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New file uploaded to [email protected]

[email protected] Notification
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.

File: ubitx_V2_01R.zip

Uploaded By: Jim Sheldon

Description:
The CW Keyer module has been completely re-written in this version. The keyer is now totally interrupt driven which helps make the transition to CW transmit much faster and it doesn't tend to clip the first dot as it did occasionally in past versions. This version also moved the DASH paddle input from the analog A7 input. It now shares the analog A3 input with the PTT line as normally PTT isn't used in CW mode and the Hand Key isn't used in CW Paddle mode or the Paddles aren't used in CW Hand Key mode so all three can share the same input easily. This gives A7 back to those wishing to use it for metering applications. Complete, illustrated documentation on everything in this release is contained in the zip file as a PDF. Menu operation has been slightly improved from V2.00R as well. We hope you enjoy using this version. Jim - W0EB and Ron - W2CTX

You can access this file at the URL:
/g/BITX20/files/ubitx_V2_01R.zip

Cheers,
The 开云体育 Team
New, incremental release W0EB/W2CTX non-I2C software V2.01R #ubitx

 

The CW Keyer module has been completely re-written in this version.? The keyer is now totally interrupt driven which helps make the transition to CW transmit much faster and it doesn't tend to clip the first dot as it did occasionally in past versions.? This version also moved the DASH paddle input from the analog A7 input.? It now shares the analog A3 input with the PTT line as normally PTT isn't used in CW mode and the Hand Key isn't used in CW Paddle mode or the Paddles aren't used in CW Hand Key mode so all three can share the same input easily.? This gives A7 back to those wishing to use it for metering applications.? Complete, illustrated documentation on everything in this release is contained in the zip file as a PDF.? Menu operation has been slightly improved from V2.00R as well.

We hope you enjoy using this version.
Jim - W0EB and Ron - W2CTX

ubitx_V2_01R.zip
ubitx_V2_01R.zip

Re: Dec 16 order of uBitx received Feb 10 via India Post

Vince Vielhaber
 

Try going to your postal site (Canada Post?) and use their tracking. I know packages from other countries destined for the US can be tracked at USPS.com.

Vince.

On 02/16/2018 09:07 AM, VE7WQ wrote:
The BITX40 ordered on Feb 16 was shipped today via India Post.

Got a tracking number, but no url where I can check it.


73! George

VE7WQ


Saturday, February 10, 2018, you wrote:

VV> utilize the rest of the stuff on the front panel for your B40.


VV> Vince.


VV> On 02/10/2018 11:09 PM, VE7WQ wrote:

Thanks Vince!
Great news. It would look nice.


73! George
VE7WQ


--
Michigan VHF Corp.

Re: Advice on selling Bitx40 on EBay

 

My 2?:

I can buy the B40 w/Raduino for $59.? I'd consider $40-50 shipped a fair price, but interest is a lot less with advent of the ?B.

The frequency counter and other displays are redundant with the Raduino, so those would probably have to sell separately, probably for about ? of what they were new.

The pot and buck converter can be had by a bargain hunter for next to nothing from China, so probably not worth trying to get rid of them.

The cookie tin choice is a little personal, so you'd have to find someone who really took a fancy to it.

Consider adding pix to this thread and entertaining offers by email.
Re: Dec 16 order of uBitx received Feb 10 via India Post

VE7WQ
 

开云体育

The BITX40 ordered on Feb 16 was shipped today via India Post.

Got a tracking number, but no url where I can check it.


73! George

VE7WQ


Saturday, February 10, 2018, you wrote:

VV> utilize the rest of the stuff on the front panel for your B40.


VV> Vince.


VV> On 02/10/2018 11:09 PM, VE7WQ wrote:

>> Thanks Vince!

>>

>> Great news. It would look nice.

>>

>>

>> 73! George

>>

>> VE7WQ

>>
Re: BITX40: Allard's Firmware with Rotary Encoder?

Jack Purdum
 

Ryan:

See if the attached encoder article is of any help. It should at least get you started playing around with the encoder.

Jack, W8TEE


From: Ryan Flowers <geocrasher@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 2:56 AM
Subject: [BITX20] BITX40: Allard's Firmware with Rotary Encoder?

Hello All,

I got Allard's Raduino sketch to compile on an Uno R3 that I'm playing with, and I also got a rotary encoder working on a test sketch, and now I need to figure out how to make Allard's sketch use the rotary encoder. I'm pretty new to Arduino (this is my first actual project aside from Blink and a few basic tests). I've figured out how to convert to an I2C display- that's easy enough, and I have a version of the sketch that does that successfully. I must be humble and admit that I don't have the time I wish I did, and I'd be better off if someone already figured out the encoder part so I could get a jump on that. I have other mods that I want to do, but Allard's code is so well featured I'd?like to start there, if possible.

Thanks for the assist and 73!
--
Ryan Flowers - W7RLF




PurdumEncoderArticle.doc
PurdumEncoderArticle.doc

Re: Smoking Genie

 

Mike,

Mesure the voltage across the resistors and you know the resistors value. Calculate :if I remember right V2/R = Voltage squared divided by resistance to get the power dissipated. That should give you some insight on why the Rs are getting hot.

Raj

At 16/02/2018, you wrote:
I have just finished chasing the smoking R141. Even after replacing the smd with an axial 1/2 watt, mounted vertically, it continued to get blazing hot after only 2-3 seconds of PTT. Be sure to check to see if it's still getting hot. After checking the obvious, rechecking all resistor values, double checking transistor voltages using Randy's chart. After replacing Q14, I still had the problem. I removed R14 again and mounted a new one, elevated like a 3 legged bug. Problem solved. My conclusion, with Q14 mounted tight to the board, there is a risk that the metal Q14 case will short to the board. An insulated spacer should be used or have been used, to keep this device up just a bit from the board. A friend suggested cutting the bottom of my case to access to the entire underside of the board. A great idea for new builders. BTW, I mounted the axial 10 ohm resistor through the tiny hole near it's original location. That connects to the bottom board foil ground, and one of my smd pa
ds were destroyed from unsoldering the burned R141.

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
Re: BITX40- tune button- no output

Jack Purdum
 

It's probably worth mentioning that the "free" A1 refers to the original BITX40 code. Line 146 in that code shows:

// #define ANALOG_KEYER (A1)

which is commented out. If you do use that pin for the purpose mentioned here, you should probably add the following line:

pinMode(ANALOG_KEYER, INPUT_PULLUP);

somewhere around line 683 after uncommenting the #define. If you are using Allard's code, he has already used A1 for the key. Steve's reference also shows this.


Jack, W8TEE

From: Steve Thatcher <stevep2p@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] BITX40- tune button- no output

Thanks Mike, but according to ,?

CONNECTING A STRAIGHT MORSE KEY or 'TUNE' BUTTON:

A straight key (or external electronic keyer) can be connected to Raduino pin A1 (connector P1, brown wire). It is recommended to install a 1K series resistor to protect the Arduino input. When the key is up (open) pin A1 will be HIGH. When the key is down (closed, shorted to ground) pin A1 will be LOW, and a carrier will be transmitted.
You could also wire up a simple push button instead of connecting a morse key. The generated CW carrier can be used for tuning up your antenna. In that case please note that you will be transmitting a carrier at full duty cycle, therefore don't keep the tune button pressed for too long to prevent overheating the final!

Am I misunderstanding something here?? Aloha, Steve
Re: Advice on selling Bitx40 on EBay

Bob Dritz
 

Thanks for the responses so far, but what I REALLY want to know is if $100 is too high or too low to expect for all this stuff?
Re: uBITX AGC - Adafruit TPA2016, A Success! #ubitx

Fred Buecker
 

The other board was a?VK3YE that he said did not work very well.

-Fred
KC3HMS

On Feb 5, 2018 9:47 AM, "Michael Monteith via Groups.Io" <michael_r_monteith=[email protected]> wrote:
Which 2 boards?? I know the one is the TAP2016.? What's the other?

73, Michael
KM4OLT
On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 06:13 pm, Nick VK4PLN wrote:
Hi john, both boards from eBay...
I am really happy with the setup, AGC is performing very well in my opinion...
Re: Smoking Genie

Michael Davis
 

I have just finished chasing the smoking R141. Even after replacing the smd with an axial 1/2 watt, mounted vertically, it continued to get blazing hot after only 2-3 seconds of PTT. Be sure to check to see if it's still getting hot. After checking the obvious, rechecking all resistor values, double checking transistor voltages using Randy's chart. After replacing Q14, I still had the problem. I removed R14 again and mounted a new one, elevated like a 3 legged bug. Problem solved. My conclusion, with Q14 mounted tight to the board, there is a risk that the metal Q14 case will short to the board. An insulated spacer should be used or have been used, to keep this device up just a bit from the board. A friend suggested cutting the bottom of my case to access to the entire underside of the board. A great idea for new builders. BTW, I mounted the axial 10 ohm resistor through the tiny hole near it's original location. That connects to the bottom board foil ground, and one of my smd pads were destroyed from unsoldering the burned R141.?

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD

?
Re: top band ubitx

 

开云体育

Some more info and pictures for anyone wanting to use the uBitx on 160m.?

I’m having a blast on 160m I did add larger heat sinks and a pair of small fans that I can turn on and off as needed to keep the finals cool if I’m long winded or using digital modes.

Qrp labs makes a great low pass filter kit:


I added a BNC adapter to connect to the LPF to keep it simple.?

image1.jpegimage2.jpegimage3.jpeg


On Feb 7, 2018, at 7:22 AM, bill richardson <ng1p.bill@...> wrote:

160m doublet feed with 450 ohm line.
On Feb 6, 2018, at 9:23 PM, Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> wrote:

What are you using for an antenna?

Vince.


On 02/06/2018 08:06 PM, bill richardson wrote:
Turned the output down to about 8 Watts and have made 4 contacts on 160 with great reports. Will add a larger heat sink to be safe.
On Feb 6, 2018, at 7:26 PM, bill richardson <ng1p.bill@...> wrote:

I don’t have a spectrum analyzer but I think your right. Without the LPF installed I’m seeing over 20 Watts out on 160m and with it I see 12watts out so a lot of signal outside of the 160m band is happening...
On Feb 6, 2018, at 7:12 PM, John Backo <jabac@...> wrote:

Bill:

I think what you are seeing is the "normal" variation in the
output of the MOSFETS. Some are better than others at RF.

Gordon's suggestion to turn back the drive is probably the right answer.
Alternatively, you could turn down the gate voltage a bit, but that
would probably introduce compression distortion. Or you could increase
the size of the heat-sink and see how it goes. Probably the wisest thing
to do is both turn back the drive a bit and increase the heat-sink.

Some, but not all, IRF510's are capable of 20W or more on 80m.
you might happen to have some good ones. The key lies in the
harmonic generation and the heat-sinking.

Note that what you are seeing MAY be from UHF oscillation included in
the signal. Be very aware of that. Check your output very carefully.

john
AD5YE









--
Michigan VHF Corp. ?? ??
????????????????????????
Re: BITX40- tune button- no output

 

Steve, you need to install?the TX-RX mod so that the radio will go into TX when you press the button.



Alternatively, you can press PTT manually on the mic and then press the tune button.

73 Allard PE1NWL

Re: BITX40- tune button- no output

 

Thanks Mike, but according to ,?

CONNECTING A STRAIGHT MORSE KEY or 'TUNE' BUTTON:

A straight key (or external electronic keyer) can be connected to Raduino pin A1 (connector P1, brown wire). It is recommended to install a 1K series resistor to protect the Arduino input. When the key is up (open) pin A1 will be HIGH. When the key is down (closed, shorted to ground) pin A1 will be LOW, and a carrier will be transmitted.

You could also wire up a simple push button instead of connecting a morse key. The generated CW carrier can be used for tuning up your antenna. In that case please note that you will be transmitting a carrier at full duty cycle, therefore don't keep the tune button pressed for too long to prevent overheating the final!

Am I misunderstanding something here?? Aloha, Steve
Re: BITX40- tune button- no output

 

Tune button? ? There is no tune button with Allard’s mods!? Maybe you are thinking of the CW spot / fine tune button?? This puts a tone on cw for allowing you to align the incoming signal with the CW offset and it also enables fine tune on the dial with 1 Hz steps.? Holding it down at the same time as the function button will lock the tune dial.

Parallel up a button with the straight key down and this will give you a momentary Tune button.

73 Mike ZL1AXG


On Fri, 16 Feb 2018 at 8:36 PM, Steve Thatcher <stevep2p@...> wrote:
Hi gang.? I've got my '40 assembled, tested, and mounted in a box.? Loaded Allard's latest as well as all his hardware mods, with the exception of the TX-RX mod.? 6W output on SSB, but no output on CW when I push the tune button.? I get the sidetone on the speaker, but no movement on the wattmeter.? Something in the Settings Menu?? Any ideas?? I've searched the messages, but no joy.? Thanks, Aloha, Steve WH6ST

BITX40: Allard's Firmware with Rotary Encoder?

 

Hello All,

I got Allard's Raduino sketch to compile on an Uno R3 that I'm playing with, and I also got a rotary encoder working on a test sketch, and now I need to figure out how to make Allard's sketch use the rotary encoder. I'm pretty new to Arduino (this is my first actual project aside from Blink and a few basic tests). I've figured out how to convert to an I2C display- that's easy enough, and I have a version of the sketch that does that successfully. I must be humble and admit that I don't have the time I wish I did, and I'd be better off if someone already figured out the encoder part so I could get a jump on that. I have other mods that I want to do, but Allard's code is so well featured I'd?like to start there, if possible.

Thanks for the assist and 73!
--
Ryan Flowers - W7RLF
BITX40- tune button- no output

 

Hi gang.? I've got my '40 assembled, tested, and mounted in a box.? Loaded Allard's latest as well as all his hardware mods, with the exception of the TX-RX mod.? 6W output on SSB, but no output on CW when I push the tune button.? I get the sidetone on the speaker, but no movement on the wattmeter.? Something in the Settings Menu?? Any ideas?? I've searched the messages, but no joy.? Thanks, Aloha, Steve WH6ST
Re: RD16HHF1 in the uBITX #ubitx

John
 

Hello Marco,

Yes? I saw this cap on some schematics and they are supposed to flatten the gain curve.

Thanks for the suggestion.

I will have a look at this when I am finished with the audio side.

73, John (VK2ETA)
Re: RD16HHF1 in the uBITX #ubitx

M Garza
 

John,
Have you tried putting a 150 to 330pf cap across pins 1 & 6 on T11?? It might help balance the output.? Most push-pull amps have this cap.

Just a suggestion.

Marco - KG5PRT?

On Feb 15, 2018 7:39 AM, "John" <passionfruit88@...> wrote:
I have done a strait replacement of the IRF510s with RD16HHF1s.?
?
Here are the before and after values I got.
?
All tests done with uBitx VR1 drive level in the same position of approx 60% of range.
?
1. IRF510s and main board at 12.1V. PA idle current checked at 0.20A total (factory setting) so assume 100mA in each final.?
(For info, Rx currents: 164mA no volume, about 209mA "normal" volume).?
- At 7.1Mhz:? ?10W, total current: 1.79A, of which PA current: 1.31A, therefore main board current 0.48A
- At 14.2Mhz: 5.5W, total current: 1.39A, of which PA current: 1.0A,? therefore main board current 0.39A
- At 21.2Mhz: 2.2W, total current: 0.95A, of which PA current: 0.53A, therefore main board current 0.42A
- At 28.1Mhz: 1.3W, total current: 0.95A, of which PA current: 0.53A, therefore main board current 0.42A
?
?
2. IRF510s with 16.5V, 13.8V for main board. PA total idle current checked at 0.21A.?
(For info, Rx currents: 188mA no volume, about 230mA "normal" volume).?
- At 7.1Mhz:? 19W, total current: 2.65A, of which PA current: 2.09A, therefore main board current 0.56A
- At 14.2Mhz: 11W, total current: 2.20A, of which PA current: 1.80A, therefore main board current 0.40A
- At 21.2Mhz: 5.5W, total current: 1.40A, of which PA current: 1.00A, therefore main board current 0.40A
- At 28.1Mhz: 2.2W, total current: 1.02A, of which PA current: 0.60A, therefore main board current 0.42A
?
?
I haven't found a definitive reference for the safe and optimum values of the RD16HHF1s idle bias current but it seems to range from 200 to 500mA. So I would not recommend long term usage of the 500mA bias I used for these measurements.
I will reset mine to probably the 400-450mA value I read from some articles.
?
3. RD16HHF1s and main board at 12.1VDC, 250mA idle bias each (Total 0.5A PA idle current).?
- At 7.1Mhz:? 10W,? PA current: 1.20A
- At 14.2Mhz: 9W,? ?PA current: 1.21A
- At 21.2Mhz: 4.5W, PA current: 0.65A
- At 28.1Mhz: 5.5W, PA current: 0.95A
?
?
4. RD16HHF1s and main board at 12.1VDC, 500mA idle bias each (Total 1A PA idle current).?
- At 7.1Mhz: 10W, PA current: 1.18A
- At 14.2Mhz: 9W, PA current: 1.26A
- At 21.2Mhz: 5W, PA current: 0.71A
- At 28.1Mhz: 6W, PA current: 1.11A
?
?
5. RD16HHF1s and main board at 13.8VDC, 500mA idle bias each (Total 1A PA idle current).?
- At 7.1Mhz:? 13.5W, PA current: 1.95A
- At 14.2Mhz: 13.5W, PA current: 1.93A
- At 21.2Mhz: 6W,? ? PA current: 1.38A
- At 28.1Mhz: 9.5W,? PA current: 1.79A
?
?
?
Interesting observations:
?
A. The RD16HHF1 produces a much flatter power curver over frequency (in my device), although it shows a dip somewhere near the 15m band.
?
B. The IRF510 can produce some nice power in the lower frequencies when increasing the PA supply voltage, but it comes at the price of a steep power drop at higher frequencies.
?
C. The bias does not seem to influence the efficiency of the finals at full power with RD16HHF1, since biasing at 250 and 500mA produces essentially the same output for the same DC power input. Assuming distortion reduces with higher bias, can we assume a higher bias (within limits) is preferable? Any risk of thermal runaway?
?
D. The board main current (which includes the current in the driving stages of the power amplifier) does not seem to change with frequency from 20m onwards. Is this because the gain is pretty constant? If so, most of the drop in power with increasing frequency seems to be in the IRF510s, supporting the results obtained with the RD16HHF1s.
?
E. With the current uBitx PA circuit the RD16HHF1 seems limited in output, although not having the proper test equipment I can't say where the limitation occurs.
?
F. When I increased the drive through VR1 I noticed that at around 40% for the lower frequencies and at around 60% for the top frequencies I get a compression effect and the output does not increase much more from there on. I left it at 60% and got a positive feedback on the voice quality on my first QSO on 40m. Therefore I assume that the compression/clipping is not significant at that level (but I can't measure the sprectral purity).
?
?
So since my target was around 10W on 10m and 10 to 15W on 40m minimum I can say I have reached my goal just by changing the finals to RD16HHF1s and supplying the board with 13.8VDC (below the 15.2/15V stated in the respective datasheets of the RD16HHF1 and TDA2822).
?
To replace the finals I simply cut the legs of the IRF510s about 3mm above the board and correspondingly cut and crossed over the drain and source pins of the RD16s to match, then soldered in place.
?
It would be interesting to compare these results with others who performed the finals swap on the stock uBitx.
?
Next is the installation of the TPA2016 audio amplifier with I2C controllable AGC.

This is a lot of fun.
?
All the best,
?
73, John (VK2ETA)
?
Re: uBitx LCD Viewing Angle and Replacement Hints Needed

Mike Lichtman
 

Thank you to those who responded to my question. Bill Richardson’s informing me of the contrast control on the back of the
VFO module did the trick. It was originally set to maximum. Now that the green display is toned down and functional, i will probably
stay with it. Maybe in the future I will consider the blue/white or black /white displays. 73 Mike KF6KXG
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