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Thanks Jon, I don't think so because the two bearings are #30206 as per the drawing / BOM, please refer to the documents I sent with one or my first messages (2025 01 25).

PR Here is a last photo, Maybe you have a stack up of plastic spacers that are flexing under momentary instantaneous load?? They seem to be tight, but they might flex and return to their tight

PR, Here is another image, perhaps the change in size of the shaft is interfering with the tightening of the nut and the outer stack of gears and spacers and aligning shaft keys? Again, Good

PR, Here is another image

Hello PR, I found this image This photo of a shaft clearly shows a stepped section near the shaft bearing area of the spindle.? If yours has a similar area, you will not win easily. Did you

Gotcha. If it was me, I'd start with two things. First would be pulling the headstock apart and addressing the bearing adjustment problem. The inner race on the outer bearing needs to be able to slide

Ryan, I'm not speaking of alignment accuracy that would mainly lead to a machine a taper instead of a cylinder but of runout of the chuck that is currently resulting in an irregular

Not bothered about having flat spaces next to the tools, that’s what benches are for. They’ll be roughly the same height as my current benches so it’ll work out. There might be some depending

Thanks Roy I am cutting clock wheels for my private clocks. Even though the Carriger has a very tight fit when I cut wheels, I feel there are a little bit twist when I return the cutter for next

Yes! Either method works, The carriage wheel gives more rapid carriage movement, a leadscrew crank gives more precise movement. Adding a leadscrew crank is pretty easy & gives you the option of

1/100mm is about .0003". Over what distance are you trying to maintain that? Just curious as it shouldn't be a problem on shorter lengths with everything properly adjusted and aligned especially the

Question: Is lead screw a better tool to move the carriage correct in both direction than use the hand feed wheel? If so, I will make a crank on the right side of the leadscrew. (I am lazy, I do not

Hi Jon, Thank you for your reply. For your information, my lathe chuck is a 100mm (4"). As far as I know the bearings are of the tapered type but I didn't verify, just

Ryan, I agree with you and I'd like to add some comments. Concerning the use of tapered bearings, my lathe came with them and I didn't touch them until I decided to get rid off a

No, tapered bearings aren't sealed, see my other post, you'll see that I'm wondering how to ensure their maintenance. The gear side might be accessible for oiling when the nuts, the pulley

You're correct but the lathe was delivered with such bearings.

Roy, I already have tapered bearings but my problem is that they are mounted tight and I can't manage to reduce the clearance between them.

Hi John. Yep, my lathe is a two speed one and I have the LMS metal gears in it. To me the gears are pretty quiet. If I grab the chuck and rock it back and forth there's some gear clunk naturally but

Thanks Ryan for your experience and results report Is your lathe a 2-Speed and are you running metal 2-speed gears as well? How is the gear meshing noise? TKS, John

My tapered rollers have been in for 10 years. I haven't touched them in 3 1/2 years since I installed my els. I pulled the rear when I had the nuts off to install some parts for that and in the prior