based on some of the questions from the last vid . Here's what happens when the ball is made to spin/roll in only one direction .
animal
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It's also pretty expensive , based on last time I wanted to buy
some .
animal
On 12/11/23 7:08 AM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Just a minor correction in
case anyone wants to look for it.? It is "Leadloy", not
"Leadolly."? More officially, the alloy is 12L14.
It is a very free machining
steel alloy (as in "try it, you'll like it") and used in
making a lot of automatic screw machine parts.? I don't know
if that is still true today as something else might be being
used now.? I didn't research that aspect.
Yes, it contains lead.? You
should do your own homework, but it has been my understanding
that for regular machining there is no particular hazard.? For
welding, I think there is risk.? And probably also for
grinding.? I look at this like the risk of beryllium.? It is
very hazardous by itself but alloyed with copper
(beryllium-copper) normal machining is safe and many hand
tools are even made of it since it won't produce sparks.? Good
for use around things like thermite or explosives.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, December 11, 2023 at 04:38:49 AM PST, Charles
Devore via groups.io <claremont5@...>
wrote:
Burnishing
has it's place, doesn't remove material, but looks
nice, we always used fluid, I suspect that
material is "free machining" type and since it is
asia is most likely "leadolly"(no longer used much
here=epa), if a really nice bearing surface is
needed, just rough it around .004 oversize and
then run the parts thru a centerless grinder
"plunge cutting each one it goes pretty quick
In a message dated 12/10/2023 11:11:14 PM Pacific
Standard Time, d.i.williams@...
writes:
?
Dear Mr Animal,
May I ask some related questions for the group
to ponder?
Firstly, — Thank you very much (Mr Animal) for
posting this? - I found it very interesting and
the style of the video was both very sharp &
polished. (Pun intended)
(I looked at the chuck and thought - this looks
like a rather large chuck on a 7 x X lathe?.)
1. Seriously, is this an industry standard
practice for polishing metals in a lathe?
2. A tongue in cheek question…… As a matter of
interest, if you had a similar large tool held
in a milling machine and run using very close
passes over the surface, would it (sort of)
polish a flat piece of work? I realise it would
not have quite the same effect as the work is
not spinning. But the tool is. (Unless it was on
a rotary table and you were turning it very very
fast.?) Perhaps run in two passes at 90deg. to
each other. Producing a sort of diamond effect?
Does anyone have any knowledge?
3. Would you get a sort of similar(?) effect
using a small(?) spherical shaped ball bearing
held in a holder on a (mini) lathe?
Thank you all, in anticipation.
All in all, very interesting. Thank you. Just
the harden steel ball doing the polishing.
David UK.
> On 11 Dec 2023, at 04:31, mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> Watched this a few nites back , pretty cool
>
> animal
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: $1000 Budget: Which 7 x 14 to buy?
How is the hunting going?
Dave
FYI?
I just got a mini lathe in November for under $600.00 metric/inch . Had to purchase steady rest $75? and 4 jaw $75 and back plate $38.? Note buy good tool post too
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Re: What projects are you doing?
This weekend I curbside-picked a nice sturdy rolling wardrobe rack that had a missing threaded insert for one of the bottom wheels ( quite nice 4” casters with locks, so if nothing else, hey free casters!) looks like a fairly quick job of turning some stock down to fit the ID and drill and tap the hole for the caster threads. We are currently using an old-beat up drying rack for this so the Mrs will be happy to get something better suited…if we can find room for it, as it’s fairly large.
On Dec 10, 2023, at 10:11 AM, Ryan H via groups.io <ifly172@...> wrote:
Nothing major here currently. Last project was making some inserts for dining room chairs. They're threaded 9/16 x 16 on the outside and 3/8 x 24 on the inside. Neither are common in the real world anymore and weren't easily available. Single pointed the outside and tapped the inside.?
On Dec 10, 2023 at 10:50?AM -0500, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...>, wrote:
Right now I my projects is setting up my lathe .? Now what is next?
Dave?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Re: What projects are you doing?
There a few drawings on internet fof beginners.?
It basically has projects that are steps. With basic turning, then tapping and last is a hammer using a 4 jaw chuck. All made on the lathe no mill/drill. The drawings was made for schools.?
Dave
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Copper-Beryllium are very useful tools as they are totally non-magnetic.? We used them in the assembly of the single focusing mass spectrometers on the NASA Skylab and double focusing instruments on the Viking programs in the 1960s and 1970s.
ralphie
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I have use a lot of 12L14 the name is a pld brand name.?
It is one easiest to cut steel great for mini lathes use.? I used in screw machines and 1144.?
The draw backs is can be hard to weld, soft and can not be used around food production.?
My self I use 12L14, 1144, A36 and O1/W1 tool steel .
Dave?
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standing corrected(S)
In a message dated 12/11/2023 7:08:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, ckinzer@... writes:
?
?
Just a minor correction in case anyone wants to look for it.? It is "Leadloy", not "Leadolly."? More officially, the alloy is 12L14.
?
It is a very free machining steel alloy (as in "try it, you'll like it") and used in making a lot of automatic screw machine parts.? I don't know if that is still true today as something else might be being used now.? I didn't research that aspect.
?
Yes, it contains lead.? You should do your own homework, but it has been my understanding that for regular machining there is no particular hazard.? For welding, I think there is risk.? And probably also for grinding.? I look at this like the risk of beryllium.? It is very hazardous by itself but alloyed with copper (beryllium-copper) normal machining is safe and many hand tools are even made of it since it won't produce sparks.? Good for use around things like thermite or explosives.
?
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
?
On Monday, December 11, 2023 at 04:38:49 AM PST, Charles Devore via groups.io <claremont5@...> wrote:
?
?
Burnishing has it's place, doesn't remove material, but looks nice, we always used fluid, I suspect that material is "free machining" type and since it is asia is most likely "leadolly"(no longer used much here=epa), if a really nice bearing surface is needed, just rough it around .004 oversize and then run the parts thru a centerless grinder "plunge cutting each one it goes pretty quick
In a message dated 12/10/2023 11:11:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, d.i.williams@... writes:
?
Dear Mr Animal, May I ask some related questions for the group to ponder? Firstly, — Thank you very much (Mr Animal) for posting this? - I found it very interesting and the style of the video was both very sharp & polished. (Pun intended) (I looked at the chuck and thought - this looks like a rather large chuck on a 7 x X lathe?.) 1. Seriously, is this an industry standard practice for polishing metals in a lathe? 2. A tongue in cheek question…… As a matter of interest, if you had a similar large tool held in a milling machine and run using very close passes over the surface, would it (sort of) polish a flat piece of work? I realise it would not have quite the same effect as the work is not spinning. But the tool is. (Unless it was on a rotary table and you were turning it very very fast.?) Perhaps run in two passes at 90deg. to each other. Producing a sort of diamond effect? Does anyone have any knowledge? 3. Would you get a sort of similar(?) effect using a small(?) spherical shaped ball bearing held in a holder on a (mini) lathe? Thank you all, in anticipation. All in all, very interesting. Thank you. Just the harden steel ball doing the polishing. David UK. > On 11 Dec 2023, at 04:31, mike allen < animal@...> wrote: > > > > Watched this a few nites back , pretty cool > > animal > > > > > >
|
Just a minor correction in case anyone wants to look for it.? It is "Leadloy", not "Leadolly."? More officially, the alloy is 12L14.
It is a very free machining steel alloy (as in "try it, you'll like it") and used in making a lot of automatic screw machine parts.? I don't know if that is still true today as something else might be being used now.? I didn't research that aspect.
Yes, it contains lead.? You should do your own homework, but it has been my understanding that for regular machining there is no particular hazard.? For welding, I think there is risk.? And probably also for grinding.? I look at this like the risk of beryllium.? It is very hazardous by itself but alloyed with copper (beryllium-copper) normal machining is safe and many hand tools are even made of it since it won't produce sparks.? Good for use around things like thermite or explosives.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, December 11, 2023 at 04:38:49 AM PST, Charles Devore via groups.io <claremont5@...> wrote:
Burnishing has it's place, doesn't remove material, but looks nice, we always used fluid, I suspect that material is "free machining" type and since it is asia is most likely "leadolly"(no longer used much here=epa), if a really nice bearing surface is needed, just rough it around .004 oversize and then run the parts thru a centerless grinder "plunge cutting each one it goes pretty quick
In a message dated 12/10/2023 11:11:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, d.i.williams@... writes:
?
Dear Mr Animal, May I ask some related questions for the group to ponder? Firstly, — Thank you very much (Mr Animal) for posting this? - I found it very interesting and the style of the video was both very sharp & polished. (Pun intended) (I looked at the chuck and thought - this looks like a rather large chuck on a 7 x X lathe?.) 1. Seriously, is this an industry standard practice for polishing metals in a lathe? 2. A tongue in cheek question…… As a matter of interest, if you had a similar large tool held in a milling machine and run using very close passes over the surface, would it (sort of) polish a flat piece of work? I realise it would not have quite the same effect as the work is not spinning. But the tool is. (Unless it was on a rotary table and you were turning it very very fast.?) Perhaps run in two passes at 90deg. to each other. Producing a sort of diamond effect? Does anyone have any knowledge? 3. Would you get a sort of similar(?) effect using a small(?) spherical shaped ball bearing held in a holder on a (mini) lathe? Thank you all, in anticipation. All in all, very interesting. Thank you. Just the harden steel ball doing the polishing. David UK. > On 11 Dec 2023, at 04:31, mike allen < animal@...> wrote: > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mB_C8VdZ0r0 > > Watched this a few nites back , pretty cool > > animal > > > > > >
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Re: 7x16 Spindle to Tailstock Alignment Test Outcome
If I put the test bar MT3 in the spindle loosely, put the liver center tip in on the tailstock loosely, then seat them by sharply pushing in the tailstock while turning slowly, the system aligns to 0.0015” max deviation over 8” - better!
The headstock alone appears a culprit, with up to 0.008” deviation when mounted in the spindle alone (several times). That would be worth some bolt adjustment and shimming, as recommended. I gave the ways and headstock surfaces a good wipe down before reassembly.
I scraped some paint off both the ways and headstock contact surfaces - I dunno if the factory adjusts for true after assembly or if my machine was even farther off before I cleaned it up.
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Burnishing has it's place, doesn't remove material, but looks nice, we always used fluid, I suspect that material is "free machining" type and since it is asia is most likely "leadolly"(no longer used much here=epa), if a really nice bearing surface is needed, just rough it around .004 oversize and then run the parts thru a centerless grinder "plunge cutting each one it goes pretty quick
In a message dated 12/10/2023 11:11:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, d.i.williams@... writes:
?
Dear Mr Animal, May I ask some related questions for the group to ponder? Firstly, — Thank you very much (Mr Animal) for posting this? - I found it very interesting and the style of the video was both very sharp & polished. (Pun intended) (I looked at the chuck and thought - this looks like a rather large chuck on a 7 x X lathe?.) 1. Seriously, is this an industry standard practice for polishing metals in a lathe? 2. A tongue in cheek question…… As a matter of interest, if you had a similar large tool held in a milling machine and run using very close passes over the surface, would it (sort of) polish a flat piece of work? I realise it would not have quite the same effect as the work is not spinning. But the tool is. (Unless it was on a rotary table and you were turning it very very fast.?) Perhaps run in two passes at 90deg. to each other. Producing a sort of diamond effect? Does anyone have any knowledge? 3. Would you get a sort of similar(?) effect using a small(?) spherical shaped ball bearing held in a holder on a (mini) lathe? Thank you all, in anticipation. All in all, very interesting. Thank you. Just the harden steel ball doing the polishing. David UK. > On 11 Dec 2023, at 04:31, mike allen < animal@...> wrote: > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mB_C8VdZ0r0 > > Watched this a few nites back , pretty cool > > animal > > > > > >
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Re: What projects are you doing?
That's what I normally do. But as a lathe operator I feel I should know and be able to do the basics.?
george
On Sunday, December 10, 2023 at 07:07:36 PM PST, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...> wrote:
On Dec 10, 2023, at 4:20?PM, gcvisalia@... wrote:
And I'm still trying to learn how to turn threads !
99% of the time you would use a die to cut thread. ?If that does not work, redesign the part.
Generally, you turn the metal down to the major thread diameter, then use a die.
Building a timing belt pulley is easy too. ?Say the?pulley is 32 mm in diameter. ?Then print one in plastic that has a 24 mm hole in the?center. Use the lathe and boring bar to trure the printed hole. ?Make a 24mm metal disk and epoxy the metal hub into the ring of teeth. ?Plastic gear hubs don’t last long but plastic groves do. ??
The idea is to make it easy, ?They call it “designing for?manufacturability”. If you know that you only have a mini lath and a semi-skilled operator (me) then don’t design parts that require high?tolerances.
|
Dear Mr Animal,
May I ask some related questions for the group to ponder?
Firstly, — Thank you very much (Mr Animal) for posting this - I found it very interesting and the style of the video was both very sharp & polished. (Pun intended)
(I looked at the chuck and thought - this looks like a rather large chuck on a 7 x X lathe?.)
1. Seriously, is this an industry standard practice for polishing metals in a lathe?
2. A tongue in cheek question…… As a matter of interest, if you had a similar large tool held in a milling machine and run using very close passes over the surface, would it (sort of) polish a flat piece of work? I realise it would not have quite the same effect as the work is not spinning. But the tool is. (Unless it was on a rotary table and you were turning it very very fast.?) Perhaps run in two passes at 90deg. to each other. Producing a sort of diamond effect? Does anyone have any knowledge?
3. Would you get a sort of similar(?) effect using a small(?) spherical shaped ball bearing held in a holder on a (mini) lathe?
Thank you all, in anticipation.
All in all, very interesting. Thank you. Just the harden steel ball doing the polishing.
David UK.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 11 Dec 2023, at 04:31, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?
Watched this a few nites back , pretty cool
animal
|
Watched this a few nites back , pretty cool
animal
|
Re: What projects are you doing?
On Dec 10, 2023, at 4:20?PM, gcvisalia@... wrote:
And I'm still trying to learn how to turn threads !
99% of the time you would use a die to cut thread. ?If that does not work, redesign the part.
Generally, you turn the metal down to the major thread diameter, then use a die.
Building a timing belt pulley is easy too. ?Say the?pulley is 32 mm in diameter. ?Then print one in plastic that has a 24 mm hole in the?center. Use the lathe and boring bar to trure the printed hole. ?Make a 24mm metal disk and epoxy the metal hub into the ring of teeth. ?Plastic gear hubs don’t last long but plastic groves do. ??
The idea is to make it easy, ?They call it “designing for?manufacturability”. If you know that you only have a mini lath and a semi-skilled operator (me) then don’t design parts that require high?tolerances.
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Re: What projects are you doing?
I may make hand crank.
My next project is installing a good Aloris AXA tool post on the lathe.?
DC power feed
South bend tapper attachment?
After that is a follower rest.
Then will be low speed tapping.?
Dave?
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Re: What projects are you doing?
Consider a hand crank for the spindle. Using one lets you apply a lot more torque at low speed & takes the excitement out of tapping on the lathe. There are a bunch of designs, using different approaches to making an expanding piece that fits inside the spindle.
Roy
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Re: What projects are you doing?
I made some replacement blade guide brackets for my 4x6 HF bandsaw.? The OEM ones didn't permit enough adjustment range to get the blade vertically aligned, without pushing the blade around a lot.? That caused other problems, like bizarre interactions between blade tension and blade tracking on the wheels. So I made replacement brackets.? As part of that I had to drill and tap an 8mm hole on the end of a 7 inch-long aluminum bar, which was too tall for my benchtop mill once the drill chuck was installed.? The thought occurred to me that I could use my lathe if I could hold that piece on the carriage.? I initially thought about making my own replacement compound with T slots, but then I discovered that LMS sells that very thing, for a very reasonable price.? So I bought it.? And it worked out great.? Here's a photo showing the piece being tapped:  My lathe didn't have enough power to fully tap the hole so once I got the tap started I moved everything to my vise and used a tap wrench to finish it up.? I used a couple of hold downs from my mill hold down kit and some 8mm T nuts + 6mm all-thread to clamp the bar in place.? I aligned it using a machinists square. For this job I didn't bother installing the feed screw, I just tightened down the gib screws to hold the compound securely in place.? It's rotated 90 degrees, so the photo shows the hole for the feed screw in the lower right corner of the photo. BTW the replacement blade guide brackets worked out very well.? I can get the proper blade twist with little to no sideways displacement.? The bandsaw cuts pretty darned straight now.
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Re: What projects are you doing?
What are ya usin for scales with the Touch DRO ?
thanks
animal
On 12/10/23 3:49 PM, CBJessee-N4SRN
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Doing a Hemingway Kits Machinist’s Hammer and Gray Kits
Machinist’s Clamps as learning projects. I’ll also step through
some TouchDRO videos on using the app while machining on the lathe
to learn the new DRO I’ve installed. It worked out pretty good
with only 0.0002” difference between my indicator and the DRO over
a 6in 2-3-6 block.
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davesmith1800
Ralph Lehotsky
Johannes