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My 7x12 Northern Mini-lathe has suddenly quit working. Previously, when I flipped the switch from forward to reverse I heard relays click. Now nothing. The fuse tested good. I did not see any evidence of burnt parts. I know something about electronics, but it is hard to proceed without a wiring diagram. I do not have an oscilloscope, but I have a VOM. I would hate to replace the control board, only to find that the problem is elsewhere...... I looked online, but did not find anything relevant. Richard

I've got a 70's era radial arm saw with a dust collection port that doesn't match current vacuum fittings. I bored one end of a 1 1/4" PVC coupling to fit the saw outlet and the other end to fit the vacuum hose. It works, but for long term a 90-degree fitting would be much better. I have a 1 1/4" PVC 90 that I would like to bore out to do the job. However, having trouble figuring out how to mount on my 3" 4-jaw chuck (see photo). I need to mount so the opening(s) is centered on the spindle so the 4-jaw adjustment capability would be great if I could get it mounted. Any ideas on how to mount?

When I purchased my mini lathe (about 5yrs ago) it was advertised as having a 16tpi lead screw. I recently decided to check and noticed that is not the case. It is actually the 1.5mm pitch leadscrew instead. I am considering purchasing a 16tpi replacement along with new half nuts. I found the items on Arc Eurotrade. However, the shipping to the US is a bit expensive. I haven't been able to find these items on Amazon. eBay and AliExpress have the metric version but I cannot find imperial versions. Little Machine Shop has lead screws for Sieg 7x14 lathes, but I believe there are some differences that may cause problems. Has anyone else made this swap or have suggestions as to where I should look for these items. Thanks in advance.

A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe. "Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED. This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe. The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility. Or none at all. You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal and put holes in it to hold centers and such. The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs. Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZa2m90p0dA&t=504s This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?" Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

I have the same problem, and at times (on motorcycle parts, which are bigger), I've brazed with the work sitting on the burner of the gas stove I have in my basement, with that heat coming up from underneath, TWO propane or MAPP torches up top, and firebricks everywhere to keep the heat in. That gave borderline enough heat, but if I'd had a third arm I'd have used another torch. I have a variable power induction welder and using two carbon electrodes the way Jacques does is also something I've contemplated. I've also seen those PM articles, but I think the electrode holders are the only thing I'd need to make, right? Could a welder provide the juice? Mike Taglieri On Fri, Sep 20, 2024, 4:38 PM Ralph Hulslander via groups.io <rhulslander@...> wrote: I can "solder" in my sleep but have had problems with brazing. My first limitation is I only have a Turbo torch not oxy acetylene. On Fri, Sep 20, 2024 at 3:42 PM Bruce J via groups.io <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote: And honestly the only difference between ‘brazing’ and ’soldering’…is the temperature. Both are the same process: joining metal by melting a metal of a lower melting point to ‘wet’ the metal to be joined with the aid of a flux. Cleanliness, flux, heat. On Sep 20, 2024, at 10:01 AM, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote: Actually, that old plumber's "3 basic rules" apply just as well to brazing as to soft soldering. You're just using different flux and (a lot) more heat. Mike Taglieri On Fri, Sep 20, 2024, 12:46 PM Ralph Hulslander via groups.io <rhulslander@...> wrote: You do not want to "solder" a steam boiler! You need to braze it. I do have to admit I have soldered a steam coil which was not directly fired. Ralph On Thu, Sep 19, 2024 at 9:07 PM Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> wrote: The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules: 1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal. 2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating. 3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common. The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface. Roy -- Bruce Johnson The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.

I made a 5in brass cannon from 1.25" C360 brass on a big Southbend lathe at my local Markerspace and plan to try it again on my LMS 7x16. What tooling and speeds are recommended?

Hi Roy I did what you told me. After a lot of pictures and Trigonometry calculation, I decided to make the fine cut 30 deg. in my mill. A set up in a homemade jig and I did the fine cut. The result was very good. Then I discovered the pencils use different type of wood. Johannes Lavoll Mexico From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 5:28 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel Yup! By sharpening the B face, you'll restore the chip clearance that's been abraded away from normal wear. It'd probably be worth the nuisance of making some type of guide to keep the same relief angle on all the teeth. Roy

This video is an excellent description of the technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMA6_sE1VaQ Regards, Mark markrages@gmail

I have the cross slide from a mini lathe mounted on my small woodturning Rose Engine lathe. As this cross-slide is metric and the current graduations on the compound hand-wheel are only 0-39 rather than 0-10 with intermediate graduations I decided to look for an alternative that allowed the resetting of the graduated dial. I found this one on Temu At the time I bought it the cost was ?17 but I see that it has since increased slightly in price. As the 8mm hole in the centre of the new hand-wheel had a keyway slot in it and it wasn't deep enough to used the mounting threads on the lead screw I mounted it on my metal lathe and bored and reamed the centre hole to 14mm. I then turned a T shaped steel spacer with a M10 thread in the centre that I press fitted into the 14mm hole and used Loctite to keep it in place. I then used a 1mm thick brass washer to separate the hand-wheel from the mounting and used the conventional second nut to reduce the backlash in the compound and to lock the hand-wheel in place. The graduated dial is slightly larger than fixed base but for my use I don't think that this will be an issue. The cross-slide has a similar problem with the graduations and I happened to have a larger ring with suitable graduations on it but the centre bore was too large to fit. As a result I left the existing small graduated ring in place and 3D printed a spacer that grips the small ring tightly and has just enough friction to retain the outer ring but to allow it to be moved if necessary. -- Colin Spencer

After researching of motors are 221°F [105°C] after that the life is shortened. The outside temperature is about 60°F to 70°F [15 to 20°C ] less the coil temperature. So if outside is could be wend the coil is 221°F [105°C] the outside is between 151°F and 161°F [85 an 90°C]. On my gauge I set the red mark at 80°C and 105°C. If I see gets never red it time to let motor cool down and gives little to finish the cut. The Capillary is attached by HVAC Aluminum tape , max temperature is 145 °C at this point the motor is toast Dave

Brushless mini lathe motor torque chart compare to DC motors. I know the DC motors have very high torque as the motor slow down. The standard ac squire cage motor is about same the rpm's drop off. But do not know what torque is on the Brushless electronic DC motors?. FYI Simple to compare the DC vs AC is. The old time heavy duty drill motors when star to slow you feel torque. AC motor like fan you stop it a small stick. Dave

My "Jupiter 1" pencil sharpener has a 45 mm wheel for cutting. However, the cuttings are not very good now after many years in use. So, I am asking you for advice on how to scarp the edge. The scarp edge of the knife is being a little bit round. Look at the pictures, Shall I scarp side A or B ? Ps. Thanks to all for advice on how to make the 2 missing screws. Johannes Mexico