Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
A good grease works best .
Some will try WD40 but comes off then rust.?
To bad you do not live close a box my mini lathe came in .?
|
Re: Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
You are over thinking the problem. ? Do not disassemble anything. ?Jst lock the parts so they don’t move.
Spay the machine down with some kind of protective oil. ?WD40 is actual made for this but has a short lifespan. ?Place a XL size moisure absorber on the lathe and wrape it in a plastic bag.
Next get a large cardboard box 4” larger then lathe. ?Place closed cell foam packing sheet one 5 sides of box and then drop the lath in
Fill the remaining space in the box with packing material. ?The absolute best material is spary foam. ?But a garbage bag in the box and foam in the bag, then shut the box. ?The foam will expand to fill the space. ?The garbage bag will make a nice skin for the foam block and keep it from sticking to anything.
Tape the box with some bands of strapping tape in a few different direction
Yes the Pelican box is better thn cardboard but a box that size costs half as much as a mini lath.
Key points are (1) moisture absorber inside sealed plastic bag and (2) internal packing strong enough to prevent the machine from moving inside the box. and (3) full thickness dense foam sheet on all sides of box.
I have shipp MUCH larger machines. ?The biggest was a industrial-sized radial arm saw made by Rockwell (now Delta) for that we bolted the machine to a forklift pallet with four large bolts and washers. ?Then the pallet and machine were wrapped in 20+ layers of shrink wrap. ?That was it. ? The 1,000 pound machine was previously used for cutting railroad ties into landscape products. ?It made it’s 3,000 mile trip just fine. ? ?That would work for a mini lathe but shipping pallets costs more then shipping a box. ?Because you can’t stack pallets in a truck. ?A band saw and shaper table were shipped the same way. ?
Basically spray foam is magic. ?You can roll a box with foam packed machine down a stairway and nothing will happen
The Pelican cases are good too. ? I did a video shoot for a white water rafting company years ago. ?Me and a buddy took a load of gear down river in a canoe. ahead of the rafts. ?We tipped over the canoe in a rapid and the equipment got the washing machine treatment over rocks and white water. ? We waited for the calm water below and collected it all and set up the tripod and stuff and waited. ?Everything was packed is custom foam in the cases. ? ?But those cases cost about $1,000.
I happen to live close to the Pelican factory and have been in there a few times to. make good on their lifetime warranty., wheels and handles broke a few times but that was after serious abuse.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 13, 2023, at 6:43?AM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
Hypothetically, let's say you were relocating to another country and wanted to take your 7x12 lathe with you. ?
Destination country is rather humid and prior to shipping the lathe will be in a storage unit for 6-12 months in a hot/humid state like FL
Can't use wood for packaging (well, you can, but it's complicated).? I'm assuming at least a partial disassembly would be prudent so no machined surfaces slap together. ?
How would you approach this?? How far would you disassemble both for protection and because Customs agents are going to want to inspect for contraband?? How would you deal with potential humidity issues, especially considering the packaging will likely be opened at least once? ?
I'm thinking one of those large plastic cases used for things like camera equipment with some of that kaizen foam.? Probably some dessicant packs and maybe a thin layer of grease or Balistoil on all the bare steel surfaces.? Was also thinking of keeping most of the major assemblies intact - separately pack the compound, cradle, tailstock, headstock, leadscrew, motor and electronics within the same large case.? Or would it be best to almost completely disassemble? ?
I bought mine two decades ago and I don't remember how it came from the factory.
|
Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
That is good to know.?
Thank you
A good deep Grove ball bearing with seals will last a long time. I do not know what mind has probably shield a sorter life than seal.
Tapered roller bearings are pain to upgrade.? They do make on tapered roller bearing that has built in seal a little easier.??
My last lathe was fully tool south bend.?
This is first mini lathe so all new to me.?
Dave?
|
Storing and shipping a mini-lathe
Hypothetically, let's say you were relocating to another country and wanted to take your 7x12 lathe with you.
?
Destination country is rather humid and prior to shipping the lathe will be in a storage unit for 6-12 months in a hot/humid state like FL
Can't use wood for packaging (well, you can, but it's complicated).? I'm assuming at least a partial disassembly would be prudent so no machined surfaces slap together.
?
How would you approach this?? How far would you disassemble both for protection and because Customs agents are going to want to inspect for contraband?? How would you deal with potential humidity issues, especially considering the packaging will likely be opened at least once?
?
I'm thinking one of those large plastic cases used for things like camera equipment with some of that kaizen foam.? Probably some dessicant packs and maybe a thin layer of grease or Balistoil on all the bare steel surfaces.? Was also thinking of keeping most of the major assemblies intact - separately pack the compound, cradle, tailstock, headstock, leadscrew, motor and electronics within the same large case.? Or would it be best to almost completely disassemble?
?
I bought mine two decades ago and I don't remember how it came from the factory.
|
Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
ALL mini-lathes have ball bearings on the spindle.? ?The tapered roller bearings are an upgrade.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
|
Rudolph may had a very bad day
Remember to till the kids it is steak? . 
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
Back before 1900 they used Lard?
Then they found cooking sulfur,? mineral oil and lard work great. Later they add kerosene and we still use that today.?
It also help keeps the bugs and mice away.?
Dave?
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
?
thinking Low Sulfur, nice, wish they sold quarts In a message dated 12/12/2023 3:02:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, acoe@... writes:
?
?
I also use that - both on the lathe and on the drill press.
?
On Tuesday, December 12, 2023 at 10:59:56 AM PST, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
?
?
This what I use?
I like dark cutting oil ? but wife does not like the smell.? So this works and low cost
|
I don't watch TV , Basketball & that's it , I watch youtubes at nite . SO this is the same guy that brought us the burnisher . I've been goin through a bunch of his videos . He has a lot of pretty neato ideas , if ya have some spare time spend some time lookin at some of his vid's .
animal
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
I first start with using a lot of cutting oil.
But in welding you clean off the oil before welding. So in my shop oil was band from drilling.?
When work on machine shops I used oil.
Cleaning was not my problem.?
Today I use oil very rarely on drilling as have clean up the mess?
Dave?
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
I also use that - both on the lathe and on the drill press.
On Tuesday, December 12, 2023 at 10:59:56 AM PST, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
This what I use?
I like dark cutting oil ? but wife does not like the smell.? So this works and low cost
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-Gal-Nu-Clear-Pipe-Threading-Oil-Low-Odor-Anti-Mist-Formulation-for-Pipe-Cutting-Dies-Threading-70835/202826988
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
Either dry or with clear cutting oil.
Like using dark oil for tapping and threading steel water pipe . But my wife does not like the smell so have small can of dark for that day.
Clear work great most machine work.
A36 is where I think of using dark?
Dave
|
Re: Cutting oil what do you use?
I will pick up a jug and give it a try. When you are really desperate and what you are cutting tears the surface (soft steel or copper) try using olive oil or castor oil brushed on.? Bill in Boulder
On Tue, Dec 12, 2023 at 11:59?AM davesmith1800 < davesmith1@...> wrote: This what I use?
I like dark cutting oil ? but wife does not like the smell.? So this works and low cost
|
Cutting oil what do you use?
This what I use?
I like dark cutting oil ? but wife does not like the smell.? So this works and low cost
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-Gal-Nu-Clear-Pipe-Threading-Oil-Low-Odor-Anti-Mist-Formulation-for-Pipe-Cutting-Dies-Threading-70835/202826988
|
The lowest cost and most produced is the 6203 . I used where a 6201 or 6202 could been used but cheaper to use the larger bearing.?
The next bearing I used 6205 . So only had to? stock two sizes. I also had 6206 and 6207 for a few jobs? After I would order as need?
Dave?
|
Re: What projects are you doing?
Like the power feed.?
I have DC motor sitting desk after finished othe parts of lathe .?
What ratio from top to bottom speed?
Or top RPM to low RPM?
Dave?
|
Re: What projects are you doing?
Your next step is to use the motor for threading. ?You already have ddido 90% of the work.
Then you think “that was not so hard”, ?and add a smaller motor to the cross slide and have a full CNC lath and can then make complex parts that are impossible by hand. ?I actually saw someone “turn” a hex-shaped bolt head on a lathe. ?He moved the cross slide in and out 8 times for each spindle evolution and made a bolt-head with a single-point tool. ? ?This is only good as a stunt. ? A better use-case is to turn ACME threads, balls, or tapers
I did this for a Harbor Freight mini mill, It isn't hard at all to adapt stepper motors to all three axes. ? I planned to use the first-generation conversion to make a better quality 2nd get but it already works well enough
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 12, 2023, at 9:39?AM, Colin Spencer <colinsp@...> wrote:
I have just finished added a stepper motor to my leadscrew to get nice even passes. Just tried it on a bit of scrap and it worked well. A 240v to 24v psu, a stepper controller, a Nema 23 stepper motor and speed controller a couple of pulleys and a drive belt. A Machined adapter for the leadscrew and a 3D printed case for the speed controller. -- Colin Spencer
Attachments:
|
I’m working on a project that will use 60 sealed ball-bearing units. ?It's very early in the design and I’ll likely change the size of several of them and have to buy more. ?I always buy about 10 at a time, make prototypes, and then change the design after testing. ? I say this just to explain why I’m buying dozens of bearings as a hobbyist.
Amazon is not a bad place to buy small bearings. ?I pay roughly $1 each for miniature bearings of different types if I buy 10 at a time and they usually ship for free overnight or the next day. ? Not bad to have 10 units show up the next morning for $10 delivered. ?I wonder how they can pay for the delivery truck.
For larger, more expensive bearings AliExpress is good. ?For example, the 6205 bearing is $22 per 10 units or $2.20 each for 25 x 52 x 15 size with free 11-day shipping from China. ? ?The Chinese. sellers work in a multi-tier system where maybe some single mom with a toddler is selling 10-packs or ball bearing and children's socks and gets her supply for a middleman who delivers bulk to her apartment. and does the photos and English language descriptions. ? ?They have large informal supply networks there. ? The other thing they have in China is VERY low postage rates and all countries accept each other postage. ?So we get nearly free or free shipping from China Post.?
It makes a huge difference if you are designing and building stuff or if you are repairing some existing equipment. ? For repair, usually, you need just one of a very specific size. ?You may as well go to McMaster Carr and pay their $15 price. ?But if you are designing, you can look up the price and specs of the bearings and choose the size that reduces the cost. ? ? I do this and many times find that by getting a size only 1 mm different I can reduce the cost by half. ? I think because some sizes are very common.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 12, 2023, at 8:28?AM, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
FYI If buying the 6206 as a manufacturer it cost $1.10 each. Try buying that bearing at the retailer leave.?
I think the other number for ball bearing is 80206 it same bearing.
I would buy as a manufacturer thousands of bearing each year.?
The cost of a? seal 6203 was $0.53 each in class 3 or greater
A 6205 was $0.65 each.
I want to buy class 8 the manufacturer said they just test bearings and charge for testing.?
I have life time supply of a few sizes? I use for my projects. But had go buy at retail they see you coming.??
[b] please post your experiences with ball bearing and othres[/b]?
?
Dave
|
Re: What projects are you doing?
I have just finished added a stepper motor to my leadscrew to get nice even passes. Just tried it on a bit of scrap and it worked well. A 240v to 24v psu, a stepper controller, a Nema 23 stepper motor and speed controller a couple of pulleys and a drive belt. A Machined adapter for the leadscrew and a 3D printed case for the speed controller.  -- Colin Spencer
|
FYI If buying the 6206 as a manufacturer it cost $1.10 each. Try buying that bearing at the retailer leave.?
I think the other number for ball bearing is 80206 it same bearing.
I would buy as a manufacturer thousands of bearing each year.?
The cost of a? seal 6203 was $0.53 each in class 3 or greater
A 6205 was $0.65 each.
I want to buy class 8 the manufacturer said they just test bearings and charge for testing.?
I have life time supply of a few sizes? I use for my projects. But had go buy at retail they see you coming.??
[b] please post your experiences with ball bearing and othres[/b]?
?
Dave
|
davesmith1800
chrisser
Colin Spencer