Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Wouldn't I just do the entire compartment floor?
I only saw the one photo of an area with what looked like a view of the driveway under. Doing a one piece patch is easier in some ways, and stronger,. But if the areas are not fairly contiguous then multiples will work. As to how to cut the pieces, I would do cardboard patterns until you have the exact shape(s)? you need. Some overlap larger than cutout areas obviously is needed, especially to bolt through. Then just use the cardboard to draw the shape onto both sheet metal ( hardware stores sell thin aluminum sheets about 2' x 2' or larger) and onto plywood ( exterior glue grade and nominal 1\2" thick). Metal snips or heavy duty scissors for aluminum and cheapest for plywood wood be aa saber saw (electric). Sabre saw won't do dead straight cuts but good enough. Drill for holes to bolt everything together. When done installing ( much easier with 2 people)'brush cost all exposed seams below with roofing tar. Easy peasu.?
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022, 1:35 PM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm still wondering if I can try it myself. You just answered the question as to how to attach it.? My biggest problem is cutting the pieces to fit.
The area by the wheel well is not spongey, but I'm assuming I still have to cut it out?? The hole itself is around a square foot, that was before I pulled up the vinyl and found the rest of the black under it.
The area under the rear bed is in the shape of an L which includes total to 20 inches across. It then extends toward the wheel well, including the hole. For another 28 X 8 inches . The wheel well us less than a square foot.
Having a much less expensive handyman type do a quick and dirty multilayer ¡°sandwich¡± repair of just the damaged (and fortunately easily accessible) floor area should last the life of the rest of the trailer. After cutting out the damage, which you say is only just over a square foot, he (or she) can place a piece of sheet metal and a piece of plywood above it under the opening, then a piece of plywood above the opening and then bolt through this sandwich to hold it all in place. Liberal tar covering it all underneath, plus sealing the suspect wheel well, should make this fully functional for years at little effort or expense. Do make sure there is no other water source that could damage your repaired floor.? A $3000 factory like new repair makes no economic sense. The repairs one can justify in a valuable Airstream should not be done in an older Aliner. None of us are going to use them for long enough or resell for high enough to ever recover that cost. This calls for functional goodenoughism. Even better if it doesn¡¯t require expensive specialist skills or can be a do it yourself repair. ? On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 9:34 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I only saw the one photo of an area with what looked like a view of the driveway under. Doing a one piece patch is easier in some ways, and stronger,. But if the areas are not fairly contiguous then multiples will work. As to how to cut the pieces, I would do cardboard patterns until you have the exact shape(s)? you need. Some overlap larger than cutout areas obviously is needed, especially to bolt through. Then just use the cardboard to draw the shape onto both sheet metal ( hardware stores sell thin aluminum sheets about 2' x 2' or larger) and onto plywood ( exterior glue grade and nominal 1\2" thick). Metal snips or heavy duty scissors for aluminum and cheapest for plywood wood be aa saber saw (electric). Sabre saw won't do dead straight cuts but good enough. Drill for holes to bolt everything together. When done installing ( much easier with 2 people)'brush cost all exposed seams below with roofing tar. Easy peasu.?
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022, 1:35 PM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm still wondering if I can try it myself. You just answered the question as to how to attach it.? My biggest problem is cutting the pieces to fit.
The area by the wheel well is not spongey, but I'm assuming I still have to cut it out?? The hole itself is around a square foot, that was before I pulled up the vinyl and found the rest of the black under it.
The area under the rear bed is in the shape of an L which includes total to 20 inches across. It then extends toward the wheel well, including the hole. For another 28 X 8 inches . The wheel well us less than a square foot.
Having a much less expensive handyman type do a quick and dirty multilayer ¡°sandwich¡± repair of just the damaged (and fortunately easily accessible) floor area should last the life of the rest of the trailer. After cutting out the damage, which you say is only just over a square foot, he (or she) can place a piece of sheet metal and a piece of plywood above it under the opening, then a piece of plywood above the opening and then bolt through this sandwich to hold it all in place. Liberal tar covering it all underneath, plus sealing the suspect wheel well, should make this fully functional for years at little effort or expense. Do make sure there is no other water source that could damage your repaired floor.? A $3000 factory like new repair makes no economic sense. The repairs one can justify in a valuable Airstream should not be done in an older Aliner. None of us are going to use them for long enough or resell for high enough to ever recover that cost. This calls for functional goodenoughism. Even better if it doesn¡¯t require expensive specialist skills or can be a do it yourself repair. ? On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 9:34 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I only saw the one photo of an area with what looked like a view of the driveway under. Doing a one piece patch is easier in some ways, and stronger,. But if the areas are not fairly contiguous then multiples will work. As to how to cut the pieces, I would do cardboard patterns until you have the exact shape(s)? you need. Some overlap larger than cutout areas obviously is needed, especially to bolt through. Then just use the cardboard to draw the shape onto both sheet metal ( hardware stores sell thin aluminum sheets about 2' x 2' or larger) and onto plywood ( exterior glue grade and nominal 1\2" thick). Metal snips or heavy duty scissors for aluminum and cheapest for plywood wood be aa saber saw (electric). Sabre saw won't do dead straight cuts but good enough. Drill for holes to bolt everything together. When done installing ( much easier with 2 people)'brush cost all exposed seams below with roofing tar. Easy peasu.?
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022, 1:35 PM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm still wondering if I can try it myself. You just answered the question as to how to attach it.? My biggest problem is cutting the pieces to fit.
The area by the wheel well is not spongey, but I'm assuming I still have to cut it out?? The hole itself is around a square foot, that was before I pulled up the vinyl and found the rest of the black under it.
The area under the rear bed is in the shape of an L which includes total to 20 inches across. It then extends toward the wheel well, including the hole. For another 28 X 8 inches . The wheel well us less than a square foot.
Having a much less expensive handyman type do a quick and dirty multilayer ¡°sandwich¡± repair of just the damaged (and fortunately easily accessible) floor area should last the life of the rest of the trailer. After cutting out the damage, which you say is only just over a square foot, he (or she) can place a piece of sheet metal and a piece of plywood above it under the opening, then a piece of plywood above the opening and then bolt through this sandwich to hold it all in place. Liberal tar covering it all underneath, plus sealing the suspect wheel well, should make this fully functional for years at little effort or expense. Do make sure there is no other water source that could damage your repaired floor.? A $3000 factory like new repair makes no economic sense. The repairs one can justify in a valuable Airstream should not be done in an older Aliner. None of us are going to use them for long enough or resell for high enough to ever recover that cost. This calls for functional goodenoughism. Even better if it doesn¡¯t require expensive specialist skills or can be a do it yourself repair. ? On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 9:34 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
I only saw the one photo of an area with what looked like a view of the driveway under. Doing a one piece patch is easier in some ways, and stronger,. But if the areas are not fairly contiguous then multiples will work. As to how to cut the pieces, I would do cardboard patterns until you have the exact shape(s)? you need. Some overlap larger than cutout areas obviously is needed, especially to bolt through. Then just use the cardboard to draw the shape onto both sheet metal ( hardware stores sell thin aluminum sheets about 2' x 2' or larger) and onto plywood ( exterior glue grade and nominal 1\2" thick). Metal snips or heavy duty scissors for aluminum and cheapest for plywood wood be aa saber saw (electric). Sabre saw won't do dead straight cuts but good enough. Drill for holes to bolt everything together. When done installing ( much easier with 2 people)'brush cost all exposed seams below with roofing tar. Easy peasu.?
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022, 1:35 PM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm still wondering if I can try it myself. You just answered the question as to how to attach it.? My biggest problem is cutting the pieces to fit.
The area by the wheel well is not spongey, but I'm assuming I still have to cut it out?? The hole itself is around a square foot, that was before I pulled up the vinyl and found the rest of the black under it.
The area under the rear bed is in the shape of an L which includes total to 20 inches across. It then extends toward the wheel well, including the hole. For another 28 X 8 inches . The wheel well us less than a square foot.
Having a much less expensive handyman type do a quick and dirty multilayer ¡°sandwich¡± repair of just the damaged (and fortunately easily accessible) floor area should last the life of the rest of the trailer. After cutting out the damage, which you say is only just over a square foot, he (or she) can place a piece of sheet metal and a piece of plywood above it under the opening, then a piece of plywood above the opening and then bolt through this sandwich to hold it all in place. Liberal tar covering it all underneath, plus sealing the suspect wheel well, should make this fully functional for years at little effort or expense. Do make sure there is no other water source that could damage your repaired floor.? A $3000 factory like new repair makes no economic sense. The repairs one can justify in a valuable Airstream should not be done in an older Aliner. None of us are going to use them for long enough or resell for high enough to ever recover that cost. This calls for functional goodenoughism. Even better if it doesn¡¯t require expensive specialist skills or can be a do it yourself repair. ? On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 9:34 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
I'm still wondering if I can try it myself. You just answered the question as to how to attach it.? My biggest problem is cutting the pieces to fit.
The area by the wheel well is not spongey, but I'm assuming I still have to cut it out?? The hole itself is around a square foot, that was before I pulled up the vinyl and found the rest of the black under it.
The area under the rear bed is in the shape of an L which includes total to 20 inches across. It then extends toward the wheel well, including the hole. For another 28 X 8 inches . The wheel well us less than a square foot.
Having a much less expensive handyman type do a quick and dirty multilayer ¡°sandwich¡± repair of just the damaged (and fortunately easily accessible) floor area should last the life of the rest of the trailer. After cutting out the damage, which you say is only just over a square foot, he (or she) can place a piece of sheet metal and a piece of plywood above it under the opening, then a piece of plywood above the opening and then bolt through this sandwich to hold it all in place. Liberal tar covering it all underneath, plus sealing the suspect wheel well, should make this fully functional for years at little effort or expense. Do make sure there is no other water source that could damage your repaired floor.? A $3000 factory like new repair makes no economic sense. The repairs one can justify in a valuable Airstream should not be done in an older Aliner. None of us are going to use them for long enough or resell for high enough to ever recover that cost. This calls for functional goodenoughism. Even better if it doesn¡¯t require expensive specialist skills or can be a do it yourself repair. ? On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 9:34 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Btw your photo makes the hit from underneath seem the original cause rather than any wheel well leakage. Even better is that this is not a walk-on area and a plywood patch above will not be in the way at all in a storage area. Plus getting to the underside in that corner is very easy, not like above the axle, for instance. You might reconsider doing this yourself. It should be very simple with basic tools-a circular or Sabre saw, some metal snips and a drill plus wrenches or pliers and screwdrivers, etc. If laying down at the outside corner is difficult (or getting back up) hire a local kid to help there while you work inside, or just find a local handyman for the whole thing to do it by your plan.?
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 9:34 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Having a much less expensive handyman type do a quick and dirty multilayer ¡°sandwich¡± repair of just the damaged (and fortunately easily accessible) floor area should last the life of the rest of the trailer. After cutting out the damage, which you say is only just over a square foot, he (or she) can place a piece of sheet metal and a piece of plywood above it under the opening, then a piece of plywood above the opening and then bolt through this sandwich to hold it all in place. Liberal tar covering it all underneath, plus sealing the suspect wheel well, should make this fully functional for years at little effort or expense. Do make sure there is no other water source that could damage your repaired floor.? A $3000 factory like new repair makes no economic sense. The repairs one can justify in a valuable Airstream should not be done in an older Aliner. None of us are going to use them for long enough or resell for high enough to ever recover that cost. This calls for functional goodenoughism. Even better if it doesn¡¯t require expensive specialist skills or can be a do it yourself repair. ?
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 9:34 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
A new floor used to be about $3000.? That was a pre pandemic price so it's probably more now..
To replace the floor they have to essentially disassemble the camper.? All the furniture and appliances are removed, and wiring and plumbing needs to be disconnected.? That's a lot of work.
There are places that specialize in rv floor replacement.? That's all they do.? Just look for "rv floor replacement" and see if there's a place near you.
But in your case I doubt they have to replace the whole floor.? If they can unbolt the trailer from the frame and lift the box, they may be able to do a proper job on just the back 25% of the camper, or whatever is rotted.? So maybe 1/4 the price.? But you'll have to take it somewhere for an estimate to find out.
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Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022, 12:33 PM Kathryn Baxter < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Sorry for the duplicates. Having difficulties all around.
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Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022, 12:33 PM Kathryn Baxter < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
[Edited Message Follows]
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
I tend to think it was old damage that was covered up. The damage comes right up the edge of the metal rim. Will pull it apart today. More pictures to come.
That¡¯s what I¡¯d do in this circumstance.? Two important additions for you to consider: ? 1.???? Where did the moisture come from that did all that damage?? Was it just the tree stump, or did the rot come from leakage from elsewhere, which would cause the same type of problems later on if left to continue. 2.??? I¡¯d slather the entire wood sandwich fix: inside, between and outside, especially around the fasteners, with roofing tar.? That will stop all future moisture intrusion. Dave ? ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡.. ? Quick and dirty fix: Cut two pieces of treated plywood (mostly waterproof), one to fit inside and one outside. Bolt the three layers together and give it several layers of paint both sides. This will get you through your summer trips. ?
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Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
That¡¯s what I¡¯d do in this circumstance.? Two important additions for you to consider: ? 1.???? Where did the moisture come from that did all that damage?? Was it just the tree stump, or did the rot come from leakage from elsewhere, which would cause the same type of problems later on if left to continue. 2.??? I¡¯d slather the entire wood sandwich fix: inside, between and outside, especially around the fasteners, with roofing tar.? That will stop all future moisture intrusion. Dave ? ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡.. ? Quick and dirty fix: Cut two pieces of treated plywood (mostly waterproof), one to fit inside and one outside. Bolt the three layers together and give it several layers of paint both sides. This will get you through your summer trips. ?
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Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Hello
Kathryn:
Quick
and dirty fix: Cut two pieces of treated plywood (mostly
waterproof), one to fit inside and one outside. Bolt the three
layers together and give it several layers of paint both
sides. This will get you through your summer trips.
Carl.
On 7/23/2022 8:34 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Don't think it makes a difference,? but the hole
from the outside had help. I went over a tree stump. ?? ?Then
when I was cleaning out I noticed a bulge up in the vinyl floor
and the rest is history.?
Thanks Carl. Not willing to throw in the towel
yet. Will look at your pictures. Mind you I'm anyrse trying
to retire, don't want to spend money on this now. I'm
thinking if I try to cut away all the damaged and maybe
cover with a piece of tin from the bottom,? and maybe top?
To make do for now? It would take probably a 10 x 14 inch
piece to cover the area. I have 2 more trips planned for the
summer. Want to try to get through them.
There is a shop near me that does repair
RVs, they've do e so.e pop ups too. I might ask them a
just to get an idea.?
I'm in Orange County, NY. About 70 miles
north of NYC.
2014 Ranger 12.
This was sold to me as a "demo" in 2019 and
I'm realizing it was really well used by the owner.
Hello Kathryn:
That really looks nasty, it is on the right
side, behind the wheel well?
Have you looked at the photos from my floor
repair? Here is a link:
I know the options are not great.
1) You could say you are done with this
camper and sell it as a fixer-upper.
2) Find a shop willing to fix it, big bucks
I'm sure. Two days at shop rate would be a bunch.
3) Fix it your self, perhaps with a willing
friend to help. This is what I have done, mostly
with dumpster supplies. It looks bad, but first
remove all the rot and find out what you have left
to work with.
I'm open to help, I only ask you stay by my
side to help. Any one closer than South Carolina
willing to help Kathryn? I'm willing to help
remotely from photos, etc.
Best wishes, Carl.
On 7/23/2022 7:21 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
So, I'm cleaning out after a trip and?
noted that the floor felt spongey under the rear
bed. Found this. Nothing wet that I can see but it
must have been at one time because it all just
flaked out.
Solid board all around it. I'm
guessing the whole floor has to be replaced, or
can it be patched ? Needless to say will NOT
attempted this myself.
|
Hi all:
Some years back, an owner posted photos and instructions on how he used 4 inch PVC, shaped in an extended "U" to catch his grey water for later dumping at a dump site. Hopefully those files are still in this sites archives.
Hubert Paulson
Nebraska
2014 Grand Caravan SX
2004 Sportliner - "Escape Pod"
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7/7/2022 4:22 PM, dan smartt via groups.io wrote: Second the info on dumping grey water, be careful it's illegal in most places
I have an adapter to convert the grey water drain to 3/4" (garden hose) and have a short piece of hose draining into a 5 gallon bucket, when needed. At campsites with hookups I run a garden hose (dedicated waste hose) into the sewer receptacle.
But mounting a dedicated grey water tank under the sink sounds like a good plan, again a 5 gallon bucket with lid would fit good under there.
Happy camping.
Dan S
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Don't think it makes a difference,? but the hole from the outside had help. I went over a tree stump. ?? ?Then when I was cleaning out I noticed a bulge up in the vinyl floor and the rest is history.?
Thanks Carl. Not willing to throw in the towel yet. Will look at your pictures. Mind you I'm anyrse trying to retire, don't want to spend money on this now. I'm thinking if I try to cut away all the damaged and maybe cover with a piece of tin from the bottom,? and maybe top? To make do for now? It would take probably a 10 x 14 inch piece to cover the area. I have 2 more trips planned for the summer. Want to try to get through them.
There is a shop near me that does repair RVs, they've do e so.e pop ups too. I might ask them a just to get an idea.?
I'm in Orange County, NY. About 70 miles north of NYC.
2014 Ranger 12. This was sold to me as a "demo" in 2019 and I'm realizing it was really well used by the owner.
Hello
Kathryn:
That
really looks nasty, it is on the right side, behind the wheel
well?
Have
you looked at the photos from my floor repair? Here is a link:
I know
the options are not great.
1) You
could say you are done with this camper and sell it as a
fixer-upper.
2) Find
a shop willing to fix it, big bucks I'm sure. Two days at shop
rate would be a bunch.
3) Fix
it your self, perhaps with a willing friend to help. This is
what I have done, mostly with dumpster supplies. It looks bad,
but first remove all the rot and find out what you have left
to work with.
I'm
open to help, I only ask you stay by my side to help. Any one
closer than South Carolina willing to help Kathryn? I'm
willing to help remotely from photos, etc.
Best
wishes, Carl.
On 7/23/2022 7:21 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
So, I'm cleaning out after a trip and? noted that
the floor felt spongey under the rear bed. Found this. Nothing
wet that I can see but it must have been at one time because it
all just flaked out.
Solid board all around it. I'm guessing the
whole floor has to be replaced, or can it be patched ?
Needless to say will NOT attempted this myself.
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Thanks Carl. Not willing to throw in the towel yet. Will look at your pictures. Mind you I'm anyrse trying to retire, don't want to spend money on this now. I'm thinking if I try to cut away all the damaged and maybe cover with a piece of tin from the bottom,? and maybe top? To make do for now? It would take probably a 10 x 14 inch piece to cover the area. I have 2 more trips planned for the summer. Want to try to get through them.
There is a shop near me that does repair RVs, they've do e so.e pop ups too. I might ask them a just to get an idea.?
I'm in Orange County, NY. About 70 miles north of NYC.
2014 Ranger 12. This was sold to me as a "demo" in 2019 and I'm realizing it was really well used by the owner.
Hello
Kathryn:
That
really looks nasty, it is on the right side, behind the wheel
well?
Have
you looked at the photos from my floor repair? Here is a link:
I know
the options are not great.
1) You
could say you are done with this camper and sell it as a
fixer-upper.
2) Find
a shop willing to fix it, big bucks I'm sure. Two days at shop
rate would be a bunch.
3) Fix
it your self, perhaps with a willing friend to help. This is
what I have done, mostly with dumpster supplies. It looks bad,
but first remove all the rot and find out what you have left
to work with.
I'm
open to help, I only ask you stay by my side to help. Any one
closer than South Carolina willing to help Kathryn? I'm
willing to help remotely from photos, etc.
Best
wishes, Carl.
On 7/23/2022 7:21 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
So, I'm cleaning out after a trip and? noted that
the floor felt spongey under the rear bed. Found this. Nothing
wet that I can see but it must have been at one time because it
all just flaked out.
Solid board all around it. I'm guessing the
whole floor has to be replaced, or can it be patched ?
Needless to say will NOT attempted this myself.
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Hello
Kathryn:
That
really looks nasty, it is on the right side, behind the wheel
well?
Have
you looked at the photos from my floor repair? Here is a link:
I know
the options are not great.
1) You
could say you are done with this camper and sell it as a
fixer-upper.
2) Find
a shop willing to fix it, big bucks I'm sure. Two days at shop
rate would be a bunch.
3) Fix
it your self, perhaps with a willing friend to help. This is
what I have done, mostly with dumpster supplies. It looks bad,
but first remove all the rot and find out what you have left
to work with.
I'm
open to help, I only ask you stay by my side to help. Any one
closer than South Carolina willing to help Kathryn? I'm
willing to help remotely from photos, etc.
Best
wishes, Carl.
On 7/23/2022 7:21 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
So, I'm cleaning out after a trip and? noted that
the floor felt spongey under the rear bed. Found this. Nothing
wet that I can see but it must have been at one time because it
all just flaked out.
Solid board all around it. I'm guessing the
whole floor has to be replaced, or can it be patched ?
Needless to say will NOT attempted this myself.
|
Rick Sutliff
Carl