Hi all?
Has anyone got a link to a kit with all the smd? soldered to the board?
many thanks?
? Gary M0OTL?
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Re: Tuner always in Test Mode
Yep that fixed it! Thanks again!
Dave KC3GPM?
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Re: Tuner always in Test Mode
Thanks, Yves! That makes total sense. I’ll fix it and report back.
Dave KC3GPM?
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Re: Tuner always in Test Mode
Hi Dave,
You don'thave to connect the via points to the ground. Ground connections go on the other side of the capacitors and buttons. In other words, the capacitor is connected in parallel to the button. One side to the via point and the other to the ground.
When you connect ground to the via points, rb1 and rb2 are activated all the time.?
73 Yves ON4KCY?
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-------- Original message -------- From: "Dave via groups.io" <dave.kc3gpm@...> Date: 27/09/2020 23:24 (GMT+01:00) Subject: [ATU100] Tuner always in Test Mode
Hello, When I only had the tune button connected, the tuner started up in a normal mode. Now that I have added the auto and bypass buttons, it always starts in test mode. I have the caps connected across the switch terminals with one terminal connected to ground, and the other connected to either RB1 or RB2 on the board. I then have a wire from both vias on the board connected to ground. Does this sound correct, need more info, etc? Any and all feedback is welcome. Thanks & 73, Dave KC3GPM?
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Tuner always in Test Mode
Hello,
When I only had the tune button connected, the tuner started up in a normal mode.
Now that I have added the auto and bypass buttons, it always starts in test mode. I have the caps connected across the switch terminals with one terminal connected to ground, and the other connected to either RB1 or RB2 on the board. I then have a wire from both vias on the board connected to ground. Does this sound correct, need more info, etc?
Any and all feedback is welcome.
Thanks & 73,
Dave KC3GPM?
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Re: Power meausurment calibration
Hello,
Thank you all for the comment and hints
I really look forward getting the voltage readings form Russ
I will order some new torroid the wire in the kit was some teflon looking wire so i do not think this is a problem
73 Frans PE0F
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Re: Power meausurment calibration
I found that the first two kits I received had real sharp edges inside the toroids. I had to take a xacto knife and smooth them as I knew they would cut and shot the wire to them.
If you order the specified per schematic from "kitsandparts.com", you will end up with better toroids and plenty of room for the inside of RG-174 coax.
Hope this helps.
Ron
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Re: Power meausurment calibration
Frans
If you measure with a voltmeter on the cathode end of the schottky diode (before the voltage divider), do you still see the same degree of error between the readings on low band vs 28MHz?
If so, then you may have an issue with the ferrite. You may want to measure the 10 turn winding with an LCR meter. It should indicate around 220uH.
If you need to replace the binocular core ferrite, you can get genuine BN43-202 ferrites from Diz at Kits and Parts. I have some on order myself.
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Re: learning opportunity.
In the manual's section "change of default settings", N7DDC mentions for cell 31 " If the power does not exceed 40 watts, it makes sense to use a tandem-match with a ratio of 1: 5 turns, which will allow to work better with a minimum power of 1-5
watts." I believe cell 31 should then be changed to a value of 05.
What wasn't clear to me was that cell 05 also needs to be changed to 01, so the tuning starts at 1W. I didn't realize this until I perused the Issues section of N7DDC's github page.
Of course, once you rewind the tandem match for QRP, you should transmit more than 40 watts, or you will exceed the 4 volt limit on RA1.
I haven't rewound my tandem match yet, so ymmv...
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Re: learning opportunity.
Russ, They mention in the paperwork that you should not lower the tune wattage lower than 5 watts as it does not give GG ou the best results when in tune mode. Rather not giving you the best match. I have not figured that one out yet?
Ron
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Re: Power meausurment calibration
Frans,
Most likely you have a mis-wound coil or the input pin from fwd power to the pic chip got shorted to another pin.
I am working on my own kit now as I built a couple for some friends. When finished and tested, I will post voltage readings to the group pn all thing's that matter. Stay tuned!
73s Ron/W4DNQ?
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Power meausurment calibration
Hello all,
I tried to understand the power calibration on the SWR bridge
But it is unclear what the reading is
I have KX3 set to 10 watt and connected a dummy load as antenna on the output of the tuner
on low band the tuner display max 8.2 Watt not 10 like I would suspect
on higher band is it even worse only 3.8 watt forward power on 28MHz
Maybe it has to do with a cheap Chinese ferrite ?
Does any know a good source for the proper ferrite?
Or what would be other suggestion to get the power reading right
73 Frans PE0F
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Re: Wiring up RB1 & RB2 for ATU100 extended
Hi Dave,
I just connect the capacitor between both pins on the push button.? It is just easier than on the PCB.? You need to connect a ground wire common to the 3 buttons.
73 Yves ON4KCY?
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
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-------- Original message -------- From: "Dave via groups.io" <dave.kc3gpm@...> Date: 22/09/2020 12:45 (GMT+01:00) Subject: Re: [ATU100] Wiring up RB1 & RB2 for ATU100 extended
I powered up last night with one button and no release of the magic smoke, so I’m happy about that. Now that I’m ready to wire up the last two buttons, I have one quick question. I understand the connection to the vias with the caps, and the connection to the ground. What I’m wondering is if I should have a connection from the ground back to each switch to complete the circuit? Call me paranoid, but I really hate magic smoke! :-) Thanks, Dave KC3GPM
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??? ??? Dr John ,
What is the minimum-power setup in EEPROM and what is your power
out from the UBITX ?
Check cells 4,5,6 and 9 of your EEPROM in PIC,? versus your
situation .
Also keep in mind that TX-power may drop if SWR is to high .
Willy
Op 12/09/2020 om 5:28 schreef JohnR:
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Hello
?I bought a kit and have put it together. I bought min from
aliexexpress with all of the surface mount parts pre-soldered and
the chip preloaded with Ver 3. Great kit but I am having a problem
that I think I am out of ideas on. I put the tuner in Automatic
and key the radio and it will read SWR, effiency and power out. It
will not actualy tune the antenna. I can put it in test mode and
it will go through the relays but I can't get the tuner to tune
it. I can key it and it will display tune and stay there until it
is reset. I am using a UBITX so the power shouldn't be a problem.
I did add the Auto and bypass and tune button. I installed a 104
capacitor across all three switches. Any ideas or suggestions
appreciated. 73 Kg4VHV John
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Re: Wiring up RB1 & RB2 for ATU100 extended
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Re: Wiring up RB1 & RB2 for ATU100 extended
In essence, you are momentarily grounding RB1 or RB2 to implement the Auto or Bypass modes, so the switches can be routed to any convenient ground point on the board.
And the 100 nF capacitor can be a discrete capacitor soldered to the switch terminals. It's there to keep stray RF off the PIC inputs...
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Re: Wiring up RB1 & RB2 for ATU100 extended
I powered up last night with one button and no release of the magic smoke, so I’m happy about that. Now that I’m ready to wire up the last two buttons, I have one quick question.
I understand the connection to the vias with the caps, and the connection to the ground. What I’m wondering is if I should have a connection from the ground back to each switch to complete the circuit? Call me paranoid, but I really hate magic smoke! :-)
Thanks,
Dave
KC3GPM
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Re: learning opportunity.
If you plan on using this tuner with QRP rigs, I would suggest removing 5 turns from each side of the BN43-202 and changing the EEPROM cell for QRP.
As for the power dropping over time, can you feel any heat coming from the ATU inductors? Just curious
de va3rr
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Hello Group
?Don was a big help in my previous problem but now the questions are starting to come up. If I put a dummy load on the output of the tuner I get a 1:1 SWR but only a 78% efficiency. I thought a 1:1 was a perfect match and should at least be in the 90s efficiency. I am using a UBITX but on CW the output isn't as high as in USB if you whistle into the radio. The watts also start out at 14W and quickly drop to 3.8w. Might be a quark of the radio but it goes against how I believe CW and SSB work. Now the big one. If I transmit into a dummy load and read 20VDC across a 50ohm load my math tells me I am putting out about 5W. The tuner is telling me that it is about 2.8W. Have I been figuring Watts wrong? Thanks for the help and learning opportunity.
73, John , KG4VHV
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Ron You have solved my problem. I hooked the tuner up to an FT857 and cranked it down to 10w and it tunes?right up. I had measured the output of the UBITX and it was putting out at least 7w on everything but 10m. So now I have to see what is going on there. Thank you for helping me with this.
“A single light can banish the darkness”
Lux e tenebris?
"A fool stares?at the finger that points at the moon"
I Ching
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va3rr