Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?
Rich, you're right, you have to insolate the IRF510 from the chassis with a TO-220 insulation kit.?
It's done all the time.
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On Jan 21, 2017, at 5:18 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: Where did you get your cases? And isn't there a problem with grounding the tab on the IRF510? I haven't looked too closely at the corners of my Bitx PCB yet, but most PCB's I have worked with have ground pads around the corner mounting holes, and I'm concerned that if I mount my PCB to a metal case with screws and the supplied standoffs, then heatsink the IRF510 to the case, I'll end up shorting something out. Please correct me if that ISN'T an issue here. I just don't want to accidentally blow something...
Rich KC8MWG
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 8:04 PM, Joel Caulkins <caulktel@...> wrote:
Rich,
I can't make very good cases at all, that's why I have to buy them:-( Joel? KB6QVI On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:59 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: Only thing is, I will (hopefully) be using a 3D printed enclosure, rather than a metal one. I have a 3D printer, but I have absolutely ZERO experience making metal enclosures.
Rich KC8MWG
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 7:55 PM, Joel Caulkins <caulktel@...> wrote:
Rich,
What I have done on several of my rigs is to bolt the IRF510 to the rear panel of a metal enclosure with a TO-220 insulating kit to isolate it from ground. I find it runs stone cold at 7-8 watts for extended transmissions. Unfortunately the IRF510 on the BitX40 is not flush with the edge of the PCB, (something I would really like to see if there is ever a rev 2 board produced), so I had to cut a 1/16 inch aluminum spacer to bolt to rear chassis, and then mount the 510 to that, but I would guarantee it would stay plenty cool at 20 watts and you could even bolt a small heat sink on the back panel if additional cooling was needed.? On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:36 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: I plan to build my Bitx40 with a DPDT toggle switch, so that I can switch between "low" (12v) and "high" (20v-24v) power input to the IRF510 (using a boost converter to get the higher voltage). What I an wondering, though, is how much more heat-sinking will I need for the IRF510, running it at higher power? Can anyone recommend a particular heatsink to use?
Rich KC8MWG
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Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?
The drain of the IRF510 is connected to the tab. You must NOT ground it. Also it is a good idea to minimize its effect as there is RF on the tab.
Hence, some heat-sink the device but without isolation from it, keeping the heat-sink ungrounded. I don't think this is a very good idea as it expands the area for RF radiation.
There must be a metal heat-sink of some kind for the IRF510 (and most if not all final RF transistors for that matter). For 20 watts or so, one of 8-10 sq. in. is probably enough. Mount the tab with a mica or other insulating shield between it and the metal, and a plastic or other insulating grommet for the screw. Use heat-sink grease underneath the mica (lithium auto bearing grease works well; don't overdo it!).
The RF MOSFETS like the RDxxHHF's have the tab connected to the source, and this is usually grounded anyway, so it is not an issue. But they still require metal heat-sinks.
john
AD5YE
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Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?
Where did you get your cases? And isn't there a problem with grounding the tab on the IRF510? I haven't looked too closely at the corners of my Bitx PCB yet, but most PCB's I have worked with have ground pads around the corner mounting holes, and I'm concerned that if I mount my PCB to a metal case with screws and the supplied standoffs, then heatsink the IRF510 to the case, I'll end up shorting something out. Please correct me if that ISN'T an issue here. I just don't want to accidentally blow something...
Rich KC8MWG
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 8:04 PM, Joel Caulkins <caulktel@...> wrote:
Rich,
I can't make very good cases at all, that's why I have to buy them:-( Joel? KB6QVI On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:59 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: Only thing is, I will (hopefully) be using a 3D printed enclosure, rather than a metal one. I have a 3D printer, but I have absolutely ZERO experience making metal enclosures.
Rich KC8MWG
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 7:55 PM, Joel Caulkins <caulktel@...> wrote:
Rich,
What I have done on several of my rigs is to bolt the IRF510 to the rear panel of a metal enclosure with a TO-220 insulating kit to isolate it from ground. I find it runs stone cold at 7-8 watts for extended transmissions. Unfortunately the IRF510 on the BitX40 is not flush with the edge of the PCB, (something I would really like to see if there is ever a rev 2 board produced), so I had to cut a 1/16 inch aluminum spacer to bolt to rear chassis, and then mount the 510 to that, but I would guarantee it would stay plenty cool at 20 watts and you could even bolt a small heat sink on the back panel if additional cooling was needed.? On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:36 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: I plan to build my Bitx40 with a DPDT toggle switch, so that I can switch between "low" (12v) and "high" (20v-24v) power input to the IRF510 (using a boost converter to get the higher voltage). What I an wondering, though, is how much more heat-sinking will I need for the IRF510, running it at higher power? Can anyone recommend a particular heatsink to use?
Rich KC8MWG
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Re: Why 16x2 LCD instead of 20x4?
Jack, sounds great, some photos or even a simple video would really help me understand. I understand if you don't have time.
Roy WA0YMH
On Jan 21, 2017 5:24 PM, "d p via Groups.Io" <dave.g4ufs= [email protected]> wrote: Jack,
The best way I found was to make the front from single sided fibreglass PCB.
Carefully cut a hole that the LCD will fit through. As close as possible to the outside dimensions of the LCD bezel.
Screw brass standoffs into the holes of the LCD and then fit the LCD into the hole. Now solder the standoffs to the PCB material. This will leave you with a mounted LCD and you won't see any screws on the front panel.
To get a really Pro. finish, print a bezel with all the labelling you want including a square surround slightly less than the dimensions of the PCB .Then with a scalpel or sharp blade, cut the printed surround so that when you mount it to the front panel, the surround covers any mistakes made while cutting the PCB.?
Once you have done that, laminate the printed bezel and then glue it to the front panel. The LCD will show through the window that's created by the hole you cut.
Hope that makes sense. If all that sounds interesting and I haven't explained it too well, let me know and I'll take some pictures:)
73 Dave G4UFS On 21 Jan 2017, at 16:43, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io < econjack@...> wrote: Dave:
How did you make/buy the bezel for your display? I'm having a hard time finding something.
Jack, W8TEE
My BiTX20 with 20x4 LCD.?
As Jerry and Jack said, this is not exactly a cakewalk.
Yes,it is a trivial matter to drive the display; there is basically one library to handle many different displays. This is true no matter what the display chip, as long as one accounts for the right one. Of course, graphic displays have such things as fonts to help fill up space in the mcu.
The problem is having enough room for the other functions. There is enough flash ram to accomodate many functions, but it is easy to overflow the limited amount of sram and give very strange results. One easy way is to call nested subroutines. Another is to have too many successive interrupts. These are not easy to predict. Hence the suggestion for a larger more capable mcu (like the 2560 or the Teensy). Yeah, you gotta learn something more...so what else is new? Etc...
Yes, the Nano can handle some more functions. But one never knows until the event when one more is too many. And these are among the hardest things to troubleshoot in all computers.
john
AD5YE
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Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?
Rich,
I can't make very good cases at all, that's why I have to buy them:-( Joel? KB6QVI
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On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:59 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: Only thing is, I will (hopefully) be using a 3D printed enclosure, rather than a metal one. I have a 3D printer, but I have absolutely ZERO experience making metal enclosures.
Rich KC8MWG
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 7:55 PM, Joel Caulkins <caulktel@...> wrote:
Rich,
What I have done on several of my rigs is to bolt the IRF510 to the rear panel of a metal enclosure with a TO-220 insulating kit to isolate it from ground. I find it runs stone cold at 7-8 watts for extended transmissions. Unfortunately the IRF510 on the BitX40 is not flush with the edge of the PCB, (something I would really like to see if there is ever a rev 2 board produced), so I had to cut a 1/16 inch aluminum spacer to bolt to rear chassis, and then mount the 510 to that, but I would guarantee it would stay plenty cool at 20 watts and you could even bolt a small heat sink on the back panel if additional cooling was needed.? On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:36 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: I plan to build my Bitx40 with a DPDT toggle switch, so that I can switch between "low" (12v) and "high" (20v-24v) power input to the IRF510 (using a boost converter to get the higher voltage). What I an wondering, though, is how much more heat-sinking will I need for the IRF510, running it at higher power? Can anyone recommend a particular heatsink to use?
Rich KC8MWG
|
Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?
Only thing is, I will (hopefully) be using a 3D printed enclosure, rather than a metal one. I have a 3D printer, but I have absolutely ZERO experience making metal enclosures.
Rich KC8MWG
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 7:55 PM, Joel Caulkins <caulktel@...> wrote:
Rich,
What I have done on several of my rigs is to bolt the IRF510 to the rear panel of a metal enclosure with a TO-220 insulating kit to isolate it from ground. I find it runs stone cold at 7-8 watts for extended transmissions. Unfortunately the IRF510 on the BitX40 is not flush with the edge of the PCB, (something I would really like to see if there is ever a rev 2 board produced), so I had to cut a 1/16 inch aluminum spacer to bolt to rear chassis, and then mount the 510 to that, but I would guarantee it would stay plenty cool at 20 watts and you could even bolt a small heat sink on the back panel if additional cooling was needed.? On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:36 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: I plan to build my Bitx40 with a DPDT toggle switch, so that I can switch between "low" (12v) and "high" (20v-24v) power input to the IRF510 (using a boost converter to get the higher voltage). What I an wondering, though, is how much more heat-sinking will I need for the IRF510, running it at higher power? Can anyone recommend a particular heatsink to use?
Rich KC8MWG
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Re: (Raduino) A Duhhh.... Moment
Yep, that's all I did. Some people say you need to remove C92 and C93 also, but it didn't make any difference on mine when I did. Joel? KB6QVI
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On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:41 PM, KC8WBK via Groups.Io < cruisenewsnet@...> wrote: How do you disable the on-board VFO? Remove L4?
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Re: (Raduino) A Duhhh.... Moment
Yes - L4 is right next to the plug where you connect the DDS. ?Remove L4 and the on-board VFO no longer works. ?I have been advised that the new boards shipped with the Raduino include a yellow core with 50 turns so folks that want to try the VFO instead of the DDS can do so. ?
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Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?
Rich,
What I have done on several of my rigs is to bolt the IRF510 to the rear panel of a metal enclosure with a TO-220 insulating kit to isolate it from ground. I find it runs stone cold at 7-8 watts for extended transmissions. Unfortunately the IRF510 on the BitX40 is not flush with the edge of the PCB, (something I would really like to see if there is ever a rev 2 board produced), so I had to cut a 1/16 inch aluminum spacer to bolt to rear chassis, and then mount the 510 to that, but I would guarantee it would stay plenty cool at 20 watts and you could even bolt a small heat sink on the back panel if additional cooling was needed.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:36 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io < ihc73scout2@...> wrote: I plan to build my Bitx40 with a DPDT toggle switch, so that I can switch between "low" (12v) and "high" (20v-24v) power input to the IRF510 (using a boost converter to get the higher voltage). What I an wondering, though, is how much more heat-sinking will I need for the IRF510, running it at higher power? Can anyone recommend a particular heatsink to use?
Rich KC8MWG
|
Just as an FYI, there are several different 3D printable bezels for 16 x 3 LCD's available on Thingiverse. This is the one I like, and will most likely use, as it has built-in standoffs to screw the electronics to:
Rich KC8MWG
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Re: (Raduino) A Duhhh.... Moment
How do you disable the on-board VFO? Remove L4?
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Better heatsink for IRF510?
I plan to build my Bitx40 with a DPDT toggle switch, so that I can switch between "low" (12v) and "high" (20v-24v) power input to the IRF510 (using a boost converter to get the higher voltage). What I an wondering, though, is how much more heat-sinking will I need for the IRF510, running it at higher power? Can anyone recommend a particular heatsink to use?
Rich KC8MWG
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The Chinese Deek Robot Nano's and the Pro Micro's are cheap and very reliable, I've used dozens of them and never had one fail, as for the displays, everybody copies each other so they basically are all the same, get the cheapest ones you can find. I prefer the blue backlighted ones myself. Joel? KB6QVI
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On Jan 21, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io < jgaffke@...> wrote: That's two failed Raduinos reported here. ? This one and post 20214: ?"Bad TX audio SOLVED. Not fixed." Makes me wonder if there's an issue, perhaps needs protection from power supply surges, or perhaps something gets destroyed when a ground wire detaches. Or perhaps it's just that 1% of the Nano's have a cold solder joint somewhere. Would be nice if the Si5351 got moved to the main board, then everything else is easily available off the web. Any recommended vendors for the Nano and display? ?
Jerry, KE7ER
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Re: Low Power - Final Amplifier on through - hole kit
? ? Thanks Leonard for finding this page I was needing it and I need to know also the voltages in Q1 (2N3866) if you know please pass me ok?? ? Jorge PY2PVT _._
I agree. Some of the below displays may be somewhat different as there will be harmonics at most points before the low pass filter.
I found the web page I was looking for. This should give plenty of information to isolate a problem in the pa. Leonard
-- ? 73 de Jorge PY2PVT
? Campinas SP
? GG67MD
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Re: Why 16x2 LCD instead of 20x4?
Jack,
The best way I found was to make the front from single sided fibreglass PCB.
Carefully cut a hole that the LCD will fit through. As close as possible to the outside dimensions of the LCD bezel.
Screw brass standoffs into the holes of the LCD and then fit the LCD into the hole. Now solder the standoffs to the PCB material. This will leave you with a mounted LCD and you won't see any screws on the front panel.
To get a really Pro. finish, print a bezel with all the labelling you want including a square surround slightly less than the dimensions of the PCB .Then with a scalpel or sharp blade, cut the printed surround so that when you mount it to the front panel, the surround covers any mistakes made while cutting the PCB.?
Once you have done that, laminate the printed bezel and then glue it to the front panel. The LCD will show through the window that's created by the hole you cut.
Hope that makes sense. If all that sounds interesting and I haven't explained it too well, let me know and I'll take some pictures:)
73 Dave G4UFS
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Show quoted text
On 21 Jan 2017, at 16:43, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io < econjack@...> wrote: Dave:
How did you make/buy the bezel for your display? I'm having a hard time finding something.
Jack, W8TEE
From: d p via Groups.Io <dave.g4ufs@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 5:07 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Why 16x2 LCD instead of 20x4?
My BiTX20 with 20x4 LCD.?
On 21 Jan 2017, at 06:31, John Backo via Groups.Io < iam74@...> wrote: As Jerry and Jack said, this is not exactly a cakewalk.
Yes,it is a trivial matter to drive the display; there is basically one library to handle many different displays. This is true no matter what the display chip, as long as one accounts for the right one. Of course, graphic displays have such things as fonts to help fill up space in the mcu.
The problem is having enough room for the other functions. There is enough flash ram to accomodate many functions, but it is easy to overflow the limited amount of sram and give very strange results. One easy way is to call nested subroutines. Another is to have too many successive interrupts. These are not easy to predict. Hence the suggestion for a larger more capable mcu (like the 2560 or the Teensy). Yeah, you gotta learn something more...so what else is new? Etc...
Yes, the Nano can handle some more functions. But one never knows until the event when one more is too many. And these are among the hardest things to troubleshoot in all computers.
john
AD5YE
|
That's two failed Raduinos reported here. ? This one and post 20214: ?"Bad TX audio SOLVED. Not fixed." Makes me wonder if there's an issue, perhaps needs protection from power supply surges, or perhaps something gets destroyed when a ground wire detaches. Or perhaps it's just that 1% of the Nano's have a cold solder joint somewhere. Would be nice if the Si5351 got moved to the main board, then everything else is easily available off the web. Any recommended vendors for the Nano and display? ?
Jerry, KE7ER
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Re: Alternative to using EEPROM for NV storage
I would provide power to the Arduino constantly so it's always running and just have it run a relay or two to turn the power on/off to the rig and lcd display.? You could even put a nc relay on the Arduino power input and if the button was held down for x amount of seconds it would open the relay and drop power to the Arduino, once the power was dropped the nc relay would restore power and reboot the Arduino...kind of like how a PC can be forced to shut down by holding the power button down. Doing that, it really wouldn't be necessary to write to the eeprom to hold the freq between operating sessions unless you wanted to keep the last freq if power were completely removed. Many appliances do this, turnining off the power button just puts it into a low power mode.? Your PC does this too - the purple wire of the PC power supply always has 5v on it so the board knows when you press the power button.
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(Raduino) A Duhhh.... Moment
Ok - the Raduino arrived a few days ago. Spent a couple of days making a rectangular hole for the display and got the screws to line up. ?Bolted the Raduino to the front panel and powered it on. ?Upside down.. ?Corrected that then thought the contrast needed to be adjusted to get rid of the grey rectangles. ?Took it apart and fiddeled with the trim pot - no go as the pot is already at minimum. ?Still need to fiddle with that.
Unsoldered the wires from the 10k linear pot and soldered on the wires from the Raduino. ?It tunes in the "right" direction - Yay!!! - even a blind hog gets an acorn now and then. Tuning across the band, I heard nothing - just an incredibly strong signal at 7.1998 and as I tried to tune it in it sounded like some kind of ?>>VERY<< slow RTTY. ?At first I thought a birdie from the DDS. ?That thought lasted about 10 seconds - Why the "modulation"?
Two answers. ?(Here is where the Duhhhh... comes in)
1) ?I hadn't disabled the on-board VFO and I was listening to the beat of the DDS and VFO.
2) ?The "Modulation" is the DDS jumping 100hz as it flickers between frequencies on the last digit. (capacitor not yet installed) OK ?- I confess, I'm a guy and following directions aren't among my strong skills. (Just ask the XYL)
Any way - having a blast with the Bitx. Thanks to everybody that has contributed to the success of this project.
73 - Tom in St. Louis
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Re: I was able to compile the BITX40 code
Hi Jack
My copy arrived yesterday. Haven't started reading yet, but a quick glance, looks to be an excellent book. Thanks Jack.
73
Ken VA3ABN
On Sat, Jan 21, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote: Randy:
Another source for people who have absolutely no programming background with the Arduino (or anything else), I might suggest...ahem...
Read the reviews and see if it sounds like something that might help you understand the Raduino code. Also note that you can click on the cover and read the Table of Contents. You can then click on a chapter and read a few pages from that chapter. It would give you a feel at least for how the book is written. The first chapter would help you get the IDE environment set up properly and chapter 12 discusses how to use the libraries. There are more reviews on the first edition, even though the 2nd edition is a better book.
Jack, W8TEE
From: Randy Hall <listk7age@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 11:50 AM
Subject: [BITX20] I was able to compile the BITX40 code
Hi To me, as a non-programmer guy, this is a huge step. Since I struggled a bit, I thought I would show how I got it working.
I am using IDE version?1.6.12. BITX40 code from - Inside the sketch, it says to get the Si5351 library from - Install the library, search for how to do this, lots of info on the internet...
Select TOOLS - Board - Arduino?Nano When I clicked Verify I saw this as the first error ?????si5351.set_freq((bfo_freq + cal - frequency) * 100LL, ?SI5351_PLL_FIXED, SI5351_CLK2);?
????raduino:313: error: no matching function for call to 'Si5351::set_freq(long long unsigned int, long long unsigned int, si5351_clock)' I have no idea what this gobbledygook means. But, it is probably bad...
So, I searched the message archives for any hints. I found that?Ron ¨C PA3FAT said that??Si5351 library version 1.1.2 should be used. Under SKETCH?- Include Library - Manage Libraries? Filter for etherkit, you should see Etherkit Si5351 by Jason ... Ver 2.0.1 INSTALLED. Ah, not version .1.1.2 Go to Select Vers, pick 1.1.2 and click Install. Clicked Verify again, and it complied successfully.
I am no expert in the Arduino programming environment. I have experimented with some simple sketches. I have watched most of??Arduino?videos. Paul has a series of Arduino videos that he has made for his students. If you have the Feb QST, Paul is the high school teacher of the of the students in the Edge of Space article. These kids have done an amazing job. Many of the students have their licenses. When I feel brave, I may try uploading the code into my Raduino. I hope this helps. When things don't go as you expect, slow down, search, think and have a cup of coffee (or tea in UK land). 73 & good luck Randy, K7AGE
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Re: Alternative to using EEPROM for NV storage
Steve:
Off the top of my head, if the shutdown is a power switch, how do you do the update without power? It could be done, but it would require additional hardware. I have a feeling that a super capacitor would have enough charge to perform a shutdown routine. That routine could be triggered any time a power loss occurs...purposeful or accidental. That might be the simplest. I'm sure there are hardware people out there with a much better answer.
Jack, W8TEE
From: Steve Robertson <bobs_otr@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Alternative to using EEPROM for NV storage
Hi Jack and Mike,
Fram is just another tool in the tool kit.? I'm paying more attention to longevity these days due to my eye problems, what I'm capable of today I may not be capable of tomorrow.
Library and Arduino IDE updates breaking code is annoying too, though I've taken to saving a hex of finished projects and just using XLoader in the future if I need to create another and that avoids these problems.
This is probably more suited to things like encoder tallies that need to be kept accurate.
If you were looking to simply come back to the freq you were on after a power cycle couldn't you just tie a shut down routine to a button press?? i.e. power button pressed, save all settings you want to save in nv ram, then shut down, then you'd only write to eeprom every shut down.? It wouldn't work if the power were unexpectedly removed, but how often would that happen?
73,
Steve, KA0NEB
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Joel Caulkins/N6ALT
Tom Clifton