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Our local club, "Colorado Model Engineering Society", took a tour there
last year. An N/C lath and three N/C mills all set up to crank out stuff.
Rene' Tsai is the owner and a very nice person. Also had some design
software to die for; or at least pay thousands. At least some of the
listmembers made the trip. If we do it again I will post it for those
closeby.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Where did u see a TS engineering TP being made?!?! did u goto there
facility? I am curious as to what kinda of machines they are using,
let us know!!

Sean


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William A Williams
<bwmsbldr@j...> wrote:

Try them and tell us? ;<( Actually there is a

similiar/identical tool

post offered by Harbor Freight that has not gotten good reviews. I

can

only reccomend the T/S Engineering Q/C tool post as I have actually
handled it and even seen it made!

Bill in Boulder "Buy the Best and Cry Once!"

I bought the Harbor Freight lathe and the advertised quick change
toolpost some months ago. The only way I've been able to use any
tool bigger than 1/4 inch is with the quick change unit, and only
then by lowering the tool holder well below the level of the cross
slide. It works, but it's not pretty.

After spending about 10 hours tightening every gib in sight,
polishing the ways, and other miscellaneous fixups, I am now
trying to replace the spindle bearings in hopes of getting
less play and flexing. The Harbor Freight model had straight
roller bearings, so I'm replacing them with angled bearings
to take thrust loads.

The stock bearings had about .8 mil static runout.
The dynamic runout was bad (> 5 mil, AFAIK) at speed.
We'll see if this improves it.

I bought that same tool holder from Wholesale Tools two months
ago. It came in three days and it's an excellent toolpost. I emailed
them and asked if they sold boring bar and cutoff tool holders that
would fit this model or even if it was possible to buy spare regular
tool holders. So far no answer. Homier sells the same QC toolpost for
$34.00 and includes a 6 piece carbide tool set but I didn't learn
about this until after I had already bought mine from Wholesale Tools.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

I got a flyer from Wholesale Tools and they had a quick

change

tool post for the 7 inch lathe for $39.00 part number 3003-0026.
Has anyone dealt with them before?

Jerry

What torque stepper motors are recommended for converting a 7X12 to
CNC.
Dan

Try them and tell us? ;<( Actually there is a similiar/identical tool
post offered by Harbor Freight that has not gotten good reviews. I can
only reccomend the T/S Engineering Q/C tool post as I have actually
handled it and even seen it made!

Bill in Boulder "Buy the Best and Cry Once!"

I have dealt with Wholesale tools, they are OK, or was when I dealt with
them

Clint

I got a flyer from Wholesale Tools and they had a quick change
tool post for the 7 inch lathe for $39.00 part number 3003-0026.
Has anyone dealt with them before?

Jerry

Dear Cranky!
Having said that I could find the clutch article I went to do so and of
course could not! I can only assume that it is either somewhere else
other than in my collection or I just overlooked it. Anyway if you are
familiar with how the older Brit bike clutches were laid out this should
be no problem to design. Tet me know if you would like help in crunching
the numbers.
But there was another article in HSM that had an even neater drive based
on adapting an automotive A/C clutch as the working element. It even
included a brake. Of course you needed a 12VDC supply to operate it but
that cannot be a challenge for someone that can make a Lucas Disappearing
Spark Ignition System function!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- William A Williams <bwmsbldr@...> wrote:

Well since you are probably propped up in bed now full of muscle
relaxants and pain killers this is the perfect time to redesign the
drive. There was a very neat clutch rework for the Myford published in
the mid 70's ME ('76?) that looked a lot like a traditional Brit
motorcycle single plate clutch with cork faces glued on and a pushrod
for
disengagment through the countershaft pushing on a single bearing ball.
If you are interested I will see if I can find the exact date of
publication.

Yes, I am very interested. My main ride is a 74 Norton Commando with a
very effective diaphragm cluth. That would really be a neat drive system!

Cranky Frankie

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Frankie, take lots of pictures as you disassemble things. Good for
memories, reassembly, and for that article you might write!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

So you've got a neat old lathe and the world's only practical use
for a golf ball - what's the problem?
Sorry to hear about the back; just reading about it gave me memory
pains :-(

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Palmeri <flpalmeri@y...>
wrote:

--- William A Williams <bwmsbldr@j...> wrote:

Sorry to hear about your back problems. I feel your pain; or

rather my

pain feels a lot like yours! That is an interestion treadle

assembly in

the picture. It is uncommon to see two treadles. I would hope

that the

motorised conversion was done well enough to keep; I have seen a

lot of

very poorly done motorisation conversions.

You'd love this: there is a GOLF BALL that is used to pivot the

driving

pulley into and out of the belt tension. Yeesh. But it seems to

work; I

mean, I turned it on and it ran and all, but I'm already imagining

how to

make it a little slicker.

Cranky Frankie

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Well since you are probably propped up in bed now full of muscle
relaxants and pain killers this is the perfect time to redesign the
drive. There was a very neat clutch rework for the Myford published in
the mid 70's ME ('76?) that looked a lot like a traditional Brit
motorcycle single plate clutch with cork faces glued on and a pushrod for
disengagment through the countershaft pushing on a single bearing ball.
If you are interested I will see if I can find the exact date of
publication.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- William A Williams <bwmsbldr@...> wrote:

Sorry to hear about your back problems. I feel your pain; or rather my
pain feels a lot like yours! That is an interestion treadle assembly in
the picture. It is uncommon to see two treadles. I would hope that the
motorised conversion was done well enough to keep; I have seen a lot of
very poorly done motorisation conversions.

You'd love this: there is a GOLF BALL that is used to pivot the driving
pulley into and out of the belt tension. Yeesh. But it seems to work; I
mean, I turned it on and it ran and all, but I'm already imagining how to
make it a little slicker.

Cranky Frankie

__________________________________
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software

Sorry to hear about your back problems. I feel your pain; or rather my
pain feels a lot like yours! That is an interestion treadle assembly in
the picture. It is uncommon to see two treadles. I would hope that the
motorised conversion was done well enough to keep; I have seen a lot of
very poorly done motorisation conversions.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Last night riding buddy Ben and father-in-law Bill and myself
dissassembled and moved the Seneca Falls Mfg. Co. lathe I just purchased.
First we removed the added-on motor drive assembly. Then we unbolted the
stand from the cement basement floor. Finally we unbolted the lathe itself
from the stand. It's big and very heavy, probabaly a 12" X 24" at least,
but Ben and I were able to carry it up the stairs to my trailer.
Everything was going fine until I attempted to lift a large wooden box
filled with metal cut-offs. I bent down and got it off the floor with my
legs like you're supposed to, but then, snap, I felt my L5 disc pop again.
I injured this disc doing barbell squats many years ago, and it hasn't
popped like this since I last attempted a very heavy deadlift. After that,
with a sharp knife-like feeling in my back, I had to take it easy, for
sure.

We finally got everything on the trailer, jamming it full with boxes and
boxes of tools and parts, but when I got home I simply backed the trailer
into the garage and left it, it's sagging springs crying out for relief
but the searing pain in my back crying out louder.

Turns out the lathe has an interesting history. The last patent date
stamped on the frame is 1896, and there's a long axle across it that I'm
sure at one time held a large flywheel and two treadle pedals. The lathe
came from the Watervliet Arsenal in upstate NY. If you're a military
history buff you know this is where the huge 16" cannons for our big
battleships are made. These guns are so big that when they fire their
2,000 pound charge, the entire hundreds of tons weighing battleship moves
over about a foot. Based on the age of this lathe, I'm certain it made
some parts for our military munitions efforts in WWI and possibly as late
as WWII. Amazing.

With 7 motorcycles and 1 sidecar I'm hoping to learn enough basic
machining skills to perhaps make a part or two now and then, and do some
polishing, facing, etc. The History Channel had a special on machine tools
the other night, but I missed the lathe part, since the lathe is the king
of machine tools and it was on first.

If your thinking of getting into metalworking, it may be wise to consider
the popular 7" X 12" imported mini-lathes that are available from many
vendors. For one thing, lots of lathe work takes place right by the
headstock anyway, so you might not really need a big lathe like the one I
got. Second, the small ones only weigh about 90lbs complete, so you wont
have to break your back moving them.

No pictures yet, as my daugther has my digital camera at summer camp. But
here's some interesting info on Seneca Falls Mfg. Co. If you go to the
very bottom of this page, look at the drawing on the bottom right. That's
what my lathe looks like, except the flywheel and treadles have been
removed.



Bill and Ben, thanks for the backbreaking help, I know it wasn't easy.

Cranky Frankie
"The pain passes, but the beauty remains." Pierre Auguste Renoir



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you might also take a look at the homier mini-lathe for $299.99.

The Micromark is nice in that the crossslide and compound have 20tpi
screws giving it a true .050 per revolution of the handles.

It also has the tach and cam operated tailstock as std equipment.

but worth the $500.00+ pricetag .. I dunno

These features can be retrofit from

also .. check the 7x10 group .. lots of information there as well

Just my own views .. no doubt the micromark is a nice machine :)

Rgds

Will

i recently acquired both the mill and lathe from micromark. i settled
on the micromark machines after much research. for the lathe it came
down to the longer bed, inch units, spindle tach, motor mount, and
lever lock tail stock.

i have to say i am impressed. after getting all the gibs conditioned
and adjusted, and a good sharp tool ground, this lil' machine does a
great job. i cut some CR first to check tailstock alignment - it cut
just fine and the diameter difference was less than .002" - not bad
out of the box. the next thing i cut was drill rod to make clamping
blocks for the mill. i was wackin .040" per pass with no chatter and
a great surface finish. having the variable speed control is super
nice - i was able to adjust the spindle speed on the fly to get
optimal chip formation - curly and toasty brown (close the limit of
my HSS tool bit). i find plenty of torque above 100 rpm (still a bit
fast for some operations though). working tolerance for both machines
so far is less than .001" - no wonder people like them so much.

my first mods planned are variable speed leadscrew (using an old
power drill) and real saddle gibs.

and a blurb about the mill (i know there is a mini-mill group but
most of the postings there are spam)...i put the R8 conversion kit in
from LMS - the "make your own tools" (see LMS) trick didn't pan out -
i had to use a car jack between 2 concrete block walls as a makeshift
press - it worked fine. on to tramming the head - the x axis
alignment was easy but the y axis was out but .006". i tried to taper
the gib but gave up since the only method i had was sand paper. i
settled on shimming the base mounting bracket - i used 3 layers
of .001" thick aluminum foil. so far so good, but i'll have to check
it periodically for compression.

no regrets.

m

Here's some info you may find helpful:



Frank Hoose


--- Christian <christian02115@...> wrote:

Hey guys,

Newbie machinist here, reading some good books. I'm
looking to make
my own rc helicopter parts and have done some
looking around and have
pretty much settled on the Microlux 7x14 lathe. What
are the opinions
here of it? I need something I can lift and move
around. I'm also
interested in getting the mill attachment, and may
buy the Micromark
tabletop mill as well, any thoughts on that? Thanks!

Christian
www.christianzx.com



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I have quite a few brand new Rohm drill chucks available at roughly 50%
off list price:

Keyless chucks:
0-6MM J1 020089 @ $25
0-8MM J1 020093 @ $25
0-10MM J2 020097 @ $32

Ball bearing chucks:
1/32-1/2 J3 215000 @ $45 - last one!
3/16-3/4 J4 215002 @ $70
3/16-1 1/32 J5 215003 @ $105

Standard Key-type chucks:
1/64-5/32 J0 666562 @ $14
1/64-1/4 J1 666537 @ $14
1/32-3/8 J1 666539 @ $15
1/32-3/8 J2 666567 @ $16
1/32-3/8 J33 666568 @ $16
1/16-1/2 J2 666571 @ $18 - last one!
1/16-1/2 J6 666573 @ $18

I have arbors in straight shank in 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1" for almost all
chucks. And MT1, 2, 3, 4 for most. (No, I do not have any MT1 or MT2
arbors for the 1" & 3/4" ball bearing chucks - this seems to be a very
popular question)

--C.S.