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Turn the jaws around first . Then I would drill a hole through the 90 centers with one of the openings & run a piece of all thread or a long bolt through the spindle with a washer & a nut on each end

I've got a 70's era radial arm saw with a dust collection port that doesn't match current vacuum fittings.? I bored one end of a 1 1/4" PVC coupling to fit the saw outlet and the other end to fit the

It’s a LMS 4100 upgraded to a 16” bed - it has a brushless motor. I know it has an over-current cut-off and that’s what’s kicking in. What I can’t figure is why I’m might be over-feeding

Which 7x16 is it?? That doc is for the older Brushed DC motors. If it's a BLDC 7x16 it'd be a different drive and motor...

Try the excellent troubleshooting guide from LMS: < https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/PDF/drivetroubleshooting.pdf > Roy

Too much "Feed"?

Is it only when using a steady rest that this happens? You probably need to check the amps. [email protected]> wrote:

The motor on my LMS 7x16 cuts out turning down 360 brass when using a steady rest with a HSS tool. The 7" 1.25" brass rod is centered in my 4-jaw cuck to 0.005" and the Steady Rest is 2.25" back from

The I purchased last came with metric lead screw 2.00mm I do most time both inch and metric with dies. If doing projects that needs both inside and outside threads I just 2.00, 1.00 or 0.50 mm

Contact LittleMachineShop and see what they say instead of relying on just the website.? They do know a thing or two.

I have a handwheel not a crank so it no problem with power reverse. I have cut many threads this way. [email protected]> wrote:

The problem with cutting threads of a system different from the lead screw is that the gears can't be disengaged & re-engaged in the same position. You have to keep them engaged the whole time and

I still have my 20-year-old mini lathe and it is just fine the way it came. Regards, John Mattis (retired mechanical engineer) [email protected]> wrote:

Pierre, I believe both versions of the lathe use module 1 gears. And I think they are sold with same set of nylon gears. But I could be wrong about that. I have done some single point threading on

With my metric lathe I got the imperial 16 TPI leadscrew and half nuts, I don’t recall getting a spare apron so I don’t think that’s a problem. I’ve only had to cut a few imperial threads,

Wasn't thinking about that but st a minimum I'm pretty sure you're going to have to swap the half nut actuator shaft and maybe the apron. The nuts use a different engagement to the shaft and I don't

Tony Smith, I suspect you are right about shipping. But I will keep that in mind. Thanks. Tom

Roy, I am still considering my options and may decide it's not worth switching. Tom

Grizzly has them for their 7x14 which is like the Real Bull. The part number is P0765129 and lists for $53.50. You would also need to change the half nuts. The part number is P0765075 and lists for

Hi Thomas, If you want to replace a metric lead screw by an imperial one, the pinion sets, as per the threading table of your lathe, will need to be modified. This is mandatory