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Re: White lead for centers and chucks
OldToolmaker Jan 20? ? Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won¡¯t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work I alway lub chucks? Some took oil others use grease.? I do use WD-40 because of tight tolerances on small chucks.? After lubrication of chuck I put shield down on the chuch and turn lathe on high speed for minute to remove any extra lubrication so does not get on me.? You never want metal to metal on a new or old lathe. The lub has film between the metals keep the lathe new for long time. Dave? |
Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading
I do single point threading because I do not have a tap or die.?
I use HHS because I can adjust the cutter for type steel . Carbide is great for production work. They be quickly charged and has a nice form but have buy the carbon you need to buy for metal and thread. The fun of single point after 15 year was gone too.? Dave? |
Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading
I do single point threading because it produces a very clean and nice looking thread. That is if it is done with a nice sharp tool. I particularly like nice sharp HSS tools. Carbide is never as sharp as HSS. Carbide tools do not have an edge as sharp asHSS and also take more horsepower.
Dick |
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
Avoid using any oil or grease on any chuck. Keep them clean inside and out and you won¡¯t have any issues. Oil and grease attract and hold chips. Frequent cleaning is the key. One product that could be useful is WD40 dry silicone in an aerosol spray. Although I have not tried it with chucks. It works great on hinges and such so it might work.
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File /2) Lubrication Oil and Grease/1 sds-Insted-A-Led.pdf uploaded
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The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. By: davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> Description: |
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý??? ??? Just about anything is cleaner that antiseize unless ya
like the tin man look On 1/20/24 7:33 AM, davesmith1800
wrote:
?I first started using oil and grease later antiseize.? |
Re: White lead for centers and chucks
Having messed around with molybdenum disulfide I agree that it stains the skin and is inherently very dark colored.? If that grease doesn't look very dark It may have a different kind of dry lubricant in it.? One that comes to mind is hexagonal boron nitride.? Like carbon, boron nitride can have different crystalline forms.? Diamond is hard but graphite isn't.? Cubic boron ntride (CBN) is very hard but hexagonal BN is soft enough that it's used as a dry lubricant:??,? It's white in color.
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Re: White lead for centers and chucks
?I first started using oil and grease later antiseize.?
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I want to try white lead to see how work and found EEZ lead substitute. It work great.? It is cleaner than antiseize too.? Dave? Paul Fox 6:08am? ? It's a grease substitute? |
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davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> added folder /2) Lubrication Oil and Grease The following files and folders have been updated in the Files area of the [email protected] group. By: davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> Description: |
Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading
This a trick works some times
Engaging the haft nuts? If lead screw is 16 tpi then can Engage with 16 toi , 32 tpi and 48 tpi without the thread dial. A 1.5tpm lead screw? you can engage without a thread dial 1.5 and .75 A 2 TPM lead screw can be engage without a dial 2, 1 and .5. This works great on lathes with 4TPI lead screw. 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 30, 32, 36 and 40 tpi.? Lathe I used for 30 years had a 4TPI. Almost never had to use a thread dial.?? Dave? |
Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading
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I've had the bars, 10mm internal and 10mm external and their inserts for a few (or several) years, and had to look around a bit.? ?Nothing on the packaging. |
Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading
I've had the bars, 10mm internal and 10mm external and their inserts for a few (or several) years, and had to look around a bit.? ?Nothing on the packaging.
Found the chart below on amazon.? ?I have the 11ER-A60 and 11IR-A60 inserts - 16 to 48 tpi. -- Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA |
Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý??? For me it's much easier to see whats going on when running out of the hole with the cutter on the back side of the hole upside down . SO what is the insert yer using ? What is the range of threads it can cut ? ??? ??? thanks ??? ??? animal On 1/19/24 10:34 AM, Craig Hopewell via
groups.io wrote:
Yes, running out the the hole is an excellent technique.? ?Useful to an external thread to a shoulder also, but the blind hole under power .... really necessary. |
Re: Why I Do Single-Point Threading
Chris Albertson
On Jan 19, 2024, at 5:30?AM, Craig Hopewell via groups.io <cch80124@...> wrote: If you are working on parts for antique machines, then yes they used all kinds of add threads and you¡¯d never be able to find taps and dies for them all. But any new parts are likely to be metric and there are so few standard metric sizes you could own every die. |