Respectfully -

If you wire the positive output of the 2822 to both the tip and ring
terminal on the TRS jack and the ground lead to the sleeve terminal and
then plug in a mono plug you *will* short the positive lead from the
2822 to ground.

Wiring the ground to the ring lead is *NOT* what the wiring
instructions for the ubitx show. It shows wiring the positive lead from
the 2822 to both the tip and the ring lead. That will be a potential
disaster for anyone plugging in a mono plug.

If you wire the ground lead to the ring terminal then how is a stereo
plug going to work? There will be no ground connected to the sleeve
lead of the headset.

I am going to use one of my mono jacks. Then I don't have to worry
about how the jack is wired. If I need a mono-stereo adapter I have
several. In fact, the headphones I use most often have a mono-stereo
switch built in.

tim ab0wr




On Fri, 2 Mar 2018 16:14:50 -0500
"Vince Vielhaber" <vev@...> wrote:

No, you missed the point. It's not in bridge mode, so one side is
already ground. If you hook the ground up to the ring and not the
sleeve, the sleeve will get ground in a mono plug but both speakers
in a stereo headset will get sound. No need to butcher headphone
cables or buy an adapter, gold or otherwise. Just wire it right.
Shit, you got a ham ticket and you managed to wire up your bitx, you
should be able to wire up a headphone jack - "you" not necessarily
referring to you, Tim, rather whoever is setting it up.

Vince.



On 03/02/2018 11:07 AM, Tim Gorman wrote:

Vince,

You missed the point. If you wire the tda2822 to both the tip and
the ring and then plug in a mono headphone you *will*, in almost
every case, short the output of the tda2822 to ground via the ring
lead.

You will melt the tda2822 sooner or later by doing so - plus get
nothing in the headphone.

tim ab0wr

On Thu, 1 Mar 2018 23:22:48 -0500
"Vince Vielhaber" <vev@...> wrote:

Ever cut the connector off of a pair of them and try to wire on a
new one? The point, that you obviously missed, wasn't that
headphones are cheap, it's that there's no reason to do what Tim
was suggesting and that you can wire up to the tip and ring and
have it work with both stereo and mono headphones.

Vince.



On 03/01/2018 11:17 PM, Thomas Sharka via Groups.Io wrote:

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Headset For Phones | eBay
<>

Headphones are cheap. You can find them at the Dollar Store.
$ 0.99




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Headset For Ph...

Headset Type: In-Ear. Connection: 3.5 mm Stereo Plug. Cable
Length: 110cm/43.30"(Approx.). High quality in ...


<>




Sent from Yahoo Mail. Get the app <>


On Thursday, March 1, 2018 11:12 PM, Vince Vielhaber
<vev@...> wrote:



So you're saying that if I want to use a pair of stereo
headphones I have around here I should cut the connector off of
it and wire it up to a mono plug? Yeah... I'll get right on
that.

Vince.


On 03/01/2018 10:49 PM, Tim Gorman wrote:

If you insert a mono plug into a TRS jack the ring terminal of
the jack is almost always shorted to ground (i.e. the sleeve).
If you wire the output of the 2822 to both the tip and ring
terminals and then insert a mono plug there simply isn't any
doubt that you are probably going to short the output of the
2822 to ground. Bad things will happen.

There is no reason to wire the output of the 2822 to both the tip
and the ring terminals. If you have a stereo headset then wire
both headset leads to tip of the plug and only wire up the tip
lead on the socket. Then if someone inadvertently plugs in a mono
plug you won't short the output of the 2822 to ground.

I agree that the large charging current going into the 470uf cap
could stress the 2822, perhaps only causing a failure after a
number of on/off cycles. That's something that would be hard to
diagnose!

I have modified my schematic to show using a 47uf cap being fed
with a 1 amp fuse from the 2822. If I ever get a chance to
actually finish up my ubitx it will be interesting to see if the
1 amp fuse is sufficient.

tim ab0wr

On Thu, 01 Mar 2018 15:39:50 -0800
"Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io" <jgaffke@...

<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

And subsequent replies have suggested this may not be
sufficient.

Some seem to fry when plugging something into the headphone jack
even if there is no short to ground involved. Or when powering
up the rig. Our best guess now is that there are significant
currents involved when that 470uF cap suddenly has to charge up
to Vcc/2 And that some clone TDA2822's may be weaker than
mainline manufacturers.

On Thu, Mar 1, 2018 at 03:31 pm, Christopher Miller wrote:

One of the first replies suggested not wiring the ring, and
using a mono to stereo adapter cable if stereo headphones are
required.

--
Michigan VHF Corp.
<>
<>
<>

I finished a BitX20 Ver3 some weeks ago and opted to go the analogue VFO route.?After a decent warmup it sits rock stable during a QSO and I've listened in to 20 min ragchews without having to touch the dial. Sure, you have to be careful with choice of caps and how you wind & mount the VFO inductor but it's not that hard and I reckon it's way more gratifying that using a synthesized version. I greatly improved stability by eliminating the trimmer caps from the original circuit.? Varactors have made design and set up a lot easier too. I'd be happy to pass on details.?

On Fri, Mar 2, 2018 at 03:50 pm, Clark Martin wrote:

You could use the second audio amp in U1. ?The TDA2822 is a dual amplifier. ?What you’d need to do is this:

?

Remove R75

Connect U1-6 to VOL-H. ?This will give you an auxiliary sound output that is independent of the volume control.

Connect the + terminal of a 470 ?F, 16V electrolytic capacitor to U1-3.

Connect the - terminal of the above cap to your auxiliary out mini jack.

?

The 470 ?F could very likely be much smaller, depending on the input impedance of your Signal Link.

Experiment, it won’t hurt.

?

You may also want to add a resistor divider between the cap and jack to reduce the signal strength, depending on how much your Signal Link can tolerate.

?

Considering the problem others are having with the TDA2822 you probably should add a resistor in series with the cap, unless you implement the resistor voltage divider, that will provide the same protection.

Clark Martin

KK6ISP

On Mar 2, 2018, at 10:20 AM, Walter <W9KJO@...> wrote:

On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 09:47 am, Richie Chambless wrote:

Yes, the yellow wire is the full signal from the product detector. Check your volume potentiometer to ensure it’s connected to the end (orange should be on middle lug). I would think your external amplifier has a capacitor input on it, so I don’t think another cap is necessary. Check to see if DC is present across the volume pot when the side tone is activated.

Ok The yellow wire does not have enough audio for my Signal Link to work with.? it showed some signals.? I have to reconnect to the 3.5mm Audio Out jack and turn the volume up about half way.? which is too loud for my headphones so I need to install a second 3.5mm for my Head Phones.??

I would be much better if I could find a way to get enough audio separate from the actual audio out to the 3.5mm jack

I noticed that the audio IC was dual channel.? I may try this mod.? I'm not an EE so how would you set up a resistor divider?? I can't design but I can certainly follow a schematic and home brew from there. So any specific instructions would help me greatly.?

BTW, the suggestions and mods on this forum have been excellent.? A hardy thank you to all!!!!? :)

?
--
73, W9KJO
Walter

I set up a signal link.? I like signal links.? they are easy to work with.? I also rigged up a cooling fan on a thermo switch to cool the finals.
--
73, W9KJO
Walter

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A really good non-drifting VFO means lots of work!

Mica Caps and Inductors that don't change.

It is just not worth it?? You get to decide.

Just FIX the Raduino, and you will be much happier and save lots of hours of circuit changes.

But, you will learn a lot more about what is going on with the old VFO.

It is all good to learn about Stuff,? probably no one is going to complain because you are drifting.

At the cost of things, it is not about trying to be cheap.

It is a fun learning thing.

73's

Mike, WA6ISP

Justin:

There is something to be said for fixing the radiuno.
The resulting signal is much more stable than an
"ordinary" analog VFO.

That being said, there is nothing wrong with using an analog VFO.
Designing a very good one is always one of the great challenges
faced by any ham.

The BITX40 came originally with an analog VFO -- it is easy to
"reinstate" it if one does not wish to use the raduino. Look at the
original circuit diagram and you will see the VFO and BFO around
the center. The VFO is Q8 and Q9 and associated circuitry; the
BFO is Q10. Note that there is a place for a DDS connection.
This is where the raduino connects. If that connection is not made,
one merely has to make sure the rest of the circuitry is in place.
Usually L4 and D0, possibly C91 and C92 are disabled. It is a
simple matter to put them back to active status.

It is also possible (I have not checked this) that the newer BITX40 rigs
come with the analog VFO already enabled, and will work just by wiring them
up. This VFO is known to be somewhat drifty, and one can think of ways to
make it better, e.g., replacing C91 and C92 with known C0G units. One can also
experiment with the cap values and see what effect that has on the rig. Etc.

The files section has diagrams of the earlier rigs, such as the BITX v.3. These 
had analog VFO'S as well and are quite educational to look at and copy.

As always, if you don't know the answer, ask the question...that is always the best
first step. The files section of this list is a very rich resource. Look it over well.
Check out the magnificent work of F8VOA.

Hope this helps.

john
AD5YE

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Justin:

There is something to be said for fixing the radiuno.
The resulting signal is much more stable than an
"ordinary" analog VFO.

That being said, there is nothing wrong with using an analog VFO.
Designing a very good one is always one of the great challenges
faced by any ham.

The BITX40 came originally with an analog VFO -- it is easy to
"reinstate" it if one does not wish to use the raduino. Look at the
original circuit diagram and you will see the VFO and BFO around
the center. The VFO is Q8 and Q9 and associated circuitry; the
BFO is Q10. Note that there is a place for a DDS connection.
This is where the raduino connects. If that connection is not made,
one merely has to make sure the rest of the circuitry is in place.
Usually L4 and D0, possibly C91 and C92 are disabled. It is a
simple matter to put them back to active status.

It is also possible (I have not checked this) that the newer BITX40 rigs
come with the analog VFO already enabled, and will work just by wiring them
up. This VFO is known to be somewhat drifty, and one can think of ways to
make it better, e.g., replacing C91 and C92 with known C0G units. One can also
experiment with the cap values and see what effect that has on the rig. Etc.

The files section has diagrams of the earlier rigs, such as the BITX v.3. These
had analog VFO'S as well and are quite educational to look at and copy.

As always, if you don't know the answer, ask the question...that is always the best
first step. The files section of this list is a very rich resource. Look it over well.
Check out the magnificent work of F8VOA.

Hope this helps.

john
AD5YE

Hi Justin, a group of friends and I have come up with a much improved board we call the "RadI2Cino", pronounced "Rad ee too SEE no".? We had a few for sale earlier to test the waters and the few we had made went really fast.? The latest order of new boards is on it's way from China and we'll probably be opening up the order window again within the next 2 to 3 weeks? I need to get the boards in hand and build one up from my instruction manual to make sure everything matches then we'll have a bunch of them available.? I'll make that announcement here on this reflector and probably also in the uBITX Group on Facebook.

It's an almost direct drop-in replacement with the exception of the necessity to add at least 1 (preferrably 2) pushbutton switches and an extra key jack for the hand key (alternatively you can make up a special cable and plug it in place of the microphone (it will use the PTT terminal from the mic).?

The only thing is that it uses the I2C bus for display (either 2 or 4 line I2C LCD's) and there is no provision for a standard parallel display board.? We did this so we could use those digital I/O lines the display hogged to implement a really decent CW engine.? It's totally interrupt driven, which also allowed us to implement CAT control that doesn't interfere with CW operation? Unlike what Ian Lee did, we chose to use a subset of the Kenwood TS590S PC Commands rather than Yaesu's FT817 commands, so we wouldn't accidentally interfere with the nice work he has done in his versions.?

Also, we aren't trying to compete with Ian in any way and hope we don't step on his toes.? We designed the card and software to run it mainly for for our own benefit, trying to make a very good radio into something even better and it's turning out good enough we are choosing to share it with the more adventurous of you that are not afraid to get their hands dirty and make a few really simple hardware mods to their uBITX radios.?

We've been pretty quiet about it - only releasing several older versions of our software while working on the really fancy stuff.? This has kept the clutter down to the point where we've been able to really work on integrating the software and hardware of the RadI2Cino and not had to field a lot of questions on it. ??

Basically, all the folks just getting their uBITX radios should endeavor to get them running first so they can learn how things are before they do any mods.? One of the problems with the 2nd and 3rd batches (yes the are shipping from batch 3 now from the serial numbers I'm seeing posted by those who have just received their radios in the last day or so) is they seem to have used a bad batch of the TDA2822M audio chips and they are blowing right and left.? I had 2 pop on me since last Monday.? I've since changed a capacitor and added a 5 ohm 1 watt resistor in the speaker lead to help prevent this from happening again. (See other threads for the suggested solutions to the problem.)

Because the way we configured the digital I/O on our "RadI2Cino" card, for now, only software we release for it will run on it.? The software is open source like everyone else's so far and a good programmer can easily see what we did when we release it.? As for the RadI2Cino cards, the manual that will come with them has complete schematics, board layouts and a comprehensive "build it" section so it, like the uBITX and everything associated with is readily "Hackable" for those who take the time to learn how it works.? We're not being stingy with any information on the card and the only thing copyrighted is the board layout and the "Gerber" files to produce them.? The Gerber files for the RadI2Cino boards will not be made available so please don't even ask.

That's about all I'm going to say right now but look for new and fancy things coming down the pike.?

Again, I'll announce the availability of the RadI2Cino and the latest software for it here in this group first (in a couple of weeks most likely).

Jim Sheldon,? W0EB? for myself, Ron Pfeiffer, W2CTX and Jim Giammanco, N5IB

Purchased 30 Dec of 2017 std shipping

--

oldnormanbates@...

They fit snug on the bitx40 shafts with my printer settings. If it comes out too tight reduce the filament, or too loose then increase the filament feed rate.?

So.I had the radii working great. Then somehow I accidentally fried by nano. I desoldered nano and replaced uploaded new firmware, and I only get black squares on lcd. Tuning knobs does nothing.?

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How about, It is not worth going backwards?

Fix the Raduino.?? What is "mucked up" with it?

Let us help fix it, Digital is Better!

73's Mike

So a while back I mucked up by Raduino for the Bitx40. Now instead of spending more money on the Bitx40, I decided maybe I'll just try an analog vfo.
Now, I have zero idea how to do this. I am a pretty new ham. I have had trouble searching through messages to find real instructions on how to build an analog vfo for the Bitx40 that came with a Raduino.

Any insight would be great.

Thanks,
Justin
KN4FAW

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

So a while back I mucked up by Raduino for the Bitx40. Now instead of spending more money on the Bitx40, I decided maybe I'll just try an analog vfo.
Now, I have zero idea how to do this. I am a pretty new ham. I have had trouble searching through messages to find real instructions on how to build an analog vfo for the Bitx40 that came with a Raduino.

Any insight would be great.

Thanks,
Justin
KN4FAW

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Your Tuning Knob?
Really Modern looking.
Don't see set screw hole?

Simplify3D loaded it fine.

TNX
Mike








On 3/2/2018 2:48 PM, davesters@... wrote:

Here are my stl files.
Both printed? with 3 layers of wall thickness 20% infill. I use .3mm layer height.

They should be a direct fit without scaling.

I generally use Repetier Host and choose Sli3er as the slicer.

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

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It depends on his Cura software setup.? I don't have to scale using Simplify3D.

The stl files are created by Solidworks and are standard.

There are lots of YouTube Videos on Cura for him to watch.

I use 40% and ABS at 225D with bed at 110D.

Every one has to adjust things to get satisfying results.

3D printing is sometimes really "iffy"!

Thanks for the files.? I will try them.

Mike

Here are my stl files.
Both printed? with 3 layers of wall thickness 20% infill. I use .3mm layer height.

They should be a direct fit without scaling.

I generally use Repetier Host and choose Sli3er as the slicer.

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

I ordered January 2nd.? It shipped February 28th and arrived at? my home in Tennessee today, March 2nd.? Serial number n376/3.

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Hint:? You may need to open up the serial port tab in the IDE and set the baud rate to 57600!? THEN it should work.

Ron W7HD

Mike,

Once the Arduino IDE opens up and you can see all the code, make sure you have the Raduino plugged into a USB port and then go to the upper tab named 'Tools" and choose "Board" then select Arduino Nano. Next, goto "Tools" and select "Port", now select your USB port you have the Raduino plugged into. Now you are ready to see if the code will compile. Click the check mark in the upper left hand corner and wait until it finishes saying 'compiling sketch'. If everything is okay it will report 'Done compiling'. If you have made it this far you are ready to upload the new firmware to your Raduino. Now click the --> button at the top of the window and it should upload the Sketch into the Arduino. When it's done it will say 'Upload complete' and you are good to go. Let us know how you get on.

Joel
N6ALT

-- 
W7HD - NAQCC#7587 OMISS#9898 KX3#6966 LinuxUser#415320

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