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Thanks all for the the replies on an oiling solution. I may go with something like this https://www.mcmaster.com/1232K31/ Stan

Here is an online article for such a thing: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm30-one-shot-oiler-system.84976/ Larger mills commonly have this sort of thing where it is called "One Shot

I remember a magazine article within the past 10 years (I think?...heck if I remember) that was about adding an oiling system to the mini-mill so that all you had to do was give a pump or two and it

My lathe came without a hole. I thought that showed cheapness at its extreme. Anyway, I just drilled a hole in each one. A very small hole. Small enough that I think I risk little intrusion by swarf.

All ya need is a coat of oil on the shafts . A lot like the old lathes where the spindle ran in a coat of oil . There's also several articles on line on converting a small grease gun to dispense oil

If you go to "grizzly parts" and get to that page and enter g1006 for the model is has an exploded view and a parts list. https://www.grizzly.com/products/g1006/parts They have a replacement

It is pretty common for powerfeed to replace one of the table cranks. I have a Clausing mill of a similar size and same thing, left handle replaced by powerfeed. Agree I can see where a second handle

Using a handle on left or right of the table is pretty much a matter of convenience. Are you left or right handed, and where do you like to stand when using the mill?? Big mills have two to minimize

I used to use grease in mine, too -- until I added a hand crank to my lead screw.? I couldn't figure out WHY the LS was relatively difficult to turn, until I replaced the grease with oil.?

You can buy a grease gun that takes oil. I have made a manifold oiler. I used 1/8" copper tubing solder in a mill block for oil .? Use a pipe cleaner down to meter out the after filling milled oil

Mike - I don't use oil - I inject white lithium based grease in the brackets. ralphie

Old steel or alloys (AlNiCo for example) magnets used on car, bike or telephone magnetos, galvanometers, ... were easily losing their field strength when decoupled from their armatures or

After doing a little more research this is probably a G1007 mill/drill that had the power feed on the left end. The hand crank is not required at both ends.

You might try contacting Grizzly to see if they have the part and what it is for. Even though the mill is discontinued they may have some useful information. If you can't find the part could you make

Someone sent me this excellent article on how to disassemble and move one of these mills. (The rest of the stiff in hood website is interesting

The oil cup is good if you can fit it.? The problem with zerks, as mentioned, is that fine metal particles will collect where the ball meets the body so every time you push some lube in you're also

Yes.? Using a "wick" will usually work out fine if only a scant amount of oil is needed to get the job done.? It is my guess that the clearances involved in the parts, in general, on these things

Drill a hole and push a piece of felt into it.? It will keep the swarf out, but still allow oil through. Mike

I think most people just drill them for push-in button oilers, so it would depend on the size of the oilers. Could just drill a hole and oil through there, but that leaves the possibility of

The lead screw brackets on my mini lathe do not have oil holes. Anyone know what size they should be? Stan