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Good Morning Bob:
Here is what I have so far: Stock is 3/4" 12L14, HSS 3/8" cutting tool - sharpened & honed, 3 jaw on hs and live center in ts. With stock either chucked or supported by ts, I have indicated top and rear of stock and corrected alignment using shims between the bed and bench. Bolts are snug, but not tight to permit adjustment if required. Whether the stock is held with just the 3 jaw, or supported with the ts, the lathe still cuts a taper towards the hs in the neighborhood of .02". I am using a Starret square base to level the unit fore/aft and side to side. All readings using the level are dead center, with no parallax error (all readings taken from top dead looking down at the vial). Should I invest in a more precise level to ensure these reading are true? I have checked for alignment at the hs, center of the bed and ts areas. While it has been several years since I have used a lathe, am I overlooking something minor here? All carriage and compound gibs are properly adjusted and lubricated. While cutting, I have used several fluids with the same results: WD40, 10W oil with STP, and even kerosene. Are these lathes that far out of alignment from the factory, or is this due to shipping/handling? There was no damage to the carton or the lathe when received, and I wonder if this unit should be returned for a new one. While I am not opposed to making corrections/adjustments to get acceptable results, this has been quite perplexing, to say the least. Best regards, Nick
Bob Sunley <rosunley@...> wrote:Check list time:

What are you cutting, type of metal/plastic, diameter and length.

How is it chucked, 3 jaw, 4jaw, between centers or combination.

Type of cutter, hss, carbide, a u-grind or factory insert.

Speed setting, power or manual feed.

Chattering and cutting tapers are two totally different problems.
Which do you want to fix first.

Cutting tapers can indicate a warped bed or tailstock not set
properly depending on how you are holding the workpiece.
which way is the taper?


Chattering can be any number of problems, wrong/no cutting lube,
wrong feed rate, tool height set wrong, wrong type of tool, too fine a
cut, too agressive a cut, assorted gibs not adjusted properly, etc.
etc, etc.

Solidly mounting the lathe can cause tapered cuts as well if it warps
the lathe bed

Need lots more info on exactly what you are doing.

Bob


On 9 Dec 2002, at 21:23, ntdefeo ntdefeo@... wrote:

After setting and checking my Homier 7X12 lathe 9 ways to sunday, I
am still turning tapers! As carriage is advancing towards the hs
assembly, the hs cutting tool starts to chatter, no matter what
adjustments are made. Is it possible that the bed it bowed/warped in
such a manner that this machine should just be returned for a new
unit? I have never run up against such a perplexing problem. All
adjustments have been checked and rechecked for accuracy. Unit is
solidly mounted on a bench. Has anyone else run across this problem?
Any comments? suggestions? short of heaving it into the trash?


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Ken,
The belt always going to the same side sounds like the motor shaft is
not exactly parallel to the countershaft. On the 7x10 group, J.W.
Early posted a hinged motor mount mod. that makes alignment easier.
IIRC, it was within the last month or so.

Roy
(A USN type who was simultaneously "Special Sea & Anchor Detail OOD"
and Engineer on a DDG. The book said I had to be 2 different places
at once; the CO liked my "vectory at sea" shiphandling & believed my
snipes were as competent as I claimed!)
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt. Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing me

to it!

My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its

done a half

turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there, whether

you

reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when I

get some

spares to try.
Regards,
Ken
[A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o) ER

Chiefs

could never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines -

A very

strange animal indeed!]
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
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From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 05:30:43 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*

Check list time:

What are you cutting, type of metal/plastic, diameter and length.

How is it chucked, 3 jaw, 4jaw, between centers or combination.

Type of cutter, hss, carbide, a u-grind or factory insert.

Speed setting, power or manual feed.

Chattering and cutting tapers are two totally different problems.
Which do you want to fix first.

Cutting tapers can indicate a warped bed or tailstock not set
properly depending on how you are holding the workpiece.
which way is the taper?


Chattering can be any number of problems, wrong/no cutting lube,
wrong feed rate, tool height set wrong, wrong type of tool, too fine a
cut, too agressive a cut, assorted gibs not adjusted properly, etc.
etc, etc.

Solidly mounting the lathe can cause tapered cuts as well if it warps
the lathe bed

Need lots more info on exactly what you are doing.

Bob

After setting and checking my Homier 7X12 lathe 9 ways to sunday, I
am still turning tapers! As carriage is advancing towards the hs
assembly, the hs cutting tool starts to chatter, no matter what
adjustments are made. Is it possible that the bed it bowed/warped in
such a manner that this machine should just be returned for a new
unit? I have never run up against such a perplexing problem. All
adjustments have been checked and rechecked for accuracy. Unit is
solidly mounted on a bench. Has anyone else run across this problem?
Any comments? suggestions? short of heaving it into the trash?

Hi Roy,
That certainly is a comprehensive web site. Thanks for pointing me to it!

My belt doesn't 'walk' really . I centre it and by the time its done a half
turn, it is already at the side, it then just stays there, whether you
reverse or not. It will be interesting to see what happens when I get some
spares to try.
Regards,
Ken
[A Navy 'Fresh Air' type, - away from the engine room fumes(;o) ER Chiefs
could never understand me - a deck type who built racing engines - A very
strange animal indeed!]
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
触&濒迟;触):辞)=触&驳迟;抖抖触..触.................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;

From: "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 05:30:43 -0000

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*

Here's everything you ever want to know about timing belts, and
tons more trivia, besides:

Basically, if the belt is centered on the pulleys, everything is
fine. If the belt "walks" from one side to the other when you change
from forward to reverse, the alignment is probably OK, but the
twists/tensions of the reinforcing cords in the belt are not properly
balanced. Of course, the vendor that claims that sells "premium"
belts. Beware of idlers - if they ride on the outside of the belt,
they shorten its life.

Roy
(Retired Navy engineering type trying to keep the words short enough
for fresh air types.)

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby
<captkenn@m...>" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi Jerry,
Thanks for your response. I haven't had much dealings with belt
drives, now I have two, lathe and band saw, so I am being ultra
cautious I suppose. There is no noise and the belt has run quite
heavily, pretty well every day for the last six months. It shows no
wear on the 'teeth' of the belt, although I noticed this evening
what 'could be' a little separation of the surface on the back of

it.

I have ordered some new ones but won't get them until the New Year,
so I will try elsewhere, and change it anyway. I will take your
advice and check everything else too.
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Capt Ken,
As to your question one, I would with a lot of belt

driven

things

in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt to

run in an

awkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or a

rough spot

or even out of round. There are so many minor things that can

cause

the

problem.
You may want to inspect everything on this beast, to

make

sure

it's properly working. The normal case is something is just

noisy,

in the

extreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks.

Jerry

Q1.
I have just refitted the power belt as I knew it was running off
centre - out and away from the lathe. I used Frank Hoose Jr's

advice

on setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it

stll

wants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this
adjustment 'should' cure the problem. Do I detect a little idea

that

it could be something else? Something bent?

There is what looks to me like a slight 'flap' in the straight

part

between the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it?
It's not hitting anything - I would just like to see it running

dead

centre.

Hi Jerry,
Thanks for that advice. I have just got one of the sanders you
describe I will look at it tomorrow.

In answer to your question, I'm a sea captain, my last ship was an Ocean tug
of 4,600 tons, about the size of a destroyer! See it here-




Cheers,
captkenn
/ /
/,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,||
触&濒迟;触):辞)=触&驳迟;抖抖触..触.................
&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;

From: Jerry Smith <jfsmith@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Yet More Questions
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 20:04:39 -0500

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ken,
Some of my belt driven machinery, actual has something like an idler wheel on them. It allows some control of the belt. If you have seen some of the table top belt sanders I think they are 4 x 26 on the belt size and have a disc sander on the side. Check the belt control on it. you can get the belt to move side to side and tighten the tension.
That should give you an idea for what you can do for belt control. I have a couple of belt clutches around the shop for future projects, it's and old technology, but it still does work on some machinery
BTW what are a Captain in?

Jerry

Hi Jerry,
Thanks for your response. I haven't had much dealings with belt
drives, now I have two, lathe and band saw, so I am being ultra
cautious I suppose. There is no noise and the belt has run quite
heavily, pretty well every day for the last six months. It shows no
wear on the 'teeth' of the belt, although I noticed this evening
what 'could be' a little separation of the surface on the back of it.
I have ordered some new ones but won't get them until the New Year,
so I will try elsewhere, and change it anyway. I will take your
advice and check everything else too.
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Capt Ken,
As to your question one, I would with a lot of belt driven

things

in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt to

run in an

awkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or a

rough spot

or even out of round. There are so many minor things that can cause

the

problem.
You may want to inspect everything on this beast, to make

sure

it's properly working. The normal case is something is just noisy,

in the

extreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks.

Jerry

Q1.
I have just refitted the power belt as I knew it was running off
centre - out and away from the lathe. I used Frank Hoose Jr's

advice

on setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it stll
wants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this
adjustment 'should' cure the problem. Do I detect a little idea

that

it could be something else? Something bent?

There is what looks to me like a slight 'flap' in the straight part
between the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it?
It's not hitting anything - I would just like to see it running

dead

centre.

Thank you Frank
--- Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:

You may have better luck getting an answer on the
following group:



It covers the same topics but has over 2200 members.

Frank Hoose


--- "elmontduckman <elmontduckman@...>"
<elmontduckman@...> wrote:

Hi, just found this group and I have a problem

maybe

some of you can
help me with. I have an old Atlas lathe that when
the v-belt broke, I
replaced it but now I can't get the headstock back
in properly. Is
there any hints or a place in long island,N.Y.

where

I can get it
fixed.



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now.

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Capt Ken,
As to your question one, I would with a lot of belt driven things in my shop and lateral moves, pitch, etc, etc can cause a belt to run in an awkward way. You may have something not centered, or bent or a rough spot or even out of round. There are so many minor things that can cause the problem.
You may want to inspect everything on this beast, to make sure it's properly working. The normal case is something is just noisy, in the extreme case, the belt wears un evenly and it breaks.

Jerry

Hi,
I have a Clarke CL300M 7x12, which I have been using like the old
16x84 that I previously had and the strain is telling! I have
replaced the line fuse with a proper strong one that is much easier
to change the fuse. It has been running for a little while with a
piece of fuse wire dangling until I got a replacement (fire hazard I
know!).The old fuse broke off inside!

Q1.
I have just refitted the power belt as I knew it was running off
centre - out and away from the lathe. I used Frank Hoose Jr's advice
on setting the motor, but no matter what adjustments I make it stll
wants to run right next to the edge. I notice he says this
adjustment 'should' cure the problem. Do I detect a little idea that
it could be something else? Something bent?

There is what looks to me like a slight 'flap' in the straight part
between the upper and lower gears, but maybe I am looking for it?
It's not hitting anything - I would just like to see it running dead
centre.

Q2.
The new gib strips I have got don't have positioning marks on them.
[I polished the original ones too small] Should I put marks into them
and does it matter which side is the bearing strip? is there a way of
knowing?
All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

If you're new to machining or simply new to the 7x series of mini lathes or
mini mill, check out the following resources:

LittleMachineShop.com
---------------------
LittleMachineShop.com provides us with a "Free Mini Lathe User's Guide". It
is an Adobe PDF document containing 35-pages of what should have been
included with the mini lathe to begin with. If you want to learn more about
your new mini lathe, *read this user's guide*! There is a link to it on the
site's home page.

This site is also the *best* place to get replacement parts and accessories
for you mini lathe and mini mill. The prices are great, customer service is
*excellent*, and they ship very quickly.




mini-lathe.com
---------------------
Frank J. Hoose, Jr. provides us with one of the *best* resources out there
on the 7x series mini lathes, mini mills, and other machines. The site is
intended primarily to help new and prospective owners understand the
capabilities, limitations and frustrations of these tools and how to modify
and fine-tune them to get results one might expect only from a much more
expensive machine. The reviews of the machines and accessories on the site
are comprehensive and very well illustrated.

Also, I'd highly recommend subscribing to the *Premium Content* section.
There you'll find detailed tutorials on Tramming the Mini Mill, Knurling,
Boring, Cutting Threads, etc. as well as some great projects in a easy to
understand and very well illustrated format.

Please read the Safety page for important safety tips.




Varmint Al's Mini Lathe Page
---------------------
Another great source of information is Varmint Al's Mini Lathe Page. Besides
a lot of well written information about the mini lathe, there are some
excellent links to other mini lathe related web sites.




This is by no means a complete list. Doing a search on
using the keywords "mini-lathe" or "7x10" will provide
thousands of links to pages to help you along the way.

Also, I highly recommend the following two books:

"Tabletop Machining" by Joe Martin
"Home Shop Machinist's Handbook" by Doug Briney

Although written for the Sherline machines, they offer a wealth of
information that applies to any lathe or milling machine.

Have fun!
- Brice

You may have better luck getting an answer on the
following group:



It covers the same topics but has over 2200 members.

Frank Hoose


--- "elmontduckman <elmontduckman@...>"
<elmontduckman@...> wrote:

Hi, just found this group and I have a problem maybe
some of you can
help me with. I have an old Atlas lathe that when
the v-belt broke, I
replaced it but now I can't get the headstock back
in properly. Is
there any hints or a place in long island,N.Y. where
I can get it
fixed.



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.

Hi, just found this group and I have a problem maybe some of you can
help me with. I have an old Atlas lathe that when the v-belt broke, I
replaced it but now I can't get the headstock back in properly. Is
there any hints or a place in long island,N.Y. where I can get it
fixed.

Hi All,
Thanks for all the help youi gave me on these two matters - I have
resolved the casting problem by getting replacements. Alum is a bit
hard to find here!

I managed to get good service from Machine Mart to put the lathe
right, although a couple of items I asked for (like drive belts) are
out of stock till next year

But at least I am back in business again (:o)
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "david" <davidalan@l...> wrote:

for spare parts i ring the machine mart parts line, pay by switch

and take

delivery via post. always had good service and plenty of help
DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@l...
l

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "wb2tdg" <WB2TDG@a...> wrote:

I recently bought a 7x12 Homier and so far so good. The question I
have is when I shut the varible speed knob to off and manually turn
the lathe backwards I can feel a restriction. If I turn the

electric

switch to off it goes away. Its like the electronics are holding it
from being turned easily. The main question is will this hurt the
electronics? Its a pain to turn off the speed control and main

switch

just to turn it backwards a turn or so. When it is in reverse the
same thing happens. The restriction is felt only in one direction

not

the direction that forward reverse switch is set. Thank you for any
help Ken

Hi Ken:

Like most DC brush motor controllers you can reduce the speed control
to the point the motor stops turning. But this probably doesn't mean
that you can stop current through the motor by turning the speed
control to off. In this case the motor is still "on" but it just
isn't turning.

I think it would be normal to feel some residual effect and to truly
shut off the motor requires the main switch. Maybe the speed control
should say 0 rpm rather than "off".

my thoughts,
Mike...

just had a look at my chester conquest and it doesnt seem to do that


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@...
www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers
www.smartgroups.com/groups/pre78bmw

I recently bought a 7x12 Homier and so far so good. The question I
have is when I shut the varible speed knob to off and manually turn
the lathe backwards I can feel a restriction. If I turn the electric
switch to off it goes away. Its like the electronics are holding it
from being turned easily. The main question is will this hurt the
electronics? Its a pain to turn off the speed control and main switch
just to turn it backwards a turn or so. When it is in reverse the
same thing happens. The restriction is felt only in one direction not
the direction that forward reverse switch is set. Thank you for any
help Ken

Well right now I cna't get into any more hobbys lol, costs to much on
ym part time job... Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for answering all
my questions on knifemaking!

Sean

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
Make up a few and show people what you can do. That's the

best

sales tool. You can use the stock removal method and only have to

cut metal

away. Then find somebody to heat treat and temper them for you. Add

the

scales of grips and you have a knife. You should look into leather

work, a

good knife is not useful unless you have something to carry it in.

Jerry

At 02:30 AM 11/29/2002 +0000, you wrote:

yes that I heard was also referred to as watered steel, but the
concept is awesome and must take forever~! I bet you charge and

arm

and a leg for thatif you ever make them... Maybe when I am older
and have a good paying job I might get into knife making, there is

a

profit to be made, some old timers these days have money and want a
special knife made for them. Good side hobby for some spare cash,
along with machining if you machine the right stuff!

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...> wrote:

Sean,
Damascus steel, is bars of steel are forged together,

much

folding

of the metal goes on during the process. You must flux with

something that

contains borax, or you can use the stuff at from store (20 Mule

Team Brand,

100% Borax) Some Fluxes are designed for gas forges or coal

forges.

You make a billet out of several layers of steels, when

different

steels are layered, you get a layered effect in the finish

product.

I

sometime add a layer of nickle or copper. Damascus is prized

because of the

patterned product that is created.
It's a lot of heat in the forge, hammering, fluxing,

folding and

repeat the process many times. There are added steps to get

different

patterns.
To do it, isn't that difficult, it's just time

consuming

and right

equipment does get a little pricey, but lesser equipment will

do,

just add

more time because of the equipment.

Hope this gets you excited to do knives and start building your

smithy.

Jerry
At 12:41 AM 11/29/2002 +0000, you wrote:

wow sounds cool, damascus how exactly do you make that, is it

just

a

really high carbon steel? Somewher eI heard of watered steel

or

something along those lines, not sure if it was real or no.
Supposedly really hard and holds an edge.

Sean

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