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I seem to remember some years ago someone had increased the through-bore of the standard 3" 3-jaw chuck, but I can't remember where and didn't find anything in my search. It may have been toolsandmods.com, but that site appears to be defunct now. I was using the lathe last night and the 5/8" bar stock I was using had trouble sliding through the chuck bore. It was really tight. How big can you go without causing issues? I know the screws holding the back cover on are already close to the bore. Mike

Just plexiglass rod for making game pieces from. First time turning plexiglass All my life has been metals. Any comments Dave

I've been working on reducing the vibration in my Chinese 8" bench grinder. Adding collars for the inner wheel flanges to rest against and making new flanges (ala Harold Hall's "Tool and Cutter Sharpening"). I was cursing having only the 1" rest, when I re-found the steady rest mod doc in the Files section. Did not have a need for this mod until now. Putting the rest in the mini-mill vise, with the middle slot edge aligned with the left side of the vise, it was just some up and back on the Y to give me a nice opening for my grinder shaft to fit through. I wound up with a generous 0.885", and I could have gone even further, since I left about 1/32" on each side. Maybe one day I'll build a larger rest with a nice flip top like many of the Myford guys have. Mike

What is the best AC protector/stabilator for a 7x14 lathe? There are many types: one for your computer, one for your fridge. Full AC-DC-AC is maybe a littlebit luxury? /johannes

Surge protectors aren't all equal . They said on the news just now the fire was started at one of the surge protectors for a 3D printer I believe . https://abc7news.com/fire-damages-san-francisco-nonprofit-humanmade-supporting-up-and-coming-inventors-and-entrepreneurs/14767783/

Did any see northern light running the there mini lathe. Dave

Maybe this is wrong group, however, a lot of clever members: I have to make a lot of 1 mm holes in 2 mm steel rods. I have made a guide, and as you see, a lot of testing guide hole to compensate for different drilling twisting forces. My questions: 1) what is the best start method to make a start mark? 2) when I am drilling: a) constant soft pressure? b) pumping up/down to release spoon (My steel are only making dust) Johannes Lavoll.

Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets). I am the only one doing this?

Has anyone had one of the LMS 2" dial indicators apart? I got a used one for just a few dollars and it needs a little fixing. The needle is bent, but I can't get the front bezel off. Mike

Hi All, After putting it off for way too long; I'm finally getting around to upgrading my HF 93212 mini lathe with the LMS 5000 16" bed extension. I have the lathe torn down. Decided to play it safe and put the parts/screws in ziploc bags and label the bags with a sharpie so I won't forget what they are. Also checked off each step in the instructions as I disassembled the lathe. Any tips/advice before I start Reassembly? I did slip the carriage on out of curiosity to see how it fit. The front is fairly snug, but there's a noticeable amount of play in the rear. Stan