The mike should be there. It is a small part slightly bigger than a watch battery and needs to have leads soldered to it. As to the speaker, it must be8 ohms.

v/r
Fred W4JLE

Jack,

Got the board together , all aligned and tested - voltages good. ?
Loaded the sketch - Display looks fine.
Tuned the VFO and display frequency moves.

Some observations / issues are:

Every time the display voltage updates, it flashes the screen and makes a" tsssh" sound on the speaker.
I have a 12v regulated and highly filtered power supply which i use on all my bitx40 and it sounds good - so not ?the power supply.

Cant find anywhere to select the frequency time stepping.

Which connection is used for the vfo input to bitx40? ? out2? ?SQR?

I tried them all and get the most noise from out2?

In the picture of the rotary encoder, (i used the same one) I notice some capacitors and 1 resistor? looks like a 10k
The encoder seems to work well without them but was wondering why you had the extra components, and where are they connected and what the values are?


All is off to a good start, just working thru it paces..

Thanks
Joe
VE1BWV

Hi all,
I'm new to the group, and just built my BitX this weekend. I found that the 3.5 mm audio jack that came with the kit can be wired so that it uses a speaker, unless headphones are plugged in. Then it switches the speaker off and uses the headphones instead.

Scott WZ0W


--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

All:

I've just uploaded Release 2 of the B40 assembly manual, B40AssemblyManual02.doc. This pertains to adding/using the modifications I've added to my BITX40, mainly via the PCB that I'm using. It contains some thoughts on populating the PCB and how some features work. It is now 33 pages long and has some photos that might be helpful when building it.

Jack, W8TEE

Hi Dexter,
My friend took the circuit diagram to staples and they printed the file from his thumb drive perfectly clear, in color ?about 16x 30
for $ 3.00 each - heavy paper
What a difference. ?For $6 you can put one on the wall and have one to mark up with voltages etc.
Andy

I would be interested in a parts list as well. At our last club meeting one of the new hams said the Bitx40 kit was over his head and he asked if someone else could complete it. So I volunteered.

I noticed no microphone nor speaker, but I have a small 3 inch speaker in my other stuff. I have a spare 8-pin mic for my Alinco DXSR-8T, would that work with this radio ?

Thanks !

--
Jim/N4AAB

On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 10:13 pm, John P wrote:

I thought I read somewhere that the red wire from the volume control connector should go to the input of the AGG, and the output should go to the volume control where the red wire previously went, but I can't find that again either.

Never mind! I found it this morning the answer is in message #21519.

It seems like there are a lot of threads about the VU2ESE AGC circuit. Is there a moderator or somebody that could merge all of them?

?
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John - WA2FZW

Yes, I'm getting 12V to the drain when The PTT is pressed

Thanks, folks. I have the info I needed. Heard first sigs in amongst a pile of static, so progress is being made. Just investigated how to wire the second supplied 3.5mm socket for the mic in a basic no-name mono headset ...

May not be going to respite this month - they don't like colds, let alone 'flu (not surprising, and quite understandable) - so may have more time at home to tinker.

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 06:47 am, ohwenzelph wrote:

Ok, the 5-2-2017 revised schematic in the wiki makes it clear where to put the agc circuit (instead of just audio in & audio out. "splain it to me like I'm 5 please"

I'm confused too. I can't seem to find the version of the schematic that you referenced; still trying to find my way around here! So much to digest!

I thought I read somewhere that the red wire from the volume control connector should go to the input of the AGG, and the output should go to the volume control where the red wire previously went, but I can't find that again either.

Is this correct?

Thanks!

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John - WA2FZW

--

Before you yank out the IRF, do this check:

Power the board and final, disconnect MIC and with PTT pressed check if 12V is getting to the IRF drain.

I totally agree with ekelly. I have had almost exactly the same experience with lifting a trace from the top of the board while focusing on the bottom of the board where the solder pads are. The solder was still attached on the top when I pulled it out, lifting the trace back to the inductor coil. I had to make that trace on the bottom side with a bit of wire. The last time I replaced the IRF510, I clipped the leads high, and soldered the new one to the leads sticking up from the board. I'll never have to worry about damaging the board if I need to replace the PA again.

I have some IF510's on order. I hope that's the problem because it will be an easy fix. It's worth a shot.?

I've never tried transmitting with this radio without a dummy load attached.?

开云体育

IRF510 - A tip for those replacing the transistor. Don't try to remove it with a solder sucker. The pins fit
too tightly into the circuit board and unless you have a way of heating all three pins at the same time.
Try this, carefully clip the pins at the bottom of the transistor, if it is dead, nothing lost. Once the transistor
is gone, you can easily remove one pin at a time leaving a clean hole for installing the new transistor.
I replaced three of them and wound up damaging the circuit track on the board. The 510's are inexpensive
and not worth trying to save them, even if you are removing them to test them. They are too sensitive!
Ed