At these prices hfsignals is not making much of a profit per unit.

I can not agree this. No seller can not do business without much profit. Please note HF signal never refund? .(I think)

Thanks and regards

Sudanthiram

VU2NSK

That strikes me as unethical.

Luckily I purchased everything on a card with purchase protection that covers damage to products within 120 days of purchase, so I may just submit a claim and repurchase the kit new. Kind of the unsophisticated way out, but I probably do not have the experience necessary to diagnose and repair the radio. I¡¯ll check these items and see if I can¡¯t get it working, but I may just chalk this up as a loss. Thank you for the educated insight on the issue - very much appreciated!

best,

Gus
W9SSN

Roger,

Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and
brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible.

Do the same for the Raduino RF out to the mother board.

All the long wires will add to the tuning click problem.

Raj

At 08-09-19, you wrote:

Thank you Vic.? The antenna is a 30¡¯ vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say is a design feature.

All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections necessary to get a signal that I¡¯m thinking that the DDS board is faulty.

Picture of unit below.

Roger

On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic WA4THR via Groups.Io < vhklein@...> wrote:

The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning. Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your liking.

So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?

=Vic=

?

Trying not to veer too far off topic, but I remember seeing that resurected heathkit site several years ago, before they had any products to offer. It does look like they got it off the ground.

As another of those hams who started their operating experience with an HW-16 (circa 1976), and then upgraded to an HW-101, I still, to this day, appreciate what Heath stood for eons ago.

On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 06:59 PM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:

Here's a 2018 treatment of T/R switches by W7ZOI, the Kang approach is figure 1:
? ??

A quick look at this article looks very good. I'm in the process of learning the Eagle Schematic capture and PCB design package. That package includes Ngspice. I can use the LTSpice schematic included in the article as a practice exercise for learning Eagle and Ngspice. As well as more about the operation of the T/R switch.

Just a thought though, if you were willing to comprise a little attenuation of the receive signal into the receive circuit and waste a little heat in a resistor while transmitting, maybe just using a resistor to limit the current flowing into the back to back diodes and a series resistor to the input of the receive circuit to keep the current there well below what would damage the receiver input, would work. That would work for a multi band transceiver.?

If you don't force the input of the receiver first stage to be 50 ohms and let it be significantly higher, the main resistor from the antenna connector to the back-to-back diodes could be a fairly high resistance. At HF the noise contributed by the receiver first stage is low compared to the main source of atmospheric noise, so a little signal loss wold not be a problem. (Of course, the answer to this is probably already covered in some part of these linked articles I have not read yet.)

I image there are receivers out there that don't bother to to supply 50 ohms, on receive, to the antenna terminal. I wonder how far you could deviate before the coax could create a 1/4 wave notch filter. I'm sure I'd end up cutting my coax just to the length so it would be a perfect 1/4 wave length at my favorite net's frequency.

Tom, wb6b

Thank you Vic.? The antenna is a 30?€? vertical connected with RG213.? I have tried several aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the tuning, whether the aerial is connected or not.? The display does indicate a frequency as you tune, although the range varies which you say is a design feature.

All the loose ends are taped as suggested in the online walk through.? I should have waited before buying the metal case which ended up costing more that the boards!? There are few connections necessary to get a signal that I?€?m thinking that the DDS board is faulty.

Picture of unit below.

Roger

On 8 Sep 2019, at 10:39 am, Vic WA4THR via Groups.Io < vhklein@...> wrote:

The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like the tuning is the bandspread control and at the ends you are adjusting the main tuning. Also, with no antenna connected the "clicks" when tuning are typical. If you upgrade to the Allard Munter sketch, those will be largely eliminated and you can further adjust the tuning range to your liking.

So, some more information is needed to understand the issue. What antenna do you have on the radio? Does the display indicate frequencies as you tune? Can you post a picture of the board and wiring?

=Vic=

?