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Date
CQ tonight

 

I will be calling on 7.270 tonight anyone up for a qso?

?

David
Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

I have found one of the bad things about these AD9850/51 units is that they are
often shipped with a bad crystal.

Sometimes. also. they have a 3.3v unit installed and the device is running at 5v.
It will run ok for a while, then rather suddenly fail.

Note the crystal. Some, but not all are marked for 5v or 3.3v operation. If you have
a frequency counter, you can connect it temporarily through a 100 pf. capacitor or so
to the output pin of the oscillator, and measure for any output. It should be about 125 MHz
for the AD9850 and about 30 MHz for the AD9851. The exact number does not matter; what you are
trying to do is verify that the oscillator is working. Quite often, they do not.

If it is bad, it is easily replaced by anything from 30 to 34 MHz for the AD9851 and 125 MHz for the
AD9850. Try to determine both the working voltage of the device AND the designed voltage for the
crystal oscillator. Match them. Then calibrate the combined working unit.

I have recovered several bad units in this manner. YRMV.

IF a device is not working, it is likely to be a bad solder joint or a bad crystal oscillator. The
AD98xx devices themselves are rather rugged. Either can take a 5V supply (but NOT a12v one!).
Now, how well they work is another story. I have heard several explanations for this, most commonly a
mismatched filter string.

john
AD5YE
Re: Still Not Working

 

Curt

As you know the Nano board has built-in USB-to-TTL conversion.? This TTL data
is handled by the built in UART and managed by the boot-loader.? That puts your
compiled program data into memory for execution by the Arduino.? All this usually works
fine.? I have only damaged one of my Nano boards in over two years of experimenting.
That one has burned open its protection diode between +volts and the 5V regulator.
I have never had any problem with the original boot loader code.? I have had lots of
problems trying to reinstall the OptiBoot boot loader, mostly because there are so
many of them....all different.

When you begin a software reload or upgrade of you Arduino Nano the on-board LED
will light while the download is progressing.? The RESET LED will flicker at the start
of this download process.? If that happens it probably means that the boot loader is
seeing your attempt to install software.? If that does not happen you will see some
error messages on the PC program that you are using to install the software.? These
messages may, or may not, be helpful.? If you compiled the software with the wrong
Arduino board setting the resulting HEX-code may not be compatible and the installer
may refuse to accept the code.? A common error with the Arduino IDE as a software
installer is to forget to set the USB/tty port number.? That can block software from
installing.

If your Nano is socket mounted it can easily be removed and replaced.? If it is wired
into the BITX-40 you may have to remove the leads and re-wire it.? My own BITX-40
is old enough that it does not include the raduino or Si5351a synthesizer.? This required
me to make my own controller using a Chinese made Arduino Nano and an Si5351a
board from Hans G0UPL at .? Given the low price of a replacement
Arduino Nano it probably does not make any sense to try just replacing the AVR
Mega-328 processor on your Nano board.? Purchased in singles a new Mega-328
may cost more than a replacement Nano with its new CPU chip.

Some may gripe about using a Chinese made Arduino Nano, but those AVR Mega-328
CPU chips are made under license to Atmel and will meet all the original specifications.
I use them all the time and have never found a bad one.

I don't know what your interest and time available might be, but I highly recommend
hams and experimenters to obtain a few spare Nano boards, and a couple of LCD
displays just for play and entertainment.? It is educational, and will qualify you as
a local "expert" in programming circles.??? Friends and family will be amazed and the
local old-timer hams will want you to build all sort of digital things for them.?? 8-)

You can experiment with an Arduino without the LCD by using an attached PC as
a serial terminal.? The Serial_R/W commands let you send text to the PC and read
keyboard entries from it over the USB/ttl cable.? With Chinese made Arduino Nano
devices costing less than $2.00 each this is a very economical way to learn all about
the Arduino and how to make your own radio controllers and automated test
equipment.? Start with making a simple digital voltmeter using the built-in ADC (Analog-
to-Digital Converter) and your PC as the readout device.? This simple layout gives
you 0.0047 volt resolution for zero-to 5 volts input.? With digital readout via an LCD or
your PC this is an amazing piece of test equipment for the workbench.?

Arv
_._


On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Larry Smith <815cpu@...> wrote:
You may wish to take this opportunity and remove the nano and as I did solder in a inline header so you can remove future ?Nano's.?
A low profile socket is helpful so you can later connect the display module sandwich.
Larry

On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 7:24 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
?Hi Arv, mine's been working fine for well over a week. As strange as this sounds while I was trying to adjust the drive I looked down at the meter and it now had those boxes all the way across. I've disconnected the radrino from the display and although my laptop recognizes that the radio o is plugged in, the radrino will not take an upload from the laptop. This is the same laptop that I used to upload 1.18 into it about 4 days ago. Being that I can't upload to the radrino with the display not connected to it that makes me think that maybe the radrio got whacked somehow. How, I have no idea.? I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary other than turning those two pots and keying up the mic.? I was using a fully insulated screw driver



Re: Mouse encoder?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I've used a mouse wheel for robotics projects. You should be able to make it work.

Jonathan


On 7/14/2017 5:05 PM, Dexter N Muir wrote:

This is just speculation, I haven't tried it myself having not yet delved into the programming to activate it:
Has anyone tried the guts of a PC-mouse as an encoder? I'm thinking a mouse with scroll-wheel (most have a mild 'detent' feel) - perhaps an old(er) ps/2 plug type? Use a ps/2 socket to retain the 'foolproof' pluggability. Disconnect the wiring (maybe leave supply + and -), and wire out the opto's of the wheel. One will be SDA, the other SCL. Perhaps also a/the button/s? one as encoder's 'push' menu/function for step-change etc (I'd use the right for that), the other (left being more intuitive for the more prevalent dexterous :) of the populace) for a convenient PTT... Note: will they pull up or down?
That's 6 wires (if the PS/2's connector pins are all wired through the cable - they might not for a mouse) - SDA, SCL, +5V, 0V, menu and PTT.
If your scrapped mouse is a 'track-ball' type, remove the ball to remove the temptation from the kids to swap it to their old 'junker' PC. Pop in a large nut from the garage/workshop's junk-heap to lend weight if required.
Feedback? Flames? Go to it ...
Re: Still Not Working

 

You may wish to take this opportunity and remove the nano and as I did solder in a inline header so you can remove future ?Nano's.?
A low profile socket is helpful so you can later connect the display module sandwich.
Larry

On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 7:24 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
?Hi Arv, mine's been working fine for well over a week. As strange as this sounds while I was trying to adjust the drive I looked down at the meter and it now had those boxes all the way across. I've disconnected the radrino from the display and although my laptop recognizes that the radio o is plugged in, the radrino will not take an upload from the laptop. This is the same laptop that I used to upload 1.18 into it about 4 days ago. Being that I can't upload to the radrino with the display not connected to it that makes me think that maybe the radrio got whacked somehow. How, I have no idea.? I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary other than turning those two pots and keying up the mic.? I was using a fully insulated screw driver


Re: Shameless plug for Amateurlogic. Tonight!

 

Would be lovely to have reliable youtube here in NZ (for 1PM NZST).
Re: Still Not Working

 

?Hi Arv, mine's been working fine for well over a week. As strange as this sounds while I was trying to adjust the drive I looked down at the meter and it now had those boxes all the way across. I've disconnected the radrino from the display and although my laptop recognizes that the radio o is plugged in, the radrino will not take an upload from the laptop. This is the same laptop that I used to upload 1.18 into it about 4 days ago. Being that I can't upload to the radrino with the display not connected to it that makes me think that maybe the radrio got whacked somehow. How, I have no idea. ?I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary other than turning those two pots and keying up the mic. ?I was using a fully insulated screw driver
Re: Still Not Working

 

Reads like the Nano is blown.? Just plugging in the DDS into your USB by its self should show it booting etc. with version displayed then random numbers 'cause you don't have the tune pot plugged in etc.? The Nano runs the Si5351 with 3 volts from the Nano on board 3v regulator. ?i suspect the 5 reg. gets really hot to the touch.
I've been running my BITX from a 12V. battery.."works fine_Last long time"
Looks like a new Nano is needed.
Hope that helps for what it's worth.
Larry


On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 3:01 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
Have any of you guys seen this where the display shows black boxes all the way across the top line of the display?


Re: Still Not Working

 

mine does not tune...going to purchase another...

On Jul 14, 2017 8:19 PM, "David Woodward" <kf4wbj2@...> wrote:
trying to figure out what RE and EN leads are...yes backlight works....and the raduino?worked flawlessly till I started tinkering....

On Jul 14, 2017 8:08 PM, "Arv Evans" <arvid.evans@...> wrote:
Curt and David

I get that when the Arduino has not fully initialized the LCD display.? It can be caused
by the RE or EN lead not making good contact.? I have this sometimes when using a
prototype plug-board for temporary layouts.

Is there any back light on in the LCD?? Has it ever worked properly?? Does the tuning
adjustment work??

I doubt that this is an LCD problem or a problem with software or the Raduino board.?
Most likely it is a wiring situation...but I have been wrong before.

This is what happens when power is applied to the LCD but no subsequent commands
are sent to the display to initialize it for 2 lines by 16 characters.? I made this happen
by lifting the LCD's RE lead from its connector.

There are 2 control lines (RE and EN) along with 4 data lines (D4,5,6,7) sent to
the LCD.? There are also +5V power and ground on the two pins on one end.? The
two pins on the opposite end need +5 through a small resistor and ground for the
backlight LED.? A look at the schematic for the Raduino will show which pins connect
to what between Raduino and the LCD.
?

It should look something like this, but with the normal Radiuno text on the LCD.

?
Yes, I know those are poor quality pictures, but its the best I can do with sunlight
streaming into the room.?

The contrast control potentiometer can change whether the boxes are shown as
black or white on the back light background.

Arv
_._

?

On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 2:01 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
Have any of you guys seen this where the display shows black boxes all the way across the top line of the display?



Re: Still Not Working

 

trying to figure out what RE and EN leads are...yes backlight works....and the raduino?worked flawlessly till I started tinkering....

On Jul 14, 2017 8:08 PM, "Arv Evans" <arvid.evans@...> wrote:
Curt and David

I get that when the Arduino has not fully initialized the LCD display.? It can be caused
by the RE or EN lead not making good contact.? I have this sometimes when using a
prototype plug-board for temporary layouts.

Is there any back light on in the LCD?? Has it ever worked properly?? Does the tuning
adjustment work??

I doubt that this is an LCD problem or a problem with software or the Raduino board.?
Most likely it is a wiring situation...but I have been wrong before.

This is what happens when power is applied to the LCD but no subsequent commands
are sent to the display to initialize it for 2 lines by 16 characters.? I made this happen
by lifting the LCD's RE lead from its connector.

There are 2 control lines (RE and EN) along with 4 data lines (D4,5,6,7) sent to
the LCD.? There are also +5V power and ground on the two pins on one end.? The
two pins on the opposite end need +5 through a small resistor and ground for the
backlight LED.? A look at the schematic for the Raduino will show which pins connect
to what between Raduino and the LCD.
?

It should look something like this, but with the normal Radiuno text on the LCD.

?
Yes, I know those are poor quality pictures, but its the best I can do with sunlight
streaming into the room.?

The contrast control potentiometer can change whether the boxes are shown as
black or white on the back light background.

Arv
_._

?

On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 2:01 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
Have any of you guys seen this where the display shows black boxes all the way across the top line of the display?



Re: Still Not Working

 

Curt and David

I get that when the Arduino has not fully initialized the LCD display.? It can be caused
by the RE or EN lead not making good contact.? I have this sometimes when using a
prototype plug-board for temporary layouts.

Is there any back light on in the LCD?? Has it ever worked properly?? Does the tuning
adjustment work??

I doubt that this is an LCD problem or a problem with software or the Raduino board.?
Most likely it is a wiring situation...but I have been wrong before.

This is what happens when power is applied to the LCD but no subsequent commands
are sent to the display to initialize it for 2 lines by 16 characters.? I made this happen
by lifting the LCD's RE lead from its connector.

There are 2 control lines (RE and EN) along with 4 data lines (D4,5,6,7) sent to
the LCD.? There are also +5V power and ground on the two pins on one end.? The
two pins on the opposite end need +5 through a small resistor and ground for the
backlight LED.? A look at the schematic for the Raduino will show which pins connect
to what between Raduino and the LCD.
?

It should look something like this, but with the normal Radiuno text on the LCD.

?
Yes, I know those are poor quality pictures, but its the best I can do with sunlight
streaming into the room.?

The contrast control potentiometer can change whether the boxes are shown as
black or white on the back light background.

Arv
_._

?

On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 2:01 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
Have any of you guys seen this where the display shows black boxes all the way across the top line of the display?


Webcam-1500076029.png
Webcam-1500076012.png

Mouse encoder?

 

This is just speculation, I haven't tried it myself having not yet delved into the programming to activate it:
Has anyone tried the guts of a PC-mouse as an encoder? I'm thinking a mouse with scroll-wheel (most have a mild 'detent' feel) - perhaps an old(er) ps/2 plug type? Use a ps/2 socket to retain the 'foolproof' pluggability. Disconnect the wiring (maybe leave supply + and -), and wire out the opto's of the wheel. One will be SDA, the other SCL. Perhaps also a/the button/s? one as encoder's 'push' menu/function for step-change etc (I'd use the right for that), the other (left being more intuitive for the more prevalent dexterous :) of the populace) for a convenient PTT... Note: will they pull up or down?
That's 6 wires (if the PS/2's connector pins are all wired through the cable - they might not for a mouse) - SDA, SCL, +5V, 0V, menu and PTT.
If your scrapped mouse is a 'track-ball' type, remove the ball to remove the temptation from the kids to swap it to their old 'junker' PC. Pop in a large nut from the garage/workshop's junk-heap to lend weight if required.
Feedback? Flames? Go to it ...
Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Mike

?

Thanks for the tips

My DDS has jumpers on J1 J2 and J3, and it¡¯s definitely an AD9850 with 3 rows of 7 pins. I have e-mailed the seller in China to see what can be done. I have limited test equipment, but I¡¯m taking it over the weekend to a fellow amateur who has a spectrum analyser to see what it is doing

?

73 de Charlie GI4FUE

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of K5ESS
Sent: 14 July 2017 23:26
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

?

Assuming your DDS is the type that has three rows of seven pins be sure that the jumper at J3 is in place.? Also, not that there is an easy fix, but you might check to be sure it¡¯s an AD9850 and not an AD9851.

Mike

K5ESS

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Charlie Morrison
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 2:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

?

Hi Matt

?

No, I just compiled the latest version of the code and the default seems to be 7.200. I think I have a problem with the DDS which I got from China, There is no output L

?

73, Charlie GI4FUE

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of DH2LAB
Sent: 14 July 2017 11:39
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

?

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 01:42 pm, Charlie Morrison wrote:

I have my board built and running with the latest code, however turning the rotary encoder does not move the frequency from 7.200 .....

73, Charlie GI4FUE

Hi Charlie;

did you change the Bandend to 7200 for Europe? If you did so, you have also change line 1417.

73, Matt DH2LAB

?

Virus-free.

?
Shameless plug for Amateurlogic. Tonight!

 

?Join us Friday night at 8:00 PM CDT, 0100 UTC for the next exciting episode of AmateurLogic.TV.
?


Sent from Yahoo Mail.

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD

 

Thanks that's the picture i'd been looking for.

Together with the recommendation to use buffered output for the VFO this clarifies wireup a lot.

Thank you very much for the great work Jack
Re: Still Not Working

Vince Vielhaber
 

Sounds like a hosed nano. I'm assuming you have the CH340 driver installed in your computer?

Vince.

On 07/14/2017 06:42 PM, Curt M. wrote:
I have 12v in and 5v out like I would expect to have. I pulled the board
off of the display and connected it to my laptop. The radrino shows up
as USB-Serial CH340 (COM10) when I plug it into my laptop. The short
version of the error that I get while trying to upload is "programmer is
not responding", "attempt 1 of 10: not in sync"

i see the RX light flash occasionally while it trying to upload but it's
not taking the upload.

I've tried to press the reset button on the board and that didn't seem
to make a difference.

Board type in software is set for Arduino Nano
--
Michigan VHF Corp.

Re: Still Not Working

 

I have 12v in and 5v out like I would expect to have. I pulled the board off of the display and connected it to my laptop. The radrino shows up as USB-Serial CH340 (COM10) when I plug it into my laptop. ? The short version of the error that I get while trying to upload is "programmer is not responding", "attempt 1 of 10: not in sync"

i see the RX light flash occasionally while it trying to upload but it's not taking the upload.?

I've tried to press the reset button on the board and that didn't seem to make a difference.?

Board type in software is set for Arduino Nano
Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Assuming your DDS is the type that has three rows of seven pins be sure that the jumper at J3 is in place.? Also, not that there is an easy fix, but you might check to be sure it¡¯s an AD9850 and not an AD9851.

Mike

K5ESS

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Charlie Morrison
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 2:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

?

Hi Matt

?

No, I just compiled the latest version of the code and the default seems to be 7.200. I think I have a problem with the DDS which I got from China, There is no output L

?

73, Charlie GI4FUE

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of DH2LAB
Sent: 14 July 2017 11:39
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

?

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 01:42 pm, Charlie Morrison wrote:

I have my board built and running with the latest code, however turning the rotary encoder does not move the frequency from 7.200 .....

73, Charlie GI4FUE

Hi Charlie;

did you change the Bandend to 7200 for Europe? If you did so, you have also change line 1417.

73, Matt DH2LAB

?

Virus-free.

?
Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Jack

?

Thanks.

Question:? External power on picture states 7-9 volts. I have been using 12 volts. I assume my assumption is wrong and that a voltage regulator is needed to reduce 12v to 7-9 v for the external power input?

?

?

Art

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 4:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD

?

All:

?

Thought this might help some of you decipher some of the pins coming out from the board.

?

Inline image

?

Jack, W8TEE

?



This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.


Re: Still Not Working

 

In the "wire up" section of HFsigs.com, under "alignment of the bitx40" it says to turn RV1 (PA bias) fully clockwise (off) and with an ammeter in the PA power lead (so you are measuring only the current to the PA, not the whole radio), adjust RV1 for 100 ma with PTT activated but no mic audio. After that, RV1 should not be touched. R136 which is usually about mid-point when you get your bitx40, is the only control that should be adjusted to get about 1A on the ammeter when you key the mic and talk loudly into it. This is when transmitting into a proper 50 ohm dummy load, as a poor SWR can mess up your measurements. For example, the wires to the antenna connector should be no longer than a couple of inches long, if a longer distance is needed use 50 ohm mini coax to avoid causing a poor SWR at this point.
Don't "daisy chain" grounds or power connections to different circuits. The 3 grounds and 3 power leads (from Raduino, main circuit board, and PA power) should all go to a common tie point near the DC entry point on your enclosure.
Don't allow wires to lay on top of or up against the underside of the circuit board. All wiring should be kept above, below, or to the the side of the circuit board about a half inch if possible.
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