Re: Bring usb port out to the panel?
#ubitx
Googling "USB mini right angle extension cable" returned many hits.? The ones I saw were not panel mount but hot glue makes everything panel mount.
|
Re: Bring usb port out to the panel?
#ubitx
I've got my encoder in about the same spot and the plug is right up against the back of it, but it fits.
Dan, W2DLC
|
Re: #ubitx-help Getting WSJT-X running on the Pi3
#ubitx-help
|
Re: Bring usb port out to the panel?
#ubitx
If only the small plug was right angle, it would be perfect for me. My encoder is about a inch away and the straight one would hit it. I have never found a right angle in that style of plug.
Joel
N6ALT
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have you done a new vfo for the ubitx ? i have your bitx 40 vfo andwanted to see if you updated ?
|
Raj's response seems to be more on target, post 46601
Also Dexter's post about filtering the 12v power supply line to the Raduino.
This may be firmware issue but I doubt it.
The original firmware for the Bitx40 as shipped did not have a problem with tuning ticks.
About a year ago, the Etherkit library was changed to reset the si5351 PLL whenever the frequency changed,
and that definitely caused clicks when tuning.? If you happened to update firmware within the month or
so time period when the problematic Etherkit library was out, then yes you may have firmware
that is causing tuning clicks.? As of last summer, Allard's code no longer uses the Etherkit library.
Regardless, it's a very good idea to update your Bitx40 to Allard's latest firmware.
I'd recommend the v2 firmware, though it does require a few simple hardware mods
that Allard's v1 firmware does not need.? ?
Jerry, KE7ER
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, Apr 17, 2018 at 06:07 am, SaMa photo SaMa photo wrote:
Sergio,
I am reprinting Marco KG5RPT post here.
----------------begin quote ----------
?
This has to do with the SI5351 library.? Upgrade the software to Allard's version and the issue should go away.
A lot of work was put into the software to resolve this and many other issues.
?
|
Sergio,
You are hearing the LOOP refresh of the nano controlling the SI chip.
What is strange is that you can hear it with the
volume control disconnected.
Try to add some capacitors to the audio amps power supply line and see.
It should go away. The filter capacitor C110
may not be soldered properly or defective.
Raj
At 17/04/2018, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
thank you
if I find someone who helps me to load in arduino ...
For the volume wires I already tried to change road and at the end I put
a shielded cable but it does not change anything! If you remove the
three-pin socket of the volume potentiometer, you will still hear it! If
I remove the bipolar socket that connects to the Arduino, it will no
longer be heard!
Sergio
Da: [email protected] <[email protected]>
per conto di Rod Davis <km6sn@...>
Inviato: martedì 17 aprile 2018 13:51
A: [email protected]
Oggetto: Re: [BITX20] Help me! annoying ticking in the audio
#bitx40help
?
Sergio,
I am reprinting Marco KG5RPT post here.
----------------begin quote ----------
This has to do with the SI5351 library.? Upgrade the software to
Allard's version and the issue should go away.
A lot of work was put into the software to resolve this and many other
issues.
github.com
This sketch is intended as universal, standard Raduino software that
should always work, even on a unmodified out-of-the-box BITX40 + raduino
board. Without any hardware modifications the sketch provides the
standard basic LSB functionality. The sketch provides additional features
such as USB, CW ...
Hope this helps.
Marco - KG5PRT
----------------end quote ------------
Apparently Allard's software is crucial to curing this
problem.
Here's how to do it:
go to
click on green tab "Clone or download"
click on "Download ZIP"
save the file,? and unzip it
(CAN SOMEONE PLEASE PROVIDE COMPILE/LOADING INSTRUCTIONS FOR
SERGIO??)
---break---
If Allard's software does not cure it completely, you might
try making
the volume control wires shorter, and routing the volume control
wires
away from other wires.
I do not have a BITX40 - I have a uBITX, so I cannot go
through all the steps
to test this out. However, the above process should cure the
problem.
Saluti,
Rod KM6SN
On 04/15/2018 12:05 PM,
infosamaphoto@...
wrote:
good evening
I finished assembling my bitx40 but I have a very annoying problem of
ticking on the volume.
I can not explain well and then I made a video
Thank you
Greetings IU2KOI Sergio
sorry for my English
|
thank you
if I find someone who helps me to load in arduino ...
For the volume wires I already tried to change road and at the end I put a shielded cable but it does not change anything! If you remove the three-pin socket of the volume potentiometer, you will still hear it! If I remove the bipolar socket that connects
to the Arduino, it will no longer be heard!
Sergio
Sergio,
I am reprinting Marco KG5RPT post here.
----------------begin quote ----------
This has to do with the SI5351 library.? Upgrade the software to Allard's version and the issue should go away.
A lot of work was put into the software to resolve this and many other issues.
|
|
github.com
This sketch is intended as universal, standard Raduino software that should always work, even on a unmodified out-of-the-box BITX40 + raduino board. Without any hardware modifications the sketch provides the standard basic LSB functionality. The sketch provides
additional features such as USB, CW ...
|
Hope this helps.
----------------end quote ------------
Apparently Allard's software is crucial to curing this problem.
Here's how to do it:
go to
click on green tab "Clone or download"
click on "Download ZIP"
save the file,? and unzip it
(CAN SOMEONE PLEASE PROVIDE COMPILE/LOADING INSTRUCTIONS FOR SERGIO??)
---break---
If Allard's software does not cure it completely, you might try making
the volume control wires shorter, and routing the volume control wires
away from other wires.
I do not have a BITX40 - I have a uBITX, so I cannot go through all the steps
to test this out. However, the above process should cure the problem.
Saluti,
Rod KM6SN
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
good evening
I finished assembling my bitx40 but I have a very annoying problem of ticking on the volume.
I can not explain well and then I made a video?
Thank you
Greetings IU2KOI Sergio
sorry for my English
|
Sorry, thought that was direct to me Dave, ? You have to be signed in to this group and then you will be able to access the "Files" menu. ?Search on what you want and you should be able to find it (assuming it's there).
Jim - W0EB
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 4/17/2018 7:20:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Stupid Question
If you're talking about my website, it's w0eb.com but it isn't operational yet. ?Otherwise, you have to sign in to [email protected] and go to their "files" section and search for W0EB or W2CTX.
Jim
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 4/17/2018 7:02:31 AM
Subject: [BITX20] Stupid Question
What is the internet URL address for the BITX files downloads?
Thanks, Dave KD1NA
|
Buongiorno
no! non c è nessun tv o cellulare vicino!
ho provato ad alimentarlo con due alimentatori stabilizzati uno da 12V 2A e l' altro 12V 5A lineare e non cambia nulla!
?
Poi mi sono accorto che sia con l' antenna attaccata che senza antenna non riceve nulla!?
Grazie
Sergio
Ciao a tutti,
Buongiorno Sergio, vicino alla tua radio c'è qualche TV collegata, un caricabatterie per cellulare o una recinzione elettrica? Le tue fonti sono con o senza trasformatore? Questa interferenza mi sembra un apparato che ho citato.
Buona fortuna e buon divertimento.
Saulo Belo
PY7EG
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks for the reply
it's maybe the first thing I did! I tried to feed it with two different stabilized power supplies! 12V 2A and 12V 5A but does not change anything!
Tested with antenna and without antenna but does not change anything! I also realized that he receives nothing! The antenna to try was just a piece of wire, just to try the reception!
If I disconnect the bipolar raduino plug, the noise disappears! If I disconnect the three-pole potentiometer plug, the noise remains.
I do not know what to do... :-'(
Sergio? IU2KOI
Have you made sure that the interference is coming from inside
the BITX and not from some external source?? Moving the BITX
to another location or using a battery power source could help
determine if the problem is internal or external.
Removing the antenna connection and shorting the antenna terminals
can help to determine if the clicks are internal or external.? Just be
sure that you do not attempt to transmit while the antenna is shorted.
Static build up on the antenna can cause clicks as the charge is
discharged by arcing.? A 47K ohm resister across the antenna
terminals can bleed off static build up without interfering with antenna
impedance, if this is the problem.
Arv? K7HKL
_._
|
Re: FS:Sota Beams Variable Filter Break-out
2 remaining -- David
?N8DAH
|
Re: Bring usb port out to the panel?
#ubitx
Thanks guys, found it
73
Mike N2HTT
|
If you're talking about my website, it's w0eb.com but it isn't operational yet. ?Otherwise, you have to sign in to [email protected] and go to their "files" section and search for W0EB or W2CTX.
Jim
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 4/17/2018 7:02:31 AM
Subject: [BITX20] Stupid Question
What is the internet URL address for the BITX files downloads?
Thanks, Dave KD1NA
|
What is the internet URL address for the BITX files downloads?
Thanks, Dave KD1NA
|
Re: before purchase #ubitx and Signalink USB
#ubitx
Also, what Ron said about just wiring direct audio connections, then using ?CAT control to do the push to talk should also work. ? I sort of like having some transformers in between, ?and some external volume controls but to each his own.
In the previous tutorial, Siri added “chaperones” after the ferrites, but that was not intended. ??
If you’re going to use cat control to the nano, I would recommend shielding that as well as possible and a lot of ferrites .... ?i’ve had a lot of trouble with radio frequency interference to that connection.
I’m fairly busy, so I haven’t gotten to use my bitx40 & uBitx ‘s as much as I would like, but many WINLINK connections with it.
On Apr 17, 2018, at 07:37, Gordon Gibby < ggibby@...> wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Well, I didn’t know there was a need for a tutorial!
So let’s make one right here.
The easydigi route is cheaper than the signal link however the same idea works. ?This is basic point to point wiring for the most part, but it’s great practice for new hams to understand how signals coming in and out of their transceivers work.
You’re going to need to have the speaker output from the bitx, so find a way to get a wire coming out from a speaker output (we will call it SPEAKER)?and GROUND.
you’re going to also need a wire to the microphone input of the BITX, call that MIC?
finally you’re going to need a wire to the push to talk of the bitx and we will call that PTT
Now go buy a short Ethernet (modular plugs, 8 contacts on each) Cable, maybe 5 feet long, if you get the chance, use cat five, because it will have a shield/ground wire. ?
Cut off one of the modular plugs, & bring out the fancy colored wires.
Make the following connections:
GROUND from bitx connects ?to the solid orange wire AND to the shield wire if there is one
PTT from bitx Connects to the green white wire
MIC from bitx connects to the orange-white wire
SPEAKER connects to the blue-white wire.?
All the other brightly colored wires from the ethernet goes nowhere.
You have now successfully wired up a interconnection wire, that would cost you about $20 to buy commercial. If you have any ferrite chaperones, but a couple on this anywhere you like, and then put three loops 3” in diameter also, and secure those loops
with some zip tie or some tape. ?The loops work the same as the ferrites, they are both creating common mode inductance to stop unwanted RF current flowing on these wires.
The remaining task is to properly install the jumpers on the internal connection block inside the signal link. ?This is actually very easy. Using a hexagonal “Allen “ wrench, disassemble the signalink so you can get it in the circuitboard.
Find a little dual in line (DIP)socket towards the rear where the jumpers go.
Make the jumper configuration look like this:
MIC goes to pin one
GND goes to pin 2
PTT goes to pin 3
SPEAKER goes to pin 5.?
Notice that we skipped pin 4. ? Don’t wire ?any of the PWR wires to go anywhere. We don’t need them.
That’s it! You’re done! Signal link is now configured, and interconnection cable is now built. ?Maybe 10 to 30 minutes worth of work depending on your familiarity.
So that you will know, the connection set up that you just did for the signalink will now work with a whole host of commercial cables that are intended for the very popular six pin DIN interface used on almost all recent vintage ICOM YAESU, Kenwood transceivers.
?it will also work with the commercially available cable to go to the baofeng s. ? ?Not a bad choice huh ? ??
With a bit of a grin, we call it the Alachua County ARES standard. ?and we wire all of our signal links or signalink replacements, exact same way, so everyone can use each other‘s equipment as long as they have a cable built for their radio.
Bernhard,
I don't know if there is a tutorial explaining how to connect a signal link-USB to a uBitX. Sorry OM.
|
Sergio,
I am reprinting Marco KG5RPT post here.
----------------begin quote ----------
This has to do with the SI5351 library.? Upgrade the
software to Allard's version and the issue should go away.
A lot of work was put into the software to resolve this and
many other issues.
Hope this helps.
----------------end quote ------------
Apparently Allard's software is crucial to curing
this problem.
Here's how to do it:
go to
click on green tab "Clone or download"
click on "Download ZIP"
save the file,? and unzip it
(CAN SOMEONE PLEASE PROVIDE COMPILE/LOADING
INSTRUCTIONS FOR SERGIO??)
---break---
If Allard's software does not cure it completely,
you might try making
the volume control wires shorter, and routing the volume control
wires
away from other wires.
I do not have a BITX40 - I have a uBITX, so I
cannot go through all the steps
to test this out. However, the above process should cure the
problem.
Saluti,
Rod KM6SN
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
good evening
I finished assembling my bitx40 but I have a very annoying
problem of ticking on the volume.
I can not explain well and then I made a
video?
Thank you
Greetings IU2KOI Sergio
sorry for my English
|
Ciao a tutti,
Buongiorno Sergio, vicino alla tua radio c'è qualche TV collegata, un caricabatterie per cellulare o una recinzione elettrica? Le tue fonti sono con o senza trasformatore? Questa interferenza mi sembra un apparato che ho citato.
Buona fortuna e buon divertimento.
Saulo Belo
PY7EG
Thanks for the reply
it's maybe the first thing I did! I tried to feed it with two different stabilized power supplies! 12V 2A and 12V 5A but does not change anything!
Tested with antenna and without antenna but does not change anything! I also realized that he receives nothing! The antenna to try was just a piece of wire, just to try the reception!
If I disconnect the bipolar raduino plug, the noise disappears! If I disconnect the three-pole potentiometer plug, the noise remains.
I do not know what to do... :-'(
Sergio? IU2KOI
Have you made sure that the interference is coming from inside
the BITX and not from some external source?? Moving the BITX
to another location or using a battery power source could help
determine if the problem is internal or external.
Removing the antenna connection and shorting the antenna terminals
can help to determine if the clicks are internal or external.? Just be
sure that you do not attempt to transmit while the antenna is shorted.
Static build up on the antenna can cause clicks as the charge is
discharged by arcing.? A 47K ohm resister across the antenna
terminals can bleed off static build up without interfering with antenna
impedance, if this is the problem.
Arv? K7HKL
_._
|
Re: before purchase #ubitx and Signalink USB
#ubitx
Well, I didn’t know there was a need for a tutorial!
So let’s make one right here.
The easydigi route is cheaper than the signal link however the same idea works. ?This is basic point to point wiring for the most part, but it’s great practice for new hams to understand how signals coming in and out of their transceivers work.
You’re going to need to have the speaker output from the bitx, so find a way to get a wire coming out from a speaker output (we will call it SPEAKER)?and GROUND.
you’re going to also need a wire to the microphone input of the BITX, call that MIC?
finally you’re going to need a wire to the push to talk of the bitx and we will call that PTT
Now go buy a short Ethernet (modular plugs, 8 contacts on each) Cable, maybe 5 feet long, if you get the chance, use cat five, because it will have a shield/ground wire. ?
Cut off one of the modular plugs, & bring out the fancy colored wires.
Make the following connections:
GROUND from bitx connects ?to the solid orange wire AND to the shield wire if there is one
PTT from bitx Connects to the green white wire
MIC from bitx connects to the orange-white wire
SPEAKER connects to the blue-white wire.?
All the other brightly colored wires from the ethernet goes nowhere.
You have now successfully wired up a interconnection wire, that would cost you about $20 to buy commercial. If you have any ferrite chaperones, but a couple on this anywhere you like, and then put three loops 3” in diameter also, and secure those loops
with some zip tie or some tape. ?The loops work the same as the ferrites, they are both creating common mode inductance to stop unwanted RF current flowing on these wires.
The remaining task is to properly install the jumpers on the internal connection block inside the signal link. ?This is actually very easy. Using a hexagonal “Allen “ wrench, disassemble the signalink so you can get it in the circuitboard.
Find a little dual in line (DIP)socket towards the rear where the jumpers go.
Make the jumper configuration look like this:
MIC goes to pin one
GND goes to pin 2
PTT goes to pin 3
SPEAKER goes to pin 5.?
Notice that we skipped pin 4. ? Don’t wire ?any of the PWR wires to go anywhere. We don’t need them.
That’s it! You’re done! Signal link is now configured, and interconnection cable is now built. ?Maybe 10 to 30 minutes worth of work depending on your familiarity.
So that you will know, the connection set up that you just did for the signalink will now work with a whole host of commercial cables that are intended for the very popular six pin DIN interface used on almost all recent vintage ICOM YAESU, Kenwood transceivers.
?it will also work with the commercially available cable to go to the baofeng s. ? ?Not a bad choice huh ? ??
With a bit of a grin, we call it the Alachua County ARES standard. ?and we wire all of our signal links or signalink replacements, exact same way, so everyone can use each other‘s equipment as long as they have a cable built for their radio.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bernhard,
I don't know if there is a tutorial explaining how to connect a signal link-USB to a uBitX. Sorry OM.
|
Thanks for the reply
it's maybe the first thing I did! I tried to feed it with two different stabilized power supplies! 12V 2A and 12V 5A but does not change anything!
Tested with antenna and without antenna but does not change anything! I also realized that he receives nothing! The antenna to try was just a piece of wire, just to try the reception!
If I disconnect the bipolar raduino plug, the noise disappears! If I disconnect the three-pole potentiometer plug, the noise remains.
I do not know what to do... :-'(
Sergio? IU2KOI
Have you made sure that the interference is coming from inside
the BITX and not from some external source?? Moving the BITX
to another location or using a battery power source could help
determine if the problem is internal or external.
Removing the antenna connection and shorting the antenna terminals
can help to determine if the clicks are internal or external.? Just be
sure that you do not attempt to transmit while the antenna is shorted.
Static build up on the antenna can cause clicks as the charge is
discharged by arcing.? A 47K ohm resister across the antenna
terminals can bleed off static build up without interfering with antenna
impedance, if this is the problem.
Arv? K7HKL
_._
|
FS:Sota Beams Variable Filter Break-out
Made this for my LaserBeam Variable Filter
R1/R2/R3 = 220R
R4/R5/R6/R7 = 10K
C1/C2 = 10n
OVR = RA2 Red
CN = RA7?? Yellow
BW = RB13? Green
U1 is a L7805 for 5V instead of letting the laserbeam regulator do all the work. I also added a 5V tap for other items such as audio amp for speakers. (after thought should have placed U1 in a different place for heatsink at 12V)
J3 is Vin square - circle +
J4 reading from the square pin
????????????????????????? Pin 1 RC7
????????????????????????? Pin 2 Gnd
????????????????????????? Pin 3 RC6
????????????????????????? Pin 4 Gnd
????????????????????????? Pin 5 RB7
J1 and J2 are for the main board of the Laserbeam J1 to J1 of the break-out, J5 of the laserbeam to J2 of the break (see pic)
Error: Audio in and out grounds are not connected
Tested and working, I have not testing the other laserbeam filters only the Variable CW/SSB
?
7$ Shipped CONUS only please.
Not parts PCB only
Email me direct I only have 4 spare paypal preference
?
  
--
David
?N8DAH
|
Vince N2AIE
Joel Caulkins/N6ALT
Raj vu2zap
Jim Sheldon
N8DAH
Michael Aiello
