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--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "wb2tdg" <WB2TDG@a...> wrote:

I recently bought a 7x12 Homier and so far so good. The question I
have is when I shut the varible speed knob to off and manually turn
the lathe backwards I can feel a restriction. If I turn the

electric

switch to off it goes away. Its like the electronics are holding it
from being turned easily. The main question is will this hurt the
electronics? Its a pain to turn off the speed control and main

switch

just to turn it backwards a turn or so. When it is in reverse the
same thing happens. The restriction is felt only in one direction

not

the direction that forward reverse switch is set. Thank you for any
help Ken

Hi Ken:

Like most DC brush motor controllers you can reduce the speed control
to the point the motor stops turning. But this probably doesn't mean
that you can stop current through the motor by turning the speed
control to off. In this case the motor is still "on" but it just
isn't turning.

I think it would be normal to feel some residual effect and to truly
shut off the motor requires the main switch. Maybe the speed control
should say 0 rpm rather than "off".

my thoughts,
Mike...

just had a look at my chester conquest and it doesnt seem to do that


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@...
www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers
www.smartgroups.com/groups/pre78bmw

I recently bought a 7x12 Homier and so far so good. The question I
have is when I shut the varible speed knob to off and manually turn
the lathe backwards I can feel a restriction. If I turn the electric
switch to off it goes away. Its like the electronics are holding it
from being turned easily. The main question is will this hurt the
electronics? Its a pain to turn off the speed control and main switch
just to turn it backwards a turn or so. When it is in reverse the
same thing happens. The restriction is felt only in one direction not
the direction that forward reverse switch is set. Thank you for any
help Ken

Well right now I cna't get into any more hobbys lol, costs to much on
ym part time job... Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for answering all
my questions on knifemaking!

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
Make up a few and show people what you can do. That's the

best

sales tool. You can use the stock removal method and only have to

cut metal

away. Then find somebody to heat treat and temper them for you. Add

the

scales of grips and you have a knife. You should look into leather

work, a

good knife is not useful unless you have something to carry it in.

Jerry

At 02:30 AM 11/29/2002 +0000, you wrote:

yes that I heard was also referred to as watered steel, but the
concept is awesome and must take forever~! I bet you charge and

arm

and a leg for thatif you ever make them... Maybe when I am older
and have a good paying job I might get into knife making, there is

a

profit to be made, some old timers these days have money and want a
special knife made for them. Good side hobby for some spare cash,
along with machining if you machine the right stuff!

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
Damascus steel, is bars of steel are forged together,

much

folding

of the metal goes on during the process. You must flux with

something that

contains borax, or you can use the stuff at from store (20 Mule

Team Brand,

100% Borax) Some Fluxes are designed for gas forges or coal

forges.

You make a billet out of several layers of steels, when

different

steels are layered, you get a layered effect in the finish

product.

I

sometime add a layer of nickle or copper. Damascus is prized

because of the

patterned product that is created.
It's a lot of heat in the forge, hammering, fluxing,

folding and

repeat the process many times. There are added steps to get

different

patterns.
To do it, isn't that difficult, it's just time

consuming

and right

equipment does get a little pricey, but lesser equipment will

do,

just add

more time because of the equipment.

Hope this gets you excited to do knives and start building your

smithy.

Jerry
At 12:41 AM 11/29/2002 +0000, you wrote:

wow sounds cool, damascus how exactly do you make that, is it

just

a

really high carbon steel? Somewher eI heard of watered steel

or

something along those lines, not sure if it was real or no.
Supposedly really hard and holds an edge.

Sean

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Sean,
Make up a few and show people what you can do. That's the best
sales tool. You can use the stock removal method and only have to cut metal
away. Then find somebody to heat treat and temper them for you. Add the
scales of grips and you have a knife. You should look into leather work, a
good knife is not useful unless you have something to carry it in.

Jerry

yes that I heard was also referred to as watered steel, but the
concept is awesome and must take forever~! I bet you charge and arm
and a leg for thatif you ever make them... Maybe when I am older
and have a good paying job I might get into knife making, there is a
profit to be made, some old timers these days have money and want a
special knife made for them. Good side hobby for some spare cash,
along with machining if you machine the right stuff!

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
Damascus steel, is bars of steel are forged together, much

folding

of the metal goes on during the process. You must flux with

something that

contains borax, or you can use the stuff at from store (20 Mule

Team Brand,

100% Borax) Some Fluxes are designed for gas forges or coal forges.
You make a billet out of several layers of steels, when

different

steels are layered, you get a layered effect in the finish product.

I

sometime add a layer of nickle or copper. Damascus is prized

because of the

patterned product that is created.
It's a lot of heat in the forge, hammering, fluxing,

folding and

repeat the process many times. There are added steps to get

different

patterns.
To do it, isn't that difficult, it's just time consuming

and right

equipment does get a little pricey, but lesser equipment will do,

just add

more time because of the equipment.

Hope this gets you excited to do knives and start building your

smithy.

Jerry
At 12:41 AM 11/29/2002 +0000, you wrote:

wow sounds cool, damascus how exactly do you make that, is it just

a

really high carbon steel? Somewher eI heard of watered steel or
something along those lines, not sure if it was real or no.
Supposedly really hard and holds an edge.

Sean

Sean,
Damascus steel, is bars of steel are forged together, much folding of the metal goes on during the process. You must flux with something that contains borax, or you can use the stuff at from store (20 Mule Team Brand, 100% Borax) Some Fluxes are designed for gas forges or coal forges.
You make a billet out of several layers of steels, when different steels are layered, you get a layered effect in the finish product. I sometime add a layer of nickle or copper. Damascus is prized because of the patterned product that is created.
It's a lot of heat in the forge, hammering, fluxing, folding and repeat the process many times. There are added steps to get different patterns.
To do it, isn't that difficult, it's just time consuming and right equipment does get a little pricey, but lesser equipment will do, just add more time because of the equipment.

Hope this gets you excited to do knives and start building your smithy.

Jerry

wow sounds cool, damascus how exactly do you make that, is it just a
really high carbon steel? Somewher eI heard of watered steel or
something along those lines, not sure if it was real or no.
Supposedly really hard and holds an edge.

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
The only thing I don't do is mine and refine the

steel/iron. I

have several heat treat ovens, have a working knowledge of heat

treating

and tempering.
My big sellers are hunting and fishing knives. Mine aren't

pretty,

but they are next to indestructible. I do make Damascus and other

specialty

steels for knife making.
I started making knives many years ago, I had a set of

files, a

Chinese made 5 inch vise, a hand drill, bunch of sand paper, lots

of sweat.

Making a knife is not that hard, it's depends on how much

pride

you put into it.

Jerry
At 05:26 PM 11/28/2002 +0000, you wrote:

Now you do all that hardening and quenching and thigns yourself?

Do

you make knives liek hunting knives or more tactical type things?
just curious, I am to poor to invent in knife making..

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
I am not going to say that anybody famous has one of my

knives,

but a few firefighters do carry them as crash knives. I spend

50 to

70

percent of my time making knives. The rest is for other things..
If you want a knife, I can make it, if want order one I

can make,

if you want to trade stuff for one, I can do that, if you want

to

trade for

the right materials I can do that. I have several prefinished

blades

looking for handles around.
Now if you want to learn how to make a knife, I can let

you know

the name of several good books.

Jerry

At 10:53 AM 11/28/2002 +0000, you wrote:

Thanks for replying Jerry, yeh knifemaking always intrested me,
though it was cool same with blacksmith. Do you jsut make

knifes

for

yourself or do you custom make them and people order or ask

which

ones they would like made?

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
I come from a different background, I am a

knifemaker

and

a

blacksmith. I use a 2 x 72 belt grinder, which is common in

the

knife

trade. Which I built both of the ones I have. I just got my

little

lathe

and done some neat things with it, but what I did was a

refinement

of

things I have done in the past. I also own a mill/drill and

have

made

jewelry, remade tools, found out what not to do with some

bits.

I have to order some of the accessory items for my

little

lathe,

because some of the things I want to do, needs another

chuck or

a

third

hand type device.

Oh, and congratulations on taking the plunge, it

took

me a

while also.

Jerry

At 05:16 AM 11/28/2002 +0000, you wrote:

I chose this one manly for price, but I have some thigns in

mind.

I

been reading alot of the pages that people make and am

amazed

at

the

stuff they design and build!! I actaully was planning on

doing

some

toolpost grinding after I make a proper holder... I

figured I

might

use my dremel with the flexible tool attachment, what other

things

cna I sue for a grinder?

Sean

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Sean,
The only thing I don't do is mine and refine the steel/iron. I
have several heat treat ovens, have a working knowledge of heat treating
and tempering.
My big sellers are hunting and fishing knives. Mine aren't pretty,
but they are next to indestructible. I do make Damascus and other specialty
steels for knife making.
I started making knives many years ago, I had a set of files, a
Chinese made 5 inch vise, a hand drill, bunch of sand paper, lots of sweat.
Making a knife is not that hard, it's depends on how much pride
you put into it.

Jerry

Now you do all that hardening and quenching and thigns yourself? Do
you make knives liek hunting knives or more tactical type things?
just curious, I am to poor to invent in knife making..

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
I am not going to say that anybody famous has one of my

knives,

but a few firefighters do carry them as crash knives. I spend 50 to

70

percent of my time making knives. The rest is for other things..
If you want a knife, I can make it, if want order one I

can make,

if you want to trade stuff for one, I can do that, if you want to

trade for

the right materials I can do that. I have several prefinished

blades

looking for handles around.
Now if you want to learn how to make a knife, I can let

you know

the name of several good books.

Jerry

At 10:53 AM 11/28/2002 +0000, you wrote:

Thanks for replying Jerry, yeh knifemaking always intrested me,
though it was cool same with blacksmith. Do you jsut make knifes

for

yourself or do you custom make them and people order or ask which
ones they would like made?

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
I come from a different background, I am a knifemaker

and

a

blacksmith. I use a 2 x 72 belt grinder, which is common in the

knife

trade. Which I built both of the ones I have. I just got my

little

lathe

and done some neat things with it, but what I did was a

refinement

of

things I have done in the past. I also own a mill/drill and have

made

jewelry, remade tools, found out what not to do with some bits.

I have to order some of the accessory items for my

little

lathe,

because some of the things I want to do, needs another chuck or

a

third

hand type device.

Oh, and congratulations on taking the plunge, it took

me a

while also.

Jerry

At 05:16 AM 11/28/2002 +0000, you wrote:

I chose this one manly for price, but I have some thigns in

mind.

I

been reading alot of the pages that people make and am amazed

at

the

stuff they design and build!! I actaully was planning on doing

some

toolpost grinding after I make a proper holder... I figured I

might

use my dremel with the flexible tool attachment, what other

things

cna I sue for a grinder?

Sean

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT

<

705063697:HM/A=1328027/R=0/*;4870030;7586
687;u?
ad=Yahoo01>12c7bba6.jpg

12c7bc64.jpg

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Sean,
I am not going to say that anybody famous has one of my knives,
but a few firefighters do carry them as crash knives. I spend 50 to 70
percent of my time making knives. The rest is for other things..
If you want a knife, I can make it, if want order one I can make,
if you want to trade stuff for one, I can do that, if you want to trade for
the right materials I can do that. I have several prefinished blades
looking for handles around.
Now if you want to learn how to make a knife, I can let you know
the name of several good books.

Jerry

Thanks for replying Jerry, yeh knifemaking always intrested me,
though it was cool same with blacksmith. Do you jsut make knifes for
yourself or do you custom make them and people order or ask which
ones they would like made?

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
I come from a different background, I am a knifemaker and

a

blacksmith. I use a 2 x 72 belt grinder, which is common in the

knife

trade. Which I built both of the ones I have. I just got my little

lathe

and done some neat things with it, but what I did was a refinement

of

things I have done in the past. I also own a mill/drill and have

made

jewelry, remade tools, found out what not to do with some bits.

I have to order some of the accessory items for my little

lathe,

because some of the things I want to do, needs another chuck or a

third

hand type device.

Oh, and congratulations on taking the plunge, it took me a

while also.

Jerry

At 05:16 AM 11/28/2002 +0000, you wrote:

I chose this one manly for price, but I have some thigns in mind.

I

been reading alot of the pages that people make and am amazed at

the

stuff they design and build!! I actaully was planning on doing

some

toolpost grinding after I make a proper holder... I figured I

might

use my dremel with the flexible tool attachment, what other things
cna I sue for a grinder?

Sean

Sean,
I come from a different background, I am a knifemaker and a blacksmith. I use a 2 x 72 belt grinder, which is common in the knife trade. Which I built both of the ones I have. I just got my little lathe and done some neat things with it, but what I did was a refinement of things I have done in the past. I also own a mill/drill and have made jewelry, remade tools, found out what not to do with some bits.

I have to order some of the accessory items for my little lathe, because some of the things I want to do, needs another chuck or a third hand type device.

Oh, and congratulations on taking the plunge, it took me a while also.

Jerry

I chose this one manly for price, but I have some thigns in mind. I
been reading alot of the pages that people make and am amazed at the
stuff they design and build!! I actaully was planning on doing some
toolpost grinding after I make a proper holder... I figured I might
use my dremel with the flexible tool attachment, what other things
cna I sue for a grinder?

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Paul W. Chamberlain" <pwc@c...> wrote:

Let's put it this way... you did not make a "bad" choice. All of

the 7x

series lathes are capable of the same work. Some just have more

included

features, but most of those can be added later if needed.

Even if you decide later that you did not make the "right" choice.
You'll have learned enough about these smaller lathes to know what

to

look for later. Many owners add lathes to their shop, I'm one. It

allows

leaving complex setups on one while having the other(s) for one-up

projects.

Also, if you ever get into toolpost grinding, you can do that on

the

most expendable lathe. The abrasive residue is not kind to a

lathe's

mating surfaces.

Paul, Central OR


Smurf707 wrote:

Well tonight I order one fo the homier type Lathes (7x12) off of

Ebay

for $299 since I am to poor to afford anything better, I barely
scrounged up enough. lol its my only christmas present and I had

to

pay half. Oh well, hope I made the right choice... I alreayd have
some toolbits and measuring equiptment that I use currently so the
bugg has Officially bit me.... did I make the right choice?

<snip>

Let's put it this way... you did not make a "bad" choice. All of the 7x series lathes are capable of the same work. Some just have more included features, but most of those can be added later if needed.

Even if you decide later that you did not make the "right" choice. You'll have learned enough about these smaller lathes to know what to look for later. Many owners add lathes to their shop, I'm one. It allows leaving complex setups on one while having the other(s) for one-up projects.

Also, if you ever get into toolpost grinding, you can do that on the most expendable lathe. The abrasive residue is not kind to a lathe's mating surfaces.

Paul, Central OR


Smurf707 wrote:

Well tonight I order one fo the homier type Lathes (7x12) off of Ebay
for $299 since I am to poor to afford anything better, I barely
scrounged up enough. lol its my only christmas present and I had to
pay half. Oh well, hope I made the right choice... I alreayd have
some toolbits and measuring equiptment that I use currently so the
bugg has Officially bit me.... did I make the right choice?

BTW, during my senior year in on of my machining classes my teacher
and a few other advanced students began building a tom thumb type
engine, it didn't really have a name. Some guy designed it, we
modified it to make it better but it has yet to be finished due to
time contraints, although most everything important is done, gas
tank, carb, and small stuff is all that is left. We also cut out own
gears which was a learning experience. Well sorry I wrote so much :)

I will get pics up when its finished, who knows how long...

Good Afternoon, Bob:
The taper is smaller toward the headstock. The lathe is not bolted down, but is sitting on a 1 1/2" workbench that is level. Am wondering if bolting the bed down will correct this tapering situation. I have cut several 1/2" steel rods; with the tailstock locked down, and unlocked, with the same results. I am considering trying to test the alignment of the head/tail assemblies using centers and a DTI. I certainly appreciate your time, and will advise of my findings shortly.
Best regards,
Nick
Bob Sunley <rosunley@...> wrote:Nick,
which way is it tapered, small end to the headstock or tailstock? If
your lathe is bolted down that can twist the bed and swpping parts
will not help.

Try loosening the bolts holding down the tailstock end and take
another cut. If it changes the bed was twisted by the bolts. Then
you shim it so when it is tightened down the cuts are true without a
taper.

Bob


On 27 Nov 2002, at 15:23, ntdefeo wrote:

Good Morning:

Finally received the new HS assembly from Homier, and carefully
swapped out the internals from the original. After installing
the "new" hs, and squaring it to the bed, I reinstalled the chuck,
and proceeded to chuck up a 1/2" 12L14 shaft to test the assembly.
Checking the hs/ts height, showed them to be in good alignment. Took
a .010" pass off the rod without holding the end in the ts, and even
taking a short cut 2" from the hs produced a taper. Am wondering if
the bed is twisted, or if I should just scrap this unit for a new
one. If anyone else has run across this situation, I would be
interested in hearing your thoughts/comments on correcting this
problem. Best regards, Nick

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Good Afternoon, Bob:
The taper is smaller toward the headstock. The lathe is not bolted down, but is sitting on a 1 1/2" workbench that is level. Am wondering if bolting the bed down will correct this tapering situation. I have cut several 1/2" steel rods; with the tailstock locked down, and unlocked, with the same results. I am considering trying to test the alignment of the head/tail assemblies using centers and a DTI. I certainly appreciate your time, and will advise of my findings shortly.
Best regards,
Nick
Bob Sunley <rosunley@...> wrote:Nick,
which way is it tapered, small end to the headstock or tailstock? If
your lathe is bolted down that can twist the bed and swpping parts
will not help.

Try loosening the bolts holding down the tailstock end and take
another cut. If it changes the bed was twisted by the bolts. Then
you shim it so when it is tightened down the cuts are true without a
taper.

Bob


On 27 Nov 2002, at 15:23, ntdefeo wrote:

Good Morning:

Finally received the new HS assembly from Homier, and carefully
swapped out the internals from the original. After installing
the "new" hs, and squaring it to the bed, I reinstalled the chuck,
and proceeded to chuck up a 1/2" 12L14 shaft to test the assembly.
Checking the hs/ts height, showed them to be in good alignment. Took
a .010" pass off the rod without holding the end in the ts, and even
taking a short cut 2" from the hs produced a taper. Am wondering if
the bed is twisted, or if I should just scrap this unit for a new
one. If anyone else has run across this situation, I would be
interested in hearing your thoughts/comments on correcting this
problem. Best regards, Nick

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It's all about the center hole: "T" means it's countersunk, "M" means
it's not.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

Smurf707 wrote:

From what I know, they are the same. Both are interchangeable with

each other pretty much, maybe 1 has a different coating?

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Brice D. Hornback" <bdh@c...> wrote:

LMS has several different types of turning tools that take the

indexable

inserts. My question is, what's the difference between these two

types of

inserts?

TCMM inserts
TCMT Inserts

Thanks,
Brice

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--

for spare parts i ring the machine mart parts line, pay by switch and take
delivery via post. always had good service and plenty of help
DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@...
l