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I finally found a sealant that I like for gluing on skylights: Silpruf SCS2000. Here's the list of reasons I like it, and it's a long one: It has a relatively high tensile strength of 341 psi It sticks really well to polycarbonate It doesn't require mechanical fasteners it doesn't require a primer It lasts longer than polyurethane It doesn't get as dirty looking as polyurethane It can be cleaned better than polyurethane It's compatible with polycarbonate, so it won't make polycarbonate crack or crumble It has a long working time It tools really well, so it looks really nice when you're done It has excellent UV resistance, and doesn't need to be covered to protect it from sunlight It will stick to dried SCS2000 to allow spot repairs, or fixing voids or mistakes on initial lay down. It can be dissolved with Digesil when it needs to be removed It can be scraped off relatively easily since it's a soft rubber The skylight can be removed without too much hassle when it eventually needs to be replaced But for any sealant, test it with your polycarbonate, because bond strength differs with different grades of polycarbonate. I tested with an eztopsworldwide skylight. The only remaining question I have is why is nobody else using it? My tests show it's far superior to anything else I've seen.

The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. * /2021 Aliner Owner's Manual.pdf ( /g/A-frameCamperForum/files/2021 Aliner Owner's Manual.pdf ) *By:* Brian Hovander <brianhovander@...> *Description:* Here is the latest version Aliner Owner's manual that was released in August 2021 in electronic form. You might want to download this to your computer for future easy access and reference.

Has anybody removed the large window on the A wall of a Chalet? I have a leak in mine, and am wondering how hard it is to get that thing off. It has some pretty sturdy clear glue around the perimeter that I haven't dealt with previously.

Hi All, I was thinking about some spring projects for my 2021 Aliner classic, and one is to replace the stretched and deteriorating factory bungee cords. The cords seem to come in different strengths and diameters as well as lengths. So, I was wondering what other people have used as replacements and what has worked best. Specifically, I would be interested in the best diameter and strength as well as what length I might need for my camper.

https://alinerexpeditionmods.blogspot.com/

We've been having some Santa Ana winds out here in California, which are the same ones responsible for all the fires. I had a fly fishing trip over the weekend, and the winds at my destination weren't predicted to be too bad, so I went. Early on Saturday morning, the winds hit me, and were much higher than predicted. Gusts must have been around 50. But the nasty part was the leading edge of the gusts hit like a fist and really shook the Aframe. I couldn't see anything outside because it was pitch black out. But I could tell that the winds were hitting the door side, because that was getting pelted by sand and pebbles. I had the stabilizer jacks down pretty firm, but the gusts hit so hard that I thought the stuff on the A wall shelves was going to fly off. The wheel chocks I have are those light weight hollow yellow plastic ones, and they blew away from the wheel on the windward side of the trailer. Luckily the trailer still didn't move though. I guess I've got to get some of those heavy solid rubber ones. The winds were predicted to die down at 8 am, then resume at 10 am. But the prediction for the drive home, if I went the next day, were winds gusting up to 65 mph. The winds did die as predicted at 8 am. So I folded up the trailer and got the heck out of there. The trailer held up fine. I have the wind straps to hold the roof halves together. I also have 2 poles mounted crosswise between the A walls, to keep them from collapsing inwards. But when the wind is howling, the trailer is shaking, and all the hinges and joints in the roof system are creaking and squeeking, there's no way I could fall asleep. It was quite the adventure. Steve

I have a 2015 Classic with hard dormers and the front dormer wall connection to the roof section does not slide very well anymore. It seems like something in the slide connector is dragging on the roof channel, there is a black streak in the center of the channel. Is there a mounting bolt that could have loosened up on the wall section and now hitting the roof channel? How do I get access to this area? JoeS

I have a 2017 Aliner Classic with two soft dormers. The camper stays set up on the driveway between trips. However, the dormer canvas is prone to mildew in Florida's humidity. Keeping it clean has been an ongoing challenge. The canvas is attached to the dormer structure with screws, so it looks like switching to hard dormers shouldn't be too difficult (assuming I can locate some). Any thoughts?

So I have an Aliner Ranger 12 (2021) with the LoadStar 13-inch tires and I want to get new tires for 2025. Everyone tells me to go with the Goodyear Endurance; but they don't come in 13-inches. What to do? Will 14-inch tires fit on my Ranger 12 and existing rims? If not, what is the best brand for 13-inch new tires? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I just purchased a Subaru Outback ONYX turbo for the purpose of towing an A-Liner Classic (dry weight of 1700 pds). Any suggestions on a good electric brake controller for this set up? Also, the Subaru service department suggested getting a wireless/bluetooth controller, but I have my doubts about that over a hardwired connection; what if your phone dies, is lost, bluetooth fails, etc. ? Thanks for any advice.

Hello! I think I sent this question already, but I didn't get a reply, see it in the forum, or see it in my "sent" folder so I'll try again. I did see a message that my account wasn't confirmed, but I think I've rectified that. - Debbie Edwards, Williamsburg, Va Question: I have a 2022 Ranger 12 but since I purchased it just last March, this is the first winter I've owned it. It's garaged in the tidewater area of Virginia so it's protected from rain and snow, but still subjected to some cold temperatures. We get many nights and some days below freezing December through early March. My question is: If I have drained all the water from my camper, do I still need to blow out the residual moisture and add antifreeze, or is draining enough? I can understand how ice expanding in lines and tanks full of water could rupture them, but would a small amount of residual water damage pipes and lines? I ask because I'm not handy, and my dealer is an hour's drive away and charges $200 for the service. Better safe than sorry, or probably not necessary? Thanks!

Have read all the user's manual. What I don't have is pictures, either diagrams or photos. Youtube hasn't helped, I apparently don't know the right words to search. Read the very long chain on winterizing here, but if there was useful information there, it was lost among people saying how they don't use all the on-board conveniences. Which is great for them, but doesn't help me. The instructions in the manual are inadequate and too general to help me. Basically, it says "You should winterize" but not step by step how. Mainly seems to be saying, clean it and dry it off first. My trailer will be stored in a garage. I know I need to turn off the propane at the tanks, but do not know how to do this. Dual tanks on hitch. (Obvs, will need to know how to safely reverse the process.) Is there some purge/bleed process to remove any residual propane in the furnace and water heater and stove lines? If so, what and where are the valves? Do I just open up all the burners on the stove and leave the trailer open to the air for a few hours? Instructions for winterizing the water heater (Suburban SW6D) say to turn off both electricity and propane, then drain and check/replace the anode rod. I was able to disconnect the battery, of course, and I handled the last bit ... but is there a specific switch/valve for propane at the water heater itself, or does that just mean the valve at the top of the tanks on the hitch? Is that valve the correct valve? (I think it's dual-feed, but can't find pictures to show the difference.) Opened the faucet and water in ports and drained the fresh water tank and grey water pipes. Does not appear to have a J or P trap on the sink drain. The pex tubing appears empty, though not perfectly dry yet. If the trailer will be garaged, does the battery need to be removed from the hitch for storage or just disconnected? Would it be better to leave it connected so I can hook up house power occasionally? Does anyone have a detailed "here are all the things you need to do, where to find them, what they look like, what order to do them, and safety precautions" maintenance guide for this trailer? The owner's manual is disappointingly short on detail. Thanks!

I always level our Aliner before popping it up. I know the refrigerator needs to be level to work properly but does the camper itself need to be level for the walls and roofs to interlock properly? JoeS

Hi All, I probably have not used the waterpump since flushing out the ant freeze in the spring. Now i am trying to winerize and the pump is running but nothing is coming through. Of course the antifreeze ia already in the tank. Any thoughts? Kathy

Greetings, I'm hoping someone can offer some sage advice. I have a 2014 Subaru 2.5L Subaru Outback (low mileage) and am considering buying the Aliner Ranger 12 to tow. It's dry weight is advertised as 1700 pds. Does anyone know if this can be towed safely with this engine or is it too heavy a load? The Outback has a max towing (GTW) rating of 2700 pds, however, I know that would quickly kill this car once I got off a flat highway. I plan to drive thru the Sierras, Cascades and perhaps the Rockies on some long road trips. Thanks for any advice. -bruce