Re: Great flea-market deal (on something I don't really need)
As I said, the thing I bought in Maine last week is not a pin vise. It's a very high-end miniature chuck. I wish it went up a little larger, but for $10 I can't complain.
I do also have several Starrett pin vises (yet another flea market find, decades ago).? I used to drill 1/16" and smaller holes by holding one of those in my regular drill chuck. But that's way inferior in accuracy to what I'll get holding this Albrecht chuck in an endmill holder. (And I even happen to have a 1/2" endmill holder I never use, so it all works out).
Mike Taglieri?
On Fri, Dec 1, 2023, 4:41 PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
Ok ?
animal
On 12/1/23 11:32 AM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
Pin vises would not typically
(or not at all in my opinion) have a ground shank like that.?
Also, the handles are typically not a large diameter like that
since they are meant to be used with some finesse.? Various
small chucks like that are sold with everything like a shank
like that to one that will fit in a Dremel tool collet or
similar.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Friday, December 1, 2023 at 10:46:56 AM PST, mike
allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? Nice score . I have a 4 piece set of Starrett pin
vise's? like that , There real handy if ya ever need
to drill out any jets in carburetors too .
animal
On 12/1/23
4:40 AM, Miket_NYC wrote:
As I've mentioned here before, I often go to
Pennies on the Dollar, an indoor flea market in
southern Maine.? There's a guy there who sells tools
& accessories, and on Black Friday I nabbed a
large bag of taps I really wanted, from a
machinist's?estate sale, so they were US brands, and
they ranged from 1/2-20 down to 3-56.
Then, as an afterthought, I offered the guy $10
for this, which I figured was a weird little pin
vise of some sort I might have a use for. He knew
even less about it than I did.
It turns out it's an Albrecht standard 0-1.5 mm
chuck in nice condition, listing for $699 new. It's
on a genuine Jacobs 1/2" shaft that's a nice sliding
fits in my 1/2" R8 endmill holder.
So now I'm all set if I want to drill tiny holes,
1/16" and smaller. Only problem is I hardly ever
need to drill such small?holes. (And the machinist
who previously owned this probably didn't either,
which explains its very nice condition).
So now this will go in MY machinist's chest and
probably be rarely used. If it ever winds up in my
estate sale, I hope it brings more than ten buck....
Mike Taglieri?
Attachments:
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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
"I thought all mini-lathes used timing belts, not v-belts."
When the original poster said "toothed belt," I figured that was what he was talking about, but then he mentioned he was? getting slippage of V-belts. Other people here were talking about V belts that have tooth profiles cut in the V area to make them more flexible.?
Maybe all of these can be called "toothed belts" casually, but I agree they're entirely different ways of transmitting power.? A V-belt, whether or not it has teeth cut in it, transmits power by pressing against the side of the pulley groove. That's the kind of belt that profits from belt dressings like molasses, honey, etc. A belt with teeth that mate with pulleys that have matching teeth doesn't slip and doesn't need belt dressing.??
I'm still not really sure which kind of belt the lathe in question has, or even if it's a mini-lathe. There are so many small lathes now, being made by companies in China and elsewhere, that it could be anything.?
Mike Taglieri?
I thought all mini-lathes used timing belts, not v-belts.? My HF 7X lathe has a toothed belt that is about 10mm wide.
Timing bets are much more efficient and can be smaller than v-belts and they don¡¯t depend on friction.
This is a good reference about V versus Cogged/Toothed belts:
Once you know the profile of the belt (there are many in
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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
Without a photo of what you have I can't figure out why you are having a problem; this is the drive belt on my 7x16:  While it can wear if mis-aligned on not properly tensioned, there's no way it can slip.
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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
I thought all mini-lathes used timing belts, not v-belts. ?My HF 7X lathe has a toothed belt that is about 10mm wide.
Timing bets are much more efficient and can be smaller than v-belts and they don¡¯t depend on friction.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 1, 2023, at 10:02?PM, BuffaloJohn <johndurbetaki@...> wrote:
This is a good reference about V versus Cogged/Toothed belts:
Once you know the profile of the belt (there are many in
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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
This is a good reference about V versus Cogged/Toothed belts:
Once you know the profile of the belt (there are many including metric and imperial variations) you can find the equivalent belt in a cogged belt. Most belts have ID information imprinted on them. Decoding that can be fun, but it isn't that hard. Profiles are published online and measuring the top width, bottom width, and depth will let you get the profile figured out. Belts are measured as outer length or circumference, which can be a little tricky if the belt is stiff, but a table top with your ruler or tape works well.
On Fri, Dec 1, 2023 at 9:52?PM BuffaloJohn via <johndurbetaki= [email protected]> wrote: The place the tooth or cog needs to be is in the pulley groove, so the bottom example you referenced would be the prefered profile. This was the style of the cogged (toothed) belt I replaced for both applications I had referred to.
If the original belt has the profile of the top example, then you would choose that, but that is less common. That top cog example would need an idler that is also a pulley shape though not as deep a groove. On Fri, Dec 1, 2023 at 7:23?PM Jon Rus? wrote:
Are you saying something like the Dayco
TOP Cog belt
Like ?
or the BOTTOM Cog belts
Like ?
There does need to be enough room for
the belt and a small belt needs to be manufactured.
----OR----
Are you talking about something else?
--
Buffalo John
--
Buffalo John
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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
It is a poly v belt not a v belt?
Dave?
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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
The place the tooth or cog needs to be is in the pulley groove, so the bottom example you referenced would be the prefered profile. This was the style of the cogged (toothed) belt I replaced for both applications I had referred to.
If the original belt has the profile of the top example, then you would choose that, but that is less common. That top cog example would need an idler that is also a pulley shape though not as deep a groove.
On Fri, Dec 1, 2023 at 7:23?PM Jon Rus? wrote:
Are you saying something like the Dayco
TOP Cog belt
Like ?
or the BOTTOM Cog belts
Like ?
There does need to be enough room for
the belt and a small belt needs to be manufactured.
----OR----
Are you talking about something else?
--
Buffalo John
|
Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
I think carbide tools are cheaper than a grinder. ?Also a beginner gets very usable professional quality tools with no grinding skill required.
Yes, making your own tool bits by hand is an ¡°old-timer¡± skill but it has a learning curve and requires a grinder.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 1, 2023, at 9:08?PM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
In case you didn't notice, I slipped in "grinder".? Personally, I can't see having a lathe without having at least something like a six inch bench grinder for grinding tool bits.
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Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
It would help trying before buying good luck .?
The power feed my lathe came hex nut at end of lathe lead screw so using a socket on motor to drive the screw .?
The hard part is finding a DC motor to wide speed at less 60 to 1 different like milling feed.? Right now I going to try a 20 rpm motor for low speed work.?
Making so I can easily change the gear motor. It cheaper than buying a wide range motor.?
Dave?
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Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
Walmart has a WEN for sale at about
$550
Please see attached image
On 12/1/2023 11:37 PM, mike allen
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Wen tossed their hat into the game a ways back .
animal
On 12/1/23 8:14 PM, Macrohenry via
groups.io wrote:
Thanks, all, I'm still shopping.
Dave, was the electric feed a buying option or did you construct
it yourself? Not having a lathe I'm trying to figure things like
this out before I buy.?
I'm suspecting that my quest is kind of a chicken and egg
situation. You have to have used a lathe some before you
actually know what to buy.
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Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
Since you seem to be on a tight budget, I would recommend against things like an electric leadscrew drive or DRO or any extra like that unless there is a compelling reason.? "Compelling" being a very important word as distinguished from "wouldn't it be really neat to have X feature."
In looking at these things, I suggest thinking of optional features and accessories by putting them into these categories (and this works for a lot of things).
-? Must Have -? Should Have -? Could Have
On a budget, it is probably best to stick to "Must Haves".? At least at first.? The standard mini-lathe setup is probably fine for a beginner.? Other things can be added later IF they are needed as a "must have" or enough expendable cash becomes available for a "should have" or even "could have."
Pretty much everything about a basic machine is inherently a "Must Have".? You really need a 3-jaw chuck and a Jacobs chuck for the tailstock because they are so commonly needed for so many things.? Also, tool bit blanks, a grinder to sharpen them, and a set of drills.? (Yes, you can buy pre-ground blanks or tool holders for inserts, but it is really best to learn how to grind your own.? inserts CAN be used with the mini lathe, but I think most get better results with an HSS or "High Speed Steel" tool bit.)
Depending on what you are doing, you might have some other "Must Haves" like a 4-Jaw chuck, faceplate with lathe dogs, boring bars, steady rests, even collets, and more.? But I doubt you could be sure of any such need at this point.
Or some of these things and other things might be "should haves" in your case.? Or even just "could haves."? Only you can know.? And since you are new to this, your probably don't know.? So, it might be best to wait until you start "making chips" and then if a need arises, get it then.
In case you didn't notice, I slipped in "grinder".? Personally, I can't see having a lathe without having at least something like a six inch bench grinder for grinding tool bits.
If you already have one, then you are all set.? If not, you can get a low end 6 inch bench grinder for about $50 that is 1/3 horsepower.? That isn't a lot, but you will be grinding relatively small cross section tool bits for a small lathe.? For around $100 you can find a 3/4 horsepower grinder.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Friday, December 1, 2023 at 08:14:18 PM PST, Macrohenry via groups.io <macrohenry@...> wrote:
Thanks, all, I'm still shopping.
Dave, was the electric feed a buying option or did you construct it yourself? Not having a lathe I'm trying to figure things like this out before I buy.?
I'm suspecting that my quest is kind of a chicken and egg situation. You have to have used a lathe some before you actually know what to buy.
|
Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
Wen tossed their hat into the game a ways back .
animal
On 12/1/23 8:14 PM, Macrohenry via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks, all, I'm still shopping.
Dave, was the electric feed a buying option or did you construct
it yourself? Not having a lathe I'm trying to figure things like
this out before I buy.?
I'm suspecting that my quest is kind of a chicken and egg
situation. You have to have used a lathe some before you actually
know what to buy.
|
Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
Thanks, all, I'm still shopping.
Dave, was the electric feed a buying option or did you construct it yourself? Not having a lathe I'm trying to figure things like this out before I buy.?
I'm suspecting that my quest is kind of a chicken and egg situation. You have to have used a lathe some before you actually know what to buy.
|
Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
Are you saying something like the Dayco
TOP Cog belt
Like ?
or the BOTTOM Cog belts
Like ?
There does need to be enough room for
the belt and a small belt needs to be manufactured.
----OR----
Are you talking about something else?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 12/1/2023 4:46 PM, BuffaloJohn
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Great advice.
I would switch to a toothed belt. Toothed belts have more
efficient power transfer - which means they don't waste power
by heating up nearly as much.
I have two mowers that use belts to transfer power from the
PTO shaft to the blades. One had regular V belts and the other
had Toothed V belts. The regular V belt mower always had
overheating of the belts issues, never could run more than 20
minutes without overheating? and as such, I was limited in how
much I could mow. I looked at the other mover which would run
flawlessly for 4+ hours at a time and it was Toothed V belts.
I had replaced the regular V belts (4 at a time) three times
and after changing to Toothed V belts, it now runs 4+ hours at
a time with no issues and the belts are cool to the touch.
I bought a horizontal band saw and during the uncrating and
setup, I saw it was using a regular V belt and I immediately
ordered a Toothed V belt and put the regular belt on the shelf
as a reference. The band saw run for hours at a time and
tension remains consistent and stable without any issues.
If I ran my drill press longer than I do, I would change
its belts as well.
If it's a V-belt rather than a toothed belt,
it needs a belt conditioner. There are many on the market,
but my favorite is a TINY BIT of molasses applied to the
pulleys. (Then run the lathe briefly to evenly spread it
out).
When I've mentioned this in the past, people
have wondered whether it attracts bugs. No, it never has
for me and I've used this on lathes, washing machines, and
cars.
Mike Taglieri?
Any
can tell me best way to stop?belt slip on Mini Lathe
Machine with 600W Metal ploy v belt.
Thank you?
Dave?
--
Buffalo John
|
On Fri, Dec 1, 2023 at 04:07 PM, mike allen wrote:
??? Are those coupler nuts ? I keep a couple from # 6 up to 1" in my tool box . They come in handy for so many uses .
animal
On 12/1/23 3:41 PM, Group Notification wrote:
The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...>
Description:
looking at building this follower resdt
It made from 3/4" hex bar stock I have lot on hand from my pass life. It 12L14 cuts nice.? I have not look at a coupler nuts I think a little small. Dave?
|
??? Are those coupler nuts ? I keep a couple from # 6 up to 1" in
my tool box . They come in handy for so many uses .
animal
On 12/1/23 3:41 PM, Group Notification
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files
area of the [email protected] group.
By: davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...>
Description:
looking at building this follower resdt
|
The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...>
Description:
looking at building this follower resdt
|
Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
Am trying TINY BIT of molasses applied pulley
I let set over night before? trying the lathe
Thank you
Dave
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Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
Re molasses?for belt slip; an old machinist recommended a very small amount of honey. Worked well!? ?Bill
Great advice.
I would switch to a toothed belt. Toothed belts have more efficient power transfer - which means they don't waste power by heating up nearly as much.
I have two mowers that use belts to transfer power from the PTO shaft to the blades. One had regular V belts and the other had Toothed V belts. The regular V belt mower always had overheating of the belts issues, never could run more than 20 minutes without overheating? and as such, I was limited in how much I could mow. I looked at the other mover which would run flawlessly for 4+ hours at a time and it was Toothed V belts. I had replaced the regular V belts (4 at a time) three times and after changing to Toothed V belts, it now runs 4+ hours at a time with no issues and the belts are cool to the touch.
I bought a horizontal band saw and during the uncrating and setup, I saw it was using a regular V belt and I immediately ordered a Toothed V belt and put the regular belt on the shelf as a reference. The band saw run for hours at a time and tension remains consistent and stable without any issues.
If I ran my drill press longer than I do, I would change its belts as well.
If it's a V-belt rather than a toothed belt, it needs a belt conditioner. There are many on the market, but my favorite is a TINY BIT of molasses applied to the pulleys. (Then run the lathe briefly to evenly spread it out).
When I've mentioned this in the past, people have wondered whether it attracts bugs. No, it never has for me and I've used this on lathes, washing machines, and cars.
Mike Taglieri?
Any can tell me best way to stop?belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W Metal ploy v belt.
Thank you?
Dave?
--
Buffalo John
|
Re: belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W
Great advice.
I would switch to a toothed belt. Toothed belts have more efficient power transfer - which means they don't waste power by heating up nearly as much.
I have two mowers that use belts to transfer power from the PTO shaft to the blades. One had regular V belts and the other had Toothed V belts. The regular V belt mower always had overheating of the belts issues, never could run more than 20 minutes without overheating? and as such, I was limited in how much I could mow. I looked at the other mover which would run flawlessly for 4+ hours at a time and it was Toothed V belts. I had replaced the regular V belts (4 at a time) three times and after changing to Toothed V belts, it now runs 4+ hours at a time with no issues and the belts are cool to the touch.
I bought a horizontal band saw and during the uncrating and setup, I saw it was using a regular V belt and I immediately ordered a Toothed V belt and put the regular belt on the shelf as a reference. The band saw run for hours at a time and tension remains consistent and stable without any issues.
If I ran my drill press longer than I do, I would change its belts as well.
If it's a V-belt rather than a toothed belt, it needs a belt conditioner. There are many on the market, but my favorite is a TINY BIT of molasses applied to the pulleys. (Then run the lathe briefly to evenly spread it out).
When I've mentioned this in the past, people have wondered whether it attracts bugs. No, it never has for me and I've used this on lathes, washing machines, and cars.
Mike Taglieri?
Any can tell me best way to stop?belt slip on Mini Lathe Machine with 600W Metal ploy v belt.
Thank you?
Dave?
--
Buffalo John
|
BuffaloJohn
davesmith1800
