开云体育

WD, a little late in the response, but I'll add my 2 cents worth,
maybe it's already been covered. I had some trouble initially with
parting, but here's what I did. I double checked the height, making
sure of the centerline, then I made sure that the parting tool was as
sharp as possible. I have found that right out of the package, many
of the cut off blades need sharpening. Check for a good relief angle
on the tip, approx 7 to 11 deg angle. Be careful not to overheat the
tip, as it will anneal and soften the end of it. Use the grind -
dip - grind - dip method,and you should be OK. You mention that
you're using the HF QCTP. I have heard of others having parting
problems with the HF cutoff tools. Maybe you can try some other
blades. You may want to make sure also, that you're parting off as
close to the chuck as possible, and that the saddle is locked to the
ways tightly. This will insure that all of the forces are applied to
the parting tool. You may wish to play with the centerline issue
slightly, with some scrap to get the feel of it. Especially on the
softer material (i.e. Aluminium, brass) you shouldn't be having this
problem...

Ed

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wdannhardt <wdannhardt@y...>"
<wdannhardt@y...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 7 x 12 mini lathe, and so far it has been
wonderful, I am very satisfied. I purchased a quick change tool
holder from HF, and with a modification to the compound, now have
easy tool height adjustment. The only tool I have problems with is
the cut off tool.

I am using a .062" x .5" HSS tool, cutting brass and Aluminum. I
always seem to get terrible chatter. I made sure the saddle, cross
slide and compound are very tight to the ways, but it still

happens.

Does anyone have any suggestions to make this better? I've not

heard

of anyone else complain about this, so I think it must be something

I

am doing.

Thanks for your help,
WD

6061 aluminum, 2.25" OD.

I've hand-sanded a few sample pieces which will be sent
off for anodizing tomorrow. But my research tells me
that anodizing actually shows up flaws more than hides
it, so I'm guessing that I'll have to really sand them
to almost a polish.

Cheers,
-Neil.

Neil,
What are the dimensions of the parts you're trying to sand?
Are they wood?
B Flint

There was some talk of adjustable backplates a while back.
Here's an update.

I just completed an adjustable backplate for the 5" 3-jaw chuck sold
by J&L Industrial. I posted a few pictures in the PHOTOS section in
a folder called Adjustable Backplate. It was a fun project and I'm
real happy with the results.

The test sheet that came with the chuck showed TIR of .002". I
verified this figure on my lathe too.
With the adjustable backplate, I am able to easily reduce runout to
well under .0005". (The needle on my dial test indicator was very
stable. I posted a movie file of this in the FILE section, but it's
a large file, so don't try downloading unless you have a broadband
connection.)

I used 12L14 steel for the backplate. Great stuff to machine!
I made the spindle recesses in the backplate only about .008"
oversize. I figured this would give me enough adjustment play to
compensate for the chuck runout of .002". I used four 10-32 brass-
tipped set screws for the adjustment capability. One of them is
shown in one of the pictures.

Here's a url to go to the photo folder

Here's a url for the video showing the runout


B Flint

Hi all,

I thought you might be interested in our very low cost Frog CNC
controller. The Frog controller is designed for lathes, mills,
rotary tables, and a variety of custom applications. It adds
precision and ease to your work.

Drop by our site today at:



Regards, Tom Wolf
eMachineShop.com

Hi all,

Until I decide which way I want to go with a lathe, would anyone here know
if it's possible to (easily) fit a lathe chuck on a drill press? No, I
don't intend to do any cutting/turning on the press, but I've had a local
machine shop make me some parts recently, and I'd like to clean them up with
sandpaper. If I could spin them, it would make life soooo much
easier/nicer. And since I'm 90% sure I'll get a lathe eventually....

If easily doable, is there a standard for the size(s) of the chucks?

Cheers,
-Neil.

Here's a link to the QCTP compound mod:



Frank Hoose


--- "bbftx <bflint@...>"
<bflint@...> wrote:

Roy,
I agree that cutting hardened shims with shop
scissors will mess
the scissors up. I avoided that annoyance by not
trying to cut the
feeler gauges! I used 'em as is. They rarely got in
the way of the
work on the lathe and that can usually be worked
around. I found
the gauges easier to stack than several pieces of
cut shim stock.

But of course, shims in general are annoying, so
going to a height-
adjustable QCTP is really the best way IMO! I
milled the underside
of my lower-compound so I could mount the Phase II
series 100 QCTP.
Much more convenient than messing with shims, and
much less chatter
(especially when combined with moving the pivot
point of the
compound, as documented elsewhere).
B Flint


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

It's easier to shim between the tool & the

toolpost; if you

rubberband the shims to the tool, they're ready to

go when you

change tools. Feeler gauges are annoying to use

because they're

hardened; they're destructive to shop scissors!

Most any thin

metal will work; the hobby shop K&S shim

assortment, "tin" can

stock, beer can stock, heavy-duty Al foil, etc..

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@...,

"kdoney_63021

<kdoney_63021@y...>" <kdoney_63021@y...> wrote:

I know I should know this but ... My tools are

hitting below the

center of a workpiece and I need move the tool

higher. I assume

I shim the tool holder around the toolpost but

with what? Is

there a specific shim stock or should I just buy

the same shims

I used to shim the lathe?

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Roy,
I agree that cutting hardened shims with shop scissors will mess
the scissors up. I avoided that annoyance by not trying to cut the
feeler gauges! I used 'em as is. They rarely got in the way of the
work on the lathe and that can usually be worked around. I found
the gauges easier to stack than several pieces of cut shim stock.

But of course, shims in general are annoying, so going to a height-
adjustable QCTP is really the best way IMO! I milled the underside
of my lower-compound so I could mount the Phase II series 100 QCTP.
Much more convenient than messing with shims, and much less chatter
(especially when combined with moving the pivot point of the
compound, as documented elsewhere).
B Flint


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

It's easier to shim between the tool & the toolpost; if you
rubberband the shims to the tool, they're ready to go when you
change tools. Feeler gauges are annoying to use because they're
hardened; they're destructive to shop scissors! Most any thin
metal will work; the hobby shop K&S shim assortment, "tin" can
stock, beer can stock, heavy-duty Al foil, etc..

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kdoney_63021
<kdoney_63021@y...>" <kdoney_63021@y...> wrote:

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the
center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume
I shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is
there a specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims
I used to shim the lathe?

It's easier to shim between the tool & the toolpost; if you
rubberband the shims to the tool, they're ready to go when you change
tools. Feeler gauges are annoying to use because they're hardened;
they're destructive to shop scissors! Most any thin metal will work;
the hobby shop K&S shim assortment, "tin" can stock, beer can stock,
heavy-duty Al foil, etc..

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kdoney_63021
<kdoney_63021@y...>" <kdoney_63021@y...> wrote:

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the
center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I
shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a
specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims I used to
shim the lathe?
Thank you

You can shim under the toolbit itself. Feeler gauges are a
convenient thing to use, since you can adjust to within a .001 pretty
easily. Go to www.sears.com and type this part number into the
search window: 00940804000
This is a 25 piece feeler gauge set for only 5.99. They come apart
just by unscrewing a nut and you can pick and choose a combination of
one or two gauges to shim your toolbit.
Eventually, you may decide you wan to to go to a quick change tool
post (QCTP), which makes shimming unnecessary.
B Flint



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kdoney_63021
<kdoney_63021@y...>" <kdoney_63021@y...> wrote:

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the
center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I
shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a
specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims I used to
shim the lathe?
Thank you

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the
center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I
shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a
specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims I used to
shim the lathe?
Thank you

John,

Very clever arrangement, I like it. As you say there is an upside and
downside. Upside is, quickly put in place with little in parts ...
except the QCTP. Using the compound on a slotted angle plate lowers
the cost and raises the capability. But that's a good job.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John <moran03@e...>"
<moran03@e...> wrote:

Hi Clay,

I'm a newbie too and have been experimenting with milling in my

lathe

with mixed results. I added a QC toolpost and found that this

allows

a crude vertical adjustment via the tool height; of course, you have
to stop, change vertical height, then make another pass so it is

very

slow but it does allow you to try milling. I hold work by bolting a
1/2" bar to the bottom of a small vise then mount this bar in the
toolpost. A picture is available to help make the setup clear:


You could do something similar using the regular toolpost by packing
to move things vertically, although the vertical movement would be
very small unless you packed the toolpost itself.

In addition to milling, I've found that a fly cutter provides a
simple and inexpensive way to make flat surfaces using the same
method of holding the work. Small items can be mounted in the
toolpost directly (or bolted to a piece of 1/2" stock) for milling

or

flycutting. I've had good luck with the flycutter once I got it
sharpened properly -- I broke the tips off of my carbide miller bit
by accidentally approaching the work too quickly which discouraged

me

somewhat -- the flycutter seems relatively bulletproof and is
inexpensive.

The sphere cutter shown on the above page had the slot for the tool
holder milled into the aluminum on my lathe by bolting the 2.5"
aluminum round to a 1/2" steel piece which was mounted in the
toolpost. The steel tool holder for the sphere fixture was shaped
mostly with a fly cutter plus some enthusiastic filing.

None of the above allows speedy results but it does allow trying
things out at little expense in $ or time.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@y...>"
<ccarlile1@y...> wrote:

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having
a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are
probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already

gotten

from their web sites and from the user groups on the Internet.
Unfortunately for my bank account, I have also found that
milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's site

and

the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found the $129
milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone offer
comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both the pros
and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Hi Clay,

I'm a newbie too and have been experimenting with milling in my lathe
with mixed results. I added a QC toolpost and found that this allows
a crude vertical adjustment via the tool height; of course, you have
to stop, change vertical height, then make another pass so it is very
slow but it does allow you to try milling. I hold work by bolting a
1/2" bar to the bottom of a small vise then mount this bar in the
toolpost. A picture is available to help make the setup clear:


You could do something similar using the regular toolpost by packing
to move things vertically, although the vertical movement would be
very small unless you packed the toolpost itself.

In addition to milling, I've found that a fly cutter provides a
simple and inexpensive way to make flat surfaces using the same
method of holding the work. Small items can be mounted in the
toolpost directly (or bolted to a piece of 1/2" stock) for milling or
flycutting. I've had good luck with the flycutter once I got it
sharpened properly -- I broke the tips off of my carbide miller bit
by accidentally approaching the work too quickly which discouraged me
somewhat -- the flycutter seems relatively bulletproof and is
inexpensive.

The sphere cutter shown on the above page had the slot for the tool
holder milled into the aluminum on my lathe by bolting the 2.5"
aluminum round to a 1/2" steel piece which was mounted in the
toolpost. The steel tool holder for the sphere fixture was shaped
mostly with a fly cutter plus some enthusiastic filing.

None of the above allows speedy results but it does allow trying
things out at little expense in $ or time.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@y...>"
<ccarlile1@y...> wrote:

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having
a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are
probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already

gotten

from their web sites and from the user groups on the Internet.
Unfortunately for my bank account, I have also found that
milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's site

and

the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found the $129
milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone offer
comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both the pros
and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Clay,

I agree with the other two responses. However, while I would not
purchase a milling attachment, you may wish to try the Varmint Al
homemade approach as an exercise. And to keep the cost of the
experiment down, instead of a small vise just make a device similar to
the multiple screw clamping unit of the Sieg milling atachment out of
either heavy channel or fabricate it with aluminum plate and cap
screws. Just attach it with a single bolt into the compound slide
toolpost threaded hole. The single bolt will allow rotation of the
"vise".

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@y...>"
<ccarlile1@y...> wrote:

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having
a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are
probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already gotten
from their web sites and from the user groups on the Internet.
Unfortunately for my bank account, I have also found that
milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's site

and

the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found the $129
milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone offer
comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both the pros
and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Clay
The mill/drill being offered by Homier might be an alternative, it is 199.00
which is only 70.00 than the attachment and will do a lot more work
Clint

Clay,
I've travelled the same road you are embarking on.
I've milled on my 7x12 and on a Burke horizontal miller I bought
last fall. I used the Taig milling attachment on my 7x12. You can
get it for $47 from www.discountcampus.com . Click on "Taig" and
look for part # 1220. It's not quite as nice as the LMS one you
saw, but it is a lot cheaper, and works OK for what it is.

However, aside from the low cost and space saving aspect of milling
on the lathe, I can't think of many other positives. I much prefer
milling on my Burke. The working envelope on the lathe is very
small. Depending on the part you're trying to make, and the setup,
you usually only have an inch or so of movement along the y and
z axis. This is the biggest limitation.

I completed two little projects using the Taig attachment on the
lathe before a dedicated mill became "a necessity" for me.

Even if you only have the space for one of the mini-mills, I think
it offers more flexibility than trying to mill on the lathe.
Plus, it's just more fun to have a real mill.
So, if it was me starting over, knowing what I know now, I'd
probably skip buying the milling attachment for the lathe and look
for a mill from the get go.
B Flint



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@y...>"
<ccarlile1@y...> wrote:

... I have also found that

milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's
site and the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found
the $129 milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone
offer comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both
the pros and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Thank You,
Paul G

www.cnczone.com

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having
a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are
probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already gotten
from their web sites and from the user groups on the Internet.
Unfortunately for my bank account, I have also found that
milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's site and
the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found the $129
milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone offer
comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both the pros
and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Neil,
I don't know if this is exactly what you're looking for, but here are
a couple of URLs that define symbols and standards.





B Flint

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Neil" <cobra_neil@a...> wrote:

Would any of you be able to point me to a decent online

tutorial/reference

of CAD drafting standards? Been a looonnnggg time since I've done

any of

this, and I want to re-learn the symbols for finish types, which

lines to

use for what, etc.

Thanks,
-Neil.

Would any of you be able to point me to a decent online tutorial/reference
of CAD drafting standards? Been a looonnnggg time since I've done any of
this, and I want to re-learn the symbols for finish types, which lines to
use for what, etc.

Thanks,
-Neil.