored body cylindrical bodies. They are available from mouser. You will need high value (about 100pf caps paralled up) for resonating at the design frequency and low value (2.2pf) for coupling to the JFET. 3. Use either a T50-6 toroid or an air core inductor wound on a relatively stable thermal expansion. A teflon rod is a good alternative..so is a test tube. A drinking straw is not! Even free standing copper inductors change their shape as copper expands the wiring. It has to be held in place with clear nail polish lacquer. 4. Avoid the polyvaricons, they are noisy, rough tuning and drifty. Hunt around for the old, all metal broadcast tuning capacitors. Mount the VFO board on the tuning capacitor or mount the tuning capacitor on the VFO board. No loose wires! 5. Mount the regulator at least 2 inches away from the VFO's capacitors and the inductor. 6. For low noise operation, a JFET is the best choice. You have to bypass the voltage regulator at the input too, as well as the output. Mosfets make noise VFOs due to their increasing flicker noise at lower frequencies. 7. Avoid using varactor diodes, they are meant for PLLs where drift of the VCO is a given. A varactor that is used as fine tuning over a few khz is acceptable in parallel to a tuning capacitors. The drift will be proportionally less. A combination of a variable tuning capacitor and a varactor over a small range is a good, backlash free alternative to a good slow motion drive. With these guidelines, it is possible to consistently produce VFOs that are stable enough for CW and SSB work. Even PSK31 and FT8 are possible with effort. An interesting idea is to cancel the thermal drift by using a diode like the 1N914 to sense the increased ambient temperature and provide correction offset DC to the varactor. I am worried that we are losing the skill to produce VFOs. It is fundamental to our persuasion. Generating stable and clean RF is the start of any radio project.
Tom
You got it!? analog VFOs used to drift all over the band.? Then came the Vackar design? which was very stable.? Next seems to have been H&P which made even a? Vackar design? better (cheaper components and less stringent builds) stabilized by H&P).? With PIC? and AVR/Arduino?came really good and inexpensive FLL designs.? PLLs were always? available, but seen by many as too complex and expensive (not really true but still hard? to dispel?the myth, mystique, hype, and traditions).
H&P was seen as an easy and quick fix for old equipment with drifty VFOs.
Arv _._
On Sun, Nov 15, 2020 at 5:24 PM Tom, wb6b < wb6b@...> wrote: On Sun, Nov 15, 2020 at 03:57 PM, Arv Evans wrote:
It tries to hover around one particular frequency.?
So in following the part of this thread that is strictly related to Huff and Puff, was the original reason for the Huff and Puff circuit to create a manual VFO that would jump and hold in accurate increments rather than be free to drift around uniformly. A way to allow operators to dial up drift-free discrete frequencies before digital frequency synthesizers became the primary way to set the frequency of a radio?
The non-drifting VFO settings were more the goal than the actual circuit details of Huff and Puff, itself. Huff and Puff was likely chosen because it was easily implemented with a simple type-d flip-flop, in the pre microprocessors everywhere days?
Tom, wb6b
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Patrick,
If you cannot work out the Xloader issues, then you can download the source code from the same link as the hex files.? It is a different zip file.
If you go that route, then you will need to go into the ubitx.h tab and be sure to set the?
#define UBITX_BOARD_VERSION 5? ? ? ? ? ?//v1 ~ v4 : 4, v5:?
to a 4, and select the correct display in the following lines.? Then compile and load.?
Since you have loaded a program to the Nano before, I assume that what you have works with the Raduino Nano.
I believe that the Xloader download has security issues in that it is not registered.? That means you need to allow it to download and then run.? I kind of remember the concern I had with bypassing the Windows security feature.
Feel free to post with specifics of your error messages if you need more help.? It is always best to do so in this same thread so that others can follow and learn.? If you would rather do so out of the groups.io then private message me if you wish.
73
Evan
AC9TU
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Re: Can¡¯t shut off emails from this group
Thanks Arv, will let you know.?
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Frank,
As far as I know, there is not an official way to adjust RV1.? It is a drive setting that I have used to set the output of the PA to a value that is about 12 Watts on 80 meters in CW mode with 13.8 volts supplied.? I have not tried to push the finals beyond that point with 13.8 volts.? Even so, RV1 tends to be close to the maximum level (fully counter-clockwise) to get that value. It seems that it was more a way to reduce power than adjusting to a point where later stages are overdriven.?
One of these days I will get around to measuring the effect on output purity.? So far have not had any issues with the above setting process.? I have tested my rigs for harmonic and spurious.? I have not tested for linearity other than from signal reports and monitoring with my other rigs.
73
Evan
AC9TU
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Mick
Bob Lunsford