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Date

Re: Issues With calibrate and TX

 

Thanks Steve,

Glad you fixed it, wonder how exactly you solved it. Please share your
"little code fix" so that others can also benefit from it - thanks!

73, Allard PE1NWL

On Thu, April 27, 2017 18:12, Steve Greer wrote:
Winner winner chicken dinner, ptt isn't hooked up but was getting signal
feedback that seemed to be causing the problem. a little code fix and
boom
now i can use the new code with the multi-functions. Thanks for pushing
me in the right direction.

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 10:09 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote:

Steve,

It's hard to understand the issue without knowing what addtional code
you
are actually using, or what exactly you 'comment out', but my guess is
that any of your additional mods use pin A2 for PTT.
Is your pin A2 in some way connected to your PTT?

In the standard raduino code pin A2 is already reserved for the
CAL-button.
If you connect A2 to your PTT then this will interfere, because if pin
A2
goes to LOW, the calibration procedure will be executed.

The standard arduino code uses pin A6 for PTT, not pin A2.

73 Allard PE1NWL


On Thu, April 27, 2017 12:23, Steve Greer wrote:
I'm modded out with s meter forward and reverse power measuring. I
have
1
button and 1 switch. tried unhooking the switch all together but
still
happens may have to try shielded wires for the control lines.
Twisting
may
not be working. I run a single end of a ground wrapped around wires
for
shielding. calibrate is my only prob doesn't interfere with any other
functions beside calibrate. I've tried different LIBs and still an
issue.
Started unhooking thinks yesterday and couldn't find the root. So I
only
load code to calibrate when I need to and load the commented out code
after
I calibrate. Just extra work.

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 3:50 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...>
wrote:

Steve,

Just to understand your situation better, what is exactly your setup?

Standard unmodified BITX40 board with raduino_v1.07 (or 1.08) with
the
standard PTT switch? No other pushbuttons wired up except the FB
connected
to pin A3?

Or did you add any addtional modifications, buttons etc?

73, Allard PE1NWL






Re: Issues With calibrate and TX

 

Winner winner chicken dinner, ptt isn't hooked up but was getting signal feedback that seemed to be causing the problem. ?a little code fix and boom now i can use the new code with the multi-functions. ? Thanks for pushing me in the right direction.

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 10:09 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote:
Steve,

It's hard to understand the issue without knowing what addtional code you
are actually using, or what exactly you 'comment out', but my guess is
that any of your additional mods use pin A2 for PTT.
Is your pin A2 in some way connected to your PTT?

In the standard raduino code pin A2 is already reserved for the CAL-button.
If you connect A2 to your PTT then this will interfere, because if pin A2
goes to LOW, the calibration procedure will be executed.

The standard arduino code uses pin A6 for PTT, not pin A2.

73 Allard PE1NWL


On Thu, April 27, 2017 12:23, Steve Greer wrote:
> I'm modded out with s meter forward and reverse power measuring.? I have 1
> button and 1 switch.? tried unhooking the switch all together but still
> happens may have to try shielded wires for the control lines.? Twisting
> may
> not be working.? I run a single end of a ground wrapped around wires for
> shielding.? calibrate is my only prob doesn't interfere with any other
> functions beside calibrate.? I've tried different LIBs and still an issue.
> Started unhooking thinks yesterday and couldn't find the root.? So I only
> load code to calibrate when I need to and load the commented out code
> after
> I calibrate.? Just extra work.
>
> On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 3:50 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>>
>> Just to understand your situation better, what is exactly your setup?
>>
>> Standard unmodified BITX40 board with raduino_v1.07 (or 1.08) with the
>> standard PTT switch? No other pushbuttons wired up except the FB
>> connected
>> to pin A3?
>>
>> Or did you add any addtional modifications, buttons etc?
>>
>> 73, Allard PE1NWL
>>
>>
>>
>






Re: R15 and ADE-1 mixer getting very hot

Mvs Sarma
 

William,
Don't feel lost. afterall thase things happen.
as you took out the ADE-1, once, do it again
?while it is out, using datasheet for pin id, test cross insulation bteween winding 1-6
?to other windings like 2-5 and 3-4
?the meter should show meg ohms
?if there is a short, it would be between 2-5 and 3-4
?but not to 1-6.
?after ensuring that you can mount.
?I fear that 1-6 is getting shorted to ground after the winding.



On Thursday, 27 April 2017 5:27 PM, William Hemmingsen <lee.hemmingsen@...> wrote:


I checked all the traces, an I see no bridges.? I removed the ADE-1 and shorted pin1 to 6 using a wire.? Now no longer does R15 get hot.? So that eliminates anything in that path.? So that leads me down the ADE-1 rabbit hole.? I suspect current is flowing from ADE pin1 to ground when 12v is applied.? I checked the resistances from ADE pad pin 2 & 3 to ground and they open (as expected with blocking caps c18,c19,c11,c15).

But this makes no since, because I have used ADE-1's from 2 different vendors all with same results.? Obviously in the ADE-1 pin1 (primary ground) and Secondary ground are connected.? This send 12v into the pin diodes.? But with no DC load on pins 2 or 3, this should act as an open circuit for DC.

Now I'm really lost


W4WHL

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 6:24 AM, Lawrence Galea <9h1avlaw@...> wrote:
Check for a solder bridge or a tiny copper trace that remained when the pcb was etched.
You can use a magnifier or a meter to check it.
What you might also do is to run a knife between the tracks to remove any tiny bridge that may not be easily visible.
I also had a piece of equipment where the pcb would short after some time and if you switch off and leave it for a few minutes it would go open again and then again short after a few minutes.
I had to isolate the respective contact, strip a little bit of track and connect the component a little furtehr because it appeared to be some contamination in the material itself shorting after a few minutes.
You learn by experience when things do what they shouldn't do.
Regards
Lawrence

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 2:47 AM, William Hemmingsen <lee.hemmingsen@...> wrote:


R15-c17 junction to ground is 13.3k.? I removed c17 and no change.? FYI R11 & Q7 are also removed.? So this resistance is 100% in the ADE-1 itself (as its the only thing left).

If I recall correctly, when R11 is in the circuit the resistance is 2k as expected.

Even with R11, Q7, C17 out of circuit R15 gets burn you hot when you apply 12v.

Also my ADE-1 is mounted the same as your attached picture.

I took a brand new ADE-1 from reel and measured resistance from pin 1 to 2 = 20k? & pin 1 to 5 = 40k.? if I remove R15, the ADE-1 on the board matches this.? This makes no sense, because those resistances should limit current.? My guess is the resistance goes down when the diodes are biased...Just a wild guess.? But when 12v is applied R15 heats up like there is a short.

With all components installed; When power is applied I measured the voltage at R15-c17 junction which equals only 1.5v (it should be close to 12v correct?).? Gate voltage of Q17 is only .7v. ? So this would leave me to guess that when power is applied the ade-1 must go to ~12 ohms to drop the voltage that much.

I'm lost

W4WHL





Re: raduino_v1.08 released

 

The eeprom has limited write cycles. It might make sense to write less frequently. Possibly when you switch ?betweeb vfos or toggle the rit.
- f

On 27 Apr 2017 10:02 a.m., "ON2AAV" <on2aav@...> wrote:

Thanks Allard !

Will load it upto the board tonight


73 ON2AAV


Re: Bitx qso night

 

yes i can use that as the band plans here in Thailand has a max 7.2MHz.

Hope to hear you all some nights.

Nemo.


Re: Name for a lib?

 

On 40m, it moves through 3000 khz. ?Call it MST3000?


On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 08:02 am, Pavel Milanes Costa wrote:

Moving Slot Tune? MST?

?


Re: Name for a lib?

Jack Purdum
 

Haven't I seen "Stutter Tune" and "Flutter Tune" on the site? What about "End-Stop Tuning" since that sorta describes how it works.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Pavel Milanes Costa <pavelmc@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Name for a lib?


El 27/04/17 a las 10:43, rwhinric@... ±ð²õ³¦°ù¾±²ú¾±¨®:
> What would you consider its key abstraction?

The ability to use a simple linear volume control as tune control for a
radio...

If you think about it's like a moving slot under a calibrated ribbon
that allows you to see the whole dimension trough it with precise
accuracy but one slot size at the time.

Moving Slot Tune? MST?

The shuttle concept is near also (Now I have time to google for it
definition): ShuttleTune?

I would like to be cultural and technically precise about it, in my main
project arduino-arcs the name selection was not very good... I was short
of ideas that time. ;-)

ARCS stands for Amateur Radio Control & Clock Solution.

That's why I request help from the list: collective thinking.

73 de Pavel CO7WT.






Re: Name for a lib?

Pavel Milanes Costa
 

El 27/04/17 a las 10:43, rwhinric@... ±ð²õ³¦°ù¾±²ú¾±¨®:
What would you consider its key abstraction?
The ability to use a simple linear volume control as tune control for a radio...

If you think about it's like a moving slot under a calibrated ribbon that allows you to see the whole dimension trough it with precise accuracy but one slot size at the time.

Moving Slot Tune? MST?

The shuttle concept is near also (Now I have time to google for it definition): ShuttleTune?

I would like to be cultural and technically precise about it, in my main project arduino-arcs the name selection was not very good... I was short of ideas that time. ;-)

ARCS stands for Amateur Radio Control & Clock Solution.

That's why I request help from the list: collective thinking.

73 de Pavel CO7WT.


Re: Name for a lib?

 

Pavel,

Culturally, I would stay away from "pot" and "auto-tune".

What would you consider its key abstraction?

Rate tune, proportionality? PTune.lib, EZtune.lib.

Good luck. Sounds useful.

Bob


Name for a lib?

Pavel Milanes Costa
 

Hi.

I'm working in something named arcs-bitx (a mix of arduino-arcs + bitx) and I like to separate the ingenious tune mechanism of the bitx (analog lineal pot tune) on a own lib.

I'm not english born/native, I have read different names for that: shuttle tune, moving slot, smart pot, etc.

What would be the most accurate name for a lib like that?

Thanks.

73 de Pavel CO7WT


Re: Issues With calibrate and TX

 

Steve,

It's hard to understand the issue without knowing what addtional code you
are actually using, or what exactly you 'comment out', but my guess is
that any of your additional mods use pin A2 for PTT.
Is your pin A2 in some way connected to your PTT?

In the standard raduino code pin A2 is already reserved for the CAL-button.
If you connect A2 to your PTT then this will interfere, because if pin A2
goes to LOW, the calibration procedure will be executed.

The standard arduino code uses pin A6 for PTT, not pin A2.

73 Allard PE1NWL

On Thu, April 27, 2017 12:23, Steve Greer wrote:
I'm modded out with s meter forward and reverse power measuring. I have 1
button and 1 switch. tried unhooking the switch all together but still
happens may have to try shielded wires for the control lines. Twisting
may
not be working. I run a single end of a ground wrapped around wires for
shielding. calibrate is my only prob doesn't interfere with any other
functions beside calibrate. I've tried different LIBs and still an issue.
Started unhooking thinks yesterday and couldn't find the root. So I only
load code to calibrate when I need to and load the commented out code
after
I calibrate. Just extra work.

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 3:50 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote:

Steve,

Just to understand your situation better, what is exactly your setup?

Standard unmodified BITX40 board with raduino_v1.07 (or 1.08) with the
standard PTT switch? No other pushbuttons wired up except the FB
connected
to pin A3?

Or did you add any addtional modifications, buttons etc?

73, Allard PE1NWL



Re: R15 and ADE-1 mixer getting very hot

 

Can we check for reverse mounting - as the item is expected to be mounted on solder side.
?please let us check for any improper orientation.

all the best
?sarma
?vu3zmv

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 5:27 PM, William Hemmingsen <lee.hemmingsen@...> wrote:
I checked all the traces, an I see no bridges.? I removed the ADE-1 and shorted pin1 to 6 using a wire.? Now no longer does R15 get hot.? So that eliminates anything in that path.? So that leads me down the ADE-1 rabbit hole.? I suspect current is flowing from ADE pin1 to ground when 12v is applied.? I checked the resistances from ADE pad pin 2 & 3 to ground and they open (as expected with blocking caps c18,c19,c11,c15).

But this makes no since, because I have used ADE-1's from 2 different vendors all with same results.? Obviously in the ADE-1 pin1 (primary ground) and Secondary ground are connected.? This send 12v into the pin diodes.? But with no DC load on pins 2 or 3, this should act as an open circuit for DC.

Now I'm really lost


W4WHL

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 6:24 AM, Lawrence Galea <9h1avlaw@...> wrote:
Check for a solder bridge or a tiny copper trace that remained when the pcb was etched.
You can use a magnifier or a meter to check it.
What you might also do is to run a knife between the tracks to remove any tiny bridge that may not be easily visible.
I also had a piece of equipment where the pcb would short after some time and if you switch off and leave it for a few minutes it would go open again and then again short after a few minutes.
I had to isolate the respective contact, strip a little bit of track and connect the component a little furtehr because it appeared to be some contamination in the material itself shorting after a few minutes.
You learn by experience when things do what they shouldn't do.
Regards
Lawrence

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 2:47 AM, William Hemmingsen <lee.hemmingsen@...> wrote:


R15-c17 junction to ground is 13.3k.? I removed c17 and no change.? FYI R11 & Q7 are also removed.? So this resistance is 100% in the ADE-1 itself (as its the only thing left).

If I recall correctly, when R11 is in the circuit the resistance is 2k as expected.

Even with R11, Q7, C17 out of circuit R15 gets burn you hot when you apply 12v.

Also my ADE-1 is mounted the same as your attached picture.

I took a brand new ADE-1 from reel and measured resistance from pin 1 to 2 = 20k? & pin 1 to 5 = 40k.? if I remove R15, the ADE-1 on the board matches this.? This makes no sense, because those resistances should limit current.? My guess is the resistance goes down when the diodes are biased...Just a wild guess.? But when 12v is applied R15 heats up like there is a short.

With all components installed; When power is applied I measured the voltage at R15-c17 junction which equals only 1.5v (it should be close to 12v correct?).? Gate voltage of Q17 is only .7v. ? So this would leave me to guess that when power is applied the ade-1 must go to ~12 ohms to drop the voltage that much.

I'm lost

W4WHL






--
Regards
Sarma
?


Re: R15 and ADE-1 mixer getting very hot

 

I checked all the traces, an I see no bridges.? I removed the ADE-1 and shorted pin1 to 6 using a wire.? Now no longer does R15 get hot.? So that eliminates anything in that path.? So that leads me down the ADE-1 rabbit hole.? I suspect current is flowing from ADE pin1 to ground when 12v is applied.? I checked the resistances from ADE pad pin 2 & 3 to ground and they open (as expected with blocking caps c18,c19,c11,c15).

But this makes no since, because I have used ADE-1's from 2 different vendors all with same results.? Obviously in the ADE-1 pin1 (primary ground) and Secondary ground are connected.? This send 12v into the pin diodes.? But with no DC load on pins 2 or 3, this should act as an open circuit for DC.

Now I'm really lost


W4WHL

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 6:24 AM, Lawrence Galea <9h1avlaw@...> wrote:
Check for a solder bridge or a tiny copper trace that remained when the pcb was etched.
You can use a magnifier or a meter to check it.
What you might also do is to run a knife between the tracks to remove any tiny bridge that may not be easily visible.
I also had a piece of equipment where the pcb would short after some time and if you switch off and leave it for a few minutes it would go open again and then again short after a few minutes.
I had to isolate the respective contact, strip a little bit of track and connect the component a little furtehr because it appeared to be some contamination in the material itself shorting after a few minutes.
You learn by experience when things do what they shouldn't do.
Regards
Lawrence

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 2:47 AM, William Hemmingsen <lee.hemmingsen@...> wrote:


R15-c17 junction to ground is 13.3k.? I removed c17 and no change.? FYI R11 & Q7 are also removed.? So this resistance is 100% in the ADE-1 itself (as its the only thing left).

If I recall correctly, when R11 is in the circuit the resistance is 2k as expected.

Even with R11, Q7, C17 out of circuit R15 gets burn you hot when you apply 12v.

Also my ADE-1 is mounted the same as your attached picture.

I took a brand new ADE-1 from reel and measured resistance from pin 1 to 2 = 20k? & pin 1 to 5 = 40k.? if I remove R15, the ADE-1 on the board matches this.? This makes no sense, because those resistances should limit current.? My guess is the resistance goes down when the diodes are biased...Just a wild guess.? But when 12v is applied R15 heats up like there is a short.

With all components installed; When power is applied I measured the voltage at R15-c17 junction which equals only 1.5v (it should be close to 12v correct?).? Gate voltage of Q17 is only .7v. ? So this would leave me to guess that when power is applied the ade-1 must go to ~12 ohms to drop the voltage that much.

I'm lost

W4WHL




Re: R15 and ADE-1 mixer getting very hot

 

Check for a solder bridge or a tiny copper trace that remained when the pcb was etched.
You can use a magnifier or a meter to check it.
What you might also do is to run a knife between the tracks to remove any tiny bridge that may not be easily visible.
I also had a piece of equipment where the pcb would short after some time and if you switch off and leave it for a few minutes it would go open again and then again short after a few minutes.
I had to isolate the respective contact, strip a little bit of track and connect the component a little furtehr because it appeared to be some contamination in the material itself shorting after a few minutes.
You learn by experience when things do what they shouldn't do.
Regards
Lawrence

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 2:47 AM, William Hemmingsen <lee.hemmingsen@...> wrote:


R15-c17 junction to ground is 13.3k.? I removed c17 and no change.? FYI R11 & Q7 are also removed.? So this resistance is 100% in the ADE-1 itself (as its the only thing left).

If I recall correctly, when R11 is in the circuit the resistance is 2k as expected.

Even with R11, Q7, C17 out of circuit R15 gets burn you hot when you apply 12v.

Also my ADE-1 is mounted the same as your attached picture.

I took a brand new ADE-1 from reel and measured resistance from pin 1 to 2 = 20k? & pin 1 to 5 = 40k.? if I remove R15, the ADE-1 on the board matches this.? This makes no sense, because those resistances should limit current.? My guess is the resistance goes down when the diodes are biased...Just a wild guess.? But when 12v is applied R15 heats up like there is a short.

With all components installed; When power is applied I measured the voltage at R15-c17 junction which equals only 1.5v (it should be close to 12v correct?).? Gate voltage of Q17 is only .7v. ? So this would leave me to guess that when power is applied the ade-1 must go to ~12 ohms to drop the voltage that much.

I'm lost

W4WHL



Re: Issues With calibrate and TX

 

I'm modded out with s meter forward and reverse power measuring.? I have 1 button and 1 switch. ?tried unhooking the switch all together but still happens may have to try shielded wires for the control lines.? Twisting may not be working.? I run a single end of a ground wrapped around wires for shielding. ?calibrate is my only prob doesn't interfere with any other functions beside calibrate.? I've tried different LIBs and still an issue.? Started unhooking thinks yesterday and couldn't find the root.? So I only load code to calibrate when I need to and load the commented out code after I calibrate.? Just extra work.

On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 3:50 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote:

Steve,

Just to understand your situation better, what is exactly your setup?

Standard unmodified BITX40 board with raduino_v1.07 (or 1.08) with the standard PTT switch? No other pushbuttons wired up except the FB connected to pin A3?

Or did you add any addtional modifications, buttons etc?

73, Allard PE1NWL



Re: Issues With calibrate and TX

 

Steve,

Just to understand your situation better, what is exactly your setup?

Standard unmodified BITX40 board with raduino_v1.07 (or 1.08) with the standard PTT switch? No other pushbuttons wired up except the FB connected to pin A3?

Or did you add any addtional modifications, buttons etc?

73, Allard PE1NWL


Re: Was Noob in need of some assistance. Now: [BITX20] Input antenna attenuation?

 

OK,

As Steve has posted, did you get any IF (12mHZ) response ?

Another quick and dirty test. If you have access to a general coverage receiver use the draped wire (near the first mixer) this time plugged into the antenna socket of a general coverage RX and see if you can tune in to the LO signal @ 5mHz. Use SSB and find the LO signal, tune off about 1kHz and listen to the tone. Often this gives an indication of the quality of the LO signal. Nice clean tone = good, dirty hashy tone = bad. This test will not give you the level of the LO signal but it is good to see if you have an LO signal and at what frequency and gives an indication of its quality if not its level.

Best regards,

Peter

On 27-04-2017 13:59, stronggeek30s@... wrote:
The only thing i receive is static. ive set el cheapo sig gen to sweep
4.5mhz to 5.5mhz and 11mhz to 13 mhz and 6.5mhz to 7.5mhz (got those
ranges from the source code from the raduino src and xtal values plus
alot of fudge room) with a 3 foot length of 22awg wire hanging off the
center conductor of the sig gen i also tried sharing the ground and
un-grounded. it made no difference to the audio output of the bitx40.
also tried draping the wire over, under and around the bitx40 then
repeating said sweeps. the only thing coming out of the speaker is a
loud SHHHHHHHHHHHH like the old TV's from the 80's tuned to a non
existent channel.
I can cook up an attenuater to get the power to the right levels so
im not worried about that. just worried about how much is too much :)
..I just want to force a signal to see where it is getting hung up
without letting the magic blue smoke out. probe every component from
the bnc to antenna pins all the way to the audio amp.
I really dont think i am receiving anything. but then again static is
rf from somewhere right?
I do be new to analog and rf. ive done an atomic clock (rb standard)
with nixie display and alot of silly things with mcu's (pic's mostly).
hell i even built a small particle accelerator in my old garage and
timed the speed of light with a laser and a high precision timer on an
mcu :D i like to be educational for my nieces and nephews.
but analog and rf are voodoo and magic to me. Someday I hope to be a
Wizard muahahahaha
Links:
------
[1] /g/BITX20/message/25655
[2] /mt/4971398?uid=236039
[3] /g/BITX20/post
[4] /g/BITX20/editsub?uid=236039
[5] /g/BITX20
[6] /static/tos
[7] /g/BITX20/leave/defanged


Re: Was Noob in need of some assistance. Now: [BITX20] Input antenna attenuation?

 

Let us hear a recording clip of the hiss. Might give a clue.

At 27-04-2017, you wrote:


The only thing i receive is static. ive set el cheapo sig gen to sweep 4.5mhz to 5.5mhz and 11mhz to 13 mhz and 6.5mhz to 7.5mhz (got those ranges from the source code from the raduino src and xtal values plus alot of fudge room) with a 3 foot length of 22awg wire hanging off the center conductor of the sig gen i also tried sharing the ground and un-grounded. it made no difference to the audio output of the bitx40. also tried draping the wire over, under and around the bitx40 then repeating said sweeps. the only thing coming out of the speaker is a loud SHHHHHHHHHHHH like the old TV's from the 80's tuned to a non existent channel.


Re: raduino_v1.08 released

 

Thanks Allard !

Will load it upto the board tonight


73 ON2AAV


Re: Was Noob in need of some assistance. Now: [BITX20] Input antenna attenuation?

 

On 27/04/17 15:59, stronggeek30s@... wrote:

The only thing i receive is static.
What if you 12MHz sweep the input to the IF near the crystal filter near
C61 ?

Use a small metallic screwdriver in your hand and start from the audio
amp and work backwards toward the RX front end - just touch parts of the
circuit and you should hear some sort of disturbance in the speaker output.

S