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Re: MicroMark 7x16 Fault Notice
I have rechecked everything mentioned and that yielded nothing notable. There was no jamming or anything of the sort.
The switch operates as it should. I still get a fault (yellow lamp is lit. I am not aware of any reset button. The only thing I did that lead up to this condition was that I was moving the lathe and removed the motor to lighten the load. Is there anything else I should be looking at that might be the cause of not being able to start the lathe???? Any input always welcome! Dick |
Re: machining in a small shop
charles wrote:
> Another tangential idea to the old sewing machine flip over design is the > Sears Craftsman "Rotary Tool Bench." I think this is an idea that might Wow. That thing's amazing. Might work better on paper than in practice, indeed! But I can certainly see the attraction. Comes with a free cord winding mechanism! ;-) In addition to the tools in my shop, I have a disk sander, drum sander, table saw, wood lathe, vertical and horizontal drill press, and jointer, all in a very compact footprint, in the form of a 1952 Shopsmith. I know a thing or two about convertible machines. ;-) (It spends most of its time as a wood lathe or disk sander. I set it up as a jointer one time, and it kind of scared the bejeezus out of me!) But I gotta say, I'm lovin' this group's creativity! paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 39.8 degrees) |
Re: machining in a small shop
If you do something like store it on a bench to the side front to back, you could have a shelf surface above where the lathe is stored to provide some additional flat surface.? You would still have all the square footage of the workbench, just with some of it elevated. Another tangential idea to the old sewing machine flip over design is the Sears Craftsman "Rotary Tool Bench."? I think this is an idea that might look a little better on paper than in practice (and might be a reason why it is no longer made.).? It is also designed for sort of smallish tools.? But a three-sided scheme could probably be made that would the lathe on one face, something else on another face, and perhaps the last face blank to just be more workbench surface when neither of the two machines are being used. I'm thinking that it might be about the same work to make a three-position rotary as a two-position flip (or something that raised and lowered the lathe with an insert to fill the hole when lowered)..? And that would provide a home for another machine perhaps infrequently used.? The weight imbalance would be an issue to deal with, or at least be very careful with. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Saturday, December 30, 2023 at 11:50:46 AM PST, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
mike wrote: > ... Could ya make a > cutout in one of the work benches with the lathe mounted to it & when > not in use ya turn it over & the lathe is now mounted upside down under > the bench top . ... Ha!? That's great!? It's particularly amusing to me, since my main reason for getting a lathe is that I collect and restore antique sewing machines, and they sometimes need parts or screws that can't be found anymore.? And sewing machines very often are stowed in their cabinets by sort of flipping them upside down, just like you describe.? It would be perfect.? :-) But I suspect there are easier ways.? Arthur suggested wheels -- very true, and much of my stuff is already on casters so I can move it around.? If I can find a place to park a small bench with the lathe on it, that might well be the answer.? (There's one particular sewing machine that might be a good candidate for sale in that case -- it occupies a prime spot under the cellar stairs.)? And also as Arthur said, having a cabinet under the lathe for all of the lathe-related stuff would be smart.? Hadn't thought about that. paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 41.9 degrees) |
Re: machining in a small shop
Charles, thanks for all your thoughts on chip cleanup. Sounds like the
problem is about what I thought it would be. A problem, for sure, but not insurmountable. There's already a rug on the way out of the shop, but since that's in the laundry area, it's probably not the right one to embed chips in. ;-) Guess I'll need to get another one, closer to the work area. Regarding my "long swirls" of swarf comment -- I guess I've had a misconception for some time. I thought I'd heard/read that when drilling metal, you can tell your speed is good because you'll get those long spirals. Clearly I need to relearn that! paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 40.7 degrees) |
Re: machining in a small shop
mike wrote:
> ... Could ya make a > cutout in one of the work benches with the lathe mounted to it & when > not in use ya turn it over & the lathe is now mounted upside down under > the bench top . ... Ha! That's great! It's particularly amusing to me, since my main reason for getting a lathe is that I collect and restore antique sewing machines, and they sometimes need parts or screws that can't be found anymore. And sewing machines very often are stowed in their cabinets by sort of flipping them upside down, just like you describe. It would be perfect. :-) But I suspect there are easier ways. Arthur suggested wheels -- very true, and much of my stuff is already on casters so I can move it around. If I can find a place to park a small bench with the lathe on it, that might well be the answer. (There's one particular sewing machine that might be a good candidate for sale in that case -- it occupies a prime spot under the cellar stairs.) And also as Arthur said, having a cabinet under the lathe for all of the lathe-related stuff would be smart. Hadn't thought about that. paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 41.9 degrees) |
Re: machining in a small shop
Think wheels.? I have my mini lathe on a HF cabinet that provides storage for all the accessories that one tends to accumulate.? 3d printer mounted on a rolling cabinet from Home Depot that provides storage for all the stuff that you accumulate with that discipline.? My other large power tools (bandsae, RAS) are mounted on castors.? My work bench is also a fold away type.? Anyways, keep in mind you aren't buying just a mini lathe - you are buying/making a lot of other stuff that you will be using with the lathe.
On Saturday, December 30, 2023 at 09:57:04 AM PST, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
My small shop is decidedly mixed-use:? wood work (manual, plus occasional CNC milling), some electronics (Raspberry Pi type stuff), general homeowner workbench use, and, hopefully someday soon, machining. So, in thinking about getting a mini lathe, I'm trying to think about how it will fit into my shop, in various ways.? And I'm sure other folks here have had the same issues. The first is simply space:? my shop is "cozy".? I think it's about 12' x 12' out of a longer room that also holds our furnace and laundry machines.? I have two workbenches, a band saw, a grinder/sander, and a drill press in that space, and some low cabinets which currently hold my CNC mill at chair height.? The lathe will live either where the CNC mill is now (but currently that would mean sitting and/or leaning to use it, rather than standing), or on one of the work benches (but that means losing the other uses of that bench while doing lathe projects). It might also be able to live crosswise at the end of one of the benches, since the benches are about as deep as the lathe will be wide, but I'm not sure how practical that will be. Thoughts on any of that?? Is sitting in front of a lathe a no-no?? It works for the CNC mill, but they're somewhat different animals. Second, other than hand tools and drill press, the lathe will be the first metal machining equipment I've introduced to the shop.? Clearly I'll want a good cover for the lathe when it's not in use, since it will basically be a magnet for sawdust and dryer lint, otherwise. But it will also be generating a lot of chips and swarf.? How controllable is that?? Is a "dust collection" solution possible?? I assume most of the chips land under the lathe, but how much get launched several feet away?? My shop vac doubles as dust collector for the bandsaw and mill, and since I wanted really good dust collection, it's a Fein, and has a bag.? But its hose is just 1-3/8". That's okay for sawdust, but I'm picturing it jamming up with long swirls of swarf if I use it around the lathe.? Will it be at all useful? What tricks/techniques do you all use for controlling machining mess? (I've been watching a bunch of YT videos, and was really hoping Blondihacks had covered this -- it would be right up her alley.? But haven't found anything, really, by her or anyone else.) And finally -- a lathe storage question.? Floor space is at a premium in my cellar, not just in the shop, so if I want to move the lathe elsewhere (to free up its workbench, or to use the CNC mill instead), it occurs to me that storing the lathe on end might make finding space easier.? Can that be done? I know -- too long, too many questions in one post.? Sorry! paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 41.9 degrees) |
Re: machining in a small shop
I would think that if yer gonna try to store a mini lathe on end that is should be mounted to a solid base for horizontal use that can double as part of what would be needed to hold it vertically . Could ya make a cutout in one of the work benches with the lathe mounted to it & when not in use ya turn it over & the lathe is now mounted upside down under the bench top . Does that make any sense to anyone . Ya don't want to have to go through a big hassle every time ya want to use the lathe or the bench top .
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animal On 12/30/23 9:56 AM, Paul Fox wrote:
My small shop is decidedly mixed-use: wood work (manual, plus |
Re: DC power supply grounding
The fuse can only protect when there is only one path for a return current and fusing N does not protect L from returning on GROUND. Yes, it does matter where the fuse is. On Sat, Dec 30, 2023 at 9:44?AM Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...> wrote:
--
Buffalo John |
Re: machining in a small shop
I don't see any reason you can't store a mini-lathe on end.? (Unlike some larger lathes, it doesn't have any "oil bath" areas where oil could run out.) Regarding clean up, usually it is common to just use a brush(es) to brush everything to a point and sweep it into a dust pan or container.? Yes, most chips fall down.? But some will inevitably go elsewhere, especially on the floor, onto the bottom of your shoes, and tracked elsewhere if you aren't careful.? (I just have an old piece of regular carpeting from where my machine tools are to a door into the house and it works nearly perfectly for the "shoe" problem.) I think it is exceedingly uncommon, if ever, to use "dust collection" with a lathe except in an industrial setting where a hazardous material like pure beryllium is being machined.? Usually, the chips aren't very dust-like.? And if using any cutting oil, also damp.? Machining cast iron will produce something that is closer to "dust", but still not that fine.? I would not relate it to the dust produced in woodworking. For small lathe, it can be handy to have a little removable tray that just fits under the full length of the ways.? Most chips will end up there and it is easy to remove and dump, and then, by brush or vacuum, clean the little that is left around the area and on the lathe.? These lathes come with a chip pan which the lathe is bolted to, but you don't need to use it.? Sort of a judgement call in my view.? On a larger lathe, you may be using a lot of oil, or coolant, and need something to catch it.? That's not typical on a mini lathe. You can certainly use a vacuum device if you want.? But you mentioned "long swirls of swarf" which I think are more commonly called "stringy chips."? That suggests another topic which is that you should NEVER be producing long stringy chips.? They are a hazard as they can suddenly wrap around and grab something like fingers and instantly pull them into the spinning chuck and workpiece.? In fact, in some machine shops, producing stringy chips can be a firing offense.? They are way to control chip production, especially having a "chip breaker" feature ground into the tool. If you want to store the lathe front to back on a workbench when not in use, you might be able to put the lathe on wood or MDF piece bolted near the end of the bench (left or right) where you want to store it front to back.? Then it could just be swiveled to normal position? ?Then swiveled back to the storage position, and as a bonus be held down to the bench, at least at one end.. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Saturday, December 30, 2023 at 09:57:04 AM PST, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
My small shop is decidedly mixed-use:? wood work (manual, plus occasional CNC milling), some electronics (Raspberry Pi type stuff), general homeowner workbench use, and, hopefully someday soon, machining. So, in thinking about getting a mini lathe, I'm trying to think about how it will fit into my shop, in various ways.? And I'm sure other folks here have had the same issues. The first is simply space:? my shop is "cozy".? I think it's about 12' x 12' out of a longer room that also holds our furnace and laundry machines.? I have two workbenches, a band saw, a grinder/sander, and a drill press in that space, and some low cabinets which currently hold my CNC mill at chair height.? The lathe will live either where the CNC mill is now (but currently that would mean sitting and/or leaning to use it, rather than standing), or on one of the work benches (but that means losing the other uses of that bench while doing lathe projects). It might also be able to live crosswise at the end of one of the benches, since the benches are about as deep as the lathe will be wide, but I'm not sure how practical that will be. Thoughts on any of that?? Is sitting in front of a lathe a no-no?? It works for the CNC mill, but they're somewhat different animals. Second, other than hand tools and drill press, the lathe will be the first metal machining equipment I've introduced to the shop.? Clearly I'll want a good cover for the lathe when it's not in use, since it will basically be a magnet for sawdust and dryer lint, otherwise. But it will also be generating a lot of chips and swarf.? How controllable is that?? Is a "dust collection" solution possible?? I assume most of the chips land under the lathe, but how much get launched several feet away?? My shop vac doubles as dust collector for the bandsaw and mill, and since I wanted really good dust collection, it's a Fein, and has a bag.? But its hose is just 1-3/8". That's okay for sawdust, but I'm picturing it jamming up with long swirls of swarf if I use it around the lathe.? Will it be at all useful? What tricks/techniques do you all use for controlling machining mess? (I've been watching a bunch of YT videos, and was really hoping Blondihacks had covered this -- it would be right up her alley.? But haven't found anything, really, by her or anyone else.) And finally -- a lathe storage question.? Floor space is at a premium in my cellar, not just in the shop, so if I want to move the lathe elsewhere (to free up its workbench, or to use the CNC mill instead), it occurs to me that storing the lathe on end might make finding space easier.? Can that be done? I know -- too long, too many questions in one post.? Sorry! paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 41.9 degrees) |
Re: DC power supply grounding
Chris Albertson
On Dec 30, 2023, at 6:11?AM, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote: On the electrical and computer side, it is just LCNC with three stepper motors, So the LCNC documentation applies. But on the mechanical side, there is custom-made parts that fit the motors to the HF mini mill. These are VERY specific to the exact mill because screw holes have to line up. As it turns out converting a mill is not hard. You don¡¯t need to make strong cast iron parts as the motor mount only has to handle the moter¡¯s torque reaction. A 4 Newton meter motor can only push with 4 newton meters of force on the motor mount. 3D-printed plastic is strong and rigid enough to handle that. But, that style of conversion where you put motors on existing hand wheel makes the CNC machine only as good as the manualy machine because you are keeping the old lead screws and nuts and keeping all their slop and backlash. A better conversion would replace the lead screws with ball screws that have close to zero backlash. I did replace the Z axis system with a ball screw because the Harbor Freight Z system is very poor. Yes it is written up in the CAD files. Here is a render from CAD. If anyone wants I can post a link to CAD files that could be turned into 3D prints. The X and Y axis are obvious from the picture but the Z axis is a complete replacement. You can see that the ball screw is stationary. It does not rotate. The ball nut spins and there is a big thrust bearing under it that takes the full weight of the machine head. When I first started, I figured I would do the conversion using plastic parts, then use the mill to make better parts from metal. But the plastic seems to be mostly good enough (just one part has too much flex) I have a home-made CNC mill |
machining in a small shop
My small shop is decidedly mixed-use: wood work (manual, plus
occasional CNC milling), some electronics (Raspberry Pi type stuff), general homeowner workbench use, and, hopefully someday soon, machining. So, in thinking about getting a mini lathe, I'm trying to think about how it will fit into my shop, in various ways. And I'm sure other folks here have had the same issues. The first is simply space: my shop is "cozy". I think it's about 12' x 12' out of a longer room that also holds our furnace and laundry machines. I have two workbenches, a band saw, a grinder/sander, and a drill press in that space, and some low cabinets which currently hold my CNC mill at chair height. The lathe will live either where the CNC mill is now (but currently that would mean sitting and/or leaning to use it, rather than standing), or on one of the work benches (but that means losing the other uses of that bench while doing lathe projects). It might also be able to live crosswise at the end of one of the benches, since the benches are about as deep as the lathe will be wide, but I'm not sure how practical that will be. Thoughts on any of that? Is sitting in front of a lathe a no-no? It works for the CNC mill, but they're somewhat different animals. Second, other than hand tools and drill press, the lathe will be the first metal machining equipment I've introduced to the shop. Clearly I'll want a good cover for the lathe when it's not in use, since it will basically be a magnet for sawdust and dryer lint, otherwise. But it will also be generating a lot of chips and swarf. How controllable is that? Is a "dust collection" solution possible? I assume most of the chips land under the lathe, but how much get launched several feet away? My shop vac doubles as dust collector for the bandsaw and mill, and since I wanted really good dust collection, it's a Fein, and has a bag. But its hose is just 1-3/8". That's okay for sawdust, but I'm picturing it jamming up with long swirls of swarf if I use it around the lathe. Will it be at all useful? What tricks/techniques do you all use for controlling machining mess? (I've been watching a bunch of YT videos, and was really hoping Blondihacks had covered this -- it would be right up her alley. But haven't found anything, really, by her or anyone else.) And finally -- a lathe storage question. Floor space is at a premium in my cellar, not just in the shop, so if I want to move the lathe elsewhere (to free up its workbench, or to use the CNC mill instead), it occurs to me that storing the lathe on end might make finding space easier. Can that be done? I know -- too long, too many questions in one post. Sorry! paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 41.9 degrees) |
Re: DC power supply grounding
Chris Albertson
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe purpose of a fuse is to protect the wires and prevent a fire. ?In that case it does not matter where the fuse is. ? As for AC electrical safety that is the job of the breaker box. ? New construction requires GFI and ARC prevention breakers in the panel box. ?Yes, these cost $100+ each but that is the current standard and they work well. ? If you have a new up to code system you can be in the bath tub and drop the hair drier in and be fine, even with no GFCI outlets.In your garage, if it is an older building, you would not have the new-stile breakers, but you would be required to have GFCI outlets installed. ?Again don¡¯t worry, you can put paper clips into a GFCI and not burn your fingers. ?If the lathe is in the garage and the garage has GFCI, you are 100% safe even if standing in a pool of water. ? If the garage is from the 1960¡¯s and lacks GFCI, then spend $20 and buy a new outlet. ? Or spend $100 and replace the breaker. Again fuses are there to protect the wire and prevent it from melting, ?That is it. ?You should have a fuse on the DC side of any DC power supply. ?The fuse is sized to be less than the ampacity of the wire. Why is this? ?Because it only takes a few milliamps to kill you. ?That 5 amp fuse will blow and 5,000 milliamps but you are dead at 100 milliamps. ? ?So if you are worried about electrocution, use GFCI, and if you are worried about a fire use a breaker of a fuse.
|
Re: DC power supply grounding
ChazzC
The schematic that came with my Micromark/MicoLux #84631 7x16 (purchased in 2014) shows the fuse on the Line:
I can't think of any reason it would be otherwise: protecting the neutral and not the hot is bad practice. The fuse is downstream of the power switch and the hot contact for the fuse is at the bottom of the fuse holder so the only way you could touch the hot side would be to stick something into the holder; the holder is designed to protect you from touching the fuse until it is completely out of contact with the circuit: |
Re: Magnetic DRO Reader Gounding?
Yes, keep the low voltage circuits isolated from the lathe AC ground. Ferrite beads are to suppress high frequency noise and won't do anything to suppress full line AC if by chance line voltage is shunted to ground in a fault. If in such a situation, full line voltage might appear for a short time on the dc supply until the fuse blows. Might be a really short time, but the spike could be 100+ volts. On Sat, Dec 30, 2023 at 4:58?AM CBJessee-N4SRN <cbjesseeNH@...> wrote: The LMS DRO has a SIEG Bluetooth box to which the reader head cables connect. It¡¯s powered by a 12V switching ¡°wall wart¡± PSU. Do I understand correctly that the lathe/DRO reader heads ground should remain separate from the PCB? --
Buffalo John |
Re: DC power supply grounding
The fuse must be on the hot leg. You can fuse both L and N, but if the fuse blows in that diagram and the emergency switch is engaged (either from failure on the switch or re-engagement) then line voltage flows to the circuit. While the N return is opened by the fuse, shorting from L to the chassis will let current flow. Always have fuses or breakers on the L side. On Sat, Dec 30, 2023 at 8:46?AM Mark Kimball <markkimball51@...> wrote: RE:? fuse on the neutral side.? There might be a couple of reasons why it's on that leg.? The first is that the fuse is user-replaceable so it's less dangerous in terms of inadvertently coming in contact with AC when replacing a blown fuse.? The second is that the controller may be designed so that the emergency switch opens up when the controller loses power (as in, when the fuse opens up). --
Buffalo John |
Re: DC power supply grounding
RE:? fuse on the neutral side.? There might be a couple of reasons why it's on that leg.? The first is that the fuse is user-replaceable so it's less dangerous in terms of inadvertently coming in contact with AC when replacing a blown fuse.? The second is that the controller may be designed so that the emergency switch opens up when the controller loses power (as in, when the fuse opens up).
A third is that the schematic you've got is incorrect.? It wouldn't be the first time. These are just guesses on my part.? Mark |
Re: Grizzly is doing better - I hope!!!
For a while Grizzly was selling off South Bend lathes assembled from leftover stock. But $26,000 for a "New"SB was a bit much!? ?Bill On Sat, Dec 30, 2023 at 8:00?AM davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote: I have never purchased from Grizzly? |
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