Rich, you're right, you have to insolate the IRF510 from the chassis with a TO-220 insulation kit.?
It's done all the time.
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On Jan 21, 2017, at 5:18 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io <
ihc73scout2@...> wrote:
Where did you get your cases? And isn't there a problem with grounding the tab on the IRF510? I haven't looked too closely at the corners of my Bitx PCB yet, but most PCB's I have worked with have ground pads around the corner mounting holes, and I'm concerned that if I mount my PCB to a metal case with screws and the supplied standoffs, then heatsink the IRF510 to the case, I'll end up shorting something out. Please correct me if that ISN'T an issue here. I just don't want to accidentally blow something...
Rich
KC8MWG
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 8:04 PM, Joel Caulkins <caulktel@...> wrote:
Rich,
I can't make very good cases at all, that's why I have to buy them:-(
Joel?
KB6QVI
On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:59 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io <
ihc73scout2@...> wrote:
Only thing is, I will (hopefully) be using a 3D printed enclosure, rather than a metal one. I have a 3D printer, but I have absolutely ZERO experience making metal enclosures.
Rich
KC8MWG
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 7:55 PM, Joel Caulkins <caulktel@...> wrote:
Rich,
What I have done on several of my rigs is to bolt the IRF510 to the rear panel of a metal enclosure with a TO-220 insulating kit to isolate it from ground. I find it runs stone cold at 7-8 watts for extended transmissions. Unfortunately the IRF510 on the BitX40 is not flush with the edge of the PCB, (something I would really like to see if there is ever a rev 2 board produced), so I had to cut a 1/16 inch aluminum spacer to bolt to rear chassis, and then mount the 510 to that, but I would guarantee it would stay plenty cool at 20 watts and you could even bolt a small heat sink on the back panel if additional cooling was needed.?
On Jan 21, 2017, at 4:36 PM, Richard Andrew Knack via Groups.Io <
ihc73scout2@...> wrote:
I plan to build my Bitx40 with a DPDT toggle switch, so that I can switch between "low" (12v) and "high" (20v-24v) power input to the IRF510 (using a boost converter to get the higher voltage). What I an wondering, though, is how much more heat-sinking will I need for the IRF510, running it at higher power? Can anyone recommend a particular heatsink to use?
Rich
KC8MWG
Joel Caulkins/N6ALT