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Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the BITX20 group. File : /BitX40 Spectrum Output/ssh.bmp Uploaded by :

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the BITX20 group. File : /BitX40 Spectrum Output/ssl.bmp Uploaded by :

Hi everyone, I'm going to upload 2 pics into the file section if someone is able to look at them for me. I have two signal approx 500-700k away from the tuned freg and less than 20dbm difference

http://ak2b.blogspot.nl/2015/01/si5351-simple-vfo-hardware-setup.html On W5KUB (facebook) there is also the sketch. Not sure if attaching to this mail is the way to go. Ron – PA3FAT Verzonden: 14

The noise from the frequency counters enters through the tap off point. The correct way is to build an isolation amplifier with a cascade pair of common base amplifiers between the VFO and the

I shield my DL4YHF homebrew LED counters. The one in the link is a homebrew SW-40+ receiver board and VFO. The VFO has feedthru caps for power and the 10-turn pot control wiring, and the signal to the

Is there a schematic and write up on this VFO anywhere? It sure looks like a neat project. Thanks for posting it. ?Ian ?K3HQL?

Would this solve your problems: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIm33oq1b7s Working with W5KUB, Tom Medlin, last days to get the Arduin/SI5351 to work. Still needs some work but no more drift. Ron

Raj Yes, I was thinking of that. But for me, it is better to put it away for a few days and both of us (me and the BitX) can cool off! Joe BITX20@...> wrote:

I have 100 NP0 caps for 1000pF and 150 pf. these are surface mount. I would be happy to send some to anybody to try. Just send a SASE to me (I am good on QRZ.com). Note that I had a bit of

I used a home brew version of the DL4YHF counter, and also had noise. To get rid of it, I installed a 100uF cap. across the power connector at the counter. Put a 10mH RF choke in series with the

Here's how I fixed a noise problem many years ago. This was a bitx20a but the noise cure ought to work for about any counter. Bitx20a Kit http://golddredgervideo.com/kc0wox/bitx3/finalassembly.htm

Look in the files section for the file "DDial noise.pdf" It is one solution. As Hans notes, the major problem seems to be noise getting back into the power supply lines. ---In

I had this problem with my rig. It turned out to be a bad variable cap, C93. I replaced it with a Murata yellow cap. I would guess that any good 2-33 pF cap would do the job. It would seem that C93

Hi Chris That digital dial uses a multiplexed 7-segment LED. Even though each LED segment takes only a few mA of current, this is still relatively a high-current device. Multiplexing means that only

It could be that the T1 or T2 windings are shorted - f BITX20@...> wrote:

Hi, Now that my unit is in the enclosure I decided to power it up tonight. The QRPGuys through hole counter is also in the box. I connected headphones and turned the power on with no antenna

Joe, In the process of changing the caps you may have done some damage to neighboring parts. Please check with a magnifying glass. A torroid lead may have broken off. 73 Raj vu2zap

all true, but i store my toroids in air. when the radio is cookin', i'd bet that a toroid parked in the middle of the top ( i.e. the side with the warm resistors attached and the side where they would

The cliche that "heat rises" refers only to heated air. Heat in solid materials moves in any direction that is lower in temperature. Heat in radiant form (long and shortwave IR) moves in whatever