On Tue, Jul 10, 2018 at 10:07 pm, Eardan wrote:
Jeff had the same problem also this link should help you figure out how to calibrate it?
http://www.hamskey.com/2018/05/frequency-adjustment-of-ubitx-si5351.html
This article mentions using WSPR to get information about your TX actual frequency.? You can use the WSPR website data about your transmissions to find out what the receiving stations think your frequency is.? Could you simply average the receiving stations' frequency reports and use that as the actual frequency?
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Re: Bitx arduino reprograming
Actually, once you fix the broken line, the code should work. However, let's make sure the Nano is getting the compiled code. Try this:
Load the Arduino IDE Plug the USB connector into the Nano Check to make sure the Arduino Nano is selected (Tools --> Board) Check to make sure a COM port is assigned to the Nano (Tools --> Port) ??? These last 2 steps must be set to go any further Load the Blink program (File --> Examples -->01.Basics --> Blink) Compile/upload Blink sketch
If you can do this and the Nano red LED blinks in a 1 second rhythm, you know your Nano is good. Assuming that all is well, then try:
Load the LCD Hello World program (File --> Examples --> LiquidCrystal --> Hello World). Note that this program may be pretty far down the list. Compile/upload the Hello World sketch.
If this works, then I don't know why the Bitx code doesn't work. If this does not work, then start looking for some kind of wiring/connection error between the Bitx board and the Raduino board.
Jack, W8TEE
On Wednesday, July 11, 2018, 7:38:19 AM EDT, Elmar V?ller <dl2qa@...> wrote:
Jack, Have load the software up but can¡¯t see anything on display. I checked the hardware and found ?a broken line (no voltage 3,3volt on si5361a). Surely I have to reload the software and see what happens.?? 73s
I? Von meinem iPad gesendet Am 10.07.2018 um 21:16 schrieb Jack Purdum via Groups.Io < jjpurdum@...>:
The red LED should not blink any more since you have replaced the Blink program with the Bitx program. Which software are you trying to load? I would suggest using the original Raduino software for the first try, as it requires no modifications to the system.
Jack, W8TEE
On Tuesday, July 10, 2018, 2:53:56 PM EDT, Elmar V?ller < dl2qa@...> wrote:
Doug,
first, I am appreciate your help very much.
now we repeat the procedure on my sons pc (win 10) and the upload was done very well on com 3¡ª
but next problem is that the display shows nothing.
red led on board doesnt blink anymore. Green led is on. Rx/tx led off.
you have any advice .?
73s
?
Elmar,
None of us were born knowing how to do this.? I will try to explain with more detail to see if we can get you through this.? Let us first see if your computer is recognizing the nano.? This will help determine if you have the correct driver.
First go to your device manager.? In Windows 7 go to control panel, then systems and security, and finally device manager.? Most likely you will have one of the two situations described below.
Find a heading labeled Ports (COM & LPT).? Do you see Arduino Nano listed?? If so, write down the port number shown after it.
If you did find the Nano in that section you have the driver.? Now go to the Arduino IDE (the program you installed to compile and load sketches) and check the following under the Tools tab at the top:? For board make sure it shows Arduino Nano, select it from the list by clicking the arrow.? For port make sure it shows the port number you found in your device manager.? Once you have the board and port selected you should be able to upload the sketch.
If in your device manager the Nano does not show up under ports it is probably under Other Devices.? If that is the case you do need to install the driver.? That is also a relatively easy step but that will be for another post if you need it.
Let us know what you find.
--
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Re: Inexpensive eBay Amplifier Kits
The existing filter can be used to make one for either 40/30m or 30/20m.? You cannot cover
40 and 20m with the same filter as the 40M harmonics fall in or near 20M.? ?Of course
external switched filter is easy to do.
The 13.56mhz is generally used for heating and other processes allowed in the ISM band.
Those less than 100W amps are likely used as drivers for KW sized (induction heating
and sputtering).? As a result linearity is not a factor and class B or C is often the case.
Allison
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Re: Inexpensive eBay Amplifier Kits
Your link wants us to log in. -- Lee - N9LO? "I Void Warranties"
?
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Re: Inexpensive eBay Amplifier Kits
I recently bought one on AliExpress.
This one features a built-in LPF, which seems unusual - but really convenient. The provided LPF is for 13.56 MHz, but retuning for a ham band seems fairly simple. I have not had time yet to built this kit, but I have contacted the maker a couple of times and they seem responsive.
That said, I think getting them to provide a different filter will be a long, drawn out process, and not in keeping with a $20 kit. The 13.56 MHz filter is not far from what's needed for 40, 30, or 20 meters, so the provided toroids could likely be used.
73,
Paul K2AYZ
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Re: Bitx arduino reprograming
Jack, Have load the software up but can¡¯t see anything on display. I checked the hardware and found ?a broken line (no voltage 3,3volt on si5361a). Surely I have to reload the software and see what happens.?? 73s
I? Von meinem iPad gesendet Am 10.07.2018 um 21:16 schrieb Jack Purdum via Groups.Io < jjpurdum@...>:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The red LED should not blink any more since you have replaced the Blink program with the Bitx program. Which software are you trying to load? I would suggest using the original Raduino software for the first try, as it requires no modifications to the system.
Jack, W8TEE
On Tuesday, July 10, 2018, 2:53:56 PM EDT, Elmar V?ller < dl2qa@...> wrote:
Doug,
first, I am appreciate your help very much.
now we repeat the procedure on my sons pc (win 10) and the upload was done very well on com 3¡ª
but next problem is that the display shows nothing.
red led on board doesnt blink anymore. Green led is on. Rx/tx led off.
you have any advice .?
73s
?
Elmar,
None of us were born knowing how to do this.? I will try to explain with more detail to see if we can get you through this.? Let us first see if your computer is recognizing the nano.? This will help determine if you have the correct driver.
First go to your device manager.? In Windows 7 go to control panel, then systems and security, and finally device manager.? Most likely you will have one of the two situations described below.
Find a heading labeled Ports (COM & LPT).? Do you see Arduino Nano listed?? If so, write down the port number shown after it.
If you did find the Nano in that section you have the driver.? Now go to the Arduino IDE (the program you installed to compile and load sketches) and check the following under the Tools tab at the top:? For board make sure it shows Arduino Nano, select it from the list by clicking the arrow.? For port make sure it shows the port number you found in your device manager.? Once you have the board and port selected you should be able to upload the sketch.
If in your device manager the Nano does not show up under ports it is probably under Other Devices.? If that is the case you do need to install the driver.? That is also a relatively easy step but that will be for another post if you need it.
Let us know what you find.
--
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Hi Allard! Thank you for the fast response.? Yes, I did adjust LSB from 180 ppm to 90 ppm and USB from default to 1310 Have. Also changed the LSB drive level to 2 mA, frequency span to 100 KHz and scan interval from default to 7.150 - 7.250 MHz. As before, after each change I pressed the FB to go back to settings. Once all these changes are in place the radio works as it should until I power down. At the next power up it loads again the factory settings. I went and modified the factory settings in the sketch, so I am left with the annoying issue of starting with VFO A = VFO B = 7.125 MHz and the message. I can probably go and change those things too, but I would like to have the radio remember where I left when power down. 73, Ion VA3NOI -- Ion
VA3NOI
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Re: uBITX raduino no if output help please
Hi Mike
It would seem that the Arduino is probably ok if the display is working normally.?? Maybe a bad solder joint in there.?
glenn
vk3pe
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On Tue, Jul 10, 2018 at 10:39 pm, <vk3xl@...> wrote:
Hi Glenn, good to hear from you again. I get no RF of any sort from any pin on the raduino. The LCD appears to function normally. The 25mhz crystal is oscillating. Someone above suggested the nano may be dead. I will try a reflash and if its bricked then I will replace the nano.
--
Mike VK3XL
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Hi Ion,
When you went through the calibration procedure after the upgrade, did you
actually change any of the calibration values, or did you just accept the
initial default values?
If you didn't actually change any of them, then the Raduino will "think"
that calibration hasn't been performed, hence the message "uncalibrated"
will be shown.
73 Allard PE1NWL
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On Wed, July 11, 2018 04:52, Ion Petroianu, VA3NOI wrote: After a lont time of using my Bitx40 with Allard's 1.09 firmware I decided
today to upgrade to the latest version 1.27.7
No hardware modifications have been implemented except for the Function
switch that was installed when switching to 1.09.
With the new firmware (1.27.7) I cannot save my calibration. After I power
OFF and again ON I get the same message, unit not calibrated, so I have to
go through the steps of setting LSB calibration, USB calibration, VFO
drive levels, etc. and the starting frequency is VFO A = VFO B = 7.1250
MHz.
Initially I thought there was something wrong with the Nano (EEPROM
issues), but reverting back to 1.09 everything is back to normal and the
calibration values are retained.
Any one had the same experience? What did you do to make it work?
Do I need to make any hardware modifications in order to have the radio
retain the calibration?
Thank you in advance,
--
Ion
VA3NOI
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Re: #ubitx Where does D2 obtain 5v from?
#ubitx
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On Tue, 10 Jul 2018, 06:46 Ed Beckerich, < kc8sbv@...> wrote: I had a solder bridge between the anode of D2 and pin 14 on the flip flop IC. They both seem to want 5v, and I was unsure, but used my xacto to break the bridge. Now the flip flop checks to the 5v check point next to resistor R62 on my #2 uBitx board. But the D2 anode does not seem to get 5v from the same point. What am I missing, and should I put the solder bridge back?
Ed
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Re: uBITX Firmware CEC Version 1.08 Release
#ubitx
I was finding it hard to find all the links to the things, so I put the uBITX Firmware CEC on its own page and updated it to this latest info /g/BITX20/wiki/uBITX-Firmware-CEC-by-KD8CEC? Thank you Ian for all your amazing work! Happy 1.08 customer on uBITX v3. 73 Patrick W7PEA
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Raj, the price will go up, not come down. It will also be another thing for newbies to be confused about. For those who want to use a different audio amp, you have to just wire it up out of the volume control. It is as easy ss it gets even now. - f
Farhan,
What I would like to see uBitx become more hacker friendly. Please put
the audio on a daughter board
with a 0.1" pitch socket so we can plug in any chip or discrete home
brew board
Secondly daughter boards for the filter and the two bidi amps which I
call townships.
The mother board will shrink and be more hackable.
I guess that costs will come down a bit..
Raj
At 10-07-18, you wrote:
The LM386 can be improved. Here
are some great mods to the chip we love to hate
On Tue, 10 Jul 2018, 16:45 Raj vu2zap,
<
rajendrakumargg@...> wrote:
- Gordon,
- The v4 audio works fine but a little low on gain. Farhan has
inadvertently forgotten to add that extra component required.
- The mod is extremely simple, anyone can do it. At low volumes you can
distinctly hear the improvement and increase
- in volume.
- The change was made so that uBitx will not depend on chips that are
obsolete or parts that may become..
- I sincerely dislike the LM386!
- Raj
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Re: Homebrew from scratch
#ubitx
In the attached ZIP file are the files for this PCB plus the schematic etc.
Please read the README file as this has information about the other files along with some notes about circuit changes etc.
I hope you find this useful.
73's
Peter M0HYT
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Farhan,
What I would like to see uBitx become more hacker friendly. Please put
the audio on a daughter board
with a 0.1" pitch socket so we can plug in any chip or discrete home
brew board
Secondly daughter boards for the filter and the two bidi amps which I
call townships.
The mother board will shrink and be more hackable.
I guess that costs will come down a bit..
Raj
At 10-07-18, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The LM386 can be improved. Here
are some great mods to the chip we love to hate
On Tue, 10 Jul 2018, 16:45 Raj vu2zap,
<
rajendrakumargg@...> wrote:
- Gordon,
- The v4 audio works fine but a little low on gain. Farhan has
inadvertently forgotten to add that extra component required.
- The mod is extremely simple, anyone can do it. At low volumes you can
distinctly hear the improvement and increase
- in volume.
- The change was made so that uBitx will not depend on chips that are
obsolete or parts that may become..
- I sincerely dislike the LM386!
- Raj
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Re: uBITX raduino no if output help please
whether the rig is in CW mode? ?If so, during Tx? only first oscillator works, cancelling 33MHz and 12MHz. See the ubitx? circuit description on hfsignals site. regards dsarma vu3zmv
On Wed, Jul 11, 2018 at 11:09 AM, vk3xl via Groups.Io <vk3xl@...> wrote: Hi Glenn, good to hear from you again. I get no RF of any sort from any pin on the raduino. The LCD appears to function normally. The 25mhz crystal is oscillating. Someone above suggested the nano may be dead. I will try a reflash and if its bricked then I will replace the nano.
--
Mike VK3XL
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Re: uBITX raduino no if output help please
Hi Glenn, good to hear from you again. I get no RF of any sort from any pin on the raduino. The LCD appears to function normally. The 25mhz crystal is oscillating. Someone above suggested the nano may be dead. I will try a reflash and if its bricked then I will replace the nano.
--
Mike VK3XL
|
Thanks for the link. It looks like a really good article.
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yeah Jeff had the same problem also this link should help you figure out how to calibrate it?
http://www.hamskey.com/2018/05/frequency-adjustment-of-ubitx-si5351.html
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Re: NEXTION DISPLAY UPDATES For KD8CEC ver 1.094 up
I have one of Sunil's cases and was looking at a way to use a Nextion without major butchering of the nice case. The 2.4" that I have looks like it might just barely fit...I measured the height of the display as about 43mm and the distance from the top edge of the front panel to the top of the jack labels is about 48mm. The 3.2" display is about 47mm high. Looks like either might fit but it would be close, if you don;t want to cover up the labels. A bezel would add some to the size of the display.
I have a second uBitX waiting to be assembled. I think I'll leave the first one in Sunil's case with the 16x2 display (altho I swapped it for white-on-blue version that I like better) and build the second one into another case that I can set up the way I like it.
Also, I believe that Sunil is planning to offer cases cut for some of the Nextion displays but I don't know how far along he is with that. Maybe he'll chime in here with more info.
Anyway, just some info that may be of use.
(We might want to start a new thread about this.)
Mark AA7TA
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Show quoted text
On 7/10/18 7:20 PM, Richard Spohn wrote: Thanks Joe. I think the size of my display then, will depend on how
much space there is on the panel...I bought one of Sunil's cases, and
now I'm thinking I could mount the correct size of Nextion in a bezel
with bolts mounted on the back that are spaced to hold the Nextion to
the front of the case, covering the hole in it that was meant for the
16x2. That could work pretty nicely. ...
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Hi crew --
I've noticed that I consistently have to tune +100 ppm in order to zero-beat WWV. In detail:
for both USB and LSB:
?5 000 kHz ->? 5000.050 actual tuning
10 000 kHz -> 10000.100 actual tuning
20,000 kHz -> 20.000,200 actual tuning
I do have CEC version 1.08 and a "master calibration" value of 138250.
If I'm +100 ppm as described above, should this value be +100; e.g. 138350?
I do find this frequency offset annoying. Definitely impacts audio.
See you on PSK31 or THOR8 :-)
Thanks
de Jeff AG7EW
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Arvo W0VRA
Lee
Paul Galburt - K2AYZ
Ion Petroianu, VA3NOI
Allard PE1NWL
Raj vu2zap
AG7EW