Re: Buing BitX - No confirmation after payment
The problem is I do not have PayPal account (you can pay using credit card without it).
I'm sure the transaction is completed because my bank account has been charged.
What I am not sure is if the seller is correctly informed about that. I expected some e-mail but got nothing.
Regards,
Satanowski
SP5DRS
|
Re: Buing BitX - No confirmation after payment
I'm not responsible for this but having purchased one earlier, I did get an email confirmation.?
I would suggest that you login to your PayPal account and see if the transaction completed.?
73 Faisal VA3SFA
Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. From: Satanowski Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 06:12 Subject: [BITX20] Buing BitX - No confirmation after payment | Hey,
Is it normal that I did not get any email confirmation after I paid for BitX via PayPal?
It seems that the only proof that I order anything is the record on my bank account.
Any person responsible for orders shows here?
Regards,
Satanowski
|
Buing BitX - No confirmation after payment
Hey,
Is it normal that I did not get any email confirmation after I paid for BitX via PayPal?
It seems that the only proof that I order anything is the record on my bank account.
Any person responsible for orders shows here?
Regards,
Satanowski
|
Good looking mic. Now you just need one of them foam balls on the end of it.
Vince.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Don't you enjoy the facial expression of the clerk in the plumbing
department as you try to explain you are working on a microphone. I think
this will do just fine. I may leave the plumbing in its original color and
markings just for a conversation starter.
As you can see in the back ground, I finally got brave enough to cut on
that rectangle. A little touch up with a file is still needed. Here is a
closer picture.
Getting ready to drill the hole for the volume control. Rather than use
the pot for the volume control, I was thinking about using the tuning pot
for the volume since the shaft matches the size knobs I have. I suppose
the only difference is audio taper vs linear taper?
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
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Re: W8TEE Software Release 1.05
Hi David,
Looks like you have a "picky" DDS chip.
Cheers,
Will
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 08/10/2017 09:35 PM, David S via Groups.Io wrote: Hi Jack et al
I have already tried adding a delay to startup, I started at 200ms and
went to 2sec with no success, I have already added the 2 calls to send
frequency like this.
DDS.setfreq((float)currentFrequency, 0); // set AD9850 output
to 1 Hz and phase to 0
sendFrequency(currentFrequency);
sendFrequency(currentFrequency);
I placed them here in the upper section of setup because I was seeing
the DDS start on a power cycle on the wrong frequency, around 7MHz, with
the calls where they were in the original code, moving them stopped that.
I am using a type 1 dds with an adapter board, not that it should make
any difference, however I do have two units and have just changed them
over, surprise suprise it is as Terry suggested it is just the original
module showing the effect. Changing DDS units it's one thing I just did
not think of trying. So Jack, great just add two calls in the setup, I
would suggest they got in the top half as I've currently placed them.
Also I think there's some duplicated calls in the lower section, in my
efforts to remedy this my lower section is now like this.
updateTime = millis(); // Next update time
encoderDirection = 0;
encoderMode = ENCODERTUNING; // tuning
StartupScreen();
locationX = 1;
analogMeter(locationX, locationY, 200, 110, WHITE); // display smeter
}
I'm having a steep learning curve, Jacks a much better coder than I was
or will ever be.
Many thanks all
Regards
David G8DJM
|
Re: uBitx almost finished by Bore Lezaic into CM2KMK PCB
Ashhar
Just a few thoughts on Dexter's wire length suggestion. ?
A simple manufacturing jig is one way around this, one for each Toroid?version with a different number of turns. ?In basic terms, think about a sheet of wood, about A4 size, the working line will be the centre. ?
At the top you need a holder for the wire, I assume you are using reels, so it needs to be able to rotate with some resistance, so the wires not too slack. ?So a spindle with a crude slipping clutch, a sprung material covered portion of the spindle support would suffice.
A little lower down, you will need a guide ?support for the wire, it has to be at the wire working height above the board, nothing complicated, something like a closed cup hook, like the ones used on net curtails, screwed into a support above the board, This will act as a first guide for the wire.
Next a bit below the hook a further guide for the wire, a small funnel, again nothing complicated, how about the top of a washing up bottle, drill the correct sized hold in another piece of wood and glue it in.
Then a clamp, one of the toggle clamps used on test jigs etc. ?just to hold the wire firmly while winding.
Some distance below needs to be a measuring edge, again another length of wood across the board, more on this later.
Then the working point, a bit down again to give working clearance, about the distance you need the lead lengths to be I've used all sorts, the cap of a ball point to a simple pencil, anything similar to what your currently using .
Next another measuring edge, below the first by the length required for winding a lead length. ?On both the measuring points you will need a marking point, something like a small headed tack or panel pin to distinctly mark the measuring point.
Setup, open the clamp, place the wire roll on the spindle, tighten the retaining nut, ?run the wire through the first cup hook then through the funnel (bottle top) and under the clamp leave enough to reach the first (upper) measuring point. Close the clamp, the jig is now ready to operate.
Operation. Open the clamp, pull the wire down to the second (lower) marking point, close the clamp. Wind the toroid until there's only enough wire left to reach the first (upper) measuring point. ?Cut the wire, hopefully job done.
You may need to adjust the measuring points according to the number of turns on the toroid. You can use anything to hand to make something like this, you must have some ladies that are better than others at winding, use them to test your idea to make sure it doesn't slow them down ?too much.
I hope this gives you some ideas and helps you to retain the services of you ladies, and enable us all the order a uBitx sooner.
|
Re: No RF out but signal heard on nearby receiver
Yes,
Replacing Q13 did fix?the problem. ?But, many thanks?for the correct Q13 type. ?I simply used what was on the schematic. ?Another great thing about this list!
73,
Pat AA4PG
Pat Griffin
http://www.cahabatechnology.com
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Show quoted text
You say: ?"The problem turned out to be Q13."
So you replaced Q13 and now all is well?
Or are you asking for help?
If the IRF510 is still pulling around 100ma of idle current when transmittting, then the IRF510 is probably not blown.
You say: "Q13 is a BC849 and Mouser has them for 0.139 each (sku 833-BC849B-TP)"
Q13 is an MMBT3904. ?The schematic says BC849 cuz that's the symbol Farhan happened to have handy.
The 250 mW max dissipation of the BC849 might work fine in most spots on the Bitx40, but at Q13
the surface MMBT3904 is actually exceeding its 350 mW max dissipation spec, and running quite hot.
If I were replacing Q13 I would use a leaded 2n3904 in the standard TO92 package, with 625 mW of max dissipation.?
Here's a good place to start for those debugging the transmitter: ? /g/BITX20/message/24225
Jerry, KE7ER ? ?(not particularly big, but getting kind of old)
On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 07:09 pm, John Smith wrote:
The big kids usually handle these but this time I am going to take a stab at it. This sounds like the final PA is not receiving the supplied DC power. Or the PA is blown, and needs replacing. Without the PA working at all, you can still hear a signal
on a "nearby" receiver being produced by the driver transistor loud enough to hear. At least this was my experience.?
Clip the leads on the PA instead of desoldering, and solder you new thinned and shortened PA leads to the backs of the original leads still on the board. Because you are going to do this more than once. ?Let's see if the experts agree.
|
Re: W8TEE Software Release 1.05
Hi Jack et al I have already tried adding a delay to startup, I started at 200ms and went to 2sec with no success, I have already added the 2 calls to send frequency like this.
? ? DDS.setfreq((float)currentFrequency, 0); ? ? ? ?// set AD9850 output to 1 Hz and phase to 0
? ? sendFrequency(currentFrequency);
? ? sendFrequency(currentFrequency);
I placed them here in the upper section of setup because ?I was seeing the DDS start on a power cycle on the wrong frequency, around 7MHz, with the calls where they were in the original code, moving them stopped that.
I am using a type 1 dds with an adapter board, not that it should make any difference, however I do have two units and have just changed them over, surprise suprise it is as Terry suggested it is just the original module showing the effect. Changing DDS units it's one thing I just did not think of trying. So Jack, great just add two calls in the setup, I would suggest they got in the top half as I've currently placed them. ?Also I think there's some duplicated calls in the lower section, in my efforts to remedy this my lower section is now like this.
? ? updateTime = millis(); // Next update time
? ? encoderDirection = 0;
? ? encoderMode = ENCODERTUNING; ? ? ? ?// tuning
? ? StartupScreen();
? ? locationX = 1;
? ? analogMeter(locationX, locationY, 200, 110, WHITE); // display smeter
? }
I'm having a steep learning curve, Jacks a much better coder than I was or will ever be.
Many thanks all
Regards ?
David G8DJM
|
BITX40v3 20m dual band conversion complete!
It took me half the night to get the article done, but here it is. Make your BITX40 work on 40 and 20m using QRP Labs filters and a bit of soldering. Feel free to poke holes in it, or ask any questions. http://miscdotgeek.com/converting-bitx40-20m/ -- Ryan Flowers W7RLF
?
?<-- Learn how to go digital on the BITX40
|
Re: uBitx almost finished by Bore Lezaic into CM2KMK PCB
|
Re: W8TEE Software Release 1.05
That would make sense. David is just unlucky in having a particularly
screwed up chip when it starts.
I recall a particular bit of gear at work, on one unit a particular set
of plugin PCBs would cause a repeatable problem. Change any one of the 6
boards or put that set in another unit - no problem/
In other units there was occasional burnt out buss driver chips. The
cure for repeatable problem would have fixed the burn up problem, Not
sure if it did as I moved away.
Cheers,
Will
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Show quoted text
On 08/10/2017 03:23 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io wrote: Thanks, Terry. If that's the case, we just need to add a second call to
/sendFrequency()/ in /setup()/. Hopefully, Dave will give that a try and
let us know what happens.
Jack, W8TEE
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* augustinetez <vk5tm@...>
*To:* [email protected]
*Sent:* Wednesday, August 9, 2017 11:08 PM
*Subject:* Re: [BITX20] W8TEE Software Release 1.05
If I may offer a suggestion (I haven't looked at the code, so you may
already be doing this).
When I started playing with these modules, I had one that did strange
things.
The cure in my case was to send a zero frequency command twice early in
the set up section of my software.
An earlier version of the datasheet for the AD9850 did actually
recommend this as the frequency registers can be filled with random data
at first power on.
This random data can put the AD9850 into certain undocumented modes that
lock the chip up, requiring the use of the reset pin to clear it (again
from the datasheet).
Terry VK5TM
<>
Virus-free. www.avast.com
<>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
|
Re: No RF out but signal heard on nearby receiver
I see now, it's a new symptom description of an overloaded, or something, Q13. Right? I first read it as a question. Well... good on ya then.?
But once I did hear with a receiver while the final had no power. And was strong too.
I am starting to forget bits like this. I am just an amateur after all.
|
Re: 0-40MHz AD9850 DDS Signal Generator
I have found that the key word to use in a search for information on a particular board or component is "datasheet"; for example "AD9850 datasheet". That usually produces a much larger set of useful results than "schematic" or "wiring diagram".
--
John - WA2FZW
|
Don't you enjoy the facial expression of the clerk in the plumbing department as you try to explain you are working on a microphone. I think this will do just fine. I may leave the plumbing in its original color and markings just for a conversation starter.  As you can see in the back ground, I finally got brave enough to cut on that rectangle. A little touch up with a file is still needed. Here is a closer picture.  Getting ready to drill the hole for the volume control. Rather than use the pot for the volume control, I was thinking about using the tuning pot for the volume since the shaft matches the size knobs I have. I suppose the only difference is audio taper vs linear taper??
|
Re: W8TEE Display/VFO- USB - CODING REQUEST
We use an AD9850 and it's been used as a straight VFO 160-10M in the Arduino Projects book, so I think it would work fine.
What I suggested does not involve any hardware at all. Simply a new state added to the already-exiting state machine. All it would take is a press on the rotary encoder switch to move to the Digital mode and another press to lock it in.?
Jack, W8TEE
From: Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE Display/VFO- USB - CODING REQUEST
Allard's solution makes it easier on the user, no need to switch in and out some BFO inductor when flipping between LSB and USB. But Allard's solution requires a VFO that can operate at either 5mhz or 19mhz. I have no idea if your DDS chip can send out a clean 19mhz, and no idea what kind of analog filter follows the DDS chip. Jerry On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 07:52 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
Changing the BFO frequency involves little more than changing the BFOFREQUENCY symbolic constant
|
Re: W8TEE Software Release 1.05
Thanks, Terry. If that's the case, we just need to add a second call to sendFrequency() in setup(). Hopefully, Dave will give that a try and let us know what happens.
Jack, W8TEE
From: augustinetez <vk5tm@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE Software Release 1.05
If I may offer a suggestion (I haven't looked at the code, so you may already be doing this).
When I started playing with these modules, I had one that did strange things.
The cure in my case was to send a zero frequency command twice early in the set up section of my software.
An earlier version of the datasheet for the AD9850 did actually recommend this as the frequency registers can be filled with random data at first power on.
This random data can put the AD9850 into certain undocumented modes that lock the chip up, requiring the use of the reset pin to clear it (again from the datasheet).
Terry VK5TM?
|
Re: No RF out but signal heard on nearby receiver
The gate drive is too low. I remember it being much much higher.
I suspect one of the trifilar toroids has a short and this will show up if you move them. I personally saw this issue
in a defective board Farhan gave me. I just moved the leads till the short went away and blobbed some hot glue to
keep the wires apart.
Also see that your audio drive is at least 150mv p-p or more.
Raj
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On a scope, p-p voltage at the gate of Q15 with a 1000hz tone: 40mv with no RF out and 200mv after Q13 replacement
Q13 is a BC849 and Mouser has them for 0.139 each (sku 833-BC849B-TP)
73,
Pat AA4PG
|
Re: No RF out but signal heard on nearby receiver
Pat,
The Q13 id actually MMBT3904, the schematic shows a different number for
some reason.
Farhan has explained long ago.
Raj
At 10/08/2017, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Actually, that was my first
thought and I did exactly as you have described. That had no effect. I
didn't really know how much signal to expect at Q13 and Q14 but with the
previous reports Q13 seemed more likely. That turned out to be the
case
73
Pat AA4PG
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 9, 2017, at 9:09 PM, John Smith via Groups.Io
<
johnlinux77@...> wrote:
The big kids usually handle
these but this time I am going to take a stab at it. This sounds like the
final PA is not receiving the supplied DC power. Or the PA is blown, and
needs replacing. Without the PA working at all, you can still hear a
signal on a "nearby" receiver being produced by the driver
transistor loud enough to hear. At least this was my experience.
Clip the leads on the PA instead of desoldering, and solder you new
thinned and shortened PA leads to the backs of the original leads still
on the board. Because you are going to do this more than once.?
Let's see if the experts agree.
|
Re: W8TEE Software Release 1.05
If I may offer a suggestion (I haven't looked at the code, so you may already be doing this).
When I started playing with these modules, I had one that did strange things.
The cure in my case was to send a zero frequency command twice early in the set up section of my software.
An earlier version of the datasheet for the AD9850 did actually recommend this as the frequency registers can be filled with random data at first power on.
This random data can put the AD9850 into certain undocumented modes that lock the chip up, requiring the use of the reset pin to clear it (again from the datasheet).
Terry VK5TM?
|
Re: W8TEE Display/VFO- USB - CODING REQUEST
Allard's solution makes it easier on the user, no need to switch in and out some BFO inductor when flipping between LSB and USB.
But Allard's solution requires a VFO that can operate at either 5mhz or 19mhz.
I have no idea if your DDS chip can send out a clean 19mhz, and no idea what kind of analog filter follows the DDS chip.
Jerry
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 07:52 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
Changing the BFO frequency involves little more than changing the BFOFREQUENCY symbolic constant
|
Raj vu2zap