Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
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I only saw the one photo of an area with what looked like a view of the driveway under. Doing a one piece patch is easier in some ways, and stronger,. But if the areas are not fairly contiguous then multiples will work. As to how to cut the pieces, I would do cardboard patterns until you have the exact shape(s)? you need. Some overlap larger than cutout areas obviously is needed, especially to bolt through. Then just use the cardboard to draw the shape onto both sheet metal ( hardware stores sell thin aluminum sheets about 2' x 2' or larger) and onto plywood ( exterior glue grade and nominal 1\2" thick). Metal snips or heavy duty scissors for aluminum and cheapest for plywood wood be aa saber saw (electric). Sabre saw won't do dead straight cuts but good enough. Drill for holes to bolt everything together. When done installing ( much easier with 2 people)'brush cost all exposed seams below with roofing tar. Easy peasu.?
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022, 1:35 PM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm still wondering if I can try it myself. You just answered the question as to how to attach it.? My biggest problem is cutting the pieces to fit.
The area by the wheel well is not spongey, but I'm assuming I still have to cut it out?? The hole itself is around a square foot, that was before I pulled up the vinyl and found the rest of the black under it.
The area under the rear bed is in the shape of an L which includes total to 20 inches across. It then extends toward the wheel well, including the hole. For another 28 X 8 inches . The wheel well us less than a square foot.
Having a much less expensive handyman type do a quick and dirty multilayer ¡°sandwich¡± repair of just the damaged (and fortunately easily accessible) floor area should last the life of the rest of the trailer. After cutting out the damage, which you say is only just over a square foot, he (or she) can place a piece of sheet metal and a piece of plywood above it under the opening, then a piece of plywood above the opening and then bolt through this sandwich to hold it all in place. Liberal tar covering it all underneath, plus sealing the suspect wheel well, should make this fully functional for years at little effort or expense. Do make sure there is no other water source that could damage your repaired floor.? A $3000 factory like new repair makes no economic sense. The repairs one can justify in a valuable Airstream should not be done in an older Aliner. None of us are going to use them for long enough or resell for high enough to ever recover that cost. This calls for functional goodenoughism. Even better if it doesn¡¯t require expensive specialist skills or can be a do it yourself repair. ? On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 9:34 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Pulled apart floor an vinyl and completely emptied camper so I could see everything, (except under fridge).? This is what I found,? everything else seems solid. AC has not been used since I got the trailer. My money is on the wheel well. I think this is beyond me ?I don't have the strength or the tools.? Just a ball park, what you think it would cost to have a new floor?( I won't hold you to it)? My husband cannot to the work. This would all be on me.
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Just studying these photos carefully, it looks like it might have been water coming in through the door or maybe A/C unit leaking inside and pooling under the bed along the edge of the wall and floor.? There is a piece of wood molding along the wall, is that all rotten and water soaked too?
I would make sure all the wood is fully dry before coating it with anything that would seal water into the wood or your just asking for the rest of the floor to dissolve away.? You can buy "Wood Hardener" off Amazon?? ?? I've used it on my doorway rot and it does tend to firm up the wood and soak in replacing the water, but its no replacement for solid structure in the area.? I "over coated" mine with a 1/8inch piece of Aluminum. Seems to be working great after 8 months.
Rick
GoingNoWhereFast
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