开云体育

I have a Monoprice Mini and a Monoprice Select Plus. I printed the case on the plus. Matt Sent from my iPhone 7

Ok i have s dummy load of 50ohm this would be the thing signal generator - filter in - probe of the oscilloscope in the vcc of the filter OUT-dummy load? ?? which signal? If i input 7mhz it will let

You need to test it with 50 Ohm load (a short leaded resistor or SMD). The generator needs a 50 Ohm output, that may be the major problem. Use 100 MHz scope and good x10 probe. If you have a signal

Wow, everybody else's BITX looks so much better than mine, and I tried so hard to avoid the "homemade" look!? Haha! -- Darren, W9ZIM

I do have an oscilloscope. I may inject rf signals and see if they are neutralized right?

EA3IAVTest or evaluation of filters when you have very limited test equipment is not an insurmountable obstacle. Build a diode probe or RF detector to use with your DC voltmeter to measure output of

Are this kits any good? i have purchaed the 40m version to check it up. How can i test its performance? I have an oscilloscope but ?I am total noob with it. It has signal generator too I see no big

BITX QSO Night, Sunday, June 25, 7pm Local Time, 7277 kHz in North America, 7177 kHz elsewhere Join us as we make contacts from BITX40 to BITX40 on 7.277 MHz in 40 meters! To participate, call CQ BITX

Oh, I forgot to mention, that is with 24V on the PA. My plan is to get the new board up and running and then I can compare the voltages etc. between the two and try to figure it out. And no, I don't

That looks like a great deal.? I bought a printrbot simple metal when they first came out.? I am still very happy with it but I tell everyone that asks you can do as good or better for less money.?

I'm using a P3 steel. Started out life as a wooden Prusa i3 kit from a now-defunct seller in about 2012. Migrated to the steel frame last year.

There is a printable micro adjuster for the Level Sensor by "Henry". It is on the web on the 3d printer place (Thingverse), I can't remember. I put spring out of a ink pen in mine to tension the

Jonathan, I would consider 5W within limits. Let me tell you a condensed story! My Ft757Mk2 was on 10M CW. Nice pileup. Then I heard a bad tone so I gave him a T5 and he did the same. I shut down. I

+1 on the Prusa. My nephew bought one and we assembled it. Works very well. He got the platform leveler upgrade recently. It has been working well for over a year now. He has done many big/long prints

You can multiplex a few button just over a single wire, even with a hold function, not just clicks. Take a peek into https://github.com/pavelmc/bmux/ and examples of the implementation in the examples

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HICTOP-3D-Printer-Auto-Leveling-24V-Prusa-I3-Desktop-DIY-Aluminum-Black-3DP-12/151817197431?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc

blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } Thanks. That's a lot of info to

My first was the wooden box models with 2 heads. This was 3 years ago. $500 from So. El Monte Ca. I made it simpler, removed a head and changed the extruder. Works good now. Now I bought 2 more

Raj, Thanks. Low mic gain might be it, but I thought you should get 5W out of the simple electret mic included? And the issue is that I have to crank R136 fully over to get the 5 watts. I will short

I have a Mendel90 reprap I built about 4 years ago. RichKC8MWG Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone