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I can not work without many "Digital Electronic Vernier Caliper" in my workshop. However, they are always hiding them self when I am doing my job. Lately I have discovered that they are missing the numbers on the display. Both old and new ones. Suddenly the numbers are being negative or shutting down. I am blaming a Comunicacion tower not far from the building. Someone's that has a good advice for me? Best from Johannes

Some time back I started working on a DRO scheme for my lathe cross slide. There's not a lot of room on top so many of the approaches I saw had one disadvantage or another. As a result I came up with a scheme to put the DRO underneath the lathe and used a "C" shaped piece to transfer the cross slide motion beneath the lathe. I had an iGaging DRO for the purpose because I bought two when I was working on my Z axis DRO setup, so I already had what I needed. Or so I thought. Unfortunately, the iGaging design uses a sliding contact with a fairly strong spring, which required a fair amount of force to overcome. DRO mounting schemes that put the mounting system inline with the sensor aren't affected by this, but my C shaped piece would deflect under the force enough to cause about a .005" error. I tried several ways to stiffen up the system but that was about the best I could manage. So I decided to modify my DRO to reduce the amount of force needed to move the rule through the sensor. This involved making a replacement base out of aluminum and replacing the sliding contact with bearings. I used aluminum because the rule MUST be connected to the sensor's internal ground in order to work correctly. My first iteration used flanged bearings because the rule needed to be constrained on two of its axes, but the flanges rubbed on the rule too much, which caused erratic variations in the force needed to slide the rule back and forth. So I replaced the flanged bearings with conventional ones -- but then had to add bearings to the bottom and top assemblies to constrain the rule on its vertical axis. At this point I debated on whether it really was worthwhile to continue my attempt to use an iGaging DRO, but since I already had a fair amount of time invested in this thing I forged on. This is known as the "sunk cost" syndrome, and I admit to falling victim to it. So after buying more bearings and spending more machining time on the base (and 3D printing a cover, also with bearing pockets) I got this: The top photo shows the scale, sensor, aluminum base and printed cover. The side bearings are 3x10mm and the top/bottom are 3x6. And here are photos of the mounting scheme: I used a "T" extrusion in an attempt to stiffen up my "C" assembly but it didn't improve things much. The 3D printed stuff was done with an older Ender 3 I bought from a friend. This is the first project I've used it for. The pieces were designed using openSCAD. Not shown: all the pieces that had something wrong with them :). The scale passes through a slot I milled in the vertical piece. At first the (re) assembled DRO had a terrible EMI problem. I added some shielding on the back of the sensor board, which helped a teensy bit. It turns out that the main problem was the spacing between the bottom of the sensor board and scale. I had used some 3mm brass washers to make sure the board didn't rub against the scale, but that turned out to be a mistake. I removed them and suddenly the noise problem disappeared. The board still isn't rubbing so that was a solution without a problem. I was sure that the DRO would misbehave once it was installed and the motor controller was turned on, but so far so good. I checked the DRO vs the dial and they are very close. That was a big unknown, since I wasn't sure if the spacing between the scale and sensor board would affect the readings. Lipstick on a pig? Well, probably. If I had known what I was going to encounter along the way I think I would have just bit the bullet and found myself a DRO that would work right out of the box....

My 7x12 Northern Mini-lathe has suddenly quit working. Previously, when I flipped the switch from forward to reverse I heard relays click. Now nothing. The fuse tested good. I did not see any evidence of burnt parts. I know something about electronics, but it is hard to proceed without a wiring diagram. I do not have an oscilloscope, but I have a VOM. I would hate to replace the control board, only to find that the problem is elsewhere...... I looked online, but did not find anything relevant. Richard

I've got a 70's era radial arm saw with a dust collection port that doesn't match current vacuum fittings. I bored one end of a 1 1/4" PVC coupling to fit the saw outlet and the other end to fit the vacuum hose. It works, but for long term a 90-degree fitting would be much better. I have a 1 1/4" PVC 90 that I would like to bore out to do the job. However, having trouble figuring out how to mount on my 3" 4-jaw chuck (see photo). I need to mount so the opening(s) is centered on the spindle so the 4-jaw adjustment capability would be great if I could get it mounted. Any ideas on how to mount?

When I purchased my mini lathe (about 5yrs ago) it was advertised as having a 16tpi lead screw. I recently decided to check and noticed that is not the case. It is actually the 1.5mm pitch leadscrew instead. I am considering purchasing a 16tpi replacement along with new half nuts. I found the items on Arc Eurotrade. However, the shipping to the US is a bit expensive. I haven't been able to find these items on Amazon. eBay and AliExpress have the metric version but I cannot find imperial versions. Little Machine Shop has lead screws for Sieg 7x14 lathes, but I believe there are some differences that may cause problems. Has anyone else made this swap or have suggestions as to where I should look for these items. Thanks in advance.

A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe. "Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED. This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe. The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility. Or none at all. You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal and put holes in it to hold centers and such. The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs. Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZa2m90p0dA&t=504s This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?" Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

I have the same problem, and at times (on motorcycle parts, which are bigger), I've brazed with the work sitting on the burner of the gas stove I have in my basement, with that heat coming up from underneath, TWO propane or MAPP torches up top, and firebricks everywhere to keep the heat in. That gave borderline enough heat, but if I'd had a third arm I'd have used another torch. I have a variable power induction welder and using two carbon electrodes the way Jacques does is also something I've contemplated. I've also seen those PM articles, but I think the electrode holders are the only thing I'd need to make, right? Could a welder provide the juice? Mike Taglieri On Fri, Sep 20, 2024, 4:38 PM Ralph Hulslander via groups.io <rhulslander@...> wrote: I can "solder" in my sleep but have had problems with brazing. My first limitation is I only have a Turbo torch not oxy acetylene. On Fri, Sep 20, 2024 at 3:42 PM Bruce J via groups.io <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote: And honestly the only difference between ‘brazing’ and ’soldering’…is the temperature. Both are the same process: joining metal by melting a metal of a lower melting point to ‘wet’ the metal to be joined with the aid of a flux. Cleanliness, flux, heat. On Sep 20, 2024, at 10:01 AM, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote: Actually, that old plumber's "3 basic rules" apply just as well to brazing as to soft soldering. You're just using different flux and (a lot) more heat. Mike Taglieri On Fri, Sep 20, 2024, 12:46 PM Ralph Hulslander via groups.io <rhulslander@...> wrote: You do not want to "solder" a steam boiler! You need to braze it. I do have to admit I have soldered a steam coil which was not directly fired. Ralph On Thu, Sep 19, 2024 at 9:07 PM Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> wrote: The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules: 1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal. 2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating. 3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common. The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface. Roy -- Bruce Johnson The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.

I made a 5in brass cannon from 1.25" C360 brass on a big Southbend lathe at my local Markerspace and plan to try it again on my LMS 7x16. What tooling and speeds are recommended?

Hi Roy I did what you told me. After a lot of pictures and Trigonometry calculation, I decided to make the fine cut 30 deg. in my mill. A set up in a homemade jig and I did the fine cut. The result was very good. Then I discovered the pencils use different type of wood. Johannes Lavoll Mexico From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 5:28 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel Yup! By sharpening the B face, you'll restore the chip clearance that's been abraded away from normal wear. It'd probably be worth the nuisance of making some type of guide to keep the same relief angle on all the teeth. Roy